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    1971 Bluebird Coupe 1800 SSS
  • Occupation
    Aircraft Maintenance

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BrandonS's Achievements


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  1. I think that’s a 2002?
  2. Sometimes they are needed. My Audi TTS has a spoiler that pops up at ~75kph to reduce lift. The owner's manual actually cautions against driving the car at higher speeds if the spoiler has malfunctioned for this reason. I know the first gen ones had a recall done to add a spoiler because they'd lose control on the Autobahn during lane changes due to the lift the body generated. I mean the car's roofline is shaped like a wing though so what can you really expect. As far as spoilers on a 510, the Ecotec one that's raced has a functional spoiler, but it is huge and sticks above the roofline to be in the airstream. I'd say I personally like the look of a small lip spoiler on the back of them and 100% agree it'd be cosmetic only in nature. I've heard of BMW E30 spoilers being fitted, but not sure how well they'd fit in reality.
  3. That’s some good info! To answer your question. The light to the left of the ashtray is the OE fog light switch for the fog light option grill. The cigarette lighter is on the right as you said, but was in the center console when I took the pic. I believe in 71 (the year of mine) the fog switch was always there regardless if you had optioned the car with the fog light grill or not. Along with the switch, the wiring for the grill is also in the engine bay harness already. I swapped over to 9007 headlight housings and use the switch to control the low beam element for the inside lights that have yellow bulbs in. Also, the car Is RHD because I had bought while I lived in Japan. It’s an 1800SSS Coupe so it has the SSS gauges and other SSS bits. I brought it with me to Germany when I had moved. It’ll follow me back to the states when I finally head back.
  4. I think this would be one of those things where you try it, maybe succeed after a bunch of swearing, maybe break some things in the process, and then in the end you'll wish you had taken out the 4 extra bolts.
  5. BrandonS

    T3 Heat Shield

    My car has a similar style shield on it with the SUs. I can't speak for a difference between having it or not having it, but I've had the car out in traffic in 100 deg weather many times and it never vapor locked or anything.
  6. I see you have adjustable TC rods. What do you have your caster set at? Adding more caster will help the car track straighter.
  7. It's literally just taking a medium sized nut off of the steering column, pulling the wheel off (i had to wiggle while pulling for mine) and then putting the new one on and tightening the nut down. If it's the faux wooden one, i'd recommend "restoring" it before you stick it on. It's a really easy process. You just take steel wool scouring pads and scrub it until all the old lacquer comes off. Once that's off you just put a few coats of clear lacquer over it. Done. It's also a good time to repaint the center part. Before: After:
  8. Since you said your car isn't and will not be lowered, I'm assuming you are on stock springs. I'm not sure what diameter stock springs are, but keep in mind when people run camber plates at the top they are almost always running coil overs since it's the easiest solution to lower a 510. Coilovers utilize a significantly narrower spring than stock springs. All that being said, with camber plates and stock springs you may run into the issue where the camber plate has the adjustability, but adjusting it that far will result in the stock spring hitting your strut tower. I'm not sure if this is the case, but I bet it if isn't it'll at least be close. I would do some measuring and if it the springs would hit the strut tower, you're best bet will be the LCA's and camber plates together. This will allow you to increase track width with the LCA which increases camber, then you'd use your camber plates to center the spring in the strut tower so it doesn't rub. Also, if you have a welder you can make your own adjustable LCAs for pretty cheap by cutting the inner bushing off and putting a heim joint in, much like Ermish Racing does.
  9. Just use some sand paper to clear off the corrosion for the time being and it should start functioning again. You can also remove all the rust and then paint them with silver paint and the reflectors will function just fine. Just make sure to clear a spot for the prong again.
  10. If you have headlights that run a modern bulb check that the previous owner didn’t wire the passenger side backward, ie power to high beam filament instead instead of the low beam filament. For the parking light, take the plastic lens off with the two screws and then see if it’s corroded one the inside of the housing. The gaskets first the lenses can fail and water will get in and corrode the housing. The parking/running bulbs rely on a tab pushing against the housing for their ground.
  11. On mine it controls the “map” light above the radio. You can see the switch and the white, rectangular light lens in this pic.
  12. I hope you didn't take that as a slight towards you. It was more of me defending someone just starting out with working on vehicles. Although the compliment is appreciated, in my opinion, I am definitely not in the upper echelons of mechanics. My instagram feed of 510's and other projects people have is an almost limitless source of Vitamin B-Put-In-My-Place. But if you like the Mercedes with the mechanical injectors, just start googling them and learn how they work. I bet in short order you can figure out how they work and build up a pretty good knowledge basis to work on it. Maybe you could get it for a steal based on it's current condition. Be careful though, this is also the same logic that I've used to get myself into horribly chosen projects. Oh to stay on topic a little bit. I scored an AP Suretrac R180 yesterday for $350. Now that the differential I'll run is no longer up in the air, I can start finalizing the ideas I've had in my head. I'm short on time today so I just went about getting rough measurements off my rear control arms. With this I can start drawing out how I'm going to fab the replacements up to handle the air suspension and 4 piston calipers. Truth be told, I'm also really gunning for getting a set of off-the-shelf CV axles to fit. I think I have a 90% chance of it working.
  13. Keep in mind we all learn on something... I'm very much still learning as I work on mine. It was nice of you to help the new owner; kudos to you. Not many would do that these days.
  14. $300, give or take $50 a reasonable median for the price for standard tubing with their crush bent machines. 2" will do you just fine. I went from a 1.75" to a 2.25" mandrel bent exhuast with a magnaflow on my 510 with an L18 and dual SU carbs. I didn't notice any gains except that it got louder and the exhaust pipe would glisten in the sun.
  15. If you want to save a little money but want some Wats, you can always get the standard one piece cast R-type. Just watch the auctions. The prices on them vary A LOT. Also check the size/offset because that usually will push the selling price if it's more desirable. It isn't hard to come by them on a good deal.
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