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tore down my engine today


dat521gatherer

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looky looky what i found. i'm sure some of you have seen worse but it's fair to say this was still running when i removed it a few months ago. smoked like a bitch but ran. i think who ever rebuilt it last didn't do it right. the pistons were wobbling back and forth with my finger. the rings were smoked and the skirt on #3 was in the bottom of the pan in a million pieces. look at those deposits. i had a anti plug fouler on #4. these are ok to put back in right?:rolleyes:

 

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Did you rotate those rings? They shouldn't line up like that. What's the history on that motor? Was it run with a turbo???

 

Piston to bore clearance for an L20B is 0.010" to 0.018" that's 10 to 18 thou!! You wouldn't feel any slop even without the rings on them. Probably honed a worn out block and used old pistons. Pistons rattled around and broke the skirt. Blow by would erode the piston tops and the heat would fry the rings even more.

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this was the engine that came in my 71 521 i bought 2 years ago. considering the block was green i presume it had a rebuild along the way.. yeah i turned the rings around a bit playing a little. well i think i found out why the blow by was coming out of the valve cover like a exhaust pipe. if i didn't have that rubber hose running down under the truck it would have killed me.

 

it's in the scrap pile now. how do i get the rods off the pistons? i dont see any snap rings or keepers or anything. they look pressed. ok i see it now the fsw says to use a anbor press.

Edited by dat521gatherer
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I learned so much tearing down and building my LZ2.1. If you're going to do a complete tear down anyway, you may want to consider building a hybrid/frankenmotor. Do some research on the mixing possibilities (via the jason gray engine spec sheets), hunt around on eBay for a good deal on pistons, shop around for a crank... and for a few hundred bucks, you can build an engine to your own specifications.

 

My LZ2.1 was my first engine build, and I've been very happy with it.

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"i had a anti plug fouler on #4"

 

can I ask, what is anti plug fouler?

 

Also, would it not make sense to use flat top pistons in this motor to increase compression ratio?

Edited by zed
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Anti plug fouler is basically a spacer for the spark plug. It keeps the electrode out of the oil bath of a combustion chamber when your motor is on it's last legs. If your running one, you better be planning your next motor. ;)

 

They have a tendency to melt with a hotter burning plug. (That was an interesting day on the side of the freeway)

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Autosport in Seattle does my motors when installing pistons.

Heat it up and press it on.

 

as with L16 sometimes its not worth putting flattops on. Esp if there are bigger block to get nearly FREE. But I did get soem flatops for my L16 but ended up putting a L20 U67 head so any comp increase was lost by putting a head with larger cc chambers. But it did have the bigger valves and intake ports compared to a stock L16 210 casting head.

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