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Japrnoo

4 Door 510 from Finland

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Hi guys.

 

It's been a while, i'm sorry for a lack of posts here. (If you wanna see the progress real time check my instagram @japrnoo !)

 

So whats been up? I finally got the front coilovers, they are ground control coils with Koni race shocks.

48330592017_a9034ee251_b.jpg

 

On the same deal i got DPracing aluminium hubs, they are great because they got the centers for discs machined to the hub!

Today I installed new bearings on them and APracing 267mm disc + they got ARP wheel studs.

Now I just need to find the center washer and nut to install the hub.

48330456826_af27400856_b.jpg

 

 

I'm sorry Banzai but this is the way that this car is going now, sneak peak of the +55mm fender flares that i got. I will show how they  fit when they are fully installed.

48330464441_d0030d2b01_b.jpg

 

Installed the Ground control coilovers the "right way" (these are upsidedown coilovers) the assembly was a bit of a trick to make but managed to do it myself!

Sorry for the crappy phone pics, forgot my camera to home couple times.

48330462141_2dda5f00f5_b.jpg

 

First my friend made me new upper ends, these are made from aluminium with 10mm thread on top and 14mm on bottom for the strut.

top10.jpg

 

Then I made 20mm thick Nylon bushing on it.

top_wi10.jpg

 

So when trying to install the coilovers the bottom end didn't fit on the control arm sleeve, the spring was also hittig the wheelwell

if you forced the bottom end to fit on the control arm.

fitmen10.jpg

 

I cutted the original rear shoc mounting point off.

cutted10.jpg

 

Then I made 10mm thread inside the rear control arm, now the problem was that the strut is too close to control arm.

m10_th10.jpg

 

When the strut didn't fit on it's place i made 6mm thick sleeve on the control arm and welded it on.

holkki10.jpg

 

After this the rear strut fitted on it's place as wanted

fits10.jpg

 

My summer vacation starts in the week, my plan is to get the car on it's wheel and fit the flares + possibly there is some changes coming on the roll cage.

 

I will post more stuff soon!

 

Edited by Japrnoo
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10 hours ago, Japrnoo said:

Installed the Ground control coilovers the "right way" (these are upsidedown coilovers) the assembly was a bit of a trick to make but managed to do it myself!

Sorry for the crappy phone pics, forgot my camera to home couple times.

48330462141_2dda5f00f5_b.jpg

 

 

 

Won't the compression rate be traded for the expansion rate by turning them upside down????? Expansion is usually stiffer than compression. What about the valving inside. If at the top now any bubbles will cause a loss of hydraulic damping.

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28 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Won't the compression rate be traded for the expansion rate by turning them upside down????? Expansion is usually stiffer than compression. What about the valving inside. If at the top now any bubbles will cause a loss of hydraulic damping.

 

Mike...it's still compression no matter which way you face them. 

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Ha ha.... yes, sort of. The rates are different usually for compression and rebound. Usually rebound is firmer. On the front shocks on the 620 it's twice as much.

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28 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Ha ha.... yes, sort of. The rates are different usually for compression and rebound. Usually rebound is firmer. On the front shocks on the 620 it's twice as much.

 

Yeah, but I'm saying compression is compression, it doesn't matter which way the shock is flipped, it's still being compressed on bump and decompressed on droop, so the valving continues to work correctly.

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 AHHHhhh the light just went on. Thanks Matt.

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Hi! 

 

Yeah I got the idea to flip them by reading this guys project topic on 510 realm(?)

 

http://www.speedhunters.com/2016/09/datsun-time-attacker-gm-ecotec-power/

 

If i remember right he said something like ”they suck when they are upside down but when you flip them over they work better”

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On 7/20/2019 at 6:51 PM, banzai510(hainz) said:

I say NOOOOOOO on the flairs!!!!that car is too straight. Your going to cut the car

its a 4 door and a race car now 

so cut it up for flares 

just my opinion and dont get me wrong I love stock body lines and hate flares 

but this is a race car now so flare away 

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Couple photos, sorry flare haters.

 

48549771751_56cd3f9368_b.jpg

 

48549916532_6c2fe67d7d_b.jpg

 

rear flares need massive modification, will post pictures when its ready.

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Could the flares be lower? Or how would that look? Or are we looking for longer suspension travel? The stance would be nice to see with flares lower

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Never cared for 510 flairs of any kind. At the moment those FU the super sonic line. Four door are really hard to do. 

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On 8/16/2019 at 4:29 PM, Atomic said:

Could the flares be lower? Or how would that look? Or are we looking for longer suspension travel? The stance would be nice to see with flares lower

 

This is a strong maybe, where the car sits now theres 10cm from the rear subframe to ground and 45mm from tire to fender. 

 

This is first racer for me so cant be sure is that 45mm enough suspension travel or not. On front theres 65mm from tire to fender but fronts need to turn.

Atleast the stance looks good in my opinion but lets see what happens when i get to drive this thing.

On 8/16/2019 at 5:19 PM, datzenmike said:

Never cared for 510 flairs of any kind. At the moment those FU the super sonic line. Four door are really hard to do. 

 Yes the car being four door caused extra trouble, hopefully the end result is good when we get this done.

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48330464441_d0030d2b01_b.jpg

 

I assume the tires will hit the fenders on extreme suspension travel? With proper rims 8" tires will fit a 510. Nine inch is the absolute limit.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

I assume the tires will hit the fenders on extreme suspension travel? With proper rims 8" tires will fit a 510. Nine inch is the absolute limit.

 

These are  235/45/13 so they are 9,25" tires and I'm going to go with 240mm wide slicks in the future.

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Yeah, i didn't want to go with the flares at the first point but fitting these tires into stock body with that ride height was hopeless.

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I'm cool with the flares, and totally looks like you're going to need them in the back! 😄 

Only thing I would mention is it looks like the front flare sits like 1" above the line in the front fender panel, while the rear mock-up appears to sit flush with it. I would consider mounting them both at the same height unless you're going to give the car a bit of a 'raked' stance. 

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6 minutes ago, BrothersGarage said:

I'm cool with the flares, and totally looks like you're going to need them in the back! 😄 

Only thing I would mention is it looks like the front flare sits like 1" above the line in the front fender panel, while the rear mock-up appears to sit flush with it. I would consider mounting them both at the same height unless you're going to give the car a bit of a 'raked' stance. 

 

That was my first idea but assembling them more down could have caused tire to hit the flare when wheels are fully turned in speed. Also in the original BRE race car the rears are flush and the front comes a bit over the the line.

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I'm not dead !

 

It's been quiet from my side for past two months but progress have been happening. 

 

Fitting the flares to the car is a big project but hopefully we will get the left side ready this saturday so I can share it with you guys! 

 

During the time I have made a transmission holder ( actually V1, V1,5) and V2 is now under progress. Will share photos of it on the weekend too!

 

Some stuff for the engine arrived today and my new wheels will arrive in three weeks! Same volk rays mesh that i got now but 13" ! 

I need to get the crank balanced and then we can build the block! I'm doing the V1 engine with wet sump instead of drysump for two reasons.

 

-Our teams other car got the same setup and it has been running good for the last two years so why it would not work on my engine?

-Good wet sump system cost like 700euros compared to good drysump system which is 5000euro +

 

I have bought all the fuel equipment (tanks,pumps, filters, fuel lines and AN fittings) ready so when we get the rear flare installation ready I will start to fit the fuel equipment and do small fitting stuff because soon it's time to move to new carage so dont want to start any other big project before it!

 

Plan is to get the car to the paint shop next summer. Let's hope that i dont have anymore ideas that will ruin that plan hah!

 

This time it was more text than photos but here's one photo from last Thursday when I modified the rear subframe to fit my new 2.5" exhaust.

 

48847808251_2fd1f81072_b.jpg

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Hello!

 

Idea of just fitting flares to four door escalated pretty badly, thanks to my friend who made 90% of these.

 

48886585993_bdd129ccf9_b.jpg

48886587963_2fb04e4c3f_b.jpg

48886589838_9bcdfb4075_b.jpg

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So the body, door and wheelwell was modified to make those flares fit with fully functionable rear door. 

 

I think that these came out great, i have anyone else fitting flares to four door like this. It was maybe too much work for just a track day build but these are 

something to show in the car shows too. I will post photos how they look like when the car is on it's wheel next week when i get new parts to the rear axle. 

 

Till next week! 

 

-Jarno

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Nice job.  I've seen a couple/few done that way.  

 

If you've never used anti-splatter spray when MIG welding you should try it :)

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Hi! 

 

Life has been busy for a while so I have totally forgot to keep this topic posted ! 

 

Lately I've got new job, new garage last Friday and lots of another stuff has kept me busy but I've had some time to work with the 510 also ! 

 

Here's couple of Iphone pictures how to car looks like at the moment. I will post up better introduction about last 5months in couple of weeks when we get the renevation of the new garage done ! 

 

510_210.jpg

51010.jpg

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