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Crashtd420

A 521 in Massachusetts

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I bought a cheap ($5) cup holder from PepBoys, and used some industrial velcro to stick it to the vinyl liner on top of the trans tunnel just in front of the shifter. Works great. I did have to mod it a little bit so that it would sit flat, but all it took was a pair of tin snips. 

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55 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I am having a friend machine some cupholders out of HDPE (or some other similar material) for a Land Cruiser I am building. They are going to be pretty generic, machined for two cups. If you like, I can get you a pic and a price when they're done.

I wouldn't mind seeing what they are gonna do for you... thanks.....

I honestly don't know where I'm going to try to put them..... I would like to make a console or something to go around the shifter with a place for my phone and possibly the cup holders, but as we all know there is just not alot of spare room..

    I have thought about doing something between the bucket seats but I half ass made it a bench with a 3rd seat belt so my wife and kid can all ride with me..... I may have to wait till he out grows that spot...

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13 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

I bought a cheap ($5) cup holder from PepBoys, and used some industrial velcro to stick it to the vinyl liner on top of the trans tunnel just in front of the shifter. Works great. I did have to mod it a little bit so that it would sit flat, but all it took was a pair of tin snips. 

I have thought about that also, just haven't gotten off my ass to look into it.... usually the only drink that is allowed in my truck has a twist top...  Right now what I do if I want my morning coffee is keep my tool bag on the passenger floor with a cone k&n filter in it upside down.. fits the mug nice.... 

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Cup holders are nice, I cram my coffees between the door and bench seat which works fine till you forget and open the door. 

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7 minutes ago, bilzbobaggins said:

Cup holders are nice, I cram my coffees between the door and bench seat which works fine till you forget and open the door. 

Atleast it ends up outside.....

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Did you guys see that new Top Gear with the Nissan leaf that had gullwing doors? When he opened the door, the coke he had in the door panel cupholder spilled. Funny shit.

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17 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Did you guys see that new Top Gear with the Nissan leaf that had gullwing doors? When he opened the door, the coke he had in the door panel cupholder spilled. Funny shit.

Did you see the Nissan leaf race car.....

I think they only used the batteries and electric motors.... rest of the car is carbon fiber and tube chassis I believe....

 

Screenshot-20190813-140217-Chrome.jpg

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Today was one of those days I wish I had the ac charged already.....

Driving home I got stuck in a mile or so long back up, heading up hill...... sounds like a story my old man should be telling.....

 

Any how that was probably the longest time and hottest day the datsun ever had to crawl along... I had my distributor app active on my phone and I can see the distributor temperature on it.....

While it did rise it never went past 170-175.... usually i see it around 140-150... and once I got moving again it went back down..... coolant system stayed rock steady. It may have gone up slightly but not enough to care.... 

 

I call that a good test of things, no over heating other than myself and no issue with the carburetor or fuel system which is good to know since I wanna be able drive it in hotter weather with the ac running.....

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So after looking around I decided I'm gonna invest in an oil filter relocation kit vs just a sandwich in between the block and filter.... 

I found one that has the 3/4-16 threads and had 2 - 1/8npt ports also..... 

 

Screenshot-20190817-151813-e-Bay.jpg

 

What I am wondering is would it be beneficial to plum a small oil cooler to it while I'm at it?

I was looking at just a thin 7 row ....

 

Screenshot-20190817-151845-e-Bay.jpg

 

It's not that much more money to get 2 extra fittings and a little more hose... but would it be worth it?

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I have never felt that street driven L motors need an oil cooler. Can't hurt, but definitely not required.

 

Why do you want to relocate the filter?

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2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I have never felt that street driven L motors need an oil cooler. Can't hurt, but definitely not required.

 

Why do you want to relocate the filter?

To eliminate all that stuff hanging off the oil sender hole on the block.....

This way the block sender will feed the oil spray bar and the relocation part has 2- 1/8 npt holes for the pressure gauge and the dash light switch.....

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Oh and I'm not gonna bother with the cooler... your right not really needed.... 

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I think you're going the long way around to get the oil sender situation fixed. Besides, the oil galley that feeds the PSI gauge is the same galley as one of the two in the oil filter boss, so you won't notice any change at all with the spray bar.

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10 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I think you're going the long way around to get the oil sender situation fixed. Besides, the oil galley that feeds the PSI gauge is the same galley as one of the two in the oil filter boss, so you won't notice any change at all with the spray bar.

Depends on which situation you mean.... I understand pressure is pressure regardless where I check it.....

The bad readings on the gauge I'm sure is just a poor quality sender....

 

I have already developed a tiny leak where all the stuff I'd connected so im trying to simplify things and make the fitting location more rigid....

 

I thought about a remote block for the sending units but then i thought relocating the oil filter would be a little better..... 

This will also allow me to get back to running a larger filter too.. currently I run a shorter one due to my engine mounts....

 

 

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Well I was thinking about the oil sender and figured they are cheap enough, I could just try a new one.... upon looking for a replacement I realized that the 2 wires going to the back were not as I thought.... 

 

1 wire is the pressure reading while the 2nd wire which i thought was a ground supply was infact a  low pressure signal to the light on the gauge..... oops....

 

When I got home I was hoping to find the sensor not properly grounded but it was..... so that's not an issue.... I think I will buy a new sender and see what happens.....

 

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Happy to say a new oil pressure sending unit seems to have been a good idea...

I still want to let It warm up completely to see what the idle pressure is but so far the new sender is reading higher....

I had around 50-60 on startup and saw as high as 70 with some rpm...

Even before the highest i ever saw was 50... so I think i will be good...

I also gave my o2 sensor a recalibration, it was acting a little wierd the other day.. crusing on the highway no change in throttle or anything the gauge would flicker lean for a fraction of a second and then back... they say you should after 3 months and it's been alot longer then that.... even the first recalibration didnt take properly so I did it again and it stabilized itself.....

Hopefully that's all good.... 

And 3 more days till functional air conditioning.... crossing fingers I dont have any leaks..... 

 

 

 

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My oil sender reads about the same. If it’s really hot, at 1000rpm I still get about 35. It seems a little high to me.

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10 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

My oil sender reads about the same. If it’s really hot, at 1000rpm I still get about 35. It seems a little high to me.

That's about what I'm expecting once hot and I dont think 35 is high for idle.. my Chevy idles at 40 and goes up to 60 while driving....

I'm just glad to have something that seems closer to accurate... it kept driving me crazy seeing it go to zero at a stop light even though I knew i had good pressure. .... 

Hopefully tomorrow I can take it out for a ride.... 

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Well the idle pressure seemed to settle around 20 once warm and with the spray bar connected... same readings with the manual gauge..... and I still show 70 psi while running so that's good....

 

So I plugged the output to the spray bar and I instantly gained 25 psi to put the idle pressure at 45.....

So my question is should I worry about that? 

Should I, or could I  add a restrictor to the spray bar some how?

 

 

 

 

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My guess would be that it takes that much oil pressure to make the spray bar work properly, if you add a restrictor, it may not work properly, it may become a dribble instead of a spray.

 

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That's what most people do. But really it's just idle and very low RPMs that it's 20. Just how much oil is enough with a spray bar???

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56 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Just how much oil is enough with a spray bar???

That's kind of what I dont know.....

 

It came with the valve cover years ago.... only since the rebuild have i tried to make it functional.....

 

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1 hour ago, wayno said:

My guess would be that it takes that much oil pressure to make the spray bar work properly, if you add a restrictor, it may not work properly, it may become a dribble instead of a spray.

 

 

I'm Really not sure..... but for now I figure I'd rather have the pressure up  feeding what the factory intended and sacrifice (for lack of a better word) the spray bar....

The Cam still gets oil, so as long as I dont ruin anything I'll work my way through this.

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