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620KC on 720 bare frame build


EDM620

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I've had many a dash covered in upholstery material. The material won't hide cracks underneath, so make sure it s nice and smooth before you have it covered.

 

Mexico? That's a great idea if you live in SoCal. But any local upholstery shop should be able to cover the small Datsun dash for a couple hundred bucks.

 

Here are some pics of a dash for an FJ62 I built last year. I made a few mods to the dash itself and then we had the entire upper and lower portions of the dash covered in the same material used in Teslas and Lamborghinis. It was a ton of work, but still only cost $600 to have covered.

 

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On 2/8/2022 at 10:45 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I've had many a dash covered in upholstery material. The material won't hide cracks underneath, so make sure it s nice and smooth before you have it covered.

 

In my (limited) experience, if you can afford a thin layer of foam (or even fleece) under the upholstery material it hides the cracks a little better. 

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On 2/7/2022 at 5:58 PM, EDM620 said:

I'm giving more thought to having someone recover the pad with naugahyde (how many nauga's will have to be sacrified for thier hides?), the Mrs suggested a trip to Mexico and have it done in leather, but I just got back from there so no more trips for a while. I'll check with a local shop and get a quote - I'm sure to choke on the number they throw at me. I had not intended to spend so much on just a dash... the cheap bastard that I am.

 

What about flocking? Assuming you can get it smooth enough of course...

 

I am about to experiment with using a stretchy suede to see how it goes, too...

Edited by datsunfreak
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I've thought about foocking (lol) and wonder what the durability will be. I suspect the flocking to wear off in contact areas like where I brace my hand to grab my phone or whatever. Adding a thin layer of foam (fleece, huh, now there's a thought) IMO will not only smooth out the surface but protect against further cracking the old brittle dash skin underneath. Whatever I do to cover the dash, I will most likely do for the door cards as well. My wife doesn't sew, so my door cards will probably be rather plain.

 

Stretchy suede - sounds interesting...

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On 2/11/2022 at 11:53 AM, EDM620 said:

I've thought about foocking (lol) and wonder what the durability will be. I suspect the flocking to wear off in contact areas like where I brace my hand to grab my phone or whatever.

 

Yeah, I think if you will ever touch it with bare hands, don't do it. 😁

 

On mine, I think I can get away with not touching it, but it will be tough to make it look smooth without a lot of body filler beforehand...

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On 2/7/2022 at 4:58 PM, EDM620 said:

I'll check with a local shop and get a quote - I'm sure to choke on the number they throw at me

And here's me choking! 2 estimates, "cheaper" one was about $800 USD, the other was about $1200 USD - and that's only estimated not quoted.

Just might re-think sending the wife to Mexico... I know someone who had thier Nissan Murano dash recovered there, gonna find out the cost. Shipping would kill me, thus probably cheaper to send the wife!

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  • 1 month later...

Been busy but still poking away at the dash repair/rebuild. Another method seems to be working good, once I finish that I'll post up more pics.

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Also finalizing my gauge layout now that I have my new steering wheel so I won't be blocking off important areas of the gauges.

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After I took the pic I realized the column cover is tilted slightly, so I need to clock the column a bit to correct that. No idea why the pic is sideways, it's not that way on my computer.

 

With spring around the corner and daily temps finally getting above freezing I have some added motivation to get back on this PITA part of the build. I'm close to getting all the wiring in place and connected up.

 

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Hey EDM620.  GREAT BUILD YOUVE GOT GOING ON. Damn sorry didn't mean to shout haha.

I'm embarking on a similar adventure with my 620 ute. I do have a question as your the only person that I've found to document the 720 chassis swap.

Ive got a 75 620 single cab and can get my hands on an 85 2wd 720 single cab. During your research did you find if this would work. I've found bugger all saying what will and won't again besides what you have written. Here is a picture of my ute at the moment.  This is how I brought it hence the complete rolling chassis swap

 

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Hi Sinful, yes indeed the 620 fits onto the 720 frame with only 2 small differences - an easy swap going from same cab & box sizes. The forward radiator support on the 720 has 2 pairs of mounting holes, so 1 pair will be unused. The other difference is at the tail end where the 720 frame rails are slightly longer due to the 720 having bumper mounts that weren't there on the 620. I had to drill a new pair of mounting holes for the rearmost box mounts (about 5cm forward as I recall) and nip off the very end of the frame rails. If you plan on mounting a rear bumper you may want to investigate that.

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By swapping over to the 720 frame, you benefit by upgrading the front steering (no more king-pin) and front disc brakes, and a larger engine/transmission with possible EFI (depending on what you get). One other change of note is the L series engine has intake & exhaust on same side, the Z or KA series engine is cross-flow. You might need to slightly increase the firewall - engine clearance with a bit of hammer shaping.

 

Not documented but I believe (95%) that the D21 frame is essentially the same frame as the 720 - so you could look at that if you haven't already committed to the 720. You would be default gain some other upgrades/improvements including the availability of going V6 right out of the gate.

 

From your pic it looks like your 620 shell is pretty good. Body parts are damn near impossible to find, at least most mechanical parts are still available.

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On 3/21/2022 at 4:42 AM, EDM620 said:

Hi Sinful, yes indeed the 620 fits onto the 720 frame with only 2 small differences - an easy swap going from same cab & box sizes. The forward radiator support on the 720 has 2 pairs of mounting holes, so 1 pair will be unused. The other difference is at the tail end where the 720 frame rails are slightly longer due to the 720 having bumper mounts that weren't there on the 620. I had to drill a new pair of mounting holes for the rearmost box mounts (about 5cm forward as I recall) and nip off the very end of the frame rails. If you plan on mounting a rear bumper you may want to investigate that.

IMG_4174.thumb.JPG.1867381537ae008a1f790abacaa65624.JPG

By swapping over to the 720 frame, you benefit by upgrading the front steering (no more king-pin) and front disc brakes, and a larger engine/transmission with possible EFI (depending on what you get). One other change of note is the L series engine has intake & exhaust on same side, the Z or KA series engine is cross-flow. You might need to slightly increase the firewall - engine clearance with a bit of hammer shaping.

 

Not documented but I believe (95%) that the D21 frame is essentially the same frame as the 720 - so you could look at that if you haven't already committed to the 720. You would be default gain some other upgrades/improvements including the availability of going V6 right out of the gate.

 

From your pic it looks like your 620 shell is pretty good. Body parts are damn near impossible to find, at least most mechanical parts are still available.

 That's great info. Thanks very much. Yes this body is in very good condition. It had a full body job done about 6 years ago by someone..Ive got another 620 sitting here that I had planned on swapping everything from but decided it was to good of a ute to strip completely. Thanks for your advice. I'll keep an eye out for further progress on yours

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have been very busy with work lately plus helping daughter out with house renos = little time for my project. Still got my hands full dealing with the dash cover + gauges + electrical stuff, thinking I'll kind of have all that wrapped up together, soon 🤞

 

Almost a summer kinda day today but the coming week is right back in the toilet, might be getting snow again as soon as tonight.F**k I want this winter to go away and stay the hell away.

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Pulled the console out of the bin and cleaned it up, in preparation for getting all of that jigsaw sorted out. It had some paint splashed onto it from who knows how long ago, but it cleaned up pretty good.

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There is a divot that I'll need to fill plus a few small cracks, the biggest thing to deal with first is the shifter is now located about 4 1/2" forward, requiring some mods to the layout. Yup, every damn thing needs to be altered in order to make this come together right.

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On that note, the 620 heater fan switch was that pull out knob giving 2 speeds. I've upgraded the fan assembly to provide 4 speeds, as a result the original switch just won't do so I've been mulling over how to deal with that. After scouring a local wreckers and looking at probably every brand heater control assembly I learned that all cars now use some kind of combination assembly that has the fan speeds/flow control/defrost/etc. all into one component. WTF. I pulled out a Ford unit and hacked off the fan switch thinking I might be able to somehow scavenge out the switch, plus sourced an aftermarket 4 position switch.

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Like Benny Hill used to say, "Always Learning". Comparing the actual switch contacts between the 2 devices, the aftermarket does not actually have 4 separate contact positions plus the Ford one is internally connected differently. Then it dawned on me that all current HVAC systems use a separated OFF control, so by default the fan is always on low speed and you really just kick in the higher fan speeds. AH HA! Solution to that issue is to make mine work the same way - a switch to power up the system plus a speed selector to switch to speeds 2-3-4. Of course now I have to mount that up somewhere...

 

The original 620 heater sliders will still function as intended and probably where they originally were, except the fan controls which I think I can mount into the console.

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More to ponder and figure out.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Had some free time lately, got back at things. Main dash panel fitted for the gauges and idiot lights, now trimmed up for placement. 

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Also made up a backing plate for the pending console heater controls, so the switches will be solidly mounted.

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Should get more done over mother's day - she'd want me to do this...

LOL

 

.

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8 minutes ago, RyanC said:

seatbelt light?

Thanks for the comment. Yes you do see a seatbelt light, both the 620 (top of dash) and 720 (instrument cluster) were wired for a seatbelt light and as I wanted to have symmetry in the layout I chose to add in the seatbelt light.

 

By the end of this weekend I hope to have that task completed...

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Well I didn't quite manage enough time to get the dash gauge panel completed, and I have a little bit of interference to deal with but it's coming together nicely IMO.

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Soon as that task is completed I can get back to the crack filling and surface finish.

 

Has anyone done a hidden stereo system? There is the Memphis brand, don't know of any others. Thinking that really just need the ability to use Bluetooth so unit could be hidden anywhere.

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30 minutes ago, EDM620 said:

 

Has anyone done a hidden stereo system? There is the Memphis brand, don't know of any others. Thinking that really just need the ability to use Bluetooth so unit could be hidden anywhere.

 

Yep. My current set up is pretty stealth. I'm upgrading with the dash out to an underseat type dedicated sub behind the passenger seat and separate a 2CH Class D amp for the front 2 way components placed under the seat.

 

My Custom Autosound Head unit with VW knobs looks like an AM radio with the correct stickers but it has bluetooth with phone and streaming....

 there are a lot of options.

 

Im the weird Audiophile though...Ive had people say "that sound was coming out of this???"...

 

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Had a productive day with the gauge wiring, still not complete but gets me able to start the next area - or finishing the dash pad while I wait for some hardware.

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Yup, outta finish the dash pad and wrap this part up

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Yep looking very nice, so seat belt light wiriging and light will have to look again on mine, but hard when not running yet.

 

I'm going to go with the retro sound I think its call so it looks old school but runs bluetooth.

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On 5/10/2022 at 9:19 PM, EDM620 said:

Has anyone done a hidden stereo system? There is the Memphis brand, don't know of any others. Thinking that really just need the ability to use Bluetooth so unit could be hidden anywhere.

 

FYI, there are bluetooth amplifiers that do not require a head unit at all. You can control everything from your phone. 

 

Also there are just bluetooth receivers that plug into the amp for same purpose. 👍

 

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On 5/15/2022 at 4:05 AM, RyanC said:

seat belt light

This was the original seatbelt light on my 620, on top of the dash just forward of the pad

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Might not have been the same for all markets

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