1983.5 4x4 - retirement truck

[Madkaw]

Are the ST steering wheels smaller diameter ?

[Charlie69]

Yes I think they are just under 17" diameter.  I will measure one of mine tomorrow.  I keep forgetting to take my camera to where I have my 85 720 ST parts truck stored.  Maybe tomorrow.

[Charlie69]

1980 stock 720 steering wheel outside diameter is 15.5" and the ST steering wheels are 15".  Forgot to take my camera again today.

Edited December 1, 2018 by Charlie69

[Madkaw]

1 hour ago, Charlie69 said:

1980 stock 720 wheel outside diameter is 15.5" and the ST wheels are 15".  Forgot to take my camera again today.

 

Hell- that’s good enough Charlie - thanks

[Madkaw]

Tried some seats out today . Z31 and z32 variety. I had read here that the mounting was a close match - and it was true. The Z31 seats really line up well . Two of the holes are perfect. Front to back is almost dead on, the rails are just slightly wider. The power z31 seats will cause a bit of an issue for the motor assembly to clear part of the front rail. It’s just a small notch that need to be done . I’m not stuck on power seats , but would like to find leather and most of those are power. I’m not worried about weight- and good thing because these seats are heavy. Going with saddle brown interior so I will probably have to dye some seats or recover some. 

 

[bottomwatcher]

Most important feature when fitting seats is check your leg to steering wheel clearance. The 720 must have had some of the lowest seats ever made. 

[Madkaw]

Well I figured seats from a 300ZX had to sit low! There was actually a lot of room under the steering wheel, though a 1 inch smaller wheel would be cool. Beauty of these seats is they both flop forward for storage behind seats. Every inch counts in this little cab

[bottomwatcher]

It is a matter of inches in that cab and changing things can get everything out of whack. I finally settled on some old power maxima seats for mine but since I am the only one that drives it the power feature is never used. Now the sun ate my steering wheel so I bought a nice slightly smaller thicker gripped grant wheel. Like the look, comfortable on the hands and covers the fuel, temp and speedometer guages so nicely you have to Bob your head to see them. One of those things you never see coming until you drive it down the road.

[datzenmike]

The electric seats will get used if you drive for a long distance. At the end of a long day it's nice to adjust for comfort.

[Madkaw]

In the end- it was a matter of what was the best deal. Which seats were in the best shape . Electric or not. These are Maroon in color so nobody wanted them , but as far as seats , they were the best deal. 

[Madkaw]

The seats came in and they are in amazing shape considering they are 1988 seats. One tear in the drivers side bolster - that’s it. I already started to fit the passenger seat. Basically one side - front to back- can be made to fit the bolt holes by just elongating the seats rail holes. The other side will require some welding to add metal enough to reach the other chassis holes. It’s only off a half inch , so it’s an easy fix. Nice knowing this part of the project is pretty easy.

Ran into a issue trying to replace my parking brake cables that were bad . Drivers side are no longer available - period. This is for the 4WD . Found a new Wagner passenger side that was a perfect match. I’m actually resorting to a used cable for the drivers side . Also NLA is the rear shackles for the leaf springs . Mine are barely usable , but something can be substituted easily if needed. 

I’ll add to the NLA list is bushings for crossmembers for the front diff and transfer case. 

I was disappointed to find more rust than I thought on the floor around the main support bushing . I knew it had rust, but it’s rusted thru in spots. It’s an easy fix as far as the sheet metal , but not sure how the bushing will play into the fix.

Front end is put back together including the torsion bars - that part was fun :0

Ill post pics later

[Madkaw]

I’ll add to the list a full engine rebuild. I thought I would avoid this but oil ring impressions in the bore and some minor pitting convinced me otherwise . I’m going cheap though, ordered a DNJ kit . Not like me to go cheap parts , but this is a cheap truck and I’m not sure I’m staying with the Z motor in the long run. At 125$ for a rebuild kit and some engine work I think I can some some miles out of this truck. Going .020 over on the pistons and new bearings . My budget is crashing as we speak, but I couldn’t let the engine stuff go. Now my fingers are crossed about the transmission . 

[Madkaw]

 

I’ve done about all I can do on the front end. 

Moving on to cab mounts and engine rebuild

 

[bottomwatcher]

That looks frigging good! But going through all this effort why rebuild the original motor? If you are staying stock I understand or a tight budget but it looks like you have the space and definitely the skills for a ka swap. Different truck in an awsome way once done. Anyways keep up the good work, you are definitely doing quality work!

[Madkaw]

Tight budget and not wanting that much work right now. I have 2 z24 motors . Parts are super cheap and I’m considering a small turbo eventually. 

Im not really much of a truck guy, but you know you always need one! I’ve retired and I am selling off my Z71 and just want a replacement. So I’m trying to put the money and effort into making a solid body and interior and then if I want to do a motor swap later - I can. 

I’ve read up on swaps and it seems these z24 motors are tough, and I’m not worried about power. I have a 71 240z that I am building a stroker for, so that’s where I want to invest my $$.

I’m doing way more than I thought already. I thought I was just going to be doing a clutch job and here we are. 

This wont even be my DD probably. I’ll probably get a small beater car. But then again, I might DD it. Hell, I don’t go anywhere much anymore .

 

[datzenmike]

20 minutes ago, Madkaw said:

I’m doing way more than I thought already. I thought I was just going to be doing a clutch job and here we are. 

 

 

Classic

[Madkaw]

Making progress. Working in several directions at once . Seats are going in slowly. Fitting them hasn’t been bad, but took a little work. So when I get tired of doing them I moved on to my engine . Needed to get all these parts off the shelf and on the engine. 

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

A solid turbo system will take some time and money to get built and tuned just right. An engine swap would be cheaper.

[Madkaw]

For me - EFI turbo charging would probably be easier and more interesting . 

But we will see . I need just a running motor right now -lol

[Madkaw]

 

 

Edited January 7, 2019 by Madkaw

[Madkaw]

The final final piece of the puzzle. The power steering pump has been rebuilt and installed. I guess the AC could go on there too! The engine seemed so small when it was just the block, now it’s grown into this tall , big 4 banger 

 

 

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Did you fully weld the seams on the floor patch? If not, get some good seam sealer and apply it to both sides of the patch. I've learned the hard way that seam sealer is super important.

 

If you've never used seam sealer, there are a few varieties. The caulking gun type (not two part) should work for you. To get a nice bead on there (and not have a giant mess), tape both sides of the seam with green or yellow masking tape, run the bead, smooth it out with your finger and some lacquer thinner to get it looking right (with a glove) and pushed into the cracks, pull the tape before it starts to set, let dry, done.

[Madkaw]

I’ve put a weld bead on there. I plan on using seam sealer when I’m done all my patch work. Probably POR-15 everything then seam sealer .

[Madkaw]

The wife didn’t even notice when she parked next to it

 

[Charlie69]

You are getting there.  Nice work.