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BrandonS

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About BrandonS

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany
  • Cars
    1971 Bluebird Coupe 1800 SSS
  • Occupation
    Aircraft Maintenance

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  1. I used my buddies to 3D print a panel out to put gauges in my center console. Nothing fancy. A 3D printer is on my list of things to get. They open up a whole new world.
  2. Ride quality is way too subjective to garner much info from by means of a description online of someone's setup. This is for a myriad of reasons from personal experiences, previous cars driven, to what they want to utilize the car for. There's a ton of variables that go into someone's impression on it. As an example, even tire size and type of tire will effect how it feels. As for the setup you're looking at; I doubt the decreased track width would matter much, if at all. The geometry stays essentially the same as our control arms are the same length and top mount is the at the same point so nothing changes there for geometry as long as you adjust for camber. I can't see a difference between running ZX struts with a wide tire and a lower offset wheel that fills the wheel well vs stock 510 struts and a wide tire on a higher offset wheel that also feels the wheel well. You end up with the same amount of rubber in the exact same location. My car had 5kg (280'ish lb/in?) springs up front when I got it along with Tokiko strut inserts. It wasn't too bad, but I'd say compliantly stiff side. To compensate, I would lower my tire pressure a little and it was fine. With 185/60r14 tires there's enough tire they can act as suspension themselves LOL. The rear springs I have no idea what rate they were, but I think pretty high. The car also had Tokiko shocks in the back but they definitely did not keep up with the spring rate and were, IMO, bouncy and uncontrolled. So as far as suggested spring rates, I see 200-400 recommended by people for in the front. 200 probably being what you would call stock sporty and 400; well I'd imagine pretty stiff. I have also seen people run much higher than that, but I can't see how that would function well on normal streets that aren't always the smoothest. For the rear it's a completely different story as DatzenMike pointed out. You have a leverage advantage from the semi-trailing arm setup so you need a stronger spring. I've seen people using 800-1000lb springs back here (seen being in reference to the internet I have no friends with 510's). Since I have no idea the spring rate of mine, I can't offer you a personal suggestion. I can say though, if you want to save money you can buy a spring twice the length you require and half the spring rate you want and cut it in half. When you cut a spring in half you effectively double it's spring rate. Finally, the other option on the rear is instead of running a divorced shock/spring setup you leave the spring out and run springs on a coilover setup. You can do anything from an out-of-the-box setup from FutoFab, Techno Toy Tuning, Troy Ermish Racing, etc etc etc, to the QA1 setups you can find here on the board via a tutorial or something you come up with yourself. I would suggest though; if at all in your budget, get adjustable dampers. If you get your springs close you can fine tune it with the damper. Additionally, the adjustable dampers will allow you some degree of environmental tuning. On the road you can loosen them up and then if you want to do autocross put them to a stiffer setting. In any case though, best of luck to you and I hope you find or put together a nice setup that will work for you.
  3. That's good to know! Any idea what ballpark this ends up in for camber? For -1.5* mine on camber plates seem to be much more inboard than that (is that a 510 even or did you just post it to show the top mount). Obviously ride height factors into it.
  4. This is true. Also note that if you narrow your track width you should consider adjustable camber plates so that you can bring you camber back in line. Since our cars are a MacPherson setup, the only way to change camber is via control arm length and strut top mount location (adjustable via adjustable camber plates). If you go with an out of the box suspension you'll more than likely end up with camber plates, but if you go with sourcing your own struts and make coilovers as DatsunMike posted, make sure you source some camber plates to complete the setup. Here's some information on dimensions of common strut tube assemblies: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=31438&p=271510&hilit=spindle+angle#p271510
  5. This doesn't really fit in here I guess, but I'm digging it
  6. More specifically I believe that is an AWACS; it looks to have the "dome" on the bottom.
  7. Well got underway on the lower control arms and they seem to be coming together fairly well. They aren't anything fancy, but they should give me the adjustability I need. To finish them up I need to order some new balljoints with a slimmer boot profile. I also spent a couple days ago going through tie rod ends for sizing to use for my TC rods. I'll order them in the next couple days with the ball joints. Then with those items and the control arm tacked up I can attack working on some adjustable TC rods. The plan is to just use some bar stock, a lathe, and a mill. Slowly, but surely I'll get there or I won't 😂 I'm beginning to get use to seeing my car on jackstands. Measured everything a billion times and got the layout down. Everything lined up so I was pretty ecstatic 🙂 All tacked up! The weld-in bung seems like it'll fit just fine so that's good. I'll add some more sway bar lines once they are in and I can determine where the hole for my TC rods will go and also where the hole for me height sensors will be; those two things will take them being on the car though. This should be about what they will look like finished.
  8. BrandonS

    Newbie

    There is a group on Facebook called "Behind the wheel of a 510 Datsun" and the guy that is the admin is from South Africa. I believe there are a few other members from there as well. You may be able to join, post up pictures of your car and ask. Maybe it'll lead to some info for you. Welcome to the group by the way 🙂 Nice car; I've always wondered what a Coupe would look like in Cactus Green.
  9. That's the plan actually. I already have the heim joints, adjusters and weld in bungs. Since my wheels have such a wide range of offsets I needed to make sure that I build them to the correct length to allow an adjustment range that will work with each wheel. The Watanabes will be close. It's hard to pin down since small lengths in a control arm or camber make a huge difference in fit. I'm really hoping they work simply because they are my widest set of wheels. I'll see once I get the control arms cut out and tacked together and can test fit them in the car. I started on that today and hopefully can work on it tomorrow as well. I also need to order the ends and bar stock for my TC rods; I spent the other day sorting that out as well.
  10. All I got done today was playing with the different wheel sets with my camber tool and a measuring tape. Trying to figure out what control arm lengths would put each wheel in the useable range for camber and fit so I know what useable range I need to build into them. It's a bit of a PITA to get it all situated for measuring since I had to disconnect everything to be able to move it around. Still not sure why it took so long other than sometimes I get stuck in a circle of doing the same thing over and over when trying to figure things out, instead of making any real progress. There’s still plenty of space for the bags, but depending on the control arm length dialed in, I’ll have to watch bag clearance and adjust with the camber plates. In the end, I was expecting the Watanabes to not be usable after the brake swap, but with some camber I might be able to get them to work. Sorry for the cell phone pic, didn't feel like running inside for the camera.
  11. Thanks guys! Hopefully I can do the car justice in the end.
  12. Without being too long winded, yes I go through a TÜV but it isn't do for 2 years and I've gotten lucky for the last two. My next one will put me close enough to my move date that if they don't like it I'll deregister the car and put the L series motor back in. I will have to reinstall that motor to meet import rules. The two TÜVs I've done so far though, they haven't had a problem with anything and that's with the coilovers on it, the 2.5" exhaust I made, and 200sx/DR30 brakes up front. The inspector was actually super stoked to see it and had his friends kid take pictures because "this is the only time you'll ever see one." It was a good experience. This is another reason I"m trying to not change anything on the actual car. I'll do the same for the wiring so I can have 2 harnesses that will work with the inside wiring for both engines. The cops, well they aren't all over like in the USA. They also don't randomly pull you over. The Bluebird isn't super loud, it doesn't sit very low now and won't with the air suspension on so there really isn't anything visual or auditory that would trigger them to look into things further.
  13. Thank you, I was beginning to think I was doing something horribly wrong with noone chiming in. Hopefully I can keep the quality to a point it doesn't detract from the car.
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