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    Relax...I got an angle. 1984 Datsun/Nissan KC - 1972 Suzuki LJ20

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  1. Everything Datzenmike said and search for other threads on this subject where DatzenMike provided pictures of the differences in oil pumps to insure you get the right one. The information provided was very beneficial to me. But first, have you performed a slow and precise oil check (dipstick) to determine you're not just a quart or two low?
  2. Hey Tedman, I ended up only Cerakoteing the internals. I am out of the heat transfer coating, for the exterior, and ordering more, at this time and for this product, offended the delicacies of taste and passion.(Or maybe I'm cheap). I coated the interior surfaces of a hydraulic pump some years ago and last I checked it was still good to go. By checked, I mean, it has remained operational and there hasn't been a bunch of Cerakote flakes in the filters. I had the pump bench tested, before and after and saw an increase in pressure. I would have to dig up the reports of the bench testing business, to recall how much. If I find or create a steady use for it, then I might be talked into paying for another test to see if the benefits remained or were quickly worn away.
  3. There was a 24hr Fitness in Boise in the 90's and early 00's. When you walked in, young, cute and spunky, sales girls offered samples of overpriced, designer "health" supplements to aide fitness goals. One day they were promoting Blueberry cheesecake protein bars: "Have a sample of our new Blueberry Cheesecake protein bars," said the perky, sexy, chipmunk. "O.k." I said. "Isn't it just fabulous?" She asked. "It's good." I responded. "Doesn't it taste - Exactly - like Blueberry Cheesecake." She asked. "It tastes like Blueberry Cheesecake." I replied. "How many boxes would you like?" She asked. "None." I replied. "Why?" She asked. "Because, it isn't a Blueberry Cheesecake." I replied and walked away. I have posted this story, before, but I didn't quote it, I typed it from memory,(hopefully my lies match up).
  4. That could be a good thing, I would trust an mechanic who grew up and owned Datsuns more than one who didn't. Just need to shop around and find one with your kind of crazy
  5. I might have thought too much about it; I have the 8 plug distributor, will this change the answer? (The answer to distributor rpm, there are plenty of threads debating timing of dual spark plug firing.)
  6. The oil pump works and ignoring time honored advice, I'm fucking with it. Hopefully, prudence was gained by the advice provided on Ratsun. I applied a thin coat of Cerakote Microslick, to the oilpump "drum" inside and out, the inside "chamber" where the drum/cylinder is housed and the rotor. After drying, I assembled the front half of the pump, put it in a vice, put a standard screwdriver shaft into the drill, stuck it in the snout of the oil pump and began working the compound into the aluminum. What is the rpm of the oil pump in relation to the rpm of the motor? At high cordless drill speed, vibration is present. I will continue burnishing the pump, but wonder if perfect balance at high speed is a benefit to pursue. (I understand the internals of the pump are usually bathed in oil, but Microslick adverts, claim operation even without oil)
  7. My misguided thinking is/was a constant flow of fresh oil bathed over internals, provides cooling and lubrication, faster bathing, achieved with more flow/pressure, means cooler and fresher oil, which is positive. Understanding, many, many datsuns have operated many many miles with the oil "bathing" from stock pumps and this "upgrade" isn't necessary, but it shouldn't hurt. Do you know the answer to the clearance questions?
  8. Blueprinting an oil pump is not necessary. Using the 280sx oil pump in a Z24 is already plenty of upgrade. BUT, right now I have access to very precise tools and an oil pump. The rest of the pieces of my project are far away. I have vague recollection of a website that outlined the steps to blueprint a Z oil pump, but have been unable to locate it. There is a different website that lays out the process in general for oil pumps that has provided information. Blue print oil pump One item of this endeavor, which causes grief even before machine work: according to the website, to achieve increased performance and efficiency, "tightening clearances" is mentioned, along with "smoothing contact surfaces" I am concerned that both of the process recommended require "removing" material, even buffing with rouge will remove a small amount. Removing material will increase clearance between parts and increasing clearance seems to me the opposite of tightening clearance. To restate: I am investigating this because it is a possibility given present circumstances. Unless I am misunderstanding the information, it would seem that applying a layer of baked on ceramic heat dissipating or friction reducing coating, thereby adding material that can then be worn into a tighter tolerance, is a better option. There are companies that provide oil pump blueprinting and sell blueprinted oil pumps, but none, that I could find, offering ceramic coating oil pump internals. I am missing something.
  9. Perfect! I should look for a trans towing adapter, I need to brush up on proper hitch pro nouns. Too bad it is already sorted.
  10. WARNING attempting to maneuver a Nissan 720, solo, with chain and a lawn tractor is a NO GO. Learn from my ignorance and DO NOT ATTEMPT. I came within inches of severely damaging my truck and my JD 214. The plan was simple. I built a "car canopy" in the backyard, over a decade ago and over the years it has been used for everything from a party tent to a workshop. It has collapsed a few times as well. But, each time it failed, I put it back together with additional support and for the last few years, it has taken everything from extreme wind to snow load. However, as parties are not on the agenda anymore, the car canopy became a catch all for misc. bullshit. With the arrival of the 720 and the garage full of other bullshit projects. I, painfully, hired a guy, with a running truck, to haul the misc. bullshit to the dump. After a day or two icing my back, from loading the dump runs, and bitching about the "dump fees", I chained the tractor to the 720 to move it under the canopy. First, my lawn is lumpy and I had to give it some gas to get the truck to move. When the truck moved, it lurched forward and slammed into the back of the tractor. Luckily, avoiding injury (I am thankful God looks out for children and fools) I increased the distance of chain between the truck and the tractor. My backyard is not huge and it is on a corner. There is a, crumbling retaining wall that is level with the lawn and holds the lawn about 4 feet higher than the sidewalk. Second, some turning was required in the towing journey, the longer chain, instead of turning the truck, stretched the chain at a severe angle and it bound up. (Which any thinking person would have determined before the attempt) So, I backed up the tractor to release the tension and popped off the hitch, while I sat on the tractor. Apparently, there is a slight slope to the yard, because the truck started rolling toward the 4ft cliff. I don't know if any of you have experience with lawn tractors, but they are built for skinny people. Us, more than skinny people, get wedged between the steering wheel and the seat, which isn't a real problem - unless you need to get in or get out in a hurry. I freed my self and stopped the truck from falling to the sidewalk, over half of the rear wheels were air borne. There is a safety cut off than engages when you leave the tractor seat. For some reason the tractor popped and sputtered before stopping. The lawn tractor stoppled parallel to the retaining wall, with one of the small front tires off the retaining wall in mid air and half of one of the much bigger rear tires the same. I yelled for the wife to get in and hold the brake, while I moved to the front and pulled it off the ledge. Focusing on straight tractor pulls the truck is mostly under the canopy. I will finish getting it under today. Lessons learned: A solid connection, like a 3 point, seems a much better method for short tows that require control. Having a second person to steer and/or mind the brakes is required. Positive lessons learned: The little JD 214 has plenty of power to pull the truck
  11. Side marker lights on rockauto.com (for 1984) I picked up a set of the TYC. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1984,720+pickup,2.4l+l4,1210329,body+&+lamp+assembly,side+marker+lamp+assembly,11720 I think the 86 uses the same but double check to confirm
  12. To quote the philosopher Ministry, it's a love affair, mainly Jesus and my car. Ding a ling dang, my dang along ling long
  13. Thank you Ratsun elite, you provide good counsel. I can make it happen. Often I post here in hope that if I am way off base, someone will provide a "heads up", I have tow straps, ratchet straps, chains and whatnot. I really hate fighting with something only to later learn there is a simple and often better, method. Thanks again.
  14. I am ready to take my Datsun love to the next level.
  15. I had that same thought, and figured this kind of set up would be pull only. The only way to make it pushable, I can think of is put it on a triangle, like tow bar.
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