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Everything posted by BrandonS

  1. $300, give or take $50 a reasonable median for the price for standard tubing with their crush bent machines. 2" will do you just fine. I went from a 1.75" to a 2.25" mandrel bent exhuast with a magnaflow on my 510 with an L18 and dual SU carbs. I didn't notice any gains except that it got louder and the exhaust pipe would glisten in the sun.
  2. If you want to save a little money but want some Wats, you can always get the standard one piece cast R-type. Just watch the auctions. The prices on them vary A LOT. Also check the size/offset because that usually will push the selling price if it's more desirable. It isn't hard to come by them on a good deal.
  3. It is actually factory color. It’s been repainted, so I’m just going off pictures of the color code and what mine looks like. Also it matches the original paint in the trunk and interior. I verified against the code stamped in the radiator support. I’m going to look like a bad owner here, but I’ve since forgotten what the paint code number is; I can check next time I’m out in the garage.
  4. If you are running 4 corner drum brakes I would not recommend spending the $700+ for a pedal box setup. To answer your question though, no, manual brakes do not automatically mean you will have a harder pedal. However, it isn't just as simple as just buying a pedal box, bolting it in and putting your master cylinder one it. The pedal box will undoubtedly have a different pedal ratio than your stock. I think the stock is around 4.5:1, where an aftermarket such as a Tilton will be adjustable from 5:1 to ~6.2:1. I think Wilwoods are somewhere around 6.1:1 and I'm not sure they are adjustable. In any case, this additional leverage gives you a mechanical advantage between your foot pushing the pedal and the pedal pushing the master cylinder rod. Once you figure out the ratio difference, you would then need to adjust your master cylinder sizes accordingly to balance pedal force and brake force. A few things to keep in mind... the larger the master cylinder, the higher the foot pressure, but least amount of pedal stroke. The inverse is true in that a smaller master cylinder will result in less pedal pressure to brake force, but will result in a longer pedal travel. On top of this you will need keep in mind your chosen the master cylinder volume in relation to your caliper's fluid volume and ensure so there is enough fluid available to fully extend the calipers pistons (in your case the brake cylinder). You will need to balance all these things. Then finally, you will need to select your front and rear master cylinder's sizing appropriately to apply the correct bias between front and back. You don't want this 50/50 because during a braking manuever a large majority of the vehicles weight (~70% is a common figure) is transferred to the front axle of the vehicle. Due to this you need to have most of the braking force applied to the front axle; failing to do so will result in your rear brakes locking up first. Most pedal boxes will have an adjuster bar, but you will want the primary balance set by the size difference in master cylinders leaving the balance bar for minor adjustments to account for things like weather or track conditions.
  5. Those, for a lack of a better term, slab side paint jobs look good on the Coupes.
  6. Finally! It's starting to look on the bright side of things. I finished up shortening that strut tube the other day and the past couple days had some more time to spare. I got the second brake caliper bracket made, other strut tube shortened, koni race shocks are both installed with the spacers for under them made, and also sorted out getting the coilover perches to clear the inside of the bags so they sit flush. I also got the second adjustable control arm made. I just want to drive this thing, but there's so much left to do yet. More bits are coming in the mail for it, I need to take the rear apart and fab up some stuff there for the air and brakes, and then sort the lines/trunk out for both air and brakes. Also, I'm still working on the air bag electronics. I've made some pretty good progress on the computer side of things, but I'll put that in another post with it's own description. Old vs New Only ~1" change in rotor diameter, but that single piston sure was the pits when you'd use the brakes. Hopefully I picked a good street/AutoX pad. I went with Wilwoods BP-20 pads. I think they'll be a good all around pad. As far as bag vs coilover, I'm really banking on the it being nice for both sport and cruise with the dynamic control I'm programming into the custom controller I'm making for the car. Matching pairs of everything "Aired-Out"
  7. Thanks, after seeing yours I'm wondering if I maybe should go with the Nickel Copper. I got stainless because it's polished, but I'm digging the tinted hue of the nickel copper. I ordered a pedal setup to go with the brakes and I'm getting worried the world's going to shut down before Summit sends them to me.
  8. Oh yea, that's shiny already! Nice looking goon. You should be able easily get that done wit M105 and a random orbital if not just polish or something like 3M Swirl Remover.
  9. What's the current state of the paint? That really is what will dictate how you go about it. As far as machines, I'd recommend a Random Orbital Buffer/Polisher. The random orbiting motion really helps to protect the paint from getting burned through which you can do with a regular polisher that just spins if you hold it in once place too long. It's makes the process just about dummy proof. To go along with that, pick up some foam pad kits of the appropriate size to match the buffer. You'll want a kit that has a cutting, polishing, and waxing pad. Grab 2 or 3 because they fill up with the material you are buffing off the car so it's nice to change them as you go about buffing. The buffer and pads can come from Harbour Freight to keep the cost down and it'll all do you just fine. Since I'm in quarantine, drinking my morning coffee at home.... here's some cheaters from my experience doing this over the years on my own cars in my own driveway; other's with more experience may have tips to add. These are kind of arranged in a worse condition to better condition order; and also most aggressive to least aggressive paint correction approaches. So if you start at the worst go through the subsequent steps down the list. Use reasoning... if you just used a cutting compound for dull paint, don't use it again for the scratches, just do it all together and go onto the next least invasive method. I don't have color sanding in here because I've never tried it. Also, you do not need to use Meguiar's products, it's just what I've used and had good experience with. *Always wash your car before doing this Dull / Chalky Paint - Cutting Comound (recommendation Meguiar's M205) - Cutting Pad - WARNING: If your paint is like this you either have a single stage paint that has been left unprotected for a long time or a base/clear coat paint where the clear coat has failed and lifted off the base coat. In both these conditions the underlying condition is unknown. It is best to proceed with caution and closely monitor as you buff to watch for burn through where you have buffed away the colored paint and hit primer/metal. This is just a risk when the paint has been left to deteriorate to this condition. Wipe of remaining residue. *The above is a worst case paint state, after this state it is a good idea to clay bar the car before doing the below steps. It helps to remove surface contaminants that may get into your pads and introduce problems during the polishing steps. Scratches You Can Catch With Your Finger Nail - Cutting Compound (recommendation Meguiar's M205) - Cutting Pad - Buff small sections at a time only along the scratch. Your approach will vary depending on the scratches depth. ------If it goes through the color layer to the primer or metal, go ahead and clean out the scratch with a good cleaner. Dawn actually works great to clean and degrease. Apply some matching touch up paint making it ever so slightly proud of the surface. I'm talking fractions of a millimeter. Then use a very fine sanding paper (1000grit) and wet sand it flush with the surface. Use the recommended compound and pad above and buff until the finish looks the same as the surrounding clear. Only buff over the repaired area (the width of the buffer) since you are using a cutting compound. This is to avoid unnecessary removal of good clear coat in areas a distance away from the scratch. -----If it isn't through the color coat and is only in the clear, go ahead and buff it with the above recommended compound/pad. Just watch that you don't go through the clear coat. With a random orbital that would be pretty difficult to do unless you have thin or damaged clear coat. Wipe of remaining residue. Swirl Marks / Spider Webbing / Haziness in Clear Coat - Cutting Compound (recommendation Meguiar's M205 or M105) - Cutting Pad - Start with the M105 and buff an area for a minute or two. If the swirls or haziness readily disappear go over the car with that. It's a less aggressive cutting compound than the M205. If the swirls are not going away, step up to the M205. Buff the car section by section until the surface defects are gone. Wipe of remaining residue. Clear Coat has Lost That "Wet" Sheen - Polishing Compound (Meguiar's Ultimate Compound) - Polishing Pad - As with the section above. Just go section by section and work it until the area looks as good as you are wanting. Wipe of remaining residue when done. Car is Shiny but Dirty - Wax - Waxing Pad - Wash the car and apply wax Car is Clean and Sparkles in the Sun - Good job! Drink a beer or a Gin and Tonic (my personal favorite)
  10. I'm still working on my never ending brake/suspension project upgrading from Coilovers and 200SX single pistons to air and 6 pistons. Yesterday I got the driver's side (RHD) caliper bracket made and brake setup put together. Today I should be able to get the shock tube cut down and a spacer cut for underneath the Koni race shocks.
  11. Beautiful work! I I heard the nickel copper is really nice to work with. I see you got the nice flare machine too.
  12. You're not suppose to ask the hard questions. Just drink your hot coffee and stay healthy.
  13. Source: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?t=31024
  14. Is making it out of aluminum or stainless possible?
  15. With the holiday season and then getting sent on a short deployment for a couple months I didn't get much done. I've been off work this past week due to the virus stuff so I got a little work in between hanging out with the family, resting, servicing the daily drivers, and then I cleaned up the garage a bit and added some lights so I can see. I only had two little incandescent bulbs in there before. So with the new brake setup, the Watanabes I had bought with the car poke out a bit too far to run a wider tire on them. I really liked them though, they have such a classic look. I did get lucky though. I came across a guy selling a staggerd 15x6.5 & 7 set of Watanabe RS8's for a nice price, so I scooped those up. I'll just have to refinish them a bit. Some polishing and also strip/paint the centers. I know, story of my life; I keep buying wheels that need work. I'd like to say I'll learn, but I won't. Then I got two of the Vegas now all drilled out and seperated. It still takes some time drilling all these studs out, but I think I have the system down now to make it go as quickly and accurately as possible. Then the other day I took the suspension BACK off the car and disassembled it. I got a new 7x12 band saw so I decided to go ahead and shorten the shock tubes. I've been putting it off for a while, but if I'm going to redo it, may as well just do it all. Since I've had the car I've been driving with the perches bottomed out on the coilover sleeve. So to add more adjustability back into the system and be able to dial in the perfect ride height once the bags get going I shortened the tube by a little over 1.5". That will put the perches just about in the center now if all things the same, so I'll gait adjustability up and down with them. Then I looked at my car for a while and I can see how people have a project car that hasn't seen the light of day for 5 years, it's super easy for life to take over at times and leave you with little resources time wise or monetarily to put into it; if not at times both.
  16. I would like to add, as a Dad, I love the cheesiness of your title. I chuckle inside every time I see it.
  17. There are also the JDM consoles, but they can be pricey to be had.
  18. I would say pass, but it really depends on what you want to do with your car. They will fit nice if you want to run tons of camber and slam it. If you want to run appropriately wide tires on them for their width and have a low, sporty suspension you will run into problems. I've since gotten a few different wheels for mine because of these not being optimal for the direction I'm going. This is a 14x7 +8 on the front of my coupe with a 175 stretched over it. You 7" +6 would be about the same, but would technically stick +2mm out farther. This is a 14x7.5 +1 on my Coupe with a 175 tire stretched over it. An 8" 0-offset wheel would stick out 7mm more than this. This is what stock 510's do when you lower them in the rear, they add tons of camber. Generally, you'll want to fix this with some brackets that allow you to dial out camber. If you do this though, you'd run into problems rubbing because the top of the wheel will come out as the bottom goes in. You can see how close the tire is to the inner fender lip here. With this setup I only had the option to run the tons of rear camber just to make the wheel fit.
  19. Do you have SU carbs? If so make sure the piston in them goes up and down freely. They get gunked up over time and don't rise/fall freely.
  20. The stuff they show pictures of does always look top notch
  21. No doubt. I’m by no means hating on it. It worked well 97% of the time for me. The only reason I upgraded was because I moved/didn’t bring mine with and I don’t have harbor freight here. You have a nice build going btw. I’m most jealous of your rotisserie.
  22. I had one of these I used with my MIG. It is infinitely easier to start a weld with over one that is always dark. It did work mostly fine, except and I"m not sure why, the sensors seemed to not see the arc all the time and I'd get flashed. I've since gotten a TIG and switched to a Jackson Safety helmet and although I've not gotten flashed once, it does cost almost 3 times as much; so you'd have to determine the value in economy for you. Not pooping on your helmet, as I said, I've had one. Just giving my experience with it so you know; mine very well could have been defective.
  23. Thank you. This project is the first I've used a TIG. I have a whole lot of learning to do, I did what you suggested and just spent a bunch of time practicing and screwing up my fair share of things, one being going through a 20L bottle in a few hours because I thought my gas had to be turned up much higher than need (reading too much internet and Youtube). I can say I think TIG is more enjoyable and seems more relaxed and controllable; maybe only now though since I can fninally keep the tip out of the pool haha. One thing I'd love to get is a pedal; I think it'd help to keep things more consistent once the metal heats up so I can lower the amperage instead of having to move much faster.
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