MikeRL411 Posted August 29, 2017 Report Share Posted August 29, 2017 Those of us who use or want to use Rotella should go to www.rotella.com/rebate . 1 Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted September 9, 2017 Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 Gone. Switched to Delo as it is $1 less 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2017 Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 This only applies to the T5 and T6 heavy duty oils. I think the 'old' Rotella T oil I used to buy is now labeled Rotella T4. This is the 15w40 I prefer. T5* is a synthetic 'blend' one (of two) marked FA4 which is a new category of low viscosity fuel saving oils. I don't know how well they work on or protect older engines. The other is just a synthetic 'blend'. T6* is full synthetic (5W30) and comes in two forms. With one an extreme temperature oil.(5W40) *I'm not a fan of synthetic oils myself. If I had a newer turbo engine maybe. If you look after your stock engine and change the oil and filter you don't really need this over protection. 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted September 9, 2017 Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 Conventional oil viscosity changes drastically with breakdown, whereas synthetic holds up much better and viscosity remains more consistent. Especially in cold climates this is important 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2017 Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 Yes it does have advantages if the conditions warrant the extreme expense. If regular dinosaur oil is changed at the recommended times this isn't a problem. I ran the 15w40 last winter (first winter driving in my 710 ever) and noticed no difference cranking and starting, or driving that the old 10W30 from decades ago. But it only got to about 20F. I primarily drive for a few months around the Canby trip. It does see over 100F in eastern Washington. For the mileage we're talking I can change it every 2 years. About every 3-4K miles which is about half the recommended amount. Next spring it's due. It's never black, barely dark brown because of long trips. Tried synthetic only once on my 620. It began leaking out of the engine it was so thin/slippery. The cost was prohibitive for no tangible advantages. It's not overly hot or cold here at barely 20F to 95F. 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted September 9, 2017 Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 The nice thing about the rotella is that it has a zinc additive, so it's great for break in oil, especially if you have cast iron dissy gear and cast iron cam, like in ford HO motor, as I had in the Datstang. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2017 Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 The high ZDDP levels are great all the time. I should imagine wear like this is most likely from the newer formula oils with little to no ZDDP in them. Imagine what the cam lobe looks like!!! This engine (L series) was developed in the mid '60s for the oil of it's day. Oil makers have moved on and don't give a shit about you. Don't believe what they may say about ZDDP levels being backwards compatible... they don't drive Datsuns. Research what ZDDP does and how critical it is for tappet cams and make an informed decision about the oil you use. 3 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted September 9, 2017 Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 Yes it does have advantages if the conditions warrant the extreme expense. If regular dinosaur oil is changed at the recommended times this isn't a problem. I ran the 15w40 last winter (first winter driving in my 710 ever) and noticed no difference cranking and starting, or driving that the old 10W30 from decades ago. But it only got to about 20F. I primarily drive for a few months around the Canby trip. It does see over 100F in eastern Washington. For the mileage we're talking I can change it every 2 years. About every 3-4K miles which is about half the recommended amount. Next spring it's due. It's never black, barely dark brown because of long trips. Tried synthetic only once on my 620. It began leaking out of the engine it was so thin/slippery. The cost was prohibitive for no tangible advantages. It's not overly hot or cold here at barely 20F to 95F. syn is like $10 more per change...like $600 over the life of your engine 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2017 Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 Just doesn't work for me. 1 Quote Link to comment
505plus5 Posted September 9, 2017 Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 Recommended oil for a '79 L20B with 60K original miles, in the So. Cal. Low Desert area, anyone????? :) :) You know what? Make that a 72 L16 90K 78 L24 100K 79 L20B 60K . . . any1? :) 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 10, 2017 Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 Did you read this thread? When they came out 10W30 would have done for your new Datsuns, but engines are made differently these days. None are made without roller cams, so to reduce tail pipe emissions of zinc, the zinc anti scuff additive ZDDP has and still is, slowly being fazed out. The level in today's oil is (well I think) dangerously low for tappet cams. I don't know if full synthetic oil is able to prevent scuffing over the long run (maybe) and I doubt it contains any ZDDP so??? roll the dice. Some racing oils still have high levels and diesel oils maintain the same high(er) levels as before. Type ZDDP into google and start reading. 1 Quote Link to comment
505plus5 Posted September 10, 2017 Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 I read from the top, DM. But, as mentioned, the oils' qualities are changing. By that, I suppose 10W30 back then, isn't the same quality 10W30 now. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 10, 2017 Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 Correct. The oil may be better but the anti scuff additive ZDDP is much less because it's not needed in new engines. 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 10, 2017 Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 Very simply, old engines need old (formula) oils. I use Valvoline VR-1 racing oil. Last time I got some, I just used Amazon to get it. 2 Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted September 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 This only applies to the T5 and T6 heavy duty oils. I think the 'old' Rotella T oil I used to buy is now labeled Rotella T4. This is the 15w40 I prefer. T5* is a synthetic 'blend' one (of two) marked FA4 which is a new category of low viscosity fuel saving oils. I don't know how well they work on or protect older engines. The other is just a synthetic 'blend'. T6* is full synthetic (5W30) and comes in two forms. With one an extreme temperature oil.(5W40) *I'm not a fan of synthetic oils myself. If I had a newer turbo engine maybe. If you look after your stock engine and change the oil and filter you don't really need this over protection. "Synthetic" really means that it is formulated [by unknown and proprietary means] from natural gas! Lord knows how much Hydro Flouric acid is used to make this "improved" fluid! Reference the recent Torrance CA refinery disasters! 2 Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted September 10, 2017 Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 Recommended oil for a '79 L20B with 60K original miles, in the So. Cal. Low Desert area, anyone????? :) :) You know what? Make that a 72 L16 90K 78 L24 100K 79 L20B 60K . . . any1? :) i use Valvoline vr1 race oil still has a high content of zinc i am told the 15/40 diesel oils also run high zinc content i used to run castrol but most oils including castrol have such reduced amount of zinc it will ruin your rockers and other parts as well 1 Quote Link to comment
505plus5 Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 Hmmm... good topic. Important, I'd say. Very! 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 I think Castrol has a 'racing' oil also. 1 Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 i am told the 15/40 diesel oils also run high zinc content Been using them since break in. Last valve adjustment everything still looks new. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Has anyone used the royal purple? I currently have there break in fluid in my engine.... I plan to follow it up with the hp oil.. there regular synthetic is not the same as this..... Both the break in and hp oil have high zinc and phosphorus, and claim to be excellent for flat tappet cams... 1 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Very simply, old engines need old (formula) oils. I use Valvoline VR-1 racing oil. Last time I got some, I just used Amazon to get it. This is what I will keep using on a new :) L24. Anywhere else than Amazon? Synthetic more prone to leaking by older style seals and gaskets I'm convinced Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 You might try independent auto parts stores, but there is a chance the high ZDDP oils are not available in California auto parts stores. 1 Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 You could always buy a bottle of ZDDP oil additive. 1 bottle every 4-5 quarts. 9.95$ US. http://davidnavone.com/product/zddplus/ 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 An option... Or oil that has it. Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 This is what I will keep using on a new :) L24. Anywhere else than Amazon? Synthetic more prone to leaking by older style seals and gaskets I'm convinced i get the vr1 at carquest auto parts 1 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.