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BrandonS

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Everything posted by BrandonS

  1. I think that’s a 2002?
  2. Sometimes they are needed. My Audi TTS has a spoiler that pops up at ~75kph to reduce lift. The owner's manual actually cautions against driving the car at higher speeds if the spoiler has malfunctioned for this reason. I know the first gen ones had a recall done to add a spoiler because they'd lose control on the Autobahn during lane changes due to the lift the body generated. I mean the car's roofline is shaped like a wing though so what can you really expect. As far as spoilers on a 510, the Ecotec one that's raced has a functional spoiler, but it is huge and sticks above the roofline to be in the airstream. I'd say I personally like the look of a small lip spoiler on the back of them and 100% agree it'd be cosmetic only in nature. I've heard of BMW E30 spoilers being fitted, but not sure how well they'd fit in reality.
  3. That’s some good info! To answer your question. The light to the left of the ashtray is the OE fog light switch for the fog light option grill. The cigarette lighter is on the right as you said, but was in the center console when I took the pic. I believe in 71 (the year of mine) the fog switch was always there regardless if you had optioned the car with the fog light grill or not. Along with the switch, the wiring for the grill is also in the engine bay harness already. I swapped over to 9007 headlight housings and use the switch to control the low beam element for the inside lights that have yellow bulbs in. Also, the car Is RHD because I had bought while I lived in Japan. It’s an 1800SSS Coupe so it has the SSS gauges and other SSS bits. I brought it with me to Germany when I had moved. It’ll follow me back to the states when I finally head back.
  4. I think this would be one of those things where you try it, maybe succeed after a bunch of swearing, maybe break some things in the process, and then in the end you'll wish you had taken out the 4 extra bolts.
  5. BrandonS

    T3 Heat Shield

    My car has a similar style shield on it with the SUs. I can't speak for a difference between having it or not having it, but I've had the car out in traffic in 100 deg weather many times and it never vapor locked or anything.
  6. I see you have adjustable TC rods. What do you have your caster set at? Adding more caster will help the car track straighter.
  7. It's literally just taking a medium sized nut off of the steering column, pulling the wheel off (i had to wiggle while pulling for mine) and then putting the new one on and tightening the nut down. If it's the faux wooden one, i'd recommend "restoring" it before you stick it on. It's a really easy process. You just take steel wool scouring pads and scrub it until all the old lacquer comes off. Once that's off you just put a few coats of clear lacquer over it. Done. It's also a good time to repaint the center part. Before: After:
  8. Since you said your car isn't and will not be lowered, I'm assuming you are on stock springs. I'm not sure what diameter stock springs are, but keep in mind when people run camber plates at the top they are almost always running coil overs since it's the easiest solution to lower a 510. Coilovers utilize a significantly narrower spring than stock springs. All that being said, with camber plates and stock springs you may run into the issue where the camber plate has the adjustability, but adjusting it that far will result in the stock spring hitting your strut tower. I'm not sure if this is the case, but I bet it if isn't it'll at least be close. I would do some measuring and if it the springs would hit the strut tower, you're best bet will be the LCA's and camber plates together. This will allow you to increase track width with the LCA which increases camber, then you'd use your camber plates to center the spring in the strut tower so it doesn't rub. Also, if you have a welder you can make your own adjustable LCAs for pretty cheap by cutting the inner bushing off and putting a heim joint in, much like Ermish Racing does.
  9. Just use some sand paper to clear off the corrosion for the time being and it should start functioning again. You can also remove all the rust and then paint them with silver paint and the reflectors will function just fine. Just make sure to clear a spot for the prong again.
  10. If you have headlights that run a modern bulb check that the previous owner didn’t wire the passenger side backward, ie power to high beam filament instead instead of the low beam filament. For the parking light, take the plastic lens off with the two screws and then see if it’s corroded one the inside of the housing. The gaskets first the lenses can fail and water will get in and corrode the housing. The parking/running bulbs rely on a tab pushing against the housing for their ground.
  11. On mine it controls the “map” light above the radio. You can see the switch and the white, rectangular light lens in this pic.
  12. I hope you didn't take that as a slight towards you. It was more of me defending someone just starting out with working on vehicles. Although the compliment is appreciated, in my opinion, I am definitely not in the upper echelons of mechanics. My instagram feed of 510's and other projects people have is an almost limitless source of Vitamin B-Put-In-My-Place. But if you like the Mercedes with the mechanical injectors, just start googling them and learn how they work. I bet in short order you can figure out how they work and build up a pretty good knowledge basis to work on it. Maybe you could get it for a steal based on it's current condition. Be careful though, this is also the same logic that I've used to get myself into horribly chosen projects. Oh to stay on topic a little bit. I scored an AP Suretrac R180 yesterday for $350. Now that the differential I'll run is no longer up in the air, I can start finalizing the ideas I've had in my head. I'm short on time today so I just went about getting rough measurements off my rear control arms. With this I can start drawing out how I'm going to fab the replacements up to handle the air suspension and 4 piston calipers. Truth be told, I'm also really gunning for getting a set of off-the-shelf CV axles to fit. I think I have a 90% chance of it working.
  13. Keep in mind we all learn on something... I'm very much still learning as I work on mine. It was nice of you to help the new owner; kudos to you. Not many would do that these days.
  14. $300, give or take $50 a reasonable median for the price for standard tubing with their crush bent machines. 2" will do you just fine. I went from a 1.75" to a 2.25" mandrel bent exhuast with a magnaflow on my 510 with an L18 and dual SU carbs. I didn't notice any gains except that it got louder and the exhaust pipe would glisten in the sun.
  15. If you want to save a little money but want some Wats, you can always get the standard one piece cast R-type. Just watch the auctions. The prices on them vary A LOT. Also check the size/offset because that usually will push the selling price if it's more desirable. It isn't hard to come by them on a good deal.
  16. It is actually factory color. It’s been repainted, so I’m just going off pictures of the color code and what mine looks like. Also it matches the original paint in the trunk and interior. I verified against the code stamped in the radiator support. I’m going to look like a bad owner here, but I’ve since forgotten what the paint code number is; I can check next time I’m out in the garage.
  17. If you are running 4 corner drum brakes I would not recommend spending the $700+ for a pedal box setup. To answer your question though, no, manual brakes do not automatically mean you will have a harder pedal. However, it isn't just as simple as just buying a pedal box, bolting it in and putting your master cylinder one it. The pedal box will undoubtedly have a different pedal ratio than your stock. I think the stock is around 4.5:1, where an aftermarket such as a Tilton will be adjustable from 5:1 to ~6.2:1. I think Wilwoods are somewhere around 6.1:1 and I'm not sure they are adjustable. In any case, this additional leverage gives you a mechanical advantage between your foot pushing the pedal and the pedal pushing the master cylinder rod. Once you figure out the ratio difference, you would then need to adjust your master cylinder sizes accordingly to balance pedal force and brake force. A few things to keep in mind... the larger the master cylinder, the higher the foot pressure, but least amount of pedal stroke. The inverse is true in that a smaller master cylinder will result in less pedal pressure to brake force, but will result in a longer pedal travel. On top of this you will need keep in mind your chosen the master cylinder volume in relation to your caliper's fluid volume and ensure so there is enough fluid available to fully extend the calipers pistons (in your case the brake cylinder). You will need to balance all these things. Then finally, you will need to select your front and rear master cylinder's sizing appropriately to apply the correct bias between front and back. You don't want this 50/50 because during a braking manuever a large majority of the vehicles weight (~70% is a common figure) is transferred to the front axle of the vehicle. Due to this you need to have most of the braking force applied to the front axle; failing to do so will result in your rear brakes locking up first. Most pedal boxes will have an adjuster bar, but you will want the primary balance set by the size difference in master cylinders leaving the balance bar for minor adjustments to account for things like weather or track conditions.
  18. Those, for a lack of a better term, slab side paint jobs look good on the Coupes.
  19. Finally! It's starting to look on the bright side of things. I finished up shortening that strut tube the other day and the past couple days had some more time to spare. I got the second brake caliper bracket made, other strut tube shortened, koni race shocks are both installed with the spacers for under them made, and also sorted out getting the coilover perches to clear the inside of the bags so they sit flush. I also got the second adjustable control arm made. I just want to drive this thing, but there's so much left to do yet. More bits are coming in the mail for it, I need to take the rear apart and fab up some stuff there for the air and brakes, and then sort the lines/trunk out for both air and brakes. Also, I'm still working on the air bag electronics. I've made some pretty good progress on the computer side of things, but I'll put that in another post with it's own description. Old vs New Only ~1" change in rotor diameter, but that single piston sure was the pits when you'd use the brakes. Hopefully I picked a good street/AutoX pad. I went with Wilwoods BP-20 pads. I think they'll be a good all around pad. As far as bag vs coilover, I'm really banking on the it being nice for both sport and cruise with the dynamic control I'm programming into the custom controller I'm making for the car. Matching pairs of everything "Aired-Out"
  20. Thanks, after seeing yours I'm wondering if I maybe should go with the Nickel Copper. I got stainless because it's polished, but I'm digging the tinted hue of the nickel copper. I ordered a pedal setup to go with the brakes and I'm getting worried the world's going to shut down before Summit sends them to me.
  21. Oh yea, that's shiny already! Nice looking goon. You should be able easily get that done wit M105 and a random orbital if not just polish or something like 3M Swirl Remover.
  22. What's the current state of the paint? That really is what will dictate how you go about it. As far as machines, I'd recommend a Random Orbital Buffer/Polisher. The random orbiting motion really helps to protect the paint from getting burned through which you can do with a regular polisher that just spins if you hold it in once place too long. It's makes the process just about dummy proof. To go along with that, pick up some foam pad kits of the appropriate size to match the buffer. You'll want a kit that has a cutting, polishing, and waxing pad. Grab 2 or 3 because they fill up with the material you are buffing off the car so it's nice to change them as you go about buffing. The buffer and pads can come from Harbour Freight to keep the cost down and it'll all do you just fine. Since I'm in quarantine, drinking my morning coffee at home.... here's some cheaters from my experience doing this over the years on my own cars in my own driveway; other's with more experience may have tips to add. These are kind of arranged in a worse condition to better condition order; and also most aggressive to least aggressive paint correction approaches. So if you start at the worst go through the subsequent steps down the list. Use reasoning... if you just used a cutting compound for dull paint, don't use it again for the scratches, just do it all together and go onto the next least invasive method. I don't have color sanding in here because I've never tried it. Also, you do not need to use Meguiar's products, it's just what I've used and had good experience with. *Always wash your car before doing this Dull / Chalky Paint - Cutting Comound (recommendation Meguiar's M205) - Cutting Pad - WARNING: If your paint is like this you either have a single stage paint that has been left unprotected for a long time or a base/clear coat paint where the clear coat has failed and lifted off the base coat. In both these conditions the underlying condition is unknown. It is best to proceed with caution and closely monitor as you buff to watch for burn through where you have buffed away the colored paint and hit primer/metal. This is just a risk when the paint has been left to deteriorate to this condition. Wipe of remaining residue. *The above is a worst case paint state, after this state it is a good idea to clay bar the car before doing the below steps. It helps to remove surface contaminants that may get into your pads and introduce problems during the polishing steps. Scratches You Can Catch With Your Finger Nail - Cutting Compound (recommendation Meguiar's M205) - Cutting Pad - Buff small sections at a time only along the scratch. Your approach will vary depending on the scratches depth. ------If it goes through the color layer to the primer or metal, go ahead and clean out the scratch with a good cleaner. Dawn actually works great to clean and degrease. Apply some matching touch up paint making it ever so slightly proud of the surface. I'm talking fractions of a millimeter. Then use a very fine sanding paper (1000grit) and wet sand it flush with the surface. Use the recommended compound and pad above and buff until the finish looks the same as the surrounding clear. Only buff over the repaired area (the width of the buffer) since you are using a cutting compound. This is to avoid unnecessary removal of good clear coat in areas a distance away from the scratch. -----If it isn't through the color coat and is only in the clear, go ahead and buff it with the above recommended compound/pad. Just watch that you don't go through the clear coat. With a random orbital that would be pretty difficult to do unless you have thin or damaged clear coat. Wipe of remaining residue. Swirl Marks / Spider Webbing / Haziness in Clear Coat - Cutting Compound (recommendation Meguiar's M205 or M105) - Cutting Pad - Start with the M105 and buff an area for a minute or two. If the swirls or haziness readily disappear go over the car with that. It's a less aggressive cutting compound than the M205. If the swirls are not going away, step up to the M205. Buff the car section by section until the surface defects are gone. Wipe of remaining residue. Clear Coat has Lost That "Wet" Sheen - Polishing Compound (Meguiar's Ultimate Compound) - Polishing Pad - As with the section above. Just go section by section and work it until the area looks as good as you are wanting. Wipe of remaining residue when done. Car is Shiny but Dirty - Wax - Waxing Pad - Wash the car and apply wax Car is Clean and Sparkles in the Sun - Good job! Drink a beer or a Gin and Tonic (my personal favorite)
  23. I'm still working on my never ending brake/suspension project upgrading from Coilovers and 200SX single pistons to air and 6 pistons. Yesterday I got the driver's side (RHD) caliper bracket made and brake setup put together. Today I should be able to get the shock tube cut down and a spacer cut for underneath the Koni race shocks.
  24. Beautiful work! I I heard the nickel copper is really nice to work with. I see you got the nice flare machine too.
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