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Everything posted by BrandonS

  1. BrandonS

    Bluebird Sports

    So here's the page for the SPORTS model. It sits after the Deluxe page and before the SSS page. Google translate says: ueinN power disc play! The sporty individuality> The ideal highway sedan to go on in a class <new appearance! A sporty sedan with an attractive force-Newly designed front grille and deep single cap 0. H. C. 1600 cc 92 hp engine with deep design. Emblem of “SPORTS”. Beautiful SSS Thailand top speed 155km / h. The dignified change lever, such as the wheel cap on the left side, is just below the high end. The mission is an appearance reminiscent of the high-speed way performance of the highway. A fully-changed, densely designed instrumental overtaking 4-speed full sync of "Spar" and "Kamaru Warner type". Set the tachometer on the front wheel and the disct. Equipped with a seat design. The dynamic atmosphere and the mood of the room as well as the dynamic charm are gorgeous please. It is a new type that has the Daigo taste of highway drive. You can enjoy it in minutes. Take that translation for what you want LoL I really need to go get a new scanner and carve out some time to getting these scanned and put into the ad campaign thread I started forever ago.
  2. BrandonS

    Bluebird Sports

    I think the SPORTS is the trim level below the SSS. I thought it was offered in the Coupe as well, but I can only find SSS Coupes in my brochures. Looking in my JDM Brochures it looks like it goes: Bluebird 1300 STANDARD Bluebird 1600 STANDARD Bluebird Deluxe Bluebird SPORTS Bluebird SSS
  3. I have similar coil from Summit in my car. I put it on the radiator support in front of the distributor.
  4. BrandonS

    Seat Belts

    Did you use one of those plates you drill a hole and slide the nut and reinforcement plate behind?
  5. That's nice looking! Is that a JB crossmember?
  6. Gave it a bath yesterday and took it out to splatter some bugs today. Took the kiddo with me to see the horses.
  7. Well project was set aside for a little. We got to meet our second daughter on March 21st. Work has a nice paternal leave policy so I've been busy helping my wife at home. I also took an additional 2 weeks to start on the Bluebird's suspension. Well, I got to spend the first week of that fixing my Mini. It's clutch started slipping so had to fix that along with some other maintenance issues I've been waiting to get too and quite a few that I found along the way. Ordering parts for more things really drug the whole process out, but at least it's done now. So onto the Bluebird.... I finally am starting to feel what I'm visualizing in my head is going to work out. I want to narrow the rear slightly so that I can fit wider tires more easily, but that means coming up with a solution for axles. I'm still am planning to run the R160 VLSD I got. With the lack of tire I can fit and the VLSD being a first gen unit with 4 spider gears it's worth a shot. I just can't see stealing $2000 at this point from say the motor to get an R180 setup. In any case, I spent many, many hours sorting out a plan for this rear end. I went back and forth with going VW CVs and welding bits together as was discussed earlier in the thread. In the end, I just dug into online parts specs and tried to come up with a solution. It basically boiled down to finding a hub that was 4x114.3, was on a drive axle and accepted a 24 spline axle. After going through vehicle after vehicle and looking up axle spec after axle spec, I found these.... hubs from a Mazda 323 BD. And boy do they fit nicely 😄 and since I plan to fab up my own rear trailing arms these will work out perfectly. Instead of worrying about a weld holding or being 100% true I can just disassemble the axles and have the middle section shortened and resplined or order shorter axle shafts to go in the middle. This will be make for a much cleaner, reliable, and simpler setup all around. 🤘 Hopefully this helps others if they want to run these differentials. With some different bearings maybe they'd even fit the stock trailing arms. And then my rotating assembly showed up as well 🤘 😁 Eagle Forged Rods with Carillo Performance Pistons. The machine shop got back to me and the engine was only .07mm out of round in the cylinders. So minimal wear, but they had recommended just going to .5mm over, which is the first oversize available. The head checked out fine so looks like it's all a go for the engine. Over the past couple weeks I also sat down and ran numbers through calculators, played with dynamic weight calculators, piston sizing options front and back, etc and worked out what I think will be a super nice brake setup that will be biased nicely for my car while also allowing me to run my 14" wheels I still have and like. I'll share that in the coming weeks when the parts start to arrive, but for now I'm really hoping to get started on the suspension in the meantime as I don't need to wait for the brake parts. We'll see, I have a lot of things bidding for my time, but I'd love to get the suspension and brakes done, hit a few car shows and enjoy the nice weather before winter returns.
  8. My Riversides were built the same way. The center was wedged between the barrels and welded; it was common practice back in the day for JDM wheels. When I redid mine I did quite a bit of googling up front. There’s always more than one way to skin a cat, but here’s the process I settled on for mine. 1. Clean the wheel with some dawn and water. Also remove all the hardware. As you can see in the picture below, mine were all rusty. I'd plan on putting new valve stems in too or at a minimum getting new rubber seals for the one you have if you plan to reuse it. 2. Fix any curb rash you have. I followed this tutorial. It was very easy and worked well. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/automotive-care-and-detailing/507574-diy-polished-lip-curb-rash-fix-it-now.html 3. If you look at the picture above you can see the cloudiness. You cannot polish this out. It's either a clear coating or an anodized coating that is failing. You need to remove this so you can get to and polish the bare aluminum. In my case it was anodized. I tried sanding it, but it was WAY too time consuming; basically borderline impossible. Since I knew I needed to strip this anodizing or whatever coating, along with the paint on the center section, I chose to strip them with EZ Off Oven Cleaner. Make sure to get the Yellow topped can as the Blue kind doesn't have the correct chemical in it. It will remove the anodizing and most paints. For my wheel it worked on the clear coating but not so much the paint. Yours look spray bombed so I’m willing to bet it’ll take that right off. It can eat aluminum if left on for a long period of time. I broke up the applications into 5 minute periods; spray it on, wait 5 minutes, rinse it off, lightly scrub with some 000 steel wool. Rinse and repeat until it's bare aluminum. 4. Sand, sand, sand and then sand some more. Mine had pitting on the barrel faces so I had to sand them down quite a bit. I went from 400 grit upto 2000 in steps. I wetsanded each step; I think it just makes it more uniform and less aggressive. You can tell when each step is done because the resistance on your sand paper will go down. Don't try to skimp on sand paper; when you think you need a new piece, just get a new piece. 5. I then sanded the faces of the spokes with a sanding block. For the rear I actually used a Porter Cable Oscillating tool with a sanding disc. That made it go way faster. Same thing applies though, go through the different grits in order. 6. Clean them well. Sanding leaves behind a residue that is not nice for polishing. If you don't clean it up now, you'll continually be battling scratches from it reappearing. 7. Polish everything. I bought a bench polisher, wheels, and a stand off Amazon. None were the most expensive but they made polishing it all a bunch easier. I also tried a drill adapter for the wheels; save your time and money, it just doesn't have the required speed or torque. Wear a mask and probably eye protection. You'll be covered in black dust made of aluminum dust and abrasives... this is not the kind of stuff you want in your eyes or lungs. Do some googling on the process. It's fairly easy though, you add the compound and push against it. I always tried to stay on the bottom quarter to keep it from kicking back. Also, I used a flat tip screw driver occasionally to clear the wheel up. I do not get anything if you buy these, just want to share what I used. It was fairly cost effective and I have been able to use it for my grill, valve covers, and various other things since I've had it. Bench Polisher - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BW8UOHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Stand - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPFITWA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Wheel/Compounds Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QXI9VW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 A polished and unpolished wheel: 8. After going through the 3 stages of buffing wheels/resins I used a Mothers Powerballs for a drill for final polishing. It did a nice job finishing it out. I have to buy a new one, but I think this will be all that is required for maintenance from this point forward. 9. Clean with dawn and water. This will remove all the residue and the dawn is good at breaking down grease. This is an important step for the paint to adhere. 10. Mask and paint. Since my wheels already had a pretty rough texture I just painted them. It’s held up fine for the last year or so. I do wish I had cleared them because brake dust is discoloring the paint. I wasn't sure on color so I tried two different. http://i.imgur.com/SKN4Ojv.gifv *Sorry I have no idea how to embed an animated GIF on imgur 11. Install new hardware. Just take a bolt to the hardware store and get the specs for size, thread pitch, length. They have those little things you can screw your bolt into to check your size/thread pitch. I originally had stainless steel bolts in, but ended up ordering some titanium bolts through AliExpress. Wanted to see how the Neochrome finish would look.
  9. I put an AEM 31-5130 into my car. I like that the analog face matches better with the analog guages of the car. Seems to work well, needle moves plenty quick. I can say since adding it and an MSD my car runs phenomenally better. Unless you are using a Wideband, it's really just a guessing game.
  10. Can you do Solidworks? You could easily 3D print up something that’d work. I did that to mod the center console in my car for gauges and it came out pretty nice. It wasn’t as involved as that, but that center cap isn’t an overly complicated design. If you are just painting the wheels you’d never know once you sanded/primed/painted the center cap. Thats for both pieces. The screw on cap and the plate that goes under it. The center could be done on thinner brushed steel and Then the logo laser etched on. Id Imagine any trophy store could make the metal disc with laser etching.
  11. I love wheels, it's a pitty they cost so much sometimes; especially after tires are added. Currently running 14" Riverside R109s that I restored. Next up is a pair of 15" Work Venette Vegas; I'm still beside myself on a color. I want to repolish the barrels and then sand down/polish the spokes like I did my Riversides. The bolts are giving me a hard time though so I just ordered and received an impact driver to try and break them free. After that, I need to paint my standard issue 14" Watanabes; I believe i'll go with a dark bronze on those.
  12. Well winter has pretty much gone ? and I've gotten nothing done. The engine block was dropped off 3 weeks ago at the machine shop and when I went in earlier this week, they still haven't gotten to it. Without knowing the game plan for the block, I'm up the river as far as ordering parts. I did however finally decide on a suspension setup. I kept going back and forth on what I wanted to do. I went from Koni race front/QA1 coilover rear, but I'm super matchy matchy in my head so I couldn't do it. I even called BC Racing to get directions/dimensions to retrofit their S13 stuff. It would have all worked great, except the rears were going to be too long. I also considered going w/ CXRacing, but lack of guarantee of quality... I just couldn't do. In the end, I went with what I had always been floating around in the back of my head; air. Initially, I was going to go it alone, but needed a few things cleared up before settling on a setup. I really don't want to do things twice, it's just not the type of person I am. So before ordering from places all over the web, I decided to shoot Phil at @twistedimages a PM on Facebook. He answered very quickly, was very knowledgeable, and a very nice guy. He verified a few things for me and also gave me a few recommendations. In the end, I ended up piecing together a system, but he was more than willing to work with me on that. The overall plan is that I want to have my cake and eat it too. I want to be able to air the system up and make it stiff, but not sit at a ridiculously high stance when I do it. I also want to be able to let some air out and have a comfortable ride. I believe pairing the air with the Konis and at least a coilover setup in the front will accomplish both of these things. Also check out below for my plan for the controller setup, because that's a huge portion of this plan. In the end the setup should look like this for suspension: Front: I'm going to utilize my existing 200SX struts w/ coilovers already on them Koni 8610-1436 Race inserts UAS AeroSport Bags Rear: Koni 1186-8041SPORT // From a Mustang, but came across them on E30 groups. For my car I'll have to get a new bottom bushing or put a new pin in the trailing arms. If memory serves me, the bushing is 12mm on these, but my 510 is 16mm. Slam Specialties SS-5 Bags TwistedImages upper/lower bag mount kit Air System: Viair 480C 4gal Tank AccuAir VX4 Controller: So this is where it'll get a little more interesting. There are off the shelf systems, but I want a little more than they offer so I'm going to go it alone. The plan is to go with an Arduino Mega and write the software. I have pressure sensors for each bag and one for the tank, as well as, height sensors. I utilized BMW/Mini headlight leveling sensors because they are readily available so if one craps out, it'll be easily replaced. The overall plan for the system will be to have set presets. At first, I want it to be controlled with a single push button. The thought is a long press will air out or go to previous ride setting, obviously based on what state it is in when you do that. Then if you click it a number of times it'll go to that preset. 1 short click, preset 1, 2 short clicks, preset 2, etc. Super easy. Down the road I'm thinking I'd like to make an app and use an old Android phone via bluetooth. So the reason why I am making my own is that I also plan to incorporate stepper motors onto the tops of the Konis, front and rear. This setup would give me control of both rebound stiffness as well as spring stiffness. It'll be a bit of an undertaking, but I don't see it as nonviable by any means. It's just reading sensor inputs, actuating valves for air, stepper motors for struts and monitoring the sensors to make it all come together. Fairly straight forward. *I know, not a Mega. Nor is this the setup I will run. I was just playing around. It's fairly easy to read the sensor and "actuate" the green/red LED based on the height sensor and if it needs to go up (green) or down (red). This is very similar the same as actuating the valves, minus the circuity involved to do so. So small update, tons of words, and no actual work, but this is where I'm at. I've really been toiling inside over what do do for the suspension and it's nice to have a path forward. I still need to pick out brake calipers front and rear (still considering Wilwood Powerlites) and also determine what I'm going to do about the trailing arms and axles; I think I'm going to end up moving the hubs in 1" or so. At this point I think the engine going in will get pushed off until this next winter, but I think having things how I want them and doing it once is more important than finishing it quickly and it being a forever project with changes along each step.
  13. Wow it's super rare to see swapped cars in Japan!
  14. These are neat looking too. DH-106 Comet with it's exploding square windows.
  15. I don't have it anymore, sold it when I went to Japan. I'm not sure if I'm glad I did or not, I really liked it. And to keep it remotely on topic, here's a pic of a Coupe. A repost from another topic, but have to stay on topic somehow.
  16. This blue color on a 510 ? It reminds me of my Cavalry Blue FJ.
  17. A quick down and dirty edit, but you get the point...
  18. This is true, I updated above to reflect this.
  19. I apologize if I’m way off base, but this is what I understand from quickly looking at the wiring diagrams. I also checked on my car and the fender indicators only flash with the turn signals/hazards and do not come on at all with the headlights. Looking at the wiring diagrams I suspect yours to act the same, however my car is not US Spec. The headlight system is ground switched meaning that 12V always sits on the circuit/bulbs and a ground is made at the switch to complete the circuit. The other lights (as Mike states below) are the opposite and switch 12V power with a constant ground. If everything is working fine until you turn on the headlights and then your indicators light up, it sounds like you have a short between your headlight circuit and the indicator circuit. The side markers lighting up when your headlights are on is indication that your headlight circuit is providing 12V to your indicator circuit (aka short between the circuits) which in turn utilizes that circuits built in ground. The turn signals won’t work then because that circuit already has the 12V that the flasher would be providing and the lights are already on. I see you said you were doing a resto. I am not sure what all you have touched but at first narrow the scope of your inspection to the areas you touched. If you didn’t remove your dash or touch wiring in it do not start by ripping away at things in there looking for the problem. Only after elimination of the areas you worked in should you dig deeper. In regards to areas you were working in, at first I would inspect connectors as these are the most handled items so they are more susceptible to damage from flexing, tugging and such. Next look for exterior damage on your wiring bundle (chafing, pinch points, etc). If you find any peel back the tape/wrap and check for damage to the wires’ insulation. Also, if there are any crimps in the system look those over for any wires that may have escaped them. Then slowly widen your scope as you eliminate areas. Past visible inspection you’ll need some sort of device to test with, like a multimeter.
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