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Draker's 1972 1200 Sedan - "The Pickle"


Draker

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4 minutes ago, hobospyder said:

I think you just need to put in an oversized stereo system to take up the extra

 

And vibrate your car apart

 

I do have some plans for a stereo but nothing big enough to make a difference.

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I still need to either buy or find some knobs. I was planning to use the stock knobs but there not the same size. Still tracking down a solution. I know I can buy them. But stock would be better.

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I just breezed through your thread and I noticed a lot of 3D printed parts. I have a 3D printer that I haven't gotten working yet. Bought it with the hopes that my daugther would be interested. She's not... I can totally see using it daily to make hard to find plastic interior parts, much like you've done.

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8 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Nice. I just bought a Retro-Sound unit for a client's resto-mod project. Not super impressed, but I could change my mind after it gets installed. The brackets are kinda mickey mouse.

Yeah, the mounts are a bit generic. I had to modify them slightly to get them to work in this configuration. I haven't actually tested the sound of the radio, so I can't speak to that yet. Otherwise it fit the need. old school shaft style radio, bluetooth, aux input, sub outputs.

 

 

4 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I just breezed through your thread and I noticed a lot of 3D printed parts. I have a 3D printer that I haven't gotten working yet. Bought it with the hopes that my daugther would be interested. She's not... I can totally see using it daily to make hard to find plastic interior parts, much like you've done.

Yeah 3d printers are great for these odd parts. They can be a bit finicky, but for the price it's an awesome tool to have.

 

In my 69 510 thread I printed a steering column mounted gauge cluster pod, this was a lot of fun!

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  • 1 month later...

I relocated some of the wiring, then re-wrapped and installed it. Everything is working as expected but I still need to sort the mini alternator. For now I swapped in my old alternator in the relocated spot.

 

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Im slowing redoing the stereo. I ran all the wires so I can button up the dash. Then I got into a bit of a tangent and designed some speaker mounts. Then mounted them.


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Edited by Draker
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On 3/6/2022 at 12:23 AM, Draker said:

Ended up with the Koni’s. They fit just fine but you need to install a bushing in the rubber isolator. I just used the ones from the old KYB’s

 




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This isn't the best. The shock absorber should be mounted to the leaf spring or the plate under it. This way no matter how tall a block you put in the distance between spring and body remains the same as only the axle moves up when a spacer is added.. The way pictured has shortened the shock travel by the thickness of the spacer that was added. 

 

I realize the spring perch on the axle is the stock location and correcting this will be a bother but just pointing this out. You are what? 3"?? closer to bottoming the shock out on a surprise speed bump, and trust me there is always something that catches you by surprise while driving. 

 

(those U bolt ends could also be trimmed) Nice work BTW

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On 3/6/2022 at 2:23 AM, Draker said:

Ended up with the Koni’s. They fit just fine but you need to install a bushing in the rubber isolator. I just used the ones from the old KYB’s

 

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Mike, I believe this photo shows he used a shorter stroke shock to compensate for that "problem". 👍

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Ahh. Now there is less extension or axle drop before bottoming out the other way. Well if he's used a shorter shock he's at least aware.... carry on.

 

 

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Have not been 'de smogged' yet either. See the screw with spring just above the left dome? it interconnects the carbs and has a braided hose out to the air filter. We didn't get the dual Hitachi's so not much is known about it's function. It was discussed on The Realm and best guess is that it's an adjustable air bleed to tune the idle mixture. They suggested removal and triangular aluminum covers put on, typical 'smog shit' mentality, but I would think you could just close them or use them. I have a set from an L16/18 SSS.

 

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The little red capped tube is the vacuum advance.

 

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Does this have water cooled intake runners???? I don't think the A series used this on their intakes. Easy enough to drill the two holes in the head to match up. The outlet from the intake has to connect to the lower rad hose inlet to the water pump.

 

L16/18 SSS  SUs didn't like heat and the intakes were water cooled and even were heat shielded so likely these are too.

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4 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

Or... Just hear me out here... Just bolt them on and see what happens?  😁

 

Yeah, maybe in the fall when I don't need the car any more. The weber runs perfect and I don't want to risk not being able to hit the upcoming car shows. 🙂

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

This isn't the best. The shock absorber should be mounted to the leaf spring or the plate under it. This way no matter how tall a block you put in the distance between spring and body remains the same as only the axle moves up when a spacer is added.. The way pictured has shortened the shock travel by the thickness of the spacer that was added. 

 

I realize the spring perch on the axle is the stock location and correcting this will be a bother but just pointing this out. You are what? 3"?? closer to bottoming the shock out on a surprise speed bump, and trust me there is always something that catches you by surprise while driving. 

 

(those U bolt ends could also be trimmed) Nice work BTW

 

From memeory, I believe they are 2" blocks. Or some metric unit around 2". They are aussie units.
 

3 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

Mike, I believe this photo shows he used a shorter stroke shock to compensate for that "problem". 👍

 

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Ahh. Now there is less extension or axle drop before bottoming out the other way. Well if he's used a shorter shock he's at least aware.... carry on.



Correct, I went with a shorter shock which is closer to the coupe shock.

Stock Sedan:
Stroke: 167mm

Max:     506mm

Min:      339mm

Koni 80-1551 (26-2012) 
Stroke: 145mm
Max: 415mm 
Min: 270mm 

Difference:

Stroke: 22mm

Max: 91mm

Min: 69mm (2.4")

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