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1983.5 4x4 - retirement truck


Madkaw

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Damn straight it's different.

 

S13 top (33.25" to shifter and 35' overall) D21 Hardbody below...

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So everything I read about this swap was focused on the s13 I guess . Looks like the S13 would have my DS fit better , but I would need the longer console . 

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Took my shortened DS back to the machinist and had them add back 2” . I now have a 250$ DS that’s only about 12” long - lol. I guess I could have waited until I installed the trans to make the DS, but i was trying to  be proactive and have everything ready . I obviously have the truck 71C trans which is shorter than the car 71C - thus a DS that ended up too short. 
I plan on bending and or cutting and welding the shifter to make it work . It isn’t too far off for me to use

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For anyone else that does this swap- here’s a pic of the driveshaft needed. This is for a D21 -71C . 
I plan on cutting and welding a new shifter out of the d21 shifter so it will work with the stock console and leather boot . 

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17 minutes ago, Madkaw said:

For anyone else that does this swap- here’s a pic of the driveshaft needed. This is for a D21 -71C . 
I plan on cutting and welding a new shifter out of the d21 shifter so it will work with the stock console and leather boot . 

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You have the short console. I have the long one and it doesn't fit very well either. I left the stick stock. Works fine but looks like ass.

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8 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

You have the short console. I have the long one and it doesn't fit very well either. I left the stick stock. Works fine but looks like ass.

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It’s weird because your shifter seems to be way forward of where mine sits . I bet mine would fit almost perfect in a long console . Though mine doesn’t fit perfectly through the trans tunnel . I was able to slide the sheet metal piece - the piece that holds the floor boot- back and still be covering the tunnel . I’ll try and take a pic . Maybe I should pick up and ling console and try it 

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Well Covid has hit so I’m quarantined to the garage 🙂 . Hoping my wife doesn’t get it .

 

Decided to do an electric fan swap while everything is apart . I installed an L engine pump . Had to modify bracket so it would sit flat against the pump . Need to find a KA pulley now and decide on a fan . I’m going to use some OEM fan from the JY . I will settle for whatever fits the best . My Megasquirt can run the fan , so I don’t need any controls for it . Still playing with shifter options and how to seal everything up . I made another trans tunnel cover plate and now need to decide which boot to use . The C series has a boot just for the shifter to trans . 

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Well this venture went off the rails for weeks . Got my engine together and couldn’t get it started for weeks . Went through all the mechanical stuff including reloading the timing chain just to verify timing - ugh , and then it was electrical and ecu . In the end it was a matter of adding a resistor to the right spot .

Oh well , on to finishing the d21-5 speed swap . 
This truck is going to kill me . 

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Edited by Madkaw
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May have to change "retirement truck" to full time job truck. Looks good and is a slightly but very slightly better investment than Hookers and Blow. You may have to point out that factoid to the Wife now and then. Keep it up, if it was easy everybody would do it and it is cool to see this approach. You have a fan club here that I am confident reaches at least the double digit mark.

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On 9/21/2022 at 6:44 AM, bottomwatcher said:

May have to change "retirement truck" to full time job truck. Looks good and is a slightly but very slightly better investment than Hookers and Blow. You may have to point out that factoid to the Wife now and then. Keep it up, if it was easy everybody would do it and it is cool to see this approach. You have a fan club here that I am confident reaches at least the double digit mark.

It has been full-time and that leaves no time for my Z or my customers Z.

Not sure why this thread has gotten so much traction - but that’s cool. 

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Well I gambled and it paid off . This trans shifts really well and no noises!!!!! We will see about leaks - lol.

The shifter went through some massage therapy - cutoff wheel, welder, sander , too make it fit with the shorty console . I think the leather boot will work . I made a new floor cover plate so I could move the rubber boot . So I have the rubber boot that fits over the shifter mechanism( 71C requires a boot , then I have the factory floor boot in my new plate . I actually had a 4” rubber boot laying around from some project that worked really well .

I was all set to do some tuning today but realized my wideband shit me - of course .

I did manage to get the engine to idle well enough and it drove around the block too, but I noticed that my fuel pressure needed adjustment and that through everything in the tune out of wack . I think I can tune it pretty well without the sensor , but wouldn’t even try that on my Z 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well it’s finally back together . Glad I was able to keep my short console . The altered shifter works great .  I used a rubber boot that was smaller then the original . This helped it slip under the console . I did have to trim the console some to facilitate sliding it over the shifter This d21 trans is the bomb ! I think I’ll find one for the Z .

Finally tuning on the new head with the Mikuni cam .  Not a large difference for sure, but not done tuning yet . Valve train seems noisier but I need to check clearances after I get a few miles on it . 
 

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8 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

So let's see your transmission mount adapter system.

It’s not much. Just an aluminum 1/2” plate machined for the offset mount .

I used spacers at the crossmember to make up the distance 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well it’s been about a month so it’s time for something else to break . All my parking lights and instrument lights went out .

I had an extra combo switch but for the 84-85 . I was able at least plug it in enough to see my parking lights did work with that switch . I contacted a guy on FB that rebuilds the OEM units and that’s the route I’m going . This unit that just went bad was cobbled together using a non -tilt units guts in a tilt casing . It worked for quite a while actually , but finally gave me issues . 
 

The truck is doing well but not sure I’m that impressed the cam . Can’t say I’m feeling much improvement . The truck did quite well with the stock cam . 
I think the trans rear seal leaks . I’m pretty sure I put a seal in there :0 

It only spot fluid when the truck is parked front pointer uphill on my driveway . Still happy with the trans . Shifter is so much better . Might need a little more throw on the clutch slave . When it’s cold it’s tough going in gear when first started . 
 

I had to rip into my nice paint job . Had a zit the size of a half dollar that bubbled on the bedside over the wheel . Salt on the roads last winter screwed this truck up . I did a lot of driving in it too . So I popped the pimple and stared doing the body work . I had a hole the size of a quarter when I was done digging out the bad stuff . Stuffed some duraglass in the hole and pressed on . Never did get it painted though . I think I’ll take it back to the body shop for paint . Actually had some brown latex house paint laying around and brushed on some protection . It blends well - lol

Think I’ll start rebuilding another block to get ready for turbo conversion . I want to have a short block ready to go for when I blow this motor up. I already think I have a ring slap or something that ticks when it gets hot . 

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  • 2 months later...

Madkaw, I continue to use your thread for reference--Thank you--and have been looking for a deal on Nissan 300zx seats. Like you mentioned, the red ones are cheaper. I do not have experience "dying", but your dye job (My '84 is the same color scheme) looks great. I would have not have thought tan would cover red. Would you elaborate on the products and process? Thanks again.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/4/2023 at 5:45 PM, frankendat said:

Madkaw, I continue to use your thread for reference--Thank you--and have been looking for a deal on Nissan 300zx seats. Like you mentioned, the red ones are cheaper. I do not have experience "dying", but your dye job (My '84 is the same color scheme) looks great. I would have not have thought tan would cover red. Would you elaborate on the products and process? Thanks again.


Honestly the seats haven’t held up well with the dye/paint . I had the color mixed at a paint shop and they were surprised it was wearing off . Maybe I didn’t put enough on . Prep is always important and I thought I did it properly . I might have needed more adhesion promoters . I washed the seats down with mild soap . I then wiped them down with alcohol . There’s a vinyl adhesion promoter you spray on to help the first coat stick . With the plastic stuff it’s basically acetone that helps the paint melt into the plastic . The vinyl uses a different chemical . I think lacquer thinner would work because it cleans old vinyl the best - but could cause some fading . They sell the vinyl adhesive promoter spray in paint stores in a rattle can .

Ive learned that even the best prep and paint on plastic parts is hard to change colors . It’s hard to beat the original plastic dye . I’ve changed blue parts to tan , but if it’s a wear item - like a door pull- it will wear enough to see original color .

Not saying I do everything right - always learning 

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