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A 521 in Massachusetts


Crashtd420

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So anyhow I did make a restrictor....

I decided to try it.....

 

I got lucky and the diameter inside the fitting was perfect size to tap 1/8npt...

 

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The hole diameter of the fitting was .200.... so I drilled an 1/8 npt plug with a .100 hole to start...

 

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Ended up with this....

 

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This increase my idle pressure from 20 to 30 - 35psi.... 

 

Now I wish there was a way to see what the spray bar is actually doing now.... 

I might try peaking in through the filler covered with a rag.....

 

 

 

 

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The L16/L18/L20b block don't come with spray bars from the factory as far as I know and they run fine, I beat the shit out of that L20b in my work truck for over 10 years, and I have beat the shit out of my LZ23 for 8 years so far without any issues since installing an ARP head stud kit, none of my engines have screwed up the cam, but I use stock L20b cams.

I do not recall what cam you have now, as I recall your the one with the built L16 with pop up/domed pistons, you may be running a radical cam and i know nothing about radical type stuff and what it needs or don't need.

 

I just seen you made a restrictor and it appears to work fine, good job!!! 

Edited by wayno
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31 minutes ago, wayno said:

The L16/L18/L20b block don't come with spray bars from the factory as far as I know and they run fine, I beat the shit out of that L20b in my work truck for over 10 years, and I have beat the shit out of my LZ23 for 8 years so far without any issues since installing an ARP head stud kit, none of my engines have screwed up the cam, but I use stock L20b cams.

I do not recall what cam you have now, as I recall your the one with the built L16 with pop up/domed pistons, you may be running a radical cam and i know nothing about radical type stuff and what it needs or don't need.

 

I just seen you made a restrictor and it appears to work fine, good job!!! 

Yes I'm the one with the built L16 as you described, and no spray bars are not factory, .... cam is mild with upgraded springs.... 

I'll admit the spray bar is more of a novalty but if I have it I'd like it to work as it should .....

And yes I'm happy with the restrictor....

Edited by Crashtd420
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25 minutes ago, greenthumb said:

nice work getting it sorted. Still, at idle 20ish psi is more than enough for the puny loads the engine is generating at that rpm. as long as it jumps when its revved up, I'm confident you would have been fine without the restrictor. Still, now you have peace of mind, so carry on

I just didnt like the pressure difference...

20 at idle then up to 70... 

Plus once I saw the difference without the spray bar I knew I didnt want to leave it alone....

And yes this was all about piece of mind... 

 

I almost dont wanna touch it now to eventually add the oil filter relocation kit... 

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

iW0NP1I.jpg

 

See that little hole? That's the oil jet or restrictor in the block that feeds oil up to the valve train in the head. Is you're still working in addition the the spray bar???

Yes that is still working.... I made sure that was clean , and I sent air through it during the rebuild.... 

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Z car L6s came with spray bars and they feed through the block. Do you need one with a "mild cam and upgraded springs"? Probably not. Is the pressure drop something to worry about? Not usually. Race engines have been using spray bars for decades, even before everyone was using dry sump pumps.

 

When I was learning to build engines, Dave Rebello explained to me that since it is outside the main oiling circuit and it shares the circuit with the PSI gauge the pressure drop is only at the gauge. The main oil galleys in the block are still getting their allotted oil volume/pressure.

 

That said, I also learned to make a restrictor out of an aluminum rivet. You remove the nail from the rivet and place the rivet inside the AN connection. It forms to the taper of the fitting and seals tight, because it's aluminum.

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And after all that i am right back to where I started..... starting to really hate that pressure gauge and sender....

 

When I got off the highway today it dropped to zero, so I decided to take a peak in while it was warm and still running..... I could see oil coming out of the spray bar and my idiot light never comes on so I'm not sure , then it slowly started to creep up into the teens while idling....

 

I verified it was grounded, even added an extra ground to the body of the sender, and no difference.....

 

Just now I installed a mechanical gauge instead of the spray bar .... 

The 2 gauges did not read the same... wtf.... the electric read high and dropped at a faster rate once warmed up... at least the mechanical one still showed about 25 - 30.... 

 

I might do a smaller restrictor and see what happens.... or just plug the damn spray bar and be done with it for now...

 

My biggest concern is robbing the bottom end of oil, but I know even when the electric gauge said zero I still had oil flow so I dont know what to say....

 

Oh ya I do... "friends dont let friends buy cheap gauges" 

Yes even the mechanical gauge is a cheap one.....

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

The PSI sender and gauge IS on the main oil circuit or what use is it??? It doesn't just read the pressure to the head but anything after the oil filter which includes EVERYTHING that is oiled. 

I don't know Mike.

 

The spray bar is a branch off the main oil galley. It it has an open un-metered end (which it does not), it should not affect the main bearing oil flow. Or at least not enough to matter.

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Ok couldn't wait.... wife got home and I was able to go for another 5 minute ride before the truck cooled off...

Gauge was telling me 24- 26 at a stop light.... I'll see what happens by the time I get to work tomorrow.... that's a nice 20 minute ride.... when I get off the highway will be the true test if I can live with it for now... 

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10 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I don't know Mike.

 

The spray bar is a branch off the main oil galley. It it has an open un-metered end (which it does not), it should not affect the main bearing oil flow. Or at least not enough to matter.

 

I wish I could see the oil flow at the mains to be sure..... 

 

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Well after a nice ride to work for the first time the gauge did not drop to zero as I came to the stop light off the highway.....

Said about 16 - 20, but at 20 the idiot light on the electric gauge comes on and I dont like seeing that damn little red light, I suppose I could disconnect that wire at the sender.... sender has 2 wires, the pressure and the red light...

I'm thinking a .040 size restrictor hole will get keep me in the 20s at idle.... 

 

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1 minute ago, wayno said:

How long had you been driving that truck now?

You didn't have oil pressure issues before that I recall, what has changed since then?

 

 

Trucks been running since last summer.....

Earlier this year I broke the other oil pressure sensor and this was the replacement setup.... 

 

While I've always been certain I have good oil pressure the gauge has never really been reading correctly...

 

I always kind of just said whatever since the idiot light never comes on and I could still see oil flowing.....

 

I just got a hair across my ass about it so I finally started looking at it..... 

 

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After pulling the vacuum and charging the system there was still a small leak from that one bulkhead fitting..... 

I was able to hold it still on the inside while they tightened it and then it was good to go....

 

Then came the moment of truth.....

 

And fail......

 

But only temporarily,  the belt was slipping so we couldn't see if it would get cold or not.....

 

Well as soon as I got home I corrected that issue and now I have a fully functional air conditioning system.....

 

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22 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

After pulling the vacuum and charging the system there was still a small leak from that one bulkhead fitting..... 

I was able to hold it still on the inside while they tightened it and then it was good to go....

 

Then came the moment of truth.....

 

And fail......

 

But only temporarily,  the belt was slipping so we couldn't see if it would get cold or not.....

 

Well as soon as I got home I corrected that issue and now I have a fully functional air conditioning system.....

 

Some time before winter I hope. 

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I also put the restrictor with a .040 hole in and I can still see oil coming from the spray bar.... so I'll see how it behaves now...

 

Back to an ac question...

The one thing I noticed is a slight rpm drop when the compressor turns on.... only about 150-200 rpm...

I believe that's normal but I'm wondering is there a way to combat that other then just turning the idle up a little?? 

Current I turned it up to 800 rpm....

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