Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

41 Good

About BrandonS

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Cars
    1971 Bluebird Coupe 1800 SSS
  • Occupation
    Aircraft Maintenance

Recent Profile Visitors

1,031 profile views
  1. BrandonS

    Electronic Distributor Upgrade - Low RPM/Load Misfires

    The engine is the stock engine for my car. 71 510 w/ an L18 w/ SUs (KH510). Passed this thread, I ended up using a Summit coil, much akin to a MSD Blaster 2. I had it wired so it was all receiving 12V when running. The car ran great at speed, but the idle was never very good and the timing was constantly jumping around on it even with the vac advance disconnected. I would put the points distributor back in, put the wiring back through the ballast and the idle would go back to butter smooth (but suffer on the top end). The pedestal was not the matching one for the new distributor. I was able to work what I had with a dremel though and it all worked perfectly; with a timing light it matched up to the points. This will all be for naught this winter when I'll start building and installing a CA18DET I picked up. I just wanted to update the thread in case someone had the same engine/crank pulley as I did. I didn't want any previous information to steer them wrong. I know I couldn't seem to find the info anywhere. Yes you are correct. The problem was that I had no idea with 100% certainty which mark was TDC. I couldn't find anything online and noone that commented here was sure. That left me moving it back and forth trying to feel which "felt best." I just wanted to be sure.
  2. BrandonS

    Electronic Distributor Upgrade - Low RPM/Load Misfires

    Sorry for the resurrection, but if it helps anyone later on that stumbles onto this... I never could get it to idle very well, the distributor always gave me kick back problems on starting and had misfires at idle, but the points distributor had no problem starting or idling great with the same timing dialed in. I’m reasonably sure i had a bad distributor from the get go or at least something screwy with it. It just died a day ago and left me with no spark. Since I could originally find no definitive answer on my timing marks online, to clear up the confusion I left this thread with for anyone that comes across it in the future, and to be prepared for my next step I wanted to be 100% sure of the timing so I did what I should have in the beginning. I popped off the valve cover and aligned the cam for TDC. In the previous pictures TDC is the timing mark with the orange/pink nail polish.
  3. BrandonS

    Bluebirds for Sale

    This was the first car I considered buying when I was in Japan. Didn't know much about 510's and was dead set on a 4dr. This was back in Oct 2016. I have a picture of it sitting with a few other cars I looked at at the time. I actually saw it when I went up later that year to look at an orange coupe. I ultimately didn't buy, but it had a lot of things I didn't like and they wouldn't budge at all on the price.
  4. BrandonS

    A Bird of Prey - Brandon's Bluebird Build

    Thanks Paradime for the info. I’m hoping to swap the cams out for 260/260 Poncams, so here's to hoping the cam towers are fine (Mand I can just push on.
  5. BrandonS

    A Bird of Prey - Brandon's Bluebird Build

    Yes, I’m indifferent to it. The PO put it in. When I’m wearing boots the soles catch on it a lot.
  6. BrandonS

    A Bird of Prey - Brandon's Bluebird Build

    Sorry for the lack of updates, I got SLAMMED with life, so I haven't made boat loads of progress. Since I just got here I've had to start working on getting things I need setup and went to a couple car shows with the car. Mostly, I've mostly been researching and working on my plan forward. I really don't like going at stuff without a 90% solution ahead of time. That being said I've made a little bit of progress forward. Being military you run into situations where some of your things are in storage, back in the United States. So I had to acquire a lot of things again, including jack stands, a floor jack, a work table, and a welder. I already have a MIG in storage in the USA so I decided to go with a TIG welder. It works out because I'll need it for piping/tubing anyway. I decided to go with an Everlast 200DV. It seemed to be a great bang for the buck, gets excellent reviews, and has any feature a person like myself would need. Also, it's important that it can function on 220v and 110v since I'm overseas. Likewise, it was also available for purchase over here; getting larger items can be difficult at times. So I started disassembling the CA18DET as well and stopped once the head was off. It literally sat in the garage like that for a couple months while I was dealing with life stuff. I got off my keester and got back to it today and disassembled the rest of it. The good news is that from what I could see it looks to be simply an old, worn stock motor. I do have a couple concerns I'll mention below. Rod Bearings So I think these look good. Obviously, they are worn, but my perception is they are just old and ready to be replaced. Please let me know if you spot something crazy I need to direct my attention too. Main Bearings These look pretty much just like the rod bearings. Just worn... I think. The throwout bearing is showing copper on both sides, but I do not know if that is normal. The crank turned freely on the stand. Cylinder Bores There was some spots of corrosion, maybe from sitting, but the cross hatching is still there and there wasn't even a ridge at the top of the bore. I have no measured these yet, but would assume them to be stock spec based on the pistons that came out (stock markings). Crank Shaft So the crank didn't have any marring on main or rod journals that I thought was of concern. One concern I did have as where the front and rear seals sit it's grooved. I worry this may lead to sealing issues. Cylinder Head I'm still working on getting this apart, but I did pop the cam tower caps off. I'm fairly concerned about this portion of the engine. The back two towers have grooves in them along with grooves on the camshafts. Also, I some of the cam journals have a "brass" colored stripe going around them. I'll drop it off at the machine shop to have it all checked and worked what needs to be worked with the block, but what is ya'lls impression of this? The "brass" color ring on the journals... The cam journals/caps I am concerned about. (I have not pulled the exhaust side yet to check those). Guages So I also picked up an AEM UEGO guage to help with tuning the carbs and also to use with the new engine. One of my major goals is that I don't want the cars look to depart from stock too much. I want it to be a sleeping giant. Part of that is not have things sticking out all over the interior. I am going to try very hard to keep the stock guages along with anything I add not sticking out. I believe I can do this by adding just a WBO2 and boost guage. The car has the other guages already on the cluster (oil pressure, water temp, fuel, tach, speed). So the plan is to go with "analog" style guages to aid with blending in and then mount them in the center console. I have a buddy that has a 3D printer, so I took some measurements and here is the plan... Test just to see if it physically fits before moving ahead... This peice will be attached to the back of my center consoles cubby hole which the prior owner already cut apart 😕 Once it's, most likely, epoxied on I am hoping to go ahead and flock the inset area to make the finish uniform. The guages will fit like this with a slight angle toward the driver seat... So that's where I'm at for now. Sorry for puking out all the pictures and such into one giant post.
  7. BrandonS

    Forum down today???

    It sure made researching anything Datsun related a bit harder. I kept clicking on Google results and getting a DNS error
  8. BrandonS

    Bluebirds for Sale

    I was trying to get a set of those Bilbos before I left Japan. Nice to see what they look like on a 510; not sure I like it as much as I had thought though.
  9. BrandonS

    Rear Retractable Seatbelts

    I’m guessing since those plugs were in both middle bolt holes my car never had them added. I did get ahold of the Seat Belt Planet guys. I chose them only because they had aviation buckles in black texture finish with chrome sides. In any case, I ran the idea of putting them below the parcel shelf through them. He emailed me back and said he’s pretty sure they have a solution but to call them and discuss it. I’ll give them a call next week and see what they have for an idea and keep this thread all the way to and through installing them.
  10. BrandonS

    Rear Retractable Seatbelts

    Double Posted
  11. BrandonS

    Rear Retractable Seatbelts

    I'm sure most people wanting to do this are aware of all the mounting points. When I was searching threads it would have been nice to have everything in one place, so I'm going to duplicate info into this thread. I took the parcel tray out and removed the top of the rear seat and the fuel cell wall. I found what I believe to be the top anchor (I didn't want to ruin anything being in a rush) and two bottom factory anchors. For anyone looking to do this the bottom internal anchors are plugged, you can see the passenger side is still plugged. So it looks to be pretty straight forward as far as anchors. I am now questioning if my idea would work. I don't know how well the retractable seatbelt mechanism would cope with being 6" away from the shoulder buckle that would be at an angle. Maybe I can mount it slightly foward of the shoulder mount at an angle to match the shoulder mounts angle. I think I'm going to shoot an e-mail to the seatbelt company as well. May as well get their input since they are the experts. I also don't want to just mess this up since my kid is going to be attached to it.
  12. BrandonS

    Rear Retractable Seatbelts

    I need to remove the parcel tray to check if this is feasible, but maybe I can put the retractor down on the floor/trunk pan in front of the gas tank top of the shock brace/wheel well and run it up through a slot in the parcel shelf. Put a shoulder loop on the stock bolt location and run the bottom anchor in behind the bottom cushion and below the top cushion. I need to redo the parcel shelf anyway so I could do that with the seatbelt install. I was thinking run the seatbelt through a grommet like below (maybe I can find a nice aluminum one) and it should look pretty decent. I think this may be the best way forward now that I think about it, but I would like to see what others have come up with as well!
  13. BrandonS

    Rear Retractable Seatbelts

    Has anyone actually done this? I want to push the button and get new seatbelts. My car currently only has two front lap belts and I'd like to safely carry the family around with me (wife and a car seat in the back). I have the front measured and have those squared away, but I can't seem to find any information on standard, retractable, 3 point seat belt being put in the back of a 510. I know there is a mounting hole in the C pillar from the factory. I'm trying to figure out what the setup would look like. I've read speculation that I may have to go with the retractor up at the mounting hole, but would prefer a lower mount. If you've done this or have information it'd be greatly appreciated.
  14. BrandonS

    I like coupes! - Pictures of Bluebird Coupes

    Hey CarterB, you have any pictures of a Coupe in that lighter, pea soup green color?
  15. BrandonS

    DREAM build! 1972 Nissan Skyline GTX "HKOSUKA"

    Awesome story! I can't wait to watch this car get built.

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.