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About bottomwatcher

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    82 720, 68 beetle + dailies

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  1. Once you pull it then there is extra work of "while it is out". While it is out may as well change front and rear crankshaft seal, hoses, leaking gaskets ect. Have fun!
  2. What year is the ka? Truck ka has v belts car has serpentine although I have a bracket from each and the only difference is the pulley. You would need a condenser to fit the core support and evap to fit the blower arrangement and a compressor that fits your bracket. The rest is kind of universal.
  3. My 82 is a king cab if that helps
  4. Nice write up. That job sucks but every old part has a little play that adds to the whole. Enjoy your fresh tight suspension.
  5. My 1982 720 has a camper shell for a 95 hardbody. Fits the bed perfectly.
  6. This is the idler I have now. A moog heavy duty. I didn't change it this last front end redo because it was still good. The stock idler used nylon which is too soft but so thin hard to replicate the bushing in any other material.. That Toyota arn looks beefy but that is a lot to pay.
  7. The upper A arms are longer which keeps the camber close to stock when raising the vehicle since the LCAs are so much longer than the stock A arms. Also the new arms have a different angle for the ball joint so it is closer to stock. If you just crank the torsion bars it sets everything to spending most of its life at the extreme of the angles it was designed for causing accelerated wear. Anyways when you add larger tires you add unsprung weight and leverage. You are basically beating your suspension with a larger hammer so parts wear is accelerated. I have used rancho 5000s for 30 years now and they seem to last pretty well. I always throw in new shocks each rebuild. The weakest link has always been the idler arm. The nylon bushing just isn't up to the task of larger tires. I have been using the moog heavy duty arms for years and they last. All of this is easy to check if you slide under the truck and have someone swing the wheel side to side while you watch all the wiggling down below.
  8. I am running an earlier version of that. The Jim Commer racing 2-3 inch lift is what they well billed as. I am running around 2 inches because it rides much smoother if you keep some down travel. I am not sure what Mike was meaning by the only things that wear out are shocks. I am runnings 31s and about every 70k miles it is time for a front end rebuild. Balljoints, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm, shocks and at 100k seems to be time for a new centerlink. About 1 k on my current rebuild and so much tighter and smoother.
  9. Like Charlie said. Use the straw on the carb cleaner and spray all mating surfaces and the ends of the shafts if the carb has high miles. Do this while the engine is running. If there is a change in rpm you have found a vacuum leak.
  10. You have any idea of the miles on the carb? I ran one for 20 plus years and probably 150k. The standard rebuild kit doesn't solve the shaft and bore wear issues. The idle was crap until I replaced the shaft bushings with sealed ball bearings. Best improvement to the carb I ever made.
  11. Wow. All I got out of that is Frankendot hates trustfunders. Some people won the lottery being born into a wealthy family. They didn't commit a crime. The drawback with the freedom to succeed is it comes with the freedom to fail. Basically you will get out of life what you put into it. The best part is pissing and moaning about the goverments response to COVID and then in the same breath wanting that same Gov. To run the healthcare system. Anyways back to Covid.
  12. Nissan improved the reliability, quicker starts and better fuel economy when they phased out the z 24 and replaced it with the KA.
  13. This doesn't make any sense. I did the ka 24e swap. 240sx intake on truck block. It will cost a couple grand if you do all the work yourself and is not a drop in, but man it makes the truck a pleasure to drive. To go through all that effort maintaining a z24 is a waste of time and money. That being said the z24 with a tuned weber and doing the maintainence schedule including headbolt retorquirng is will leave you with a dead nuts reliable rig. The amount of single digit solutes you get from todays roads and drivers will have you wishing for more power. The ka e running with a manual ecu and no vss input will cut out at 3500 rpms. Need auto ecu or vss sensor input.
  14. I put in fresh ones last year. 240k miles i replaced everything. My original home made tool made of 3/4 all thread from the hardware store broke right of the bat. The local machine shop sold me a thicker length of metric fine thread all thread and it worked ok but was a wrestling match. I bought a heavy duty balljoint press to do the ball joints on my 3/4 ton Silverado. I think that tool may do the job. Also before reinstalling I ran a brake hone through the bores. Looked like a fresh bored engine cylinder. I used my heavy duty all thread to push the new bushings in. Now that I have the heavy duty balljoint press for shits and grins I used it press out on old universal joint. Handy tool to have
  15. Why and with what? If you are pulling the bars may as well replace the Lower Control arm bushings. It is a miserable job but if they are old this really tightens things up. In fact while this is going on do a front rebuild because you will need to do a front alignment when replacing the bars anyways si do it right, do it once and be good for 50k miles if you are rolling larger than stock tires
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