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620KC on 720 bare frame build


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I've managed to get the rockers remade to the point that I'm satisfied with, and plan is next weekend to move the cab over to the frame and begin fitting up - I know I have to modify the left inner fender to clear the steering box and probably the dizzy, the right inner may also need some work.


I'm getting pretty stoked to get the cab mounted up and begin to do all the shit necessary to finally fire it up. If only I could afford to take time off work to focus on this... c'mon Lotto!

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Cleaned up and reconfigured my garage today (thankfully pretty much everything is on wheels) and getting ready to do the big dance.


When I lifted the cab last time I had found the near perfect balance point, hoping to be so lucky again. Mind you now there is more metal in it, maybe, just maybe the added weight of the dash will be enough... I'll know soon

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Most excellent day today, successful 1st fit-up. Less inner Left fender modifications needed than expected - and none on R side.


Like getting a new present - I wanted to put the seats in and just sit in it. It's already back on the rotisserie and the necessary mods are done. Now to finish those FUgly cowl-end rust throughs and the couple dozen other repairs...


Gotta admit, it was a bit amazing to put the cab on, was SO easy - I knew I'd be close on the balance.

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Jumped ahead a bit and decided to make the hole in the roof even bigger. Hey if you're gonna play, play!

124622053_IMG_7352small.thumb.jpg.db66ced3258487d85a37a24d3478aa92.jpg 2037754976_IMG_7354small.jpg.9ac5ecfbe005e5bd7c8850026b896097.jpg

Let the sun shine in!


I've made my final choice on colors and design, after working with many different colors and schemes wanting to incorporate the bullet into the design, this is what I'm planning. Cab won't be ready for paint for at least a month but it feels good to have this part of the build process set.


Now all I really need is money. Lots and lots of money.

It's time to start selling off the leftover/no longer required parts. Have a complete 620 dash that's not too badly cracked, original fuel tank, and other assorted bits.

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4 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Yeah, too bad paint and body cost so much. Insurance companies ruined that for us.


Can you please explain this for me? I've got some ideas, but not sure. The ideas I have lean more towards blaming the ecologists. Think California and the over doing of things. Don't get me wrong, I'm concerned about the ecology. But the problem has been way way overdone by the people that don't care about how others make a living.



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Insurance companies make it so lucrative for body shops to charge whatever they want. Those body shops can now charge $10K for a basic repaint. Why would they take on difficult custom jobs when they can soak the insurance companies for whatever they want?


Ironically, I think pushing the technology is good, even if it does not work for me. Another way of looking at it is that if CA didn't have such hard to achieve emissions standards, I would be out of a job. (I make most of my living by doing smog legal LS swaps)

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It's a combination of primarily those 2 things. Insurance pays a lot - most shops bread & butter is insurance claims, and not all shops are quite honest with insurance - I took over management of a shop and there was enough bad shit already in the books that the shop lost its primary contract and the shop shut down. Ever get a windshield replaced? You'll pay less out of pocket than if you have glass coverage (here anyway) because the shops charge the insurance companies more PLUS you pay a deductible and you should be aware that insurance WILL claw back whatever they've paid out on your claims.


Cost of materials has increased for sure and IMO some of the new processes aren't as good. Chrome in particular. Old chrome lasted forever but used truly nasty chemicals that were really bad. New chrome gets pitted by stones then rusts. I don't like how new water-based paint levels out - even new factory paint has a bit of orange peel to it. Ever look up close at the pearl finish between body (metal) and bumper (plastic)? Quite obvious on the whites, the bumper needs a different primer and the finish is slightly yellowed. Had to show customers that on their car before any work was done. Based on my experience and just my opinion.

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I knew that many companies charged more for insurance claims, but apparently this has gotten worse in the past few years. My first hand experience with medical issues tells me that it is a big problem with medical bills. My experience, from being the one that created the medical bill, is that many hospitals make a lot of money off the insurance companies. That is why the hospitals can afford to give out discounts for many people. State OSHA companies say "we will only pay only X percentage of the bill", and hospitals will accept that. The body shop companies have apparently rode into the Insurance scheme on the coat tails of the OSHA experience.


Many thanks to both of you who clued me into the current situation. I'm not saying that it is all bad as there are many laws that benefited from the bad practices of the past that came to light.



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I'm having my 620 repainted right now and "my guy" would rather do custom work for car guys than argue with insurance companies. He tell me that just like mechanics and warranty services, auto body has a "book" value for labor and parts and will not pay over that amount. This means (most of the time for him) the use of non-original parts and not a lot of time to install and finish them.

His painter is super excited about painting a vehicle cactus green instead of black/grey/silver and having enough time to do a good job. 

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My painter is a lifetime big body shop guy who works in his day job as a PPG rep. He has now built a shop with a spray booth on his property and can't wait to get more custom work. Some guys (like me) thrive when doing custom work. It's the only way we can feel good about our work.



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While at my local Pick n Pull, I found a decent rear slider unit that followed me home. It came from a Toyota so the rear corners don't match up the 620's rounded opening, but is a good fit otherwise. I think my best solution is to modify the frame corners, not the cab window opening.


That plus the big sunroof should get me lots of sunshine & air flow. I love the sunshine, for me right now the daylight is 16 hours & 39 minutes and adding several minutes every day.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a l20b with a U67 Head. I had  the cam reground but Web Camshafts. In Riverside California. after the cam was ordered they told me my base circle was smaller and that I would need a Lash Pad that was .O10 larger then what stock is. Mine are Dished. They are impossible to find. I was looking and found a .126 I measured my stock lash pads and got .117 Is that Right  the cam is a 391 grind 

                         Int .       ext..

Lash.              .007.      .011

Lift.               0.450.  0.450

Dur.                  260.     .260

Dur@0.050.     238.     .238

Lobe center.    180        111

The lash pads  I found are flat 

But they are .126 I have red that the Dished lash pads were made for higher RPMs so to keep the lash from hopping out. I was also told that the stock were .160 and I was also told they were .120 I really

need your help

Edited by Simons Raceing
Wrong spelling
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This is someones thread about their truck. If you have a question about a cam why not start your own in ENGINE... https://ratsun.net/forum/16-engine/  or GENERAL TECHNICAL... https://ratsun.net/forum/15-general-technical/ You can also start your own topic in 620 if you want...https://ratsun.net/forum/45-620/ Over on the top right is a blue rectangle with Start New Topic, click on it and away you go.


This way all answers are yours.

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Did an initial fit up of the doors to make certain that my rockers and door openings were good before officially moving on, happy to say that careful work has resulted in a pretty acceptable fit and the body lines are good.



Now I can do the sheet metal repairs on the doors, noting the drivers door has the worse rust, along much of the bottom edge.


Murphy's law did raise it's head, as in no task can be totally simple. With the 720 dash in, I discovered a new issue



This explains why on the 720 the handle is located 2" further away from the front of the door. Not a big problem to resolve, just an added one to the list.

Mike, you had put a 720 dash in yours, what did you do?


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New door cards were already planned as the originals were slightly tattered and the 720 panels are a slightly different profile. Like I said, not a problem just an addition to the "To Do" list that wasn't expected - one step forward and one step sideways. The pulls function to maybe 1/2 the required travel. One of those DUH moments for sure!


Going to look at options of doing different door handles/pulls since I have to mess with it anyway, maybe something swapped from something else or might get creative...

What would you consider for a different pull? Something from within the Nissan family or?

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