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1983.5 4x4 - retirement truck


Madkaw

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Well looks like my exhaust manifold fix is a bust. I guess welding those bungs warped it enough to not fit now. I guess the heat pulled the runners closer to each other and now all the bolt holes are slightly off . It still seems to sit flat just the bolts all ride the inside of the manifold holes .The very rear bolt I can’t get started. Not much material to elongate manifold hole . Ugh

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CV axles !

I have some torn boots , but since I’ve never driven the truck I don’t know if their good or bad . Plenty of grease in there .

I guess my question is whether the replacements offered are any good or should I try and reboot these Nissan axles - ASSuming these are the OEM axles?

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I have replacement ones from Napa and they are working fine, depends on how bad they are.

That’s the issue - not sure if I can tell how bad they are with visual inspection . I guess I need to price them out. 20-25$ for boots per side . Get a complete axle for 60$?

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I paid over $100 from Napa! Make sure you get the proper spline count, take off the locking hub and bring it with you to stick over the axle at the store first. I bought D21 axles shafts the first time.

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Yeah, the d21 is a mostly completely different truck. Ebay currently has a lot of D21 stuff that says fits 720. Another thought is what else to replace while having it torn apart.

 

Replacing CV axles is quite challenging the first time. I replaced the ball joints, all seals and bearings in the front hubs. I figured if I had it apart I should replace all the wear parts. The carrier bearings that the cv axle rides on thru the hub where the hardest to find. I got mine from my local Nissan dealer.

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Yeah, the d21 is a mostly completely different truck. Ebay currently has a lot of D21 stuff that says fits 720. Another thought is what else to replace while having it torn apart.

 

Replacing CV axles is quite challenging the first time. I replaced the ball joints, all seals and bearings in the front hubs. I figured if I had it apart I should replace all the wear parts. The carrier bearings that the cv axle rides on thru the hub where the hardest to find. I got mine from my local Nissan dealer.

 

Is there a different between 720 years? My 82 is smaller then mine 85 CV.  

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Locally here is Indy Rack and axle and that’s all they do. They quoted me 90$ per axle rebuild . They don’t show any available for exchange , so mine are it. I’d almost rather have the OEMS redone .

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So my Chinese carb failed before I ever got the engine started. Priming caused fuel to pour out the front of the carb where the float is- and I mean poured ;(

I looked for a hole it was so bad. I guess the O ring for the cover is not thick enough or something. I guess I go cheap I get cheap .

Really wanted to hear it run , but it wasn’t meant to be.

 

Also a let down was the exhaust down pipe I got from Bosal. The flange holes at the manifold were a 1/8” off at least. I knew the 2WD pipe wouldn’t clear, but I thought I would at least get a good collector for the manifold- ugh. So after fixing a part that was supposed to fit I proceeded to fix the pipe that I knew wouldn’t fit. I ordered a walker muffler so I can finish welding the exhaust system.

This is going painfully slow . I should have known .

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Well the good news is I bitched enough to the carb seller that they refunded my money. Didn’t even ask to ship the carb back . Ordered the Weber . If I decide to keep this truck forever I will be going programmable EFI

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Well the seller wasn’t kidding about the clutch being shot - it’s gone

 

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Of course the trans is bad too, so All gets replaced. Found a trans in Ohio I need to get this week along with an extra Napz motor.

 

The old trans came out the hard way and yes it’s a bitch. If I wasn’t redoing the whole front end I might have considered a different route. But since I was removing the diff and axles I was almost there already. I did remove the engine with a engine hoist though.

I got away with that by lowering the truck to the ground, almost on its frame to get enough room to swing motor over the fender. I think I can install motor AND trans in this fashion when ready to reassemble .

 

 

So a couple of questions . I searched and looks like welding a new washer on tension rod box is best fix for it? Holes are elongate badly.

 

Without part numbers it looks like Nissan used all the same bushings for trans member, transfer case. Looks like the same size as front lower control arm?

 

Good or bad experiences with urethane vs rubber?

 

Anyone have a part number or viable substitute for cab mount bushings? Really want to stay rubber.

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Well I think I had a good day yesterday . I went trans shopping and engine shopping. Found a “low miles” 86 5 speed from a 2WD for my truck. As stated here, identical except for Speedo cable hole. The guy at the salvage yard said it had been sitting on his shelf for over 10 years. It was marked 88k miles A-1 condition , I’m hoping .

I then proceeded to look at a low mile Napz . Old guy said his son had bought the motor with 66k miles to put in his truck. Alas , he son got cancer and never made it. It had been sitting in a barn for over 7 years . Much cleaner then my motor and a bore scope showed very clean cylinders . It was nice meeting the old man and he was happy to see someone using the motor.

Hopefully I can put the two together for a good drivetrain !

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