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About bottomwatcher

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    82 720, 68 beetle + dailies

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  1. Jack up front of truck and feel for play in the wheel bearings. The large nut behind the gear that meshes with the hub adjusts the play in the wheel bearings by drawing the hollow stub shaft against the inner hub. Too loose would cause the stub axle to get "shorter".
  2. I think clymer. I have the FSMs but just grabbed one with exploded views next to each other. My thought process while going through the spare C trans was why my 4 Bs grenaded and my C trans is going flawlessly for 15 years in the same conditions. The only obvious difference between the two is the larger front countershaft bearing and rear roller bearing. I know there are a lot of other minor differences but to me one of these two is why the failures have stopped.
  3. The reason I was thinking about this was I had my spare 71C apart last week considering a rebuild. Everything looked pristine so I sealed it back up. Looking at the manual showed roller bearings on the rear of the countershaft of both the B and C but I don't remember them in the B. I do have an old B I can check next week. This got me curious.
  4. Looks familiar. Mine have always been the front countershaft ballbearing. The rear is a roller bearing definitely stronger but I guess can't take much for thrust loads. I am guessing that is why they use the ball bearings for the front and center?
  5. Thanks for the info fellows! New ring gear it is. Calipers could get interesting on the front because it has the aluminum 4 piston ones that swap onto the 80-82 datsun suspension. Maybe datsun ones fit the other way around. Well they are waiting for my return and will be a good indoor shop project in the spring.
  6. Thanks for chiming in Stoffy I know this is right up your ally. I took that pic to show the rust on the ring gear. Does it look salvageable? I towed the truck up to Maine which will be the trucks permanent home. Unfortunately it is going into storage tomorrow for 6 months while I return to Florida so I have lots of time to shop for parts. I did get front and rear so I plan on putting the set in. They will get stripped and rebuilt and while I am at it I think I will add rear disks and upgraded front brakes. These have the thin invented front discs. The guy said they are 1980.
  7. Well the big problem is getting a direct r@p that matches the datsun 4.37. If I could get the same r&p for the front I would trash the rear. But the gotta match!
  8. Well driving the old datty up here in Maine gets a lot of attention. They salt the roads up here and they are long gone. Anyways stopping at a yard sale with a bunch of automotive crap as soon as I got out of the truck the owners said " I have axles for you!". I gave up looking for Toyota axles on the east coast years ago. Typical rusty crap but I got front and rear axles plus the front frame of the truck including steering box for $300. Fuck it they will need a full rebuild plus backing plates ect . This will be a multiyear project because I did a full suspension rebuild a couple months ago. Anyways I got the axles. Sooo is this r&p shot? Do they sell a rebuild kit full everything? I never messed with toyota. The hunt for parts on the last front end rebuild led me to believe a straight axle swap was inevitable. Hopefully my pic works.
  9. Yes. Pull the locking hub off and there should be a snapring holding the end of the shaft in place.
  10. Yep that's toast! The c's have been in service a long time and are plentiful and cheap. Sorry you got screwed by a prick. They are the best upgrade from the B series.
  11. Go to the how to section well written swap there. I am rolling a KAe. Power is great but stock b series trans will not hold up. Got good mechanical/ wiring skills a shop and tools and $2-3k? If not keep rolling the 2.2.
  12. I love seafoam! Works wonders on small outboards, mowers,chainsaws ect. Maybe snake oil to some but I have done the oil change flush arraignment, fuel stabilization ect. for me I am convinced. I did decarbon a motor using water in a vacuum line run into the cab, don't want to hydro lock but steam is a powerful cleaner
  13. I just replaced my vent pipe on my axle a few days ago. All it is a brake line any autoparts stores carry it. 10mm threads. Just thread it in, cut off the extra and tuck the end into the hole on top of the spring perch. Less than $8 from autozone.
  14. Getting the pulley off is the hardest part. Otherwise just a snapring bearing and seal. Last time I did one I bought the bearing and seal using their numbers for about $15. Rebuild kits using the same parts I think was north of $60 and rebuilt pumps over $100. I just disconnected hoses and put rags on the ends. It wasn't a big mess but I have a remote resivior on mine. If your reservoir is attached drain the low pressure side.
  15. Well you got one good one!
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