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Everything posted by BrandonS

  1. No doubt. I’m by no means hating on it. It worked well 97% of the time for me. The only reason I upgraded was because I moved/didn’t bring mine with and I don’t have harbor freight here. You have a nice build going btw. I’m most jealous of your rotisserie.
  2. I had one of these I used with my MIG. It is infinitely easier to start a weld with over one that is always dark. It did work mostly fine, except and I"m not sure why, the sensors seemed to not see the arc all the time and I'd get flashed. I've since gotten a TIG and switched to a Jackson Safety helmet and although I've not gotten flashed once, it does cost almost 3 times as much; so you'd have to determine the value in economy for you. Not pooping on your helmet, as I said, I've had one. Just giving my experience with it so you know; mine very well could have been defective.
  3. Thank you. This project is the first I've used a TIG. I have a whole lot of learning to do, I did what you suggested and just spent a bunch of time practicing and screwing up my fair share of things, one being going through a 20L bottle in a few hours because I thought my gas had to be turned up much higher than need (reading too much internet and Youtube). I can say I think TIG is more enjoyable and seems more relaxed and controllable; maybe only now though since I can fninally keep the tip out of the pool haha. One thing I'd love to get is a pedal; I think it'd help to keep things more consistent once the metal heats up so I can lower the amperage instead of having to move much faster.
  4. I think those are 15's above
  5. Thank you. Any suggestions on the welding; I'm always down to try and get better at things.
  6. That's a clean looking slate! As everyone else said, get it on the road as reasonably quick as you can without taking shortcuts that'll bite you later on. Just driving the car does loads to your motivation to get things done with it. It's too easy to get use to it just "sitting in the corner" on of your garage.
  7. Not sure if anybody will read this, just look at the pictures, or scroll past my thread, but I'm going to put my thoughts down. If anything it'll let someone tell me where I may have not thought something out or later on maybe it'll even help someone with their project. Seriously though, I'm up for discussing shit in here. More minds are better than one and I know for sure I don't come up with the best ideas. So today I got one finished up. I went ahead and just started over so I could address a couple things I didn't like on the one above; mainly do to my own lack attention to detail. I switched up a few things with the order of assembly and paid a bit better attention to fit and finish. I'm by no means a fabricator, but I at least want to give it my best attempt. In the end it's just some time and sheet metal. This time around, I moved to createdthe top plate first as a whole unit before putting the sides on. On the previous version I had welded in the strengthening plate for the swaybar area on after the sides. It just didn't give good access to make for a good weld IMO. Also, below you can see the piece of sheet metal coming out the side from the ball joint. This is just a quick mockup so I could get the side notch placement right. This will be the attachment for the TC rod. The final version will be made from plate steel. For the TC rod I have some 25mm chromoly round bar stock that'll get milled into a clevis on one end to attach to the arm and then be turned down and threaded for easy adjustment into a ball joint attachment in on the chassis side. Here's what the "top" assembly looks like with the balljoint "inside". Not that it matters at all because you can't really see them when installed, but I wanted the balljoint inside of the control arm just to clean it up looks wise a little bit. I'll swap the gawdy hardware out for some appropriately sized/spec'd button head allen bolts. So then really after this point, all that was left was making the sides. With the mocked up TC rod attachment point I was able to cut the side of the arm out and notch it prior to welding it on, which worked out well. Also, I worked on better forming this time. The first version ended up with the very end of the control arm being bent down from me using it to pull on to form the metal around the end radius. Honestly, the 2mm drop that was on the non-load bearing tip didn't matter, but it bugged me non-the-less. This time I just paid a little bit more attention to detail and it all ended up square and flat. Just like most you guys, this stuff isn't my day job so it's a figuring out/learning process and I'm OK with that. As long as the results are imporoving in the end, progress is being made. So here's what I ended up with... I'll be happy if the other side turns out this well. I think they look the part and even though it doesn't matter, clean up the packaging of the front suspension a little. The only thing I'm missing on them at this point is two holes in the bottom plate to access the swaybar bolts with a socket (easy fix) and more importantly a tab to mount the height sensor arm to for the air suspension. Once the arms are installed on the car, I'll sort out the bracket for mounting the height sensors then I can sort the tab location on the control arms for the sensor. In this picture you can see the edge of the swaybar area strengthening plate extending into the inside ball joint bolt holes. This is because the top part of the ball joint is not flush. The front bolt holes are thicker on the ball joint since the front bolts thread into the ball joints. Extending the swaybar area strengthening plate also served the purpose of leveling out the ball joint underneath. Here are the final results... I didn't check what the camber was, but it's much more than I'd normally run. This was with the arm extended and the camber plates adjusted to center the air bag in the strut housing. The arm could probably extend farther, but I like to keep 1.5x the thickness of the heim joint threads threaded into the fasteners for safety. To make sure I can easily adhere to this and before I do final install, I'll mark this point so I can visually see it; either red the threads red or score the threads. This picture was with the 15's I got..... and STILL need to freshen up.
  8. Lockleaf is spot on. The moon's the limit, but your budget goes up with more obscure swaps. Try to think of all the small things as well. You'll need wiring stuff, a computer (aftermarket if you don't go with the OE for that engine), most likey custom length driveshaft, then you'll want suspension/brakes to match your new power output. No reason you can't do all this as you go though.
  9. I love seeing this thread pop back up. It's such a beautiful car and I love that you actually use it instead of leaving it hidden away in a dark garage.
  10. ABS would be fine and that gets gloss smooth with acetone vapor as well
  11. You could do the acetone vapor thing too. That will turn it gloss without all the work.
  12. I used my buddies to 3D print a panel out to put gauges in my center console. Nothing fancy. A 3D printer is on my list of things to get. They open up a whole new world.
  13. Ride quality is way too subjective to garner much info from by means of a description online of someone's setup. This is for a myriad of reasons from personal experiences, previous cars driven, to what they want to utilize the car for. There's a ton of variables that go into someone's impression on it. As an example, even tire size and type of tire will effect how it feels. As for the setup you're looking at; I doubt the decreased track width would matter much, if at all. The geometry stays essentially the same as our control arms are the same length and top mount is the at the same point so nothing changes there for geometry as long as you adjust for camber. I can't see a difference between running ZX struts with a wide tire and a lower offset wheel that fills the wheel well vs stock 510 struts and a wide tire on a higher offset wheel that also feels the wheel well. You end up with the same amount of rubber in the exact same location. My car had 5kg (280'ish lb/in?) springs up front when I got it along with Tokiko strut inserts. It wasn't too bad, but I'd say compliantly stiff side. To compensate, I would lower my tire pressure a little and it was fine. With 185/60r14 tires there's enough tire they can act as suspension themselves LOL. The rear springs I have no idea what rate they were, but I think pretty high. The car also had Tokiko shocks in the back but they definitely did not keep up with the spring rate and were, IMO, bouncy and uncontrolled. So as far as suggested spring rates, I see 200-400 recommended by people for in the front. 200 probably being what you would call stock sporty and 400; well I'd imagine pretty stiff. I have also seen people run much higher than that, but I can't see how that would function well on normal streets that aren't always the smoothest. For the rear it's a completely different story as DatzenMike pointed out. You have a leverage advantage from the semi-trailing arm setup so you need a stronger spring. I've seen people using 800-1000lb springs back here (seen being in reference to the internet I have no friends with 510's). Since I have no idea the spring rate of mine, I can't offer you a personal suggestion. I can say though, if you want to save money you can buy a spring twice the length you require and half the spring rate you want and cut it in half. When you cut a spring in half you effectively double it's spring rate. Finally, the other option on the rear is instead of running a divorced shock/spring setup you leave the spring out and run springs on a coilover setup. You can do anything from an out-of-the-box setup from FutoFab, Techno Toy Tuning, Troy Ermish Racing, etc etc etc, to the QA1 setups you can find here on the board via a tutorial or something you come up with yourself. I would suggest though; if at all in your budget, get adjustable dampers. If you get your springs close you can fine tune it with the damper. Additionally, the adjustable dampers will allow you some degree of environmental tuning. On the road you can loosen them up and then if you want to do autocross put them to a stiffer setting. In any case though, best of luck to you and I hope you find or put together a nice setup that will work for you.
  14. That's good to know! Any idea what ballpark this ends up in for camber? For -1.5* mine on camber plates seem to be much more inboard than that (is that a 510 even or did you just post it to show the top mount). Obviously ride height factors into it.
  15. This is true. Also note that if you narrow your track width you should consider adjustable camber plates so that you can bring you camber back in line. Since our cars are a MacPherson setup, the only way to change camber is via control arm length and strut top mount location (adjustable via adjustable camber plates). If you go with an out of the box suspension you'll more than likely end up with camber plates, but if you go with sourcing your own struts and make coilovers as DatsunMike posted, make sure you source some camber plates to complete the setup. Here's some information on dimensions of common strut tube assemblies: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=31438&p=271510&hilit=spindle+angle#p271510
  16. This doesn't really fit in here I guess, but I'm digging it
  17. More specifically I believe that is an AWACS; it looks to have the "dome" on the bottom.
  18. Well got underway on the lower control arms and they seem to be coming together fairly well. They aren't anything fancy, but they should give me the adjustability I need. To finish them up I need to order some new balljoints with a slimmer boot profile. I also spent a couple days ago going through tie rod ends for sizing to use for my TC rods. I'll order them in the next couple days with the ball joints. Then with those items and the control arm tacked up I can attack working on some adjustable TC rods. The plan is to just use some bar stock, a lathe, and a mill. Slowly, but surely I'll get there or I won't 😂 I'm beginning to get use to seeing my car on jackstands. Measured everything a billion times and got the layout down. Everything lined up so I was pretty ecstatic 🙂 All tacked up! The weld-in bung seems like it'll fit just fine so that's good. I'll add some more sway bar lines once they are in and I can determine where the hole for my TC rods will go and also where the hole for me height sensors will be; those two things will take them being on the car though. This should be about what they will look like finished.
  19. BrandonS


    There is a group on Facebook called "Behind the wheel of a 510 Datsun" and the guy that is the admin is from South Africa. I believe there are a few other members from there as well. You may be able to join, post up pictures of your car and ask. Maybe it'll lead to some info for you. Welcome to the group by the way 🙂 Nice car; I've always wondered what a Coupe would look like in Cactus Green.
  20. That's the plan actually. I already have the heim joints, adjusters and weld in bungs. Since my wheels have such a wide range of offsets I needed to make sure that I build them to the correct length to allow an adjustment range that will work with each wheel. The Watanabes will be close. It's hard to pin down since small lengths in a control arm or camber make a huge difference in fit. I'm really hoping they work simply because they are my widest set of wheels. I'll see once I get the control arms cut out and tacked together and can test fit them in the car. I started on that today and hopefully can work on it tomorrow as well. I also need to order the ends and bar stock for my TC rods; I spent the other day sorting that out as well.
  21. All I got done today was playing with the different wheel sets with my camber tool and a measuring tape. Trying to figure out what control arm lengths would put each wheel in the useable range for camber and fit so I know what useable range I need to build into them. It's a bit of a PITA to get it all situated for measuring since I had to disconnect everything to be able to move it around. Still not sure why it took so long other than sometimes I get stuck in a circle of doing the same thing over and over when trying to figure things out, instead of making any real progress. There’s still plenty of space for the bags, but depending on the control arm length dialed in, I’ll have to watch bag clearance and adjust with the camber plates. In the end, I was expecting the Watanabes to not be usable after the brake swap, but with some camber I might be able to get them to work. Sorry for the cell phone pic, didn't feel like running inside for the camera.
  22. Thanks guys! Hopefully I can do the car justice in the end.
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