Jump to content
Crashtd420

A 521 in Massachusetts

Recommended Posts

So anyhow I did make a restrictor....

I decided to try it.....

 

I got lucky and the diameter inside the fitting was perfect size to tap 1/8npt...

 

20190825-145334.jpg

 

20190825-145305.jpg

 

The hole diameter of the fitting was .200.... so I drilled an 1/8 npt plug with a .100 hole to start...

 

20190825-145745.jpg

 

20190825-145400.jpg

 

Ended up with this....

 

20190825-145821.jpg

 

This increase my idle pressure from 20 to 30 - 35psi.... 

 

Now I wish there was a way to see what the spray bar is actually doing now.... 

I might try peaking in through the filler covered with a rag.....

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post

Got lucky, I had a direct line of sight to one of the outputs of the spray bar and the restrictor is not an issue....

I saw a nice stream of oil coming out just idling.. 

Share this post


Link to post

Oh almost forgot...

Of course after messing with the sensors and fittings I had a leak .... 

Luckily by the time I was done I was able to get it to all seal up.....

Back to being leak free, I think....

Share this post


Link to post

The L16/L18/L20b block don't come with spray bars from the factory as far as I know and they run fine, I beat the shit out of that L20b in my work truck for over 10 years, and I have beat the shit out of my LZ23 for 8 years so far without any issues since installing an ARP head stud kit, none of my engines have screwed up the cam, but I use stock L20b cams.

I do not recall what cam you have now, as I recall your the one with the built L16 with pop up/domed pistons, you may be running a radical cam and i know nothing about radical type stuff and what it needs or don't need.

 

I just seen you made a restrictor and it appears to work fine, good job!!! 

Edited by wayno
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

nice work getting it sorted. Still, at idle 20ish psi is more than enough for the puny loads the engine is generating at that rpm. as long as it jumps when its revved up, I'm confident you would have been fine without the restrictor. Still, now you have peace of mind, so carry on

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
31 minutes ago, wayno said:

The L16/L18/L20b block don't come with spray bars from the factory as far as I know and they run fine, I beat the shit out of that L20b in my work truck for over 10 years, and I have beat the shit out of my LZ23 for 8 years so far without any issues since installing an ARP head stud kit, none of my engines have screwed up the cam, but I use stock L20b cams.

I do not recall what cam you have now, as I recall your the one with the built L16 with pop up/domed pistons, you may be running a radical cam and i know nothing about radical type stuff and what it needs or don't need.

 

I just seen you made a restrictor and it appears to work fine, good job!!! 

Yes I'm the one with the built L16 as you described, and no spray bars are not factory, .... cam is mild with upgraded springs.... 

I'll admit the spray bar is more of a novalty but if I have it I'd like it to work as it should .....

And yes I'm happy with the restrictor....

Edited by Crashtd420

Share this post


Link to post
25 minutes ago, greenthumb said:

nice work getting it sorted. Still, at idle 20ish psi is more than enough for the puny loads the engine is generating at that rpm. as long as it jumps when its revved up, I'm confident you would have been fine without the restrictor. Still, now you have peace of mind, so carry on

I just didnt like the pressure difference...

20 at idle then up to 70... 

Plus once I saw the difference without the spray bar I knew I didnt want to leave it alone....

And yes this was all about piece of mind... 

 

I almost dont wanna touch it now to eventually add the oil filter relocation kit... 

Share this post


Link to post

iW0NP1I.jpg

 

See that little hole? That's the oil jet or restrictor in the block that feeds oil up to the valve train in the head. Is you're still working in addition the the spray bar???

Share this post


Link to post
1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

iW0NP1I.jpg

 

See that little hole? That's the oil jet or restrictor in the block that feeds oil up to the valve train in the head. Is you're still working in addition the the spray bar???

Yes that is still working.... I made sure that was clean , and I sent air through it during the rebuild.... 

Share this post


Link to post

Z car L6s came with spray bars and they feed through the block. Do you need one with a "mild cam and upgraded springs"? Probably not. Is the pressure drop something to worry about? Not usually. Race engines have been using spray bars for decades, even before everyone was using dry sump pumps.

 

When I was learning to build engines, Dave Rebello explained to me that since it is outside the main oiling circuit and it shares the circuit with the PSI gauge the pressure drop is only at the gauge. The main oil galleys in the block are still getting their allotted oil volume/pressure.

 

That said, I also learned to make a restrictor out of an aluminum rivet. You remove the nail from the rivet and place the rivet inside the AN connection. It forms to the taper of the fitting and seals tight, because it's aluminum.

Share this post


Link to post

The PSI sender and gauge IS on the main oil circuit or what use is it??? It doesn't just read the pressure to the head but anything after the oil filter which includes EVERYTHING that is oiled. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

And after all that i am right back to where I started..... starting to really hate that pressure gauge and sender....

 

When I got off the highway today it dropped to zero, so I decided to take a peak in while it was warm and still running..... I could see oil coming out of the spray bar and my idiot light never comes on so I'm not sure , then it slowly started to creep up into the teens while idling....

 

I verified it was grounded, even added an extra ground to the body of the sender, and no difference.....

 

Just now I installed a mechanical gauge instead of the spray bar .... 

The 2 gauges did not read the same... wtf.... the electric read high and dropped at a faster rate once warmed up... at least the mechanical one still showed about 25 - 30.... 

 

I might do a smaller restrictor and see what happens.... or just plug the damn spray bar and be done with it for now...

 

My biggest concern is robbing the bottom end of oil, but I know even when the electric gauge said zero I still had oil flow so I dont know what to say....

 

Oh ya I do... "friends dont let friends buy cheap gauges" 

Yes even the mechanical gauge is a cheap one.....

Share this post


Link to post

Well it's back together.... again.   

I have a .060 hole in the restrictor now... I still see good flow coming from the spray bar so again I'll see how that does.... 

Share this post


Link to post
1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

The PSI sender and gauge IS on the main oil circuit or what use is it??? It doesn't just read the pressure to the head but anything after the oil filter which includes EVERYTHING that is oiled. 

I don't know Mike.

 

The spray bar is a branch off the main oil galley. It it has an open un-metered end (which it does not), it should not affect the main bearing oil flow. Or at least not enough to matter.

Share this post


Link to post

Ok couldn't wait.... wife got home and I was able to go for another 5 minute ride before the truck cooled off...

Gauge was telling me 24- 26 at a stop light.... I'll see what happens by the time I get to work tomorrow.... that's a nice 20 minute ride.... when I get off the highway will be the true test if I can live with it for now... 

Share this post


Link to post
10 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I don't know Mike.

 

The spray bar is a branch off the main oil galley. It it has an open un-metered end (which it does not), it should not affect the main bearing oil flow. Or at least not enough to matter.

 

I wish I could see the oil flow at the mains to be sure..... 

 

Share this post


Link to post

Well after a nice ride to work for the first time the gauge did not drop to zero as I came to the stop light off the highway.....

Said about 16 - 20, but at 20 the idiot light on the electric gauge comes on and I dont like seeing that damn little red light, I suppose I could disconnect that wire at the sender.... sender has 2 wires, the pressure and the red light...

I'm thinking a .040 size restrictor hole will get keep me in the 20s at idle.... 

 

Share this post


Link to post

How long had you been driving that truck now?

You didn't have oil pressure issues before that I recall, what has changed since then?

 

Share this post


Link to post
1 minute ago, wayno said:

How long had you been driving that truck now?

You didn't have oil pressure issues before that I recall, what has changed since then?

 

 

Trucks been running since last summer.....

Earlier this year I broke the other oil pressure sensor and this was the replacement setup.... 

 

While I've always been certain I have good oil pressure the gauge has never really been reading correctly...

 

I always kind of just said whatever since the idiot light never comes on and I could still see oil flowing.....

 

I just got a hair across my ass about it so I finally started looking at it..... 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Getting the air conditioning charged today.. fingers crossed.. one of the only times the datsun goes to the mechanics..

 

20190827-121638.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

One leak on a bulk head fitting.... snugged up the fitting and we are back on track....

Pulling a vacuum again..... at least it wasnt the crimps..... 

Share this post


Link to post

After pulling the vacuum and charging the system there was still a small leak from that one bulkhead fitting..... 

I was able to hold it still on the inside while they tightened it and then it was good to go....

 

Then came the moment of truth.....

 

And fail......

 

But only temporarily,  the belt was slipping so we couldn't see if it would get cold or not.....

 

Well as soon as I got home I corrected that issue and now I have a fully functional air conditioning system.....

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
22 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

After pulling the vacuum and charging the system there was still a small leak from that one bulkhead fitting..... 

I was able to hold it still on the inside while they tightened it and then it was good to go....

 

Then came the moment of truth.....

 

And fail......

 

But only temporarily,  the belt was slipping so we couldn't see if it would get cold or not.....

 

Well as soon as I got home I corrected that issue and now I have a fully functional air conditioning system.....

 

Some time before winter I hope. 

Share this post


Link to post
3 minutes ago, Greaser2 said:

Some time before winter I hope. 

Just had to get the belt squared away, it all good and cold in there now.... 

atleast it's ready for next year....

Share this post


Link to post

I also put the restrictor with a .040 hole in and I can still see oil coming from the spray bar.... so I'll see how it behaves now...

 

Back to an ac question...

The one thing I noticed is a slight rpm drop when the compressor turns on.... only about 150-200 rpm...

I believe that's normal but I'm wondering is there a way to combat that other then just turning the idle up a little?? 

Current I turned it up to 800 rpm....

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.