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About DrvnDrvr

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/18/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bend Or.
  • Cars
    83 4x4 KC 720, 93 Aerostar, 86 Moto4
  • Occupation
    Truck Driver Central OR. and adjacent communities

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  1. DrvnDrvr

    Possible warning chime🤷‍♂️

    Pages 74 warning chime diagram and 88 location of electrical units in the electrical section
  2. DrvnDrvr

    Possible warning chime🤷‍♂️

    In my 83 FSM they are on pages EL 74 and EL88
  3. DrvnDrvr

    Possible warning chime🤷‍♂️

  4. DrvnDrvr

    Possible warning chime🤷‍♂️

  5. DrvnDrvr

    Skillard Nissan 720 Parts Group Buy

    Wylder1324 I really appreciate your enthusiasm for Datsuns and excellent workmanship. You are obviously a professional craftsman. But $100 door sills on a $800 truck is like my 80 year old gramma getting a boob job. The money could be better spent somewhere else.
  6. DrvnDrvr

    Where to Buy a Weber Carburetor Conversion?

    If you don't have to smog it, go for it. I'm running a 38/38 weber with the smog delete and getting 20/22 mpg on the highway. MPG goes right in the toilet when I go low range and 4WD offroad. The Z24 is what it is. A 4 banger that runs good with proper maintenance. The 35 year old smog stuff just gives the leak gremlins a place to hide. The Pierce Manifolds Weber 32/36 DGEV conversion kit would be a good way to go. The 38/38 is too much for a daily driver.
  7. DrvnDrvr

    v6 4.3 swap

    I've always thought that it would be easier to put a 720 cab and bed on the stronger S-10 frame and drivetrain with the 4.3 Vortec engine than jam the Vortec into a 720.
  8. DrvnDrvr

    Bushwhacked - bushings everywhere !

    Sorry for the slow response, took me a while to track down the guy that fixed this for me. You are correct. He enlarged the holes in the cupped washers and welded them to the frame and used flat washers to tighten the bushings to them. from https://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanparts/index.cfm?action=replacement&groupid=G&sectionid=401&jointvehid=18144&siteid=14 from Haynes 720 repair manual. This shows the sleeve not going through the cupped washers. Looks like there is some sort of washer between the bushing and frame. Doesn't show that part in the parts diagram. That part was completely rusted away on my truck and replaced and welded in place by modified cupped washers from the Rockauto kit. He then used flat washers on the outside next to the nut and lower control arm to tighten the bushings.
  9. DrvnDrvr

    1984 720, piston slap? How long do I have?

    I put the Rotella 15w-40 in my 83 Z-24 for 3 years now and have never really noticed a change in the sound. However when I changed the oil in a 86 Toyota 22RE i had for over a decade it reduced the rattle in the front of the engine every time. Timing chain tensioner I guess. Who knows.
  10. DrvnDrvr

    1985 nissan 720 rwd california daily.

  11. DrvnDrvr

    Bushwhacked - bushings everywhere !

    https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1985-nissan-720-pickup/front-final-drive-mounting.html?Filter=(1=K%2fCAB;2=Z24;4=F5;5=LONG;6=4WD) In this diagram they appear to be part of the crossmember.
  12. DrvnDrvr

    Write-up for 4x4 front disc replacement?

    Sometimes the old saying "If it ain't broke don't fix it." applies.
  13. DrvnDrvr

    Write-up for 4x4 front disc replacement?

    The front rotors aren't that hard to get to, if they've been off before. Like your head gasket the first time is the worst. There is an outer snap ring on the CV axle and an inner one on the hub that both need to come off to get the front hub off. There is also an axle bearing bolt and lock ring w/ cotter pin that need to come off. With Auto-hubs it might be a little different but I think the autohub comes off as single unit just like the manual one. The hex bolts holding the hub locker can be a B if they haven't been off before. Since the CV axles have been replaced it shouldn't be too hard to get it apart.
  14. DrvnDrvr

    Weber 38/38 DGESHigh idle Adjustment

    I have a Weber 38/38 on my 83 720 z24 motor that has always performed well but never had a cold start high idle. Found this write on a jeep forum https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/high-idle-kick-down-adjustment-weber-38-dges-2652890/ An ole' Southern Gentleman "Mcmud" gave us this info before he passed. In his Honor, I will pass this along to ya'll. UPTILLNOW Electric Choke Adjustment: The choking devise reduces the air flow into the carburetor and the linkage steps up the idle speed 3-400 RPM. When the engine is cold,this “choking” action will enrichen an already properly tuned engine. This automatic choke consists of an electrically-heated bimetallic coil that will heat and straighten when voltage is applied. Note: This electric choke does not sense engine heat but rather “time” voltage has been applied to it. The average time it takes to straighten the bimetallic strip is 3.5-4.5 minutes. The job of adjusting the choke is to find the time and amount of choking and match that tothe time and temperatures it takes to bring the engine to its full operating temperature. The amount of choking is determined from your already properly tuned hot engine, but in a cold condition. #1 The engine and carburetor should be properly “tuned” or adjusted prior to adjusting the choke for a cold engine operation. #2 The engine must be cold, typically the temperature when starting the engine in the morning after sitting all night. #3 Loosen (about 1 ½ turns out each) the 3 screws holding the bezel or metal ring supporting the plastic choke element. #4 With the choke butterfly closed, open the throttle lever and then release. This will activate the high idle linkage. The gap between the idle speed screw and the throttle lever should be approx ¼ inch. #5 With the throttle lever opened or stepped up ¼” from the choke linkage, rotate the plastic choke housing so the choke butterfly plates open, then rotate the same until the plates almost completely close. This adjustment is made from the engine cold, the choke plates held closed and the throttle linkage opened and on the high idle choke linkage, opening the choke butterfly and closing to a slightly closed position. #6 Retighten the bezel ring just tight enough so the choke won’t turn. Bottoming out the screws only bends the ring and then comes loose. #7 Your job is to now determine the timing of the choke operation with the time the engine comes to operating temperature. Adjust the choke rotation closed or open in 1/8 turn increments. Closed (ccw) for a longer duration of choking and open (cw) for lesser duration of choking. and it fixed it. I think it will work on the 34/36 Webers as well. Charlie?
  15. DrvnDrvr

    Write-up for 4x4 front disc replacement?

    Just a thought but how are your CV boots? If they need replacing in the not too distant future better to do the removing and replacing of ALL wear parts in your inner front end at one time. Kinda in for a dime in for a dollar. When I replaced my CV axles due them being the wrong ones, I replaced all the seals, bearings and other wear parts from the front diff out. Replaced the rotors and 3 studs as well. Stick with the OEM, Japan-made parts. Takes awhile to track down quality parts. There's always the $$ issue..

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