1983.5 4x4 - retirement truck

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You might want to remove a couple of the freeze plugs, if not all of them, and flush that block while the head is off. You can also stick a thick piece of wire (thicker than a coat hanger) down inside the coolant passages to help scrape away the scale. If you have an air compressor and a fine tip blower, that will help also, but it blows shit around, making a mess.

 

Clean the freeze plug holes with a wire brush on a drill (or pneumatic die grinder) or even scotch-brite, then use super weatherstrip adhesive when installing the new freeze plugs. If you have a piece of tubing laying around, this makes the best freeze plug installation tool. Or even a big socket. Do not hit the freeze plugs in the middle, as this will affect the OD of them.

[Madkaw]

I replaced these freeze plugs when I did the rebuild . Don’t remember the block being that rusty. 
At this point I’ll probably pull the block out and put it on a stand and monkey with it . 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Ok, you're probably good then.

[frankendat]

On 6/20/2022 at 4:16 PM, Lockleaf said:

 

Hey Frankendat,

 

The reason I want the z22e manifold is that it's fully multi point fuel injection designed.  Ports, plenum, throttle body, etc.

 

Usually a notched z24 would refer to a head not a manifold.

Thank you for setting me straight.

[Madkaw]

Here we go again . Time to put this together . # 3&4 has these specs on the piston tops from possible detonation? 
I ran a lot of timing , but think this is because of the coolant contamination causing detonation .

check out the rust ! I changed these plugs when I put this motor together the first time. Don’t remember seeing all this shit .

And this pic doesn’t show the first batch of rust I sucked out with the vac . Hoping I got it all and help clean up this block . Maybe a flush might work now - lol.

 

[datzenmike]

Dual plugs reduce the need for a lot of spark advance. Typically 3-5 degrees for the Z series engines. The combustion chamber design (hemi) the dual plugs, the low 8.25 compression and the cross flow manifolds make them very detonation resistant. Rusty blocks are caused by owners never using or never changing the anti freeze. Always a good idea to run 50/50 anti freeze and distilled water for the rust inhibitors it contains. Always top up with distilled water too.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Many people add in a bunch of base timing without ever checking the timing at full advance. 15 degrees at idle is a lot, but borderline ok as long as the total timing doesn't exceed 32 degrees.

 

Blocks get rusty. It's a fact. Finding a big chunk of rusty crap could mean that you just didn't get it all out the last time. Too bad they don't make clear freeze plugs.

[datzenmike]

Most Z24 mechanical advance begins at 650 idle so setting idle RPM is critical.

[Madkaw]

Here’s my timing with single side plugs . I had the max timing as high as 37 degrees WOT , but backed it off . Running reg gas

[datzenmike]

Dual plugs with need the same total advance at high RPMs you just won't need as much initial advance as with single plug set up.

[Madkaw]

Getting some stuff done . Engine is together enough to drop in after I put some belts on it . Checked to see if my hoist can get high enough. The 71C is attached and hoping it’s good . That will suck if it isn’t .

might just take it back off and get it rebuilt .

I still wanted to verify that this 71C would line up properly . It came out of 89? 

[Madkaw]

Need some help here guys with this later model 71C trans swap . It’s actually the shifter I need answers too. As you can see in the pics the shifter has 6? bolts with one that is larger . I’ve been told that the bigger hole housed a spring and ball? When I got the trans it didn’t have anything in the larger hole . The shifter seemed to shift fine. I’ve been searching but getting conflicting info . Any info would be great 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Could it be for a switch?

[Madkaw]

Ugh 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Bummer. DOes it leak? I've seen dozens of cracked manifolds that don't actually leak.

[Madkaw]

4 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Bummer. DOes it leak? I've seen dozens of cracked manifolds that don't actually leak.

Yeah- I’ve had a tick when the engine gets hot . You can see the discoloration 

[Madkaw]

Well my beautiful new China made exhaust manifold came in . Made me want to order a header . At least the holes would be round . And WTF is the 5 EGR bungs - jesh. 
I got out my air file and did a one hour blitz on cleaning this pig up . Thankfully cast iron is great to work . 80 grit does wonders . 
To make it even lighter I used some aluminum paint . 

[datzenmike]

On 8/2/2022 at 6:19 AM, Madkaw said:

Need some help here guys with this later model 71C trans swap . It’s actually the shifter I need answers too. As you can see in the pics the shifter has 6? bolts with one that is larger . I’ve been told that the bigger hole housed a spring and ball? When I got the trans it didn’t have anything in the larger hole . The shifter seemed to shift fine. I’ve been searching but getting conflicting info . Any info would be great 

 

Probably for positioning the shifter in the 3/4 gate when you let go of the shifter when in the left / right neutral gate. The 71B have a similar cam/spring loaded device. It enhances the second to third shift by gently pulling the shifter to the right once out of second. Less chance of money shifting into first. Likewise down shifting from fifth to fourth helps avoid hitting the reverse lock out.

[datzenmike]

2 hours ago, Madkaw said:

Well my beautiful new China made exhaust manifold came in . Made me want to order a header . At least the holes would be round . And WTF is the 5 EGR bungs - jesh. 
I got out my air file and did a one hour blitz on cleaning this pig up . Thankfully cast iron is great to work . 80 grit does wonders . 
To make it even lighter I used some aluminum paint . 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The front two are for the AIS (air injection system) generally, 2wd tend to use one, 4x4 use 2. The large one down by the exhaust outlets is for the O² sensor on the Z24i engine and California feedback carburetor engines. The bottom of the two rear facing bungs is the EGR.  The top I don't know maybe the EGR pipe was changed to a new location. This manifold was made to fit all years and sizes of Z series engines so there is bound to be unused 'extras' you don't need.

[Madkaw]

9 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

The front two are for the AIS (air injection system) generally, 2wd tend to use one, 4x4 use 2. The large one down by the exhaust outlets is for the O² sensor on the Z24i engine and California feedback carburetor engines. The bottom of the two rear facing bungs is the EGR.  The top I don't know maybe the EGR pipe was changed to a new location. This manifold was made to fit all years and sizes of Z series engines so there is bound to be unused 'extras' you don't need.

I won’t be using any of them - lol

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

14 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Probably for positioning the shifter in the 3/4 gate when you let go of the shifter when in the left / right neutral gate. The 71B have a similar cam/spring loaded device. It enhances the second to third shift by gently pulling the shifter to the right once out of second. Less chance of money shifting into first. Likewise down shifting from fifth to fourth helps avoid hitting the reverse lock out.

Looking at other 71C transmissions, I could not find any with that large threaded hole, which begs the question - how do they return to center?

[Madkaw]

Well I dropped it in . My adapter plate I made won’t work. No room for the bolts . I read it needed to be 1/2” to raise the trans by that much - but that would slam the trans into the tunnel. So I’m going with a 1/4” .
My DS is 2” too short . I had shortened the DS based on trans being 4” longer - but that wasn’t the case I guess . So now I will have to have it lengthened . 
At least it’s close enough to use my console. I could slide the tunnel cover plate back to center it .

Maybe the s13 is different than the d21 ad far as shifter location 

[bottomwatcher]

On your adapter plate when it raises the trans you need to make spacers that go between the crossmember and the frame. This allows the trans to sit in the stock position. 

[Madkaw]

2 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

On your adapter plate when it raises the trans you need to make spacers that go between the crossmember and the frame. This allows the trans to sit in the stock position. 

My friend Andy who made the adapter plate for me , said the same thing . 
so you have done this swap ?

 

[datzenmike]

17 hours ago, Madkaw said:

 

Maybe the s13 is different than the d21 ad far as shifter location 

 

 

 

Damn straight it's different.

 

S13 top (33.25" to shifter and 35' overall) D21 Hardbody below...