My 1971 521

[datzenmike]

Later 610s and 710s had 60 amp alternators.

[d.p]

Does anyone know the size of the bung needed for an a/f gauge? Since I am going to get my exhaust done I might as well have them weld a bung for me.  And how far down the exhaust should it go?

[mrbigtanker]

2 hours ago, d.p said:

Does anyone know the size of the bung needed for an a/f gauge? Since I am going to get my exhaust done I might as well have them weld a bung for me.  And how far down the exhaust should it go?

Most exhaust shops will have bungs ready to weld it in. 

[d.p]

They are M18x1.5 if anyone was wondering. 

[d.p]

While I await another alternator I am trying to test the wiring. I replaced the T connector with a new one.  
 

White/black stripe > top (green)

yellow(or white?) > bottom (yellow)

I have power to the bigger yellow wire going to alt with the key off/on (one that goes to big lug on starter).  
 

I have power to the bottom of the T connector with the key on/off.  
 

The IGN light will come on if I put my test light in the top of the T connector with the key on. 

 

I have power to the far right 4 fuses with the key OFF. Key ON I have power to all of them. 
 

what any of this means I have no idea.  
 

 

[d.p]

New T connector.  

[mainer311]

Did the high heat ever come down for you? This 2L runs significantly hotter than the 1.6 like you noticed as well.

[d.p]

9 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

Did the high heat ever come down for you? This 2L runs significantly hotter than the 1.6 like you noticed as well.

yeah only because I put at 160 thermostat with a hole in it.  Now it stays to the left of that break in the temp gauge whereas with the 180 it was to the right.  

[d.p]

This 54mm one with a 1/8” hole:

 

Gates 33006S Premium Engine Coolant Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q0WZJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VZ5FNGS992VE99JSQ5MA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

[mainer311]

Thanks. Mine was almost to the red line today. My IR temp gun says I’m still safe though, so maybe the new temp sender I bought isn’t quite right. I’ll probably get a real water temp gauge soon.

Edited May 1, 2021 by mainer311

[datzenmike]

Can't remember what thermostat housing you have but all L20Bs came with a by-pass outlet running down to the lower radiator inlet hose. They don't need the hole in the thermostat.

 

Run it with 180F thermostat, L20Bs run hot. That's why they have a return line. Shoot with IR gun so you know you're ok regardless what the gauge needle points to.

[d.p]

3 hours ago, d.p said:

While I await another alternator I am trying to test the wiring. I replaced the T connector with a new one.  
 

White/black stripe > top (green)

yellow(or white?) > bottom (yellow)

I have power to the bigger yellow wire going to alt with the key off/on (one that goes to big lug on starter).  
 

I have power to the bottom of the T connector with the key on/off.  
 

The IGN light will come on if I put my test light in the top of the T connector with the key on. 

 

I have power to the far right 4 fuses with the key OFF. Key ON I have power to all of them. 
 

what any of this means I have no idea.  
 

 

can anyone help me with this? Is my wiring sound? 

[datzenmike]

This was converted to internal regulated alternator, yes?

 

 

Yellow goes to the top of the T. It should have 12v from the battery at all times.

 

 

White/Black stripe goes to the bottom of the T. If unplugged and grounded with the ignition on the RED charge light should light up.

[d.p]

4 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

This was converted to internal regulated alternator, yes?

Yellow goes to the top of the T. It should have 12v from the battery at all times.

White/Black stripe goes to the bottom of the T. If unplugged and grounded with the ignition on the RED charge light should light up.

 

Yes to IR with a jumper.  

 

You are right and I was wrong, YELLOW is on the top (Green wire in my pic) and White/Black goes to the bottom (yellow wire in my pic).  Green(originally yellow) has 12V all the time and the white/black when grounded turns the CHARGE light on with the key to ON.    

 

So having said all that is my wiring sound?  

[datzenmike]

As far as the T plug it seems so. Did you have them reversed?

[d.p]

Just now, datzenmike said:

As far as the T plug it seems so. Did you have them reversed?

 

No man,  It was  always Yellow on top, Black/.white on the bottom.    I just typed it wrong in my original post.  

 

But I have power to the yellow wire that goes to the BATT terminal on the alternator, and the only thing left is the ground.  So other than what what could be wrong with the wiring that would cause me all these problems with alternators?  

[datzenmike]

Alternator has a Black wire to the case for ground?

 

The jumper you made for converting to IR. Has one of the pins dislodged and pushed out when you pushed the connector together?

 

 

 

Next time it stops charging, pull the plug and ground the White/Black wire and see if the charge light come on when you turn the ignition on.

 

Use a meter or test lamp on the Yellow wire and see if it has 12v on it.

 

 

[d.p]

1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

Alternator has a Black wire to the case for ground?

 

The jumper you made for converting to IR. Has one of the pins dislodged and pushed out when you pushed the connector together?

 

Next time it stops charging, pull the plug and ground the White/Black wire and see if the charge light come on when you turn the ignition on.

 

Use a meter or test lamp on the Yellow wire and see if it has 12v on it.

 

 

Yes to black wire to case for ground.

 

I dont know will have to look.

 

There is no alternator installed right now, there wasn't when I tested all this either.  If I ground that wire the with the KEY ON the charge light comes on.  

 

I have a constant 12V to the yellow wire. 

[datzenmike]

I guess drive till it fails then do those two test again. It is either an intermittent problem and all those alternators are good, or all those alternators have an intermittent problem.

 

 

[mainer311]

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Can't remember what thermostat housing you have but all L20Bs came with a by-pass outlet running down to the lower radiator inlet hose. They don't need the hole in the thermostat.

 

Run it with 180F thermostat, L20Bs run hot. That's why they have a return line. Shoot with IR gun so you know you're ok regardless what the gauge needle points to.

The absolute only bypass that I have is the heater core, and that’s only if I have the valve open. I cut the jiggler out of the t-stat, and drilled the hole to 1/8” to get a little bit of flow in that area.

[Charlie69]

d.p is there a ground wire to the alternator?

[d.p]

Yes.  

[d.p]

Well got the REMY alternator, had to drill out the bottom mounting ears and grind down in between them to clear the L20b alt bracket.  Reinstalled the voltage regulator and got it installed and it’s charging nice and quietly.  I did have an issue with grounds because I was using the spot where the VR was and now that it’s back it’s a right fit with 4 grounds there.  
 

Can I just use a sheet metal screw or something like that to give myself more grounds on the body ? Or is there a better way to do it?

[datzenmike]

yes

[banzai510(hainz)]

theres got to be a bolt some where to use.

I would use the bolt hole where the VR is just put it on top of the VR housing hole.