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FrankRizzo

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FrankRizzo last won the day on July 26 2020

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About FrankRizzo

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Los Angeles (818)
  • Cars
    74 620/KA24DE
  • Interests
    Mostly gay Pr0n. Collector of Daewoo Leganza's
  • Occupation
    Vacuum cleaner headlight inspector

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  1. ^ Yep. Mike is correct again. I used the "90 to zero" range on my speedhut gauge and it works pretty well. .
  2. I just looked at the pics of calipers on RockAuto.com and I'm 100% certain that the V6 calipers are the correct ones. I definitely have two piston as shown on the V6...NOT the single pistons shown for a 4cyl. They bolted right up, but I used BellTech drop spindles. Here ya go...
  3. Im pretty sure it is the V6 brakes, not the 4 cyl. But not 100%. I'll text Jason and see what he says... I just bought the big brake adapters from Bee, so I'm going to run Z32 calipers next. I also swapped my brake booster from the non-factory 7' to the correct 4 inch model, it's a great compromise if you dont like an over assisted pedal.
  4. Cool. Does your knuckles hit the dash when shifting into 1, 3 or 5?
  5. woo-hoo! If you get a boat, you gonna head down to the Redneck Riviera?? .
  6. It certainly is flatter in the turns. The front bar made the largest difference. makes routing driving around town feel less like you are going to tip over. I took it up to Mulholland on Saturday. To be honest, the ancient non rack and pinion steering sucks for sporty driving...add to that the leaf springs and unloaded bed in the rear and the small cab where you sit too close to the steering wheel....makes for a less than confidence inspiring canyon carver. If you really wanted to get super sporty in a 620 methinks you'd need to swap in the IRS from a 240SX like Porty's
  7. Rear sway bar is in. Bolts to the frame: ALSO: Replaced the Idler Arm with a NOS Nissan piece. They sent it out to drill the tapers. It took MUCH slop out of the steering wheel FWIW.. .
  8. Sometime in the truck's history during a respray they painted over the door catches. It really bugged me, so I found some repops on Ebay and swapped them out:
  9. Here is a '79 NON king cab in Grants Pass if you have not seen it already... https://medford.craigslist.org/cto/d/grants-pass-1979-datun-pick-up/7261963263.html
  10. I got a brand new 15/16" master from Arizona Z car: http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html. Thats where I got mine... Dont forget a propositioning valve. The correct booster is smaller in diameter and looks much better IMHO and is hard to find, the one you get on RockAuto is the larger one that almost hits the clutch master, but it works. Hey Demo - I'd love to see how you eliminated your booster. Did you tap the firewall? I'd love to get rid of mine, but thought it needed some kind of adapter?
  11. I'm going to take the truck in to get the idler arm replaced (I found a NOS one on eBay). I'm going to take it to the place that did the coilover work. I figured it would be easier to have them do it because he has a lift (and im getting too old). But - it has a full bag of hardware and clamps and given how well the front one fit, im hoping this just bolts/clamps in because it is made for the truck. Im pretty sure the bedliner is rattle can spray in. It was on the truck when I got it, but I have touched it up with an off the shelf can from Pep Boys. .
  12. Got the Orange Line rear sway bar when FutoFab had a 15% off black Friday sale. Got around to changing the old tailgate chains with some new stainless links and clear heat shrink:
  13. Looks like it is the home town of Buck Owens.... .
  14. Got the front OEM ROW turns in today: Gratuitous butt shot with the new tails: Happy New Year! .
  15. Kinda...not sure what you mean by "combo switch wiring" though... My lights are OEM ROW (rest of the world) taillights, so they were already set up for separate brake, tail and turn. The USA variants have a weird signal that once you press the brake all the lights light up (see my Mike quote above) so in order to get it to work correctly I had to run a new feed from brake light switch under the dash out and under the truck (following the factory wire harness) all the way to the brake lights. I had already tapped into it for the safety for my push button start switch.
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