1983.5 4x4 - retirement truck

[NC85ST]

That is crazy prices for paint. Of course last truck I painted was about 30 years ago. When you see the word “reducer”, think paint thinner. Reducer is what it’s called when you’re talking about enamel or at least it was. Pre-reduced paint is like 50/50 coolant, no need to add anything else.

[datzenmike]

Do they still call it paint? I thought it was two part with a hardener like epoxy? 

 

side note: I worked for General Motors in '74 painting truck boxes. Was there when they started doing the '75s. I was there just before they switched to robots. I just loved painting the different colors.

[Madkaw]

10 minutes ago, NC85ST said:

That is crazy prices for paint. Of course last truck I painted was about 30 years ago. When you see the word “reducer”, think paint thinner. Reducer is what it’s called when you’re talking about enamel or at least it was. Pre-reduced paint is like 50/50 coolant, no need to add anything else.

I paid a little over 500$ for 80 oz’s of paint . Little more than a half gallon . That’s about 50 oz’ of the decent stuff and 25 oz’s of the good stuff . Urethane clear is crazy expensive , but base coat/ clear coat is about the industry standard . 
I get most guys won’t spend this kind of money on these cheap trucks . For me it’s all the time I had prepping for paint and want an impressive color after all that work . The OEM metallic brown is quite pretty and I got a lot of compliments . Hard to pull off brown on a car or truck - lol. That’s why I took a chance with the Motegi wheels and their bronze color . I’d like to do some trim colors on the side - but we will see

[frankendat]

16 hours ago, Madkaw said:

There is also different grades of paint . The same color can be twice that cost for the top of the line - and you will see the difference . Good quality clear is 750$ a gallon . Also makes a huge difference what clear you use . I’m actually going to do the first few coats in a midline paint and use the high end for the last coat . The high line stuff really makes the metallic pop . 
We won’t even talk about the red that’s on my Z :-0

Thought it was so much cheaper BUT it will take more, because it is "pre reduced" and the cost of clear, I'm creeping on $1500 for paint quickly. What paint code are you using? How does it compare to the Ram Western Brown?

 

[Madkaw]

I believe the code is 015 for the color . I’ll check my data plate 

[frankendat]

3 hours ago, Madkaw said:

I believe the code is 015 for the color . I’ll check my data plate 

No worries. I found the 015 code and the Dupont number, it is a few posts back in this thread. I was curious if your ordered the standard stock color (I have not purchased automotive paint in large quantity) So, it is like house paint, where you go to the shop and say I need this much of Nissan dark brown metallic 015, they mix you a batch and Bob's your uncle?

 

[Madkaw]

26 minutes ago, frankendat said:

No worries. I found the 015 code and the Dupont number, it is a few posts back in this thread. I was curious if your ordered the standard stock color (I have not purchased automotive paint in large quantity) So, it is like house paint, where you go to the shop and say I need this much of Nissan dark brown metallic 015, they mix you a batch and Bob's your uncle?

 

You go to a body shop paint supplier and ask for that code . They should give you some options 

[Madkaw]

Finally nailed my painter down to a day to paint - this Sunday . Go to start my truck and my TPS took a dump on me - won’t start . Now I have to hope a Durajunk one from Autozone makes it in on time 

[frankendat]

1 hour ago, Madkaw said:

Finally nailed my painter down to a day to paint - this Sunday . Go to start my truck and my TPS took a dump on me - won’t start . Now I have to hope a Durajunk one from Autozone makes it in on time 

That is unfortunate. I dislike electronics that cannot be circumvented in a pinch. Isn't there a "limp" mode or some such, that will allow operation without the sensor?

[Madkaw]

1 hour ago, frankendat said:

That is unfortunate. I dislike electronics that cannot be circumvented in a pinch. Isn't there a "limp" mode or some such, that will allow operation without the sensor?

I don’t know a way to circumvent the TPS . The beauty of electronics is that my laptop identified the bad acting sensor so I know where to start looking . In the world of electronics these days -  cars sensors are usually fairly reliable . 

[datzenmike]

I guess you could call it a sensor but it's really just an adjustable switch. Switch is closed below 1,350 and open above.

[Madkaw]

39 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I guess you could call it a sensor but it's really just an adjustable switch. Switch is closed below 1,350 and open above.

It’s a 240sx TPS 

[datzenmike]

Is this not titled 83.5 4x4 retirement truck?

 

OK on an S13 TPS there is an additional set of contacts that close at full throttle. This tells the EFI to ignore the factory fuel map and go full power and ignore the O² sensor.

[Madkaw]

6 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Is this not titled 83.5 4x4 retirement truck?

 

OK on an S13 TPS there is an additional set of contacts that close at full throttle. This tells the EFI to ignore the factory fuel map and go full power and ignore the O² sensor.

This is a Megasquirt EFI. The TPS is a full scale sensor in my install . 

Edited April 6 by Madkaw

[bottomwatcher]

2 hours ago, Madkaw said:

This is a Megasquirt EFI. The TPS is a full scale sensor in my install . 

You are speaking Chinese to Mike. He is solely a carb guy.

[Madkaw]

1 hour ago, bottomwatcher said:

You are speaking Chinese to Mike. He is solely a carb guy.

It would be one of the few things he doesn’t know - lol. 

[Madkaw]

[frankendat]

That looks fantastic, the pearl pops!

[Madkaw]

Didn’t even get to finish putting the truck together and had to make a Datsun parts run. Guy wanted all his stuff gone . I have to go back for another truck load . All 240z parts !!