Hello I’m new to the forum here’s my 1972 Datsun 510 Waggon

[Markimusprime56]

Hello all, as stated I have a 72 wagon with a L16 and the 3n71b it was a one owner car with roughly 93k on the dash and has been parked since 96. The car has been covered around 70% of it’s life and I live in east TN so it’s got some rust but it’s fixable rust thank god. 

 

So here’s the plans; I have owned the car personally for the past 3 years and just now able to work on it. after accumulating parts enough to do the entire cars body in primer and also have the clear also shave and paint the engine bay ALL with really good stuff.  

( I only purchased a quart of nason XL Toyota mandarin orange pearl because I still can’t decide what color to go)

 

ontop of that i accumulated everything to rebuild the motor all the electrical components as far as a new starter bigger alt and harness for it solenoids etc also microswitches for the auto. All the distributors components and coil/ballast resistor. But curious about the whole GM HEI swap but not sure on the dual points which is what I have.

 

Transmission wise I’m very familiar with them I just was in my F250s E4od and beefed it up and have worked in transmission shops.  So the little guy in this thing shouldn’t be a problem and also the previous owner had a very reputable local shop rebuild the trans 500 miles before parked so I’m going to just freshen it up since I won’t be going through a crapped out trans or it’d be 4speed. Cut the converter open and let my friend go through it.

 

I'm trying my best to get uploads up of all the work I’ve done so far to it. What is a good upload site these days I’ve not been on a forum in 14 years.

 

I know I’m missing a lot here but it will come to me when the pictures upload. Have a great 4th everyone and thank you!

Edited July 20, 2022 by Markimusprime56

[]2eDeYe]

Welcome, you should be able to upload pics directly after a few more posts. 🙂

[KELMO]

Welcome to the circus. It has been said that this is a site for assholes, we just happen to own Datsuns. Something to keep in mind.

 If you're an old guy like myself, Imgur seems pretty easy to use. Click on your pic in Imgur, copy the BBC code (I think it says for message boards), and paste into your reply on Ratsun. Don't use Photobucket, we have some uh,er, feelings about that site.

[datzenmike]

The odometer only goes to 99,999 before returning to 00,000 so mileage is questionable. If it truly has 73k on it then the engine won't need rebuilding and neither will the transmission. If it's running why a new starter and coil???? Replacement parts are almost always poorer quality that the original Nissan parts. If you just have to do this DON'T throw the old parts away. Save them.

 

There were two Nissan EI electronic ignition distributors in the later Datsuns. The '78 remote igniter is the one the HEI can be used on but you need the '78 and up coil to work with this. The ballast is then removed as not needed. The other is the '79-'80 matchbox distributor and the HEI is not needed and again the newer '78 and up coil is needed and the ballast removed. For now the points distributor is fine.

 

Get it running and enjoy it.

[Markimusprime56]

5 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The odometer only goes to 99,999 before returning to 00,000 so mileage is questionable. If it truly has 73k on it then the engine won't need rebuilding and neither will the transmission. If it's running why a new starter and coil???? Replacement parts are almost always poorer quality that the original Nissan parts. If you just have to do this DON'T throw the old parts away. Save them.

 

There were two Nissan EI electronic ignition distributors in the later Datsuns. The '78 remote igniter is the one the HEI can be used on but you need the '78 and up coil to work with this. The ballast is then removed as not needed. The other is the '79-'80 matchbox distributor and the HEI is not needed and again the newer '78 and up coil is needed and the ballast removed. For now the points distributor is fine.

 

Get it running and enjoy it.

It’s truly 73k I’ve known the people who owned it since I was a wee boy lol. the bore is std crank is std and the head hasn’t been cut on. I just wanted to reseal it and freshen it up and put a good set of pistons and I have a set of cx racing H beams for her. As far as the transmission goes I’m going to put new seals in it regardless if it was rebuilt or not it’s the person I am. I like things to work the first time I’m a Journeyman Precision Millwright so..

As far as all the electrical components I never throw anything away. Just went with fresh stuff with how cheap the prices are. 

Do you prefer Weber or the hitachi? I bought a brand new Weber but I’m going to keep the hitachi on it the one that came with the car is in flawless condition I had a local company vacuum test it for I know they have no sealing rings and they just wear the bore out overtime.

 I’ll have you all some pics here shortly!

[Markimusprime56]

6 hours ago, KELMO said:

Welcome to the circus. It has been said that this is a site for assholes, we just happen to own Datsuns. Something to keep in mind.

 If you're an old guy like myself, Imgur seems pretty easy to use. Click on your pic in Imgur, copy the BBC code (I think it says for message boards), and paste into your reply on Ratsun. Don't use Photobucket, we have some uh,er, feelings about that site.

Thank you sir I greatly appreciate it!

[Markimusprime56]

oh also another reason for freshening the motor up the original person who owned it left water in it since 96 and I can promise you I’ve pulled everybit of 5-10 lbs of rust out of the freeze plug holes. She’s getting hot tanked as we speak.

[datzenmike]

53 minutes ago, Markimusprime56 said:

It’s truly 73k I’ve known the people who owned it since I was a wee boy lol. the bore is std crank is std and the head hasn’t been cut on. I just wanted to reseal it and freshen it up and put a good set of pistons and I have a set of cx racing H beams for her. As far as the transmission goes I’m going to put new seals in it regardless if it was rebuilt or not it’s the person I am. I like things to work the first time I’m a Journeyman Precision Millwright so..

As far as all the electrical components I never throw anything away. Just went with fresh stuff with how cheap the prices are. 

Do you prefer Weber or the hitachi? I bought a brand new Weber but I’m going to keep the hitachi on it the one that came with the car is in flawless condition I had a local company vacuum test it for I know they have no sealing rings and they just wear the bore out overtime.

 I’ll have you all some pics here shortly!

 

 There's a reason the parts are cheap. They are mostly Chinese crap. If buying parts, get from Japan and pay for them what they are worth.

 

 

[Markimusprime56]

upload picture for free

 

 

 

[Markimusprime56]

Crap I guess this site doesn’t work. Imgur won’t work on my phone for some reason.

[Markimusprime56]

[Markimusprime56]

Bunch of crammed together pictures I apologize. I’m sorry I was wrong the car has 96k.

[datzenmike]

They look good.

 

Those plugs are Autolite? (BOSCH I see now) Replace with NGK like the factory sold the car with, B6ES I believe.

 

That orange oil filter, a fram??? NEVER use a fram filter. NAPA Gold or WIX are still ok. The only thing that filter is good for is masking off the hole when you paint the block.

 

I would avoid oils made today and get something high in ZDDP like all oils were over 30 years ago. Our engines need the extra anti-scuff protection of ZDDP levels above 1000 PPM. Car engines today do not need it and it fouls the new style catalytic converters. Oil makers are reducing the ZDDP levels and are about half what they used to be. Look up this controversy and decide yourself. It's as simple as selecting a different oil off the shelf to protect your engine. There are others, but I run Shell RotellaT4, there's 10w30 and 15w40. Chevron Dello 400 is another.

[Markimusprime56]

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

They look good.

 

Those plugs are Autolite? (BOSCH I see now) Replace with NGK like the factory sold the car with, B6ES I believe.

 

That orange oil filter, a fram??? NEVER use a fram filter. NAPA Gold or WIX are still ok. The only thing that filter is good for is masking off the hole when you paint the block.

 

I would avoid oils made today and get something high in ZDDP like all oils were over 30 years ago. Our engines need the extra anti-scuff protection of ZDDP levels above 1000 PPM. Car engines today do not need it and it fouls the new style catalytic converters. Oil makers are reducing the ZDDP levels and are about half what they used to be. Look up this controversy and decide yourself. It's as simple as selecting a different oil off the shelf to protect your engine. There are others, but I run Shell RotellaT4, there's 10w30 and 15w40. Chevron Dello 400 is another.

Definitely will do. I never run fram it’s what came on it I only run microgard or wix. I got some cheap autolites for its first start then go to NGKs. As far as oil goes I typically don’t run anything but Joe Gibbs, RP or rotella and I always add Zinc addictive. 

Thank you for the replies! I’ve been watching this forum for the past 3 years and finally decided to join now that I’m actually working on it. Specifically you since you help out a lot here. 

Who is a good company when it comes to pistons? I’m wanting to go with a forged flattop or possibly somewhat of a dome. I’d like to have around 10:1. I’ve went with all ARP hardware for it as well top to bottom!

[Markimusprime56]

Also is the bumpers on my car pretty rare I don’t see them often?

my plan for the car is fully restore it and me and my wife finally do a road trip we’ve been planning to do in it since I got it. Start from Maine and end up in Arizona visit all the warship museums and all the little site seeing. None of that slammed on its nuts and goofy assed wide body bs. Original everything.

[thisismatt]

Bumpers are regular with overriders. Not really rare. Desirability...mixed.

[Markimusprime56]

7 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

Bumpers are regular with overriders. Not really rare. Desirability...mixed.

Explains it. Was wondering why I haven’t seen many. They look good when they have the yellow fog lights 😁

[datzenmike]

 

Is that cam tower painted or dirty? Looks like the oil was never ever changed. They should look like the clean ones with oil on them.

 

What's the end use of this engine? Forged are going to rattle like hell every cold startup till they expand from the heat. Ok for racing with turbo or SC as they can absorb punishment but hypereutectic is more than good enough for anything less... and quiet. Stock rods are also good enough for anything under 7k. Better get a new timing chain kit from Japan.

 

Flattop pistons will give you 9.96 compression on a stock head. Hardly worth the price of premium gas for 5-6 hp. A fairly common U67 head from am L20B has larger valves better cam larger ports. The larger Compression would be 8.7 and allow 87 to be used, and with a Weber 32/36 probably more that 6 hp

[datzenmike]

 

Must be optional. Not a fan, does not shout out sporty looking. Just something else to rust and get dented.

 

You want rare? '68 sedan or wagon rear bumper. One year only, has the license illumination light mounted in it.

[Markimusprime56]

3 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Is that cam tower painted or dirty? Looks like the oil was never ever changed. They should look like the clean ones with oil on them.

 

What's the end use of this engine? Forged are going to rattle like hell every cold startup till they expand from the heat. Ok for racing with turbo or SC as they can absorb punishment but hypereutectic is more than good enough for anything less... and quiet. Stock rods are also good enough for anything under 7k. Better get a new timing chain kit from Japan.

 

Flattop pistons will give you 9.96 compression on a stock head. Hardly worth the price of premium gas for 5-6 hp. A fairly common U67 head from am L20B has larger valves better cam larger ports. The larger Compression would be 8.7 and allow 87 to be used, and with a Weber 32/36 probably more that 6 hp

It’s dirty really damn dirty lol.. and I’m like you I know it hasn’t been changed. I was told the motor was freshened up 1-2k before it was parked and it doesn’t have a lot of signs of it being false. Not the original main or rod bearings and the valve seats and guides are new. I’m just guessing that it’s probably the break in oil because I’ve seen this a time or two people not changing it and the break in oil not having a lot of breakdown properties it just burns and glues to every surface.

 

ill just hold onto the rods for another day with that being said if the Hp gain is that minimum. I’m wanting to daily it sometimes and cruise it and travel. Maybe one day turn it to a hotrod but if the gains are that low I’ll stick with what I have for now. 

[Markimusprime56]

6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Must be optional. Not a fan, does not shout out sporty looking. Just something else to rust and get dented.

 

You want rare? '68 sedan or wagon rear bumper. One year only, has the license illumination light mounted in it.

Oh I love it but I’m old lol. Especially with the fog lights they come with 😍

i just looked and couldn’t seem to find one.

[datzenmike]

There's no down side to the rods if they are replacements for the stock L16. If you have them might as well use them. Racing pistons are another thing. The L24 240z car pistons are exactly the same as the L16 but are flattop and have no dish. That's if you can find any. The L24 is just an L16 with 2 extra cylinders.

[Markimusprime56]

6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

There's no down side to the rods if they are replacements for the stock L16. If you have them might as well use them. Racing pistons are another thing. The L24 240z car pistons are exactly the same as the L16 but are flattop and have no dish. That's if you can find any. The L24 is just an L16 with 2 extra cylinders.

Rods are Same as stock  so this will work?

[Markimusprime56]

Where is a reputable company to buy a timing kit from? I plan on replacing everything it’s what I do.

[datzenmike]

Yup.... till you order them and after a few days they'll say NLA.