1983.5 4x4 - retirement truck

[datzenmike]

Look for the distributor part number stamped in the side. Begins 22100-?????...... could be 20W60? 10W20? 40W20? Let me know.

 

 

Mechanical.... 9.5 @ 2,400 on the distributor so 19 on the crank. (with vacuum advance disconnected) I would have expected more like 25 or 28 so the 3 initial would add to 32.

 

Vacuum.......... 5⁰ could be as much as 12.5  depends on the part number. I assume this is a non-California truck?

[Madkaw]

39 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Look for the distributor part number stamped in the side. Begins 22100-?????...... could be 20W60? 10W20? 40W20? Let me know.

 

 

Mechanical.... 9.5 @ 2,400 on the distributor so 19 on the crank. (with vacuum advance disconnected) I would have expected more like 25 or 28 so the 3 initial would add to 32.

 

Vacuum.......... 5⁰ could be as much as 12.5  depends on the part number. I assume this is a non-California truck?

I look for the numbers , but this was a Nevada truck with all the high altitude emissions stuff on the carbon canister . 

So all the advance comes in early I see. 

So you are saying you thought it was more mechanical advance then the 19? 

So I am only around 30+- 2 degrees total mechanical . That’s not outrageous even for this 8 spark head . I think I can dial in the carb good enough to allow idle and shit off properly with the advanced timing . But we will see!

[datzenmike]

Total is mechanical + the adjustable initial on the distributor . (with the vacuum disconnected)

 

If you have 32? and have 12 initial then the difference (20) is the mechanical. The factory is 3 (plus the 20) is only 23 total. That seems kind of low.

[Madkaw]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Total is mechanical + the adjustable initial on the distributor . (with the vacuum disconnected)

 

If you have 32? and have 12 initial then the difference (20) is the mechanical. The factory is 3 (plus the 20) is only 23 total. That seems kind of low.

23 is low , but if it’s a CA model with 24 degrees of vacuum advance , now we are in the 40’s at cruise , which is good for a lean burn. I ran no vacuum advance on my Z , but it had a cam. I ran 19-20 initial and it had 17 degrees of mechanical . It ran strong . I run 45 degrees at low KPA on my Z now with my Megasquirt . I was getting great MPG even with a 490/290 cam !

I have an extra dizzy somewhere that I need to check it’s numbers too. 

[Madkaw]

Okay - I found that I have the 08 dizzy, with 10 total degrees advance at the dizzy and figuring 20 total at the crank ? So that’s a lot of vacuum advance . I might need to back’r down a bit . There are some models with 11.5 and 12 .  I tried reading the KPA numbers in the FSM, but my dyslexia started to kick in . The KPA scale must be some kind of standardized scale for the industry . With an engine with such low compression I would think you could get away with more timing if you can manage it. 

[Madkaw]

Besides tuning I’ve been fighting vibrations in the truck . Since I have very few miles on the truck I started checking for loose stuff. I did find the drivers side wheel bearing loose. I did not have the tool to properly torque the big castellated nut when I installed everything , obviously I didn’t get it tight enough. Also have been fighting driveshafts . Found an extra main shaft at the JY that was in an kingcab. It was too long but had a good spline on its yoke. I took two DS’s to the machinist and had one good one made. My old shaft had considerable play if you pushed up on the spline .

Also found a U joint cap that I didn’t press in all the way on the front DS, no wonder it rattled in 4WD-dumb! 

[datzenmike]

Vacuum advance is only for part throttle. I'm talking full throttle where there is virtually no ported vacuum advance. That's why I said to pull the vacuum advance hose off or it will skew the readings.

 

Again read me the part number stamped on the side of the distributor. 22100-????? This will ID it as California or not emissions.

[Madkaw]

52 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Vacuum advance is only for part throttle. I'm talking full throttle where there is virtually no ported vacuum advance. That's why I said to pull the vacuum advance hose off or it will skew the readings.

 

Again read me the part number stamped on the side of the distributor. 22100-????? This will ID it as California or not emissions.

I know when the vacuum advance comes in, but don’t understand their scale in the FSM. 

 

 

I went by the FSM . It breaks down the dizzy by the model type which is also engraved on the dizzy body, so I’m pretty sure I have the numbers right. 

Edited December 27, 2019 by Madkaw

[Madkaw]

Well got schooled again today about basics . Timing light showed about 20 degrees total WITH vacuum advance plugged in. Pulled the vacuum hose at the dizzy and no vacuum, but plenty at the carb. Didn’t realize the hard vacuum lined crossed over so my lines were backwards at the dizzy and evaporator canister . It’s a wonder I was able to run so much advance because I had no vacuum advance . I thought I should test the vacuum canister and glad I did , it had some kind of leak , so it was no good anyway - lol. Thank god for spares . 

Now the engine is properly timed , but could still use some fuel at WOT throttle . 

Meanwhile a power steering line decide to start leaking . Fluid straight out the top of the steering box on the big line . It seems the line was not perfectly straight on the nut so it wasn’t sitting squarely on the fitting . A little tweak and I got lucky . Wish I could get lucky with this transmission leak.

 

And the DAMN vibration when I drive over 45 mph. Still can’t figure it out . Pretty sure it’s the tires , even though I just had them balanced . I talked to the tire guy today and said he will do a ‘running’ balance ? I didn’t realize there was two types of a balance . The tires look brand new , but the truck sat for maybe a couple of years . I guess a balance where they actually have load on the tire might pick up a broken belt. I’ve had the driveshafts balanced with new U joints also. 

[ckm319]

The tires on mine were balanced but old, I replaced them and it all went away. I know what you mean,it was so bad I would have thought something else.

[datzenmike]

I had an old '65 Pontiac that shook really bad. Eventually I found that a piece of the brake drum had broken off.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I've seen cheap rotors that are not the same thickness all the way around the rotor, like the casting shifted.

[vicdat]

The vibration still could be in the driveline...possibly the yokes were switched or an issue withe balancing the drive shaft. 

[datzenmike]

Wheel weigh fell off.

Mud stuck inside the rim.

Engine or transmission mount loose

Engine to transmission bolts loose

 

Under coating sprayed on driveshaft.

 

[Madkaw]

Well they did a road force balance on my tire . One was out a bit , but hard to say if it’s the issue since I haven’t picked it up yet. I think the only way to be sure is to replace them. Tire shop said he saw a bit of dry rot and the truck sat for a long time . I’m probably wasting my time with these tires at this point . I wanted to wait to find different rims , but I’m probably going to buy new tire for this first . It has hardbody stock chrome rims now with 235 ‘s on it . I wanted 8” rims , so 235 would be right for that size rim. Don’t know what the stock size rims are - maybe  7” ? 
The only driveshaft that hasn’t been totally reworked is the shorty . Front and rear shafts have new U joints and balanced . Pinion angle is within a .5 degree. Pinion seems solid . All the suspension bits have been replaced and front end aligned . Got to be the tires . 
 

It probably doesn’t take much for NVH to sound bad in this tin cans 

[datzenmike]

For the 720 it ranges from 5J14, 6J14,  5 1/2 x 15, 6J15 depending if 2wd, 4x4 or if factory mag rims. There are many 6 bolt rims that will fit from Chev, Ford, Toyota, Isuzu, Mazda and more.

[Madkaw]

Worked on windows and weatherstripping today . Bought the window squeegees from flea bay and finally got around to installing . First I had to install a better set of crank assemblies . Mine were worn out and got a good used set. I did a little gusset work on the crank support area that seems to wear out on these. 

The squeegees definitely were not Nissan parts, so it wasn’t plug and play. They cut them a little short - especially the outside one. Why wouldn’t they cut them long so you could cut them to size ;(

Ordered some window channel felts , we will see how that goes . The rubber section around the window is in serviceable shape but the felt section inside the door was gone !

 

 

Edited January 23, 2020 by Madkaw

[Charlie69]

Would you please post where you purchased these with the sellers info so I can try a different source for my 84 720 ST.

[Madkaw]

iyaikub is the seller . I sent him a message about being short . I will see if he responds

[Madkaw]

I’m about to try a different approach on the window belt strip weatherstripping. I’ve been looking at Fairchild Industries that makes them for many trucks - BUT OURS😡

They do maybe a huge selection of vehicles that surely one would match . Some old Ford, Dodge , Jeep trucks have a similar type of clips and shape of the strips. I need to go to the local JY and start comparing . Fairchild uses real rubber on steel backer and they are cheap . Maybe find one that’s just longer and cut it to length- if the clips are movable and quality spring steel. 

Older F-150’s look decent and close , so do the jeeps , but might not be long enough. 

I tried dealing directly with Fairchild and they aren’t interested in helping me unless I am going to buy a 1000 units . 

 

On on another note , I did some more carb tuning this past weekend . I was shooting for WOT AFR’s . It took 165/160 main jets to get 13 AFR . Now this is mashing the throttle and shifting at 5k+ . I think the truck is peppy even with my 3.90 gears - might be an advantage with higher gears . Haven’t done much highway cruising to verify mixture there, but my plugs are clean. I have my idle jet sitting at just over one turn out , so idle is 15 AFR or leaner . I have a fresh motor and stock size tires which might make a difference compared to other guys . When I think I have it tuned , I will do a direct comparison by timing 0-60 times between my tune and the jetting that comes with the WEBER . Not that I’m planning on racing my truck , but I truly believe the jetting that comes with this carb can be improved greatly and get better MPG . 

[Charlie69]

Sent you a PM, I hope it helps you.

[Lockleaf]

You asked a while back about 15x10s.  Offset is a HUGE factor in whether or not you can get away with these, as well as total tire size.  So final answer is Maybe.

 

I have a set of vintage 15x10 western wheels turbines with something like 4.25 backspacing.  I had 31x10.5s on my 720 and even with my 2.5 inch front lift, the tires rubbed pretty badly on turns on the rear of the wheel well.  More lift or less tire would be necessary for my rims to work.  But hey, they are for sale if you are interested.

 

See if you can get specs from fairchild for their products.  If they have a spreadsheet of various measurements for the different components they make, you could use that and take measurments from you stock pieces to find the best match.  

 

Also congrats on the purchase of the z22e manifold.  I've tried to get a few different ones and every time the stupid purchase fell through or they wanted some ridiculous amount I was unwilling to pay.  I had a guy on here offer to pull a full EFI setup from the junkyard in CA for me and I would pay him.  After he pulled it all, he decided he wanted to keep it so that deal died too.  Eventually I want one of these manifolds as well.

Edited February 14, 2020 by Lockleaf

[Madkaw]

1 hour ago, Lockleaf said:

You asked a while back about 15x10s.  Offset is a HUGE factor in whether or not you can get away with these, as well as total tire size.  So final answer is Maybe.

 

I have a set of vintage 15x10 western wheels turbines with something like 4.25 backspacing.  I had 31x10.5s on my 720 and even with my 2.5 inch front lift, the tires rubbed pretty badly on turns on the rear of the wheel well.  More lift or less tire would be necessary for my rims to work.  But hey, they are for sale if you are interested.

 

See if you can get specs from fairchild for their products.  If they have a spreadsheet of various measurements for the different components they make, you could use that and take measurments from you stock pieces to find the best match.  

 

Also congrats on the purchase of the z22e manifold.  I've tried to get a few different ones and every time the stupid purchase fell through or they wanted some ridiculous amount I was unwilling to pay.  I had a guy on here offer to pull a full EFI setup from the junkyard in CA for me and I would pay him.  After he pulled it all, he decided he wanted to keep it so that deal died too.  Eventually I want one of these manifolds as well.

Thanks for the info on the wheels . I’m not going big tires - I want my truck to have some pep to it. I’m also not goin to lift it , so maybe 8” wide with the proper offset would be best for me .

As far as the weather strips , I might try the ones sold in Canada by New Datsun Parts . They look better than the Thailand crap and are made in a steel core . They guarantee the fit , so maybe they have done all the leg work already with a good manufacture . 
The truck runs so good with my Weber right now I’m not sure I want to change it - lol. It starts in the first RPM. Wish the motor ran smoother - maybe EFI would help that - unless I have a balance issue

[Madkaw]

So I did this today ! Didn’t like a lot of the stock bumpers , so made my own . Kind of like the twin tube - just one biggie tube. Now I am finally ready to take stuff to the powder coater . 

 

 

 

 

 

[NC85ST]

Nice. Reminds me a bit of some of the bumpers available in the 80’s. Looks good.