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About DrvnDrvr

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/18/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bend Or.
  • Cars
    83 4x4 KC 720, 93 Aerostar, 86 Moto4
  • Occupation
    Truck Driver Central OR. and adjacent communities

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  1. It's got that gorgeous bed with the outer bed cleats,horizontal tail lights and DATSUN stamped on the tailgate!!!! A true rare find.
  2. DrvnDrvr

    Another 720 build

    Aftermarket LEDs from https://www.ebay.com/itm/263584183555 they took a little effort to fit into the trim rings and the contacts in the 720 light plugs had to be rearranged but they are LEDs with the white light instead of the incandescent yellow. I didn't use the warning light/angel eye feature as red lights are not DOT approved on the front of vehicles here in Oregon.
  3. DrvnDrvr

    Another 720 build

    Although a piss poor pic my grill is custom simply because the chrome was never offered as an option on the us models. All the lights, grill and emblems are aftermarket bling that was pretty much remove and replace, no fabrication whatsoever.
  4. Pages 74 warning chime diagram and 88 location of electrical units in the electrical section
  5. In my 83 FSM they are on pages EL 74 and EL88
  6. Wylder1324 I really appreciate your enthusiasm for Datsuns and excellent workmanship. You are obviously a professional craftsman. But $100 door sills on a $800 truck is like my 80 year old gramma getting a boob job. The money could be better spent somewhere else.
  7. If you don't have to smog it, go for it. I'm running a 38/38 weber with the smog delete and getting 20/22 mpg on the highway. MPG goes right in the toilet when I go low range and 4WD offroad. The Z24 is what it is. A 4 banger that runs good with proper maintenance. The 35 year old smog stuff just gives the leak gremlins a place to hide. The Pierce Manifolds Weber 32/36 DGEV conversion kit would be a good way to go. The 38/38 is too much for a daily driver.
  8. DrvnDrvr

    v6 4.3 swap

    I've always thought that it would be easier to put a 720 cab and bed on the stronger S-10 frame and drivetrain with the 4.3 Vortec engine than jam the Vortec into a 720.
  9. Sorry for the slow response, took me a while to track down the guy that fixed this for me. You are correct. He enlarged the holes in the cupped washers and welded them to the frame and used flat washers to tighten the bushings to them. from https://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanparts/index.cfm?action=replacement&groupid=G&sectionid=401&jointvehid=18144&siteid=14 from Haynes 720 repair manual. This shows the sleeve not going through the cupped washers. Looks like there is some sort of washer between the bushing and frame. Doesn't show that part in the parts diagram. That part was completely rusted away on my truck and replaced and welded in place by modified cupped washers from the Rockauto kit. He then used flat washers on the outside next to the nut and lower control arm to tighten the bushings.
  10. I put the Rotella 15w-40 in my 83 Z-24 for 3 years now and have never really noticed a change in the sound. However when I changed the oil in a 86 Toyota 22RE i had for over a decade it reduced the rattle in the front of the engine every time. Timing chain tensioner I guess. Who knows.
  11. https://www.amazon.com/KYB-KG5447-Gas-a-Just-Gas-Shock/dp/B000C44D3Y
  12. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1985-nissan-720-pickup/front-final-drive-mounting.html?Filter=(1=K%2fCAB;2=Z24;4=F5;5=LONG;6=4WD) In this diagram they appear to be part of the crossmember.
  13. Sometimes the old saying "If it ain't broke don't fix it." applies.
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