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About BrandonS

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    Advanced Member

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  • Cars
    1971 Bluebird Coupe 1800 SSS
  • Occupation
    Aircraft Maintenance

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  1. I love wheels, it's a pitty they cost so much sometimes; especially after tires are added. Currently running 14" Riverside R109s that I restored. Next up is a pair of 15" Work Venette Vegas; I'm still beside myself on a color. I want to repolish the barrels and then sand down/polish the spokes like I did my Riversides. The bolts are giving me a hard time though so I just ordered and received an impact driver to try and break them free. After that, I need to paint my standard issue 14" Watanabes; I believe i'll go with a dark bronze on those.
  2. Well winter has pretty much gone ? and I've gotten nothing done. The engine block was dropped off 3 weeks ago at the machine shop and when I went in earlier this week, they still haven't gotten to it. Without knowing the game plan for the block, I'm up the river as far as ordering parts. I did however finally decide on a suspension setup. I kept going back and forth on what I wanted to do. I went from Koni race front/QA1 coilover rear, but I'm super matchy matchy in my head so I couldn't do it. I even called BC Racing to get directions/dimensions to retrofit their S13 stuff. It would have all worked great, except the rears were going to be too long. I also considered going w/ CXRacing, but lack of guarantee of quality... I just couldn't do. In the end, I went with what I had always been floating around in the back of my head; air. Initially, I was going to go it alone, but needed a few things cleared up before settling on a setup. I really don't want to do things twice, it's just not the type of person I am. So before ordering from places all over the web, I decided to shoot Phil at @twistedimages a PM on Facebook. He answered very quickly, was very knowledgeable, and a very nice guy. He verified a few things for me and also gave me a few recommendations. In the end, I ended up piecing together a system, but he was more than willing to work with me on that. The overall plan is that I want to have my cake and eat it too. I want to be able to air the system up and make it stiff, but not sit at a ridiculously high stance when I do it. I also want to be able to let some air out and have a comfortable ride. I believe pairing the air with the Konis and at least a coilover setup in the front will accomplish both of these things. Also check out below for my plan for the controller setup, because that's a huge portion of this plan. In the end the setup should look like this for suspension: Front: I'm going to utilize my existing 200SX struts w/ coilovers already on them Koni 8610-1436 Race inserts UAS AeroSport Bags Rear: Koni 1186-8041SPORT // From a Mustang, but came across them on E30 groups. For my car I'll have to get a new bottom bushing or put a new pin in the trailing arms. If memory serves me, the bushing is 12mm on these, but my 510 is 16mm. Slam Specialties SS-5 Bags TwistedImages upper/lower bag mount kit Air System: Viair 480C 4gal Tank AccuAir VX4 Controller: So this is where it'll get a little more interesting. There are off the shelf systems, but I want a little more than they offer so I'm going to go it alone. The plan is to go with an Arduino Mega and write the software. I have pressure sensors for each bag and one for the tank, as well as, height sensors. I utilized BMW/Mini headlight leveling sensors because they are readily available so if one craps out, it'll be easily replaced. The overall plan for the system will be to have set presets. At first, I want it to be controlled with a single push button. The thought is a long press will air out or go to previous ride setting, obviously based on what state it is in when you do that. Then if you click it a number of times it'll go to that preset. 1 short click, preset 1, 2 short clicks, preset 2, etc. Super easy. Down the road I'm thinking I'd like to make an app and use an old Android phone via bluetooth. So the reason why I am making my own is that I also plan to incorporate stepper motors onto the tops of the Konis, front and rear. This setup would give me control of both rebound stiffness as well as spring stiffness. It'll be a bit of an undertaking, but I don't see it as nonviable by any means. It's just reading sensor inputs, actuating valves for air, stepper motors for struts and monitoring the sensors to make it all come together. Fairly straight forward. *I know, not a Mega. Nor is this the setup I will run. I was just playing around. It's fairly easy to read the sensor and "actuate" the green/red LED based on the height sensor and if it needs to go up (green) or down (red). This is very similar the same as actuating the valves, minus the circuity involved to do so. So small update, tons of words, and no actual work, but this is where I'm at. I've really been toiling inside over what do do for the suspension and it's nice to have a path forward. I still need to pick out brake calipers front and rear (still considering Wilwood Powerlites) and also determine what I'm going to do about the trailing arms and axles; I think I'm going to end up moving the hubs in 1" or so. At this point I think the engine going in will get pushed off until this next winter, but I think having things how I want them and doing it once is more important than finishing it quickly and it being a forever project with changes along each step.
  3. Wow it's super rare to see swapped cars in Japan!
  4. These are neat looking too. DH-106 Comet with it's exploding square windows.
  5. I don't have it anymore, sold it when I went to Japan. I'm not sure if I'm glad I did or not, I really liked it. And to keep it remotely on topic, here's a pic of a Coupe. A repost from another topic, but have to stay on topic somehow.
  6. This blue color on a 510 ? It reminds me of my Cavalry Blue FJ.
  7. A quick down and dirty edit, but you get the point...
  8. This is true, I updated above to reflect this.
  9. I apologize if I’m way off base, but this is what I understand from quickly looking at the wiring diagrams. I also checked on my car and the fender indicators only flash with the turn signals/hazards and do not come on at all with the headlights. Looking at the wiring diagrams I suspect yours to act the same, however my car is not US Spec. The headlight system is ground switched meaning that 12V always sits on the circuit/bulbs and a ground is made at the switch to complete the circuit. The other lights (as Mike states below) are the opposite and switch 12V power with a constant ground. If everything is working fine until you turn on the headlights and then your indicators light up, it sounds like you have a short between your headlight circuit and the indicator circuit. The side markers lighting up when your headlights are on is indication that your headlight circuit is providing 12V to your indicator circuit (aka short between the circuits) which in turn utilizes that circuits built in ground. The turn signals won’t work then because that circuit already has the 12V that the flasher would be providing and the lights are already on. I see you said you were doing a resto. I am not sure what all you have touched but at first narrow the scope of your inspection to the areas you touched. If you didn’t remove your dash or touch wiring in it do not start by ripping away at things in there looking for the problem. Only after elimination of the areas you worked in should you dig deeper. In regards to areas you were working in, at first I would inspect connectors as these are the most handled items so they are more susceptible to damage from flexing, tugging and such. Next look for exterior damage on your wiring bundle (chafing, pinch points, etc). If you find any peel back the tape/wrap and check for damage to the wires’ insulation. Also, if there are any crimps in the system look those over for any wires that may have escaped them. Then slowly widen your scope as you eliminate areas. Past visible inspection you’ll need some sort of device to test with, like a multimeter.
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