1983.5 4x4 - retirement truck

[Madkaw]

Torsion bar adjustment bolts - I looking for a source or recommendation . Don’t want to pull something off the Lowe’s shelf

[Charlie69]

Picture of what you need please.

[Madkaw]

[Charlie69]

I will check the wrecking yards over the next couple of weeks.  There are a couple 4x4s in the yards.  Can I get an overall length of the bolt please.  These are much longer than the 2wd bolts.  It looks by part number that Hardbody are different.

Edited March 17, 2019 by Charlie69

[Madkaw]

8 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

I will check the wrecking yards over the next couple of weeks.  There are a couple 4x4s in the yards.  Can I get an overall length of the bolt please.  These are much longer than the 2wd bolts.  It looks by part number that Hardbody are different.

 

I will measure , but they are close to 12” long. They are pain to remove, so many threads 

[Madkaw]

Found some bolts !

 

Now another question . How the hell are you servicing the u joints on these trucks . Grease gun tip won’t fit in between the U hubs . Can’t find anyone that sells extra long grease nipples in 6mm size . 

 

[Charlie69]

I grind the sides of my grease bun tip to fit.

[Madkaw]

Well things have progressed pretty well. Ready to drop in the engine . Waiting on a vent tube for trans which I won’t be able to reach once the engine is in the way. 

Pushing the limits of my engine hoist for height ! 

Front end is done except waiting on new bump stops for he upper A arms . Found a dash that is nicer than mine , but still will need some work. AC install is coming along, so the HVAC should be ready for when the dash comes

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Charlie69]

That is looking good Madkaw!

[Madkaw]

So the engine is in and running ! 

The pic shows the oil priming stage . 

Except for the dizzy being 180 degrees out and forgetting to tighten the Weber carb adapter - everything went fine - lol

The engine doesn’t have 20 minutes on it but I am concerned with some blue smoke from the exhaust . Never had a rebuild smoke this much , though it’s not a lot. Power steering gear box was leaking so bad I pulled it and I haven’t run the motor since . Hoping pistons rings just need to seat with some time and clear up the smoke . 

[datzenmike]

Give it the throttle! Make it work. Load is what forces the rings against the bores and seats or 'wears them in'. Just' driving it' extends the break in time. A fast break in is best.

[Madkaw]

So good news is the smoke is about gone with only a few miles on there . Starts up pretty well, but I think I need to raise the fast idle . About forgot how to drive a carb engine . I guess I will need to pump the throttle at least once to prime things ? This is a new Weber . Once warm it starts like EFI. Power is a bit on the gutless side , but I have 3.88 gears . Little different than when I stab the gas on my Z - lol.

Because if seal leak on transfer case I haven’t got it out on the highway yet . 

With no door seals the ride is a bit rattily , plus the fact of the stiff 4WD leafs . Anyone soften up their ride by swapping to 2WD leafs or removing a leaf? Not looking for a Cadillac ride, but this will be a light duty truck for just kicking around in . 

Edited August 14, 2019 by Madkaw

[Madkaw]

On 6/30/2019 at 9:02 PM, datzenmike said:

Give it the throttle! Make it work. Load is what forces the rings against the bores and seats or 'wears them in'. Just' driving it' extends the break in time. A fast break in is best.

 

You are right Mike and that’s what I did . I made it work , but punching the throttle kept breaking lose the back tires —NOT - lol. 

[datzenmike]

Wait 5K before bothering with the fast idle. The engine will probably loosen up and then you'll have to turn it down. Fast idle is 1,800 to 2,200. Yes, carbs with chokes have to be pumped at least once for a cold start. This sets the choke and squirts raw fuel into the intake. On exceptionally cold days 2 or 3 pumps help.

[Madkaw]

14 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Wait 5K before bothering with the fast idle. The engine will probably loosen up and then you'll have to turn it down. Fast idle is 1,800 to 2,200. Yes, carbs with chokes have to be pumped at least once for a cold start. This sets the choke and squirts raw fuel into the intake. On exceptionally cold days 2 or 3 pumps help.

 

Thanks . Last carbs on my Z were Triple Mikunis and SU’s before that. Neither needed pumping to start. I wanted to make sure the pumping would screw with the fast idle on this Weber. I think I will turn it up just a tad, barely 1200 cold . 

[datzenmike]

When the engine cools the choke coil shrinks and tries to pull the choke flap closed but the throttle (at idle) stops this. Stepping on the gas releases the choke so it can close. The fast idle is connected to the choke by a linkage. Choke on... fast idle on. Choke off ... fast idle off. You may simply have to bend the linkage slightly to move the fast idle up a step. If you adjust the speed screw, when it gets cold it will automatically go up one or more steps and the idle will be screaming. The fast idle is set at the factory and should never needs adjusting.

[Madkaw]

Latest update is the truck has about 350 miles and the smoke has cleared . Funny thing is that the other day it blew out a big plume of smoke and I thought WTF, but never has done that again . 
Having resto pains though. Stuff that I didn’t get quite right and having the truck completely apart has caught up with me a couple of times , but nothing I couldn’t mend . 
It doesn’t drive to bad , but I think I need to have my DS balanced . Seems to have some kind of drivetrain vibration around 60+ mph. And yes I had all tires balanced . 
Found a smaller 13.5” steering wheel that seems to make this standard cab a bit roomier , but honestly would like an extended cab .

Even with my doggy 4.11:1 gears the truck is not that bad accelerating , but it is a 1983 4 cylinder -lol

Hopefully this winter I will get the rest of the frame painted and interior done and thinking about paint .

Still having fun with it . Not my DD so I can park it if it pisses me off 

[datzenmike]

One of the wheel weights may have come off.

Balancing weight on the drive shaft may have come off.... take a look for a clean spot where they were.

 

Could be a bad U joint?

I've has a piece break off the brake drum before.

[Charlie69]

On 6/30/2019 at 5:40 PM, Madkaw said:

So the engine is in and running ! 

The pic shows the oil priming stage . 

Except for the dizzy being 180 degrees out and forgetting to tighten the Weber carb adapter - everything went fine - lol

The engine doesn’t have 20 minutes on it but I am concerned with some blue smoke from the exhaust . Never had a rebuild smoke this much , though it’s not a lot. Power steering gear box was leaking so bad I pulled it and I haven’t run the motor since . Hoping pistons rings just need to seat with some time and clear up the smoke . 

Nice work Madkaw. 

 

I am close to putting  a rebuilt Z20 and a lower mileage 5 speed in my 86 720 King Cab DD.

[Madkaw]

Well I haven’t kept up with this thread very well, but have too many projects -lol. Finally doing the first oil change . Already don’t like that aspect of service with the oil filter placement . Kind of make a mess getting it off and out from there . While under there I found a leak that I believe I traced back to the front half moon rubber. Had the front lip pinched under during install I guess.

Vibration issue turned out to be a pinion nut I didn’t get enough torque on when I replaced the seal. Still have some vibrations but I haven’t replaced U Joints yet - that’s next. Then there’s engine vibration , it doesn’t idle as smooth as I hoped and I do have a slight tick. I plan on checking valves again during this oil change - as well as a compression test, leak down test, spark plug check, etc....

I ordered a wideband and I have enough to install it , just waiting on the gauge . This should take some of the guess work out of it. I think I’m running the truck a bit lean .

Amazingly almost everything works on the truck as far as lighting , but do have the headlight switch issue where I have to rapid fire the stalk to get the headlights to work properly. I had ordered a new switch and swapped guts into my NLA 83 tilt wheel combo switch, but I guess it’s the cam that throw the contacts is what is screwed , so still have combo switch issues . 

My transmission leaks at the center plate , just a drip , drip deal enough to piss you off. I found a late 80’s C trans to swap in. I will get my output shaft shortened and make the adapter to use the better trans and sell this one to someone that needs it and wants to fix the leak. Shifts great , but if I’m going to fix, I’m going to replace . 

Pics of my plugs - looks a tad lean ,  but not too far off. Clean though- that’s what I’m happy about . It seemed to take a while to seat rings , but looks like there is not oil issue 

 

 

Dont think I’ll need to do a leak down test but I will check CR

[Madkaw]

Gave the truck a little more love today . Did a compression test and cylinders were 160-170 across . Didn’t think a leak down was necessary . I also installed a O2 sensor in the exhaust , so when my gauge comes in I will be ready to roll. 

So by the plugs and compression test it would seem that this motor would run a bit smoother . I need to put a socket on the balancer to make sure it’s still tight. 

[Crashtd420]

11 hours ago, Madkaw said:

Gave the truck a little more love today . Did a compression test and cylinders were 160-170 across . Didn’t think a leak down was necessary . I also installed a O2 sensor in the exhaust , so when my gauge comes in I will be ready to roll. 

So by the plugs and compression test it would seem that this motor would run a bit smoother . I need to put a socket on the balancer to make sure it’s still tight. 

Fyi .... not sure if your waiting for the gauge to be able to drive the truck but I believe you can ruin the o2 sensor if it's not powered while the engine is running...

[Madkaw]

12 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Fyi .... not sure if your waiting for the gauge to be able to drive the truck but I believe you can ruin the o2 sensor if it's not powered while the engine is running...

Appreciate the input

[Madkaw]

Well today was a big day ! Tried 4 WD for the first time on this truck. Seem to take forever to get a driveshaft together . Pretty happy since I had this truck completely apart - including the auto hubs. Heard a little rotational noise, but nothing scary . The front DS had all kinds of weights on it when I first got it and I grinded them all off. Haven’t had a chance to take somewhere to get balanced , and I was waiting to replace U joints on he main-shaft first so I can have both balanced at the same time. 

Not sure what to expect from an 83 4WD Nissan since I never owned one before as far as the drivetrain idiosyncrasies. Are they noisy drivetrains ? Highway speeds with 4WD engaged advised ? 

 

Had the truck to 65 mph today also. It actually rides pretty decent . No carpet or insulation , no headliner and it wasn’t miserable . The rattling rear slider window might have to go though.

 

 

Engine has been idling rough so I need to really look it over . Need to revisit the valve adjustment . Freaking gauge still hasn’t come in for my wideband. 

 

Is the turning radius pretty bad on these trucks or just mine ?? I figured it has something to do with limiting the turn because of the front axles. 

 

15x10 wheels clear everything since I’m looking ? 

 

[datzenmike]

On 11/5/2019 at 6:41 AM, Crashtd420 said:

Fyi .... not sure if your waiting for the gauge to be able to drive the truck but I believe you can ruin the o2 sensor if it's not powered while the engine is running...

 

I don't know about all sensors, mine's a Bosch wide band but the instructions say not to run one without power to it. 

 

When installed in the exhaust, the oxygen sensor must be connected to a powered, functional MTX-L (no error codes) whenever the engine is running. An un-powered sensor will be damaged in a short period of time when exposed to exhaust gas. 

 

Also not to have the ignition on for a long time and not start it. Here you could just turn it off for 5 min to cool it down?

 

Do not pre-warm the sensor before starting the engine, simply start the engine as normal. Allowing the sensor to pre-warm before starting the engine will increase the possibility of damaging the sensor from shock-cooling.