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My 1971 521


d.p

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12 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

theres got to be a bolt some where to use.

I would use the bolt hole where the VR is just put it on top of the VR housing hole.

 

That is what I am using, but I have 4 grounds to those 2 bolts holding the VR in place.   Would like to clean it up if I could. 

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WTF??????

 

521's ran just fine with a single ground wire from the negative cable to the battery tray and the battery cable to a bolt on the head behind the fuel pump. The alternator also had a dedicated ground wire (although it is already grounded through the engine mount) on it's harness that went to the voltage regulator mounting screw.

 

This isn't an '90s EFI that needs a fucking ground for every sensor on the car. 521's are simple. Ground the body to the block and done.

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The only problem really is that grease, grime, and paint can increase impedances, and cause strange issues. I just make sure that the sheetmetal is clean, use dielectric grease, and paint is scraped off prior to running the ground. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dropped off this bitch at the exhaust shop today, getting a 2.25" SS with vibrant resonator and magna flow muffler.    Should sound and look titties when all said and done.  Based it off @Brandon S exhaust from this post:  

 

Looking forward to ti.  

 

 

 

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Welp 100% 2.25" was somewhat short lived....I guess with an L20B, 5 speed trans and torsion bars there is simply not enough room to squeeze a 2.25" from the exhaust manifold/collector down under the truck.  So I had to do 2" > 2.25" in that space but it sounds and drives great.  Not obnoxious and throaty enough to know the truck is far from stock.  Seems more responsive than with what I had before and in the end I am happy with it.   Cost me roughly $800 all in with a magna flow muffler and vibrant resonator.   

 

 

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Will probably install my A/F gauge this weekend (going to swap out the volt meter for it) as well to really see what the truck is doing in the hopes of fine tuning the shit out of it.   

 

One little issue I have been having is sometimes the gas pedal sticks, meaning there is some resistance somewhere that I have to put extra effort into push it.  Not sure what it is and it doesn't happen all the time.  From a quick glance I did notice my parking brake sits nearly on top of it.  Does everyone else's do that?  I mean if anything its just slightly to the left of the gas pedal by a cunt hair.  But my foot touches the parking brake lever/arm when I touch the gas pedal.  

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6 minutes ago, d.p said:

Will probably install my A/F gauge this weekend (going to swap out the volt meter for it) as well to really see what the truck is doing in the hopes of fine tuning the shit out of it.   

 

One little issue I have been having is sometimes the gas pedal sticks, meaning there is some resistance somewhere that I have to put extra effort into push it.  Not sure what it is and it doesn't happen all the time.  From a quick glance I did notice my parking brake sits nearly on top of it.  Does everyone else's do that?  I mean if anything its just slightly to the left of the gas pedal by a cunt hair.  But my foot touches the parking brake lever/arm when I touch the gas pedal.  

Did they weld a bung on for you?

I hope you have a plug in it not the o2 sensor....

You can damage the sensor very easily if its not powered while the vehicle is running...

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3 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Did they weld a bung on for you?

I hope you have a plug in it not the o2 sensor....

You can damage the sensor very easily if its not powered while the vehicle is running...

 

Haha yeah man they welded a bung and its currently plugged until I install the gauge and sensor.  I literally just picked the truck about an hour ago.  

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I started designing a 304 stainless 2 into 1 collector downpipe the other day, and it's ridiculously tight in there. It's so bad that the two 1.75" tubes need to be welded to the flange at an angle to miss the bellhousing. I went with 1.75" because that's the diameter of the openings on the cast manifold and I wanted to match it. I bought a bunch of 45 degree elbows and my plan is to try to snake it around the torsion bar.

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3 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

I started designing a 304 stainless 2 into 1 collector downpipe the other day, and it's ridiculously tight in there. It's so bad that the two 1.75" tubes need to be welded to the flange at an angle to miss the bellhousing. I went with 1.75" because that's the diameter of the openings on the cast manifold and I wanted to match it. I bought a bunch of 45 degree elbows and my plan is to try to snake it around the torsion bar.

 

Best of luck man.   I had all my hangers replaced and just turned down the exhaust under the bed like it was previously.  I think I saw Ray had a hole through the frame for his exhaust and I think that might be the best way to do it with these otherwise it becomes the low hanging spot which it is on mine now under the cab.  

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1 hour ago, d.p said:

 

Best of luck man.   I had all my hangers replaced and just turned down the exhaust under the bed like it was previously.  I think I saw Ray had a hole through the frame for his exhaust and I think that might be the best way to do it with these otherwise it becomes the low hanging spot which it is on mine now under the cab.  

 

Did you have a flex joint put in anywhere? I'm debating if I want one or not.

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20 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

 

Did you have a flex joint put in anywhere? I'm debating if I want one or not.

I have questioned the use of those on a rear wheel drive vehicle...

I read it's only necessary on a front wheel drive vehicle due to the fact that the motor moves front to back vs side to side....

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30 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

 

Did you have a flex joint put in anywhere? I'm debating if I want one or not.

 

No, but the exhaust is in 3 sections so easy to uninstall if need be (note one has nothing to do with the other but thought I would throw it out there regardless).   And to echo what Crash said what about our exhaust needs to flex?  

Edited by d.p
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15 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

No, but the exhaust is in 3 sections so easy to uninstall if need be (note one has nothing to do with the other but thought I would throw it out there regardless).   And to echo what Crash said what about our exhaust needs to flex?  

I thought that would be achieved by the rubber hangers....

Maybe it's used so you can hang the exhaust more rigid in the back....

I honestly have no idea....

All I know is none of my rear wheel drive vehicles ever had it....

 

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1 hour ago, d.p said:

See flex sections/pipes on down pipes more than anywhere else.  

I know but again usually on a front wheel drive.... 

I didn't have them on my Chevy, nissan, or the Subaru ... 

Could you use one, sure nothing stopping you but doesnt seem overly neccessary.....

 

From the web....

 Flex pipes are an essential part of any front wheel drive vehicle and on most all wheel drive vehicles. On front wheel cars, since the motor is mounted transversely, when you accelerate the motor rocks and the flex pipe protects your exhaust system from breakage. 

 

 

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20 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Would provide sound and vibration isolation.

That's what I use them for. They make it so you can tuck an exhaust up tighter and run stiffer hangers, but not get the resonance of a tightly sprung exhaust.

 

On low vehicles, if you already have problems with your exhaust scraping speedbumps, it will be worse and not worth the effort.

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