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Draker's 1972 1200 Sedan - "The Pickle"


Draker

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Alright, got most of the electronics working again. I got it running tonight. Next is getting the alternator wired and charging. Just a few other small circuits to get working again. Horn, tach, dome light. Then buy a replacement radio. 

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Got the new belt, too long. First belt was a 3VX375 (too short), second was a 3VX400 (too long). I found a belt locally, 3L390. It's a good fit.. however after further review it's for a lawn mower. 3-17 horsepower. So..  not that this A series is much over 17hp.. I'm guessing I should run this belt? It doesn't seem nearly as durable.

 

Anyone got a part number for a 3/8" x 39" belt? I'm on the hunt.

 

Nevermind, I found one on Amazon. 3VX390, good year belt. As they say, 4th times a charm.

Edited by Draker
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Got the new belt, it fits. It’s actually on the longer side. 38” would be better but meh. The other thing is the alternator pulley is for a 1/2” wide belt.  This new belt bottoms out and given it’s notched on the bottom, it made some noise. I tried swapping pulleys but they are different to the point they won’t swap. So I just sanded down the back of the belt to lower the profile. Seems like it worked but may need more adjustments.

 

Second, I’ve got the voltage regulator bypassed at the plug. The alternator is putting out 14.9 volts. Seems about .6 volts too much. It makes no difference if the t-plug is connected or not. 
 

For reference this is a “one wire” denso mini alternator that @datsunfreak recommended. 

 

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while fiddling with the alternator I found the factory smoke. I forgot to disconnect the battery the day before and the power wire found ground. Then  the fusible link blew. I’m glad I took the time to install a fusible link with the new harness. It saved my bacon here. Bacon = wires. 
 

I didn’t have a replacement fusible link, but I have one on order. I built this new link with a 40amp maxi fuse, good enough for now and easier to replace.

 

i added more heat shrink to ensure the fuse can’t come loose.  (Not pictured)
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EB0C79A3-5474-411A-95B6-628CFC4C6DC2.jpg
 

Edited by Draker
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On 3/6/2022 at 3:23 AM, Draker said:

Ended up with the Koni’s. They fit just fine but you need to install a bushing in the rubber isolator. I just used the ones from the old KYB’s


09F66BD0-9E98-43AE-9F95-1DE9B7F109CE.jpg

 

Rear wheel has a nice flat spot.

 

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This thread has me working on the green coupe. 

 

Dude, you made me feel guilty about neglecting it. 

 

BTW, where did you get your LED dash bulbs? Looks good in the pic.

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1 hour ago, KELMO said:

This thread has me working on the green coupe. 

 

Dude, you made me feel guilty about neglecting it. 

 

BTW, where did you get your LED dash bulbs? Looks good in the pic.

 

I got them on Amazon. I'll dig up the links.

 

Partsam T10 194 168 Dash Instrument White LED Light Bulbs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KT1BH1Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Yoper BA9S 53 57 1895 64111 LED Light Bulb

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R9VW9HY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Edited by Draker
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On 3/15/2022 at 11:24 PM, Draker said:

Second, I’ve got the voltage regulator bypassed at the plug. The alternator is putting out 14.9 volts. Seems about .6 volts too much. It makes no difference if the t-plug is connected or not. 
 

For reference this is a “one wire” denso mini alternator that @datsunfreak recommended.

 

 

Do you have a wire straight from the alternator to the battery (or starter)? Also, known to be good battery? Those alternators overcharging usually means they aren't able to sense the battery load well enough (hence the direct wire), or a bad cell in the battery. 

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On 3/15/2022 at 11:24 PM, Draker said:

The alternator is putting out 14.9 volts. Seems about .6 volts too much. It makes no difference if the t-plug is connected or not. 

 

And yes, all of mine charged at 14.2-14.3.

 

Side question: what was the rated amperage on the one you got? I notice every few years they seem to up it. My first was 45, second two were rated at 55, Tim's said 65, and some of them on ebay now say 75 or 85. 

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10 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

 

Do you have a wire straight from the alternator to the battery (or starter)? Also, known to be good battery? Those alternators overcharging usually means they aren't able to sense the battery load well enough (hence the direct wire), or a bad cell in the battery. 

 

Good point and that got me thinking... Before it was connected through a OEM green fusible link. Alternator -> Fusible Link -> Starter -> Battery. Then I fried the fusible link and replaced it with a maxi fuse. I checked it again with this configuration, still nearly 15v.

 

I just wired a thick gauge wire directly from the alternator to the starter, checked again. No change. I then swapped the battery out for another, and still the same.

 

Great suggestion, but no dice.

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10 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

And yes, all of mine charged at 14.2-14.3.

 

Side question: what was the rated amperage on the one you got? I notice every few years they seem to up it. My first was 45, second two were rated at 55, Tim's said 65, and some of them on ebay now say 75 or 85. 

 

Based on our conversation, I'm guessing I got the 55amp version. I bought it so long ago, I can't find the ebay history anymore. I'll see if I can find old invoices.. hard to say. I may have to pull it off and go have it tested. Maybe it's just bad?

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11 hours ago, Draker said:

Maybe it's just bad?

 

It is possible the regulator has a defect and can't sense the battery load? 

 

11 hours ago, Draker said:

I just wired a thick gauge wire directly from the alternator to the starter, checked again. No change. I then swapped the battery out for another, and still the same.

 

Especially knowing this.

 

FYI, if you have the ability to disassemble and repair an alternator, these regulators are available by themselves. And you could up the amperage at the same time?

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On 3/18/2022 at 6:57 AM, datsunfreak said:

 

It is possible the regulator has a defect and can't sense the battery load? 

 

 

Especially knowing this.

 

FYI, if you have the ability to disassemble and repair an alternator, these regulators are available by themselves. And you could up the amperage at the same time?


Got it tested, they said it passed.. but it was putting out 15.3v. 
 

Looks like I’m replacing the regulator. 

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8 hours ago, Draker said:


Got it tested, they said it passed.. but it was putting out 15.3v. 
 

Looks like I’m replacing the regulator. 


replacement regulators appear to be 14.9v at least the ones I found on eBay. Wtf. Perhaps this is what I have?

 

 

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24 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

 

Possibly... That is a bit high though...

 

At least your headlights will be bright.  😁

 I’ve got LEDs already lol.

 

I messaged a seller on eBay that might have a 14.6v regulator.

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