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My 1971 521


d.p

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Duly noted for the next time.  

 

All in al not to bad of a roadside fix.  I had my dog with me so I had to call my wife to come get him. But I was close enough to home that I could get parts and tools easily.  
 

What I did notice was the original airtex pump I installed when I put everything back together was a.bitch to get seated. Like the arm/spring was super tight and I had to muscle the shit out of it. This one went in super smooth so maybe the first one was a dud to begin with.  And I think the barely idling was just the fuel in the line and carbs left over.  Obviously when I throttled it no more file was getting delivered.   Was clear as day when I put a new filter on and no gas was being pulled into it. 
 

 

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5 minutes ago, d.p said:

Duly noted for the next time.  

 

All in al not to bad of a roadside fix.  I had my dog with me so I had to call my wife to come get him. But I was close enough to home that I could get parts and tools easily.  
 

What I did notice was the original airtex pump I installed when I put everything back together was a.bitch to get seated. Like the arm/spring was super tight and I had to muscle the shit out of it. This one went in super smooth so maybe the first one was a dud to begin with.  And I think the barely idling was just the fuel in the line and carbs left over.  Obviously when I throttled it no more file was getting delivered.   Was clear as day when I put a new filter on and no gas was being pulled into it. 
 

 

I think some others have had this same problem.... my guess is the arms aren't quite correct.....

I would use the one you currently have that you say fits better as the comparison when you buy the new one... even check it against the broken one.... my guess is the arms are slightly different....

Maybe a bigger spacer is necessary, not sure.... 

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1 hour ago, d.p said:

Well that seems to have fixed the fuel delivery problem but now my battery is dead from trying to crank it over.  Guess I just wait for the tow truck and have them tow me home or give me a jump.
 

and @banzai510(hainz) I’m not using NGK wires…was using MSD and like to try the simple things first.  And why would I have calcium deposits on the dizzy cap side inside the wires?  

Simple and free would be check for vacuum leak.

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2 minutes ago, d.p said:

Yeah I just don’t remember if those fuel pumps are supposed to be razor tight.  Meaning a ton of force needed to install.  

I dont think so..... 

Maybe if you were on the eccentric because technically it would be pushing on the arm....

The failures I have seen usually snap the arm off, your looks like you broke the pivot.....

Personally I'd remove the valve cover when installing and you have a better idea.... even rotate the motor to make sure it's not bending the arm.... should just be riding on the eccentric....

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1 minute ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Sometimes the ports are clocked differently than what you have in the car. But this is easy to correct by unscrewing the top and rotating the top cover.

 

Yeah not worried about that, the pump I have now is reversed from what I had on my l16 so no big deal.  Ordered that pump and will just keep the one I have on now as a spare.  

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1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

I dont think so..... 

Maybe if you were on the eccentric because technically it would be pushing on the arm....

The failures I have seen usually snap the arm off, your looks like you broke the pivot.....

Personally I'd remove the valve cover when installing and you have a better idea.... even rotate the motor to make sure it's not bending the arm.... should just be riding on the eccentric....

 

Isn't the pump always on the eccentric?  Just maybe not on the lobe side? 

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3 hours ago, d.p said:

Well cracked this case.  POS airtex pump shit the bed.  Have another going to throw it on but the spring is down in the timing cover, do I need to worry about that?  
 

will order a better pump as wel. 

D3497592-F39A-46B9-8E60-2CF95B204FDF.jpeg

 

Spring is on outside of chain loop and the guide. Unlikely to get past it and down past where the coolant inlet and outlet to the water pump/block bulges on the timing cover. I think the guide is too tight against it. If it can you could remove the valve cover and maybe get a magnet down beside the guide. IF it can get down lower you can remove the oil pump and spindle and use a magnet through that hole.

 

The crusty deposits are from arcing of the spark. If the contacts are aluminum, the cheaper ones are, then this is aluminum oxide.

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Just did and I can’t see it. Got my magnet stuck under the driver said chain/guide and had to break it to get it off. Thought for a second I was going to have to take the front cover to get the magnet out but was able to finagle it.  
 

fuck the spring and will just leave I guess? 

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I bought some cheap eBay knockoffs of that style ($65 shipped). Too cheap, but still using - ball/cone adjuster hardware is crap.

Approx. like these ones - avoid: https://www.ebay.com/itm/161894784405

 

Seems like you need aftermarket mirrors in your hand to tell if they fit/work properly.

 

But those look damn nice, and Hainz will say 'Made in Japan' bodes well.

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Yeah I have a NOS round on my truck now but have only seen a passenger side one once on ebay IIRC.   Would really like a matching set but would hate to have to drill more holes in my door as there are already 4 on the drivers (2 for the current mirror and 2 for the tow mirrors it came with) and 2 on the passenger side.  

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