Gradyfest Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Does anybody else run coolant filters on their rigs? I'm putting together the hardware I need to install one on my Datsun still, but I have installed two on F250s that I have. One a big gasser the other a diesel. I cut them open afterwards and am always surprised at what is in there. The first one had a teaspoon of casting sand easily (I change the first one at around 500 miles.) The following two also still had sand in them. Little pieces of RTV from old jobs and other mystery particles could be seen as well. Does anybody else have experience with filtering their coolant? I'm sold 100% and recommend to all my friends that work on their own vehicles to install one. People wonder why water pumps go bad and heater cores plug up. Can be done for under a hundered bucks. 2 Link to comment
Rjawm Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 I'd be curious to see your parts list and, I know this sounds crazy for here on Ratsun, some pics would be great. Link to comment
Jester Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Agreed. You should do a little more posting on this here. Share some pics and tell us about them. Maybe you could do a how to writeup on the issue. I'm curious as to what your runnning for a filter/housing? Link to comment
Draker Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Pics, more info. Go! Link to comment
Profile Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Its all on http://www.ganofilters.com Link to comment
chandlerGTi Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 I work on semis and there are very few that DONT have coolant filters, little different situation with wet liners though. Even on a small engine it will contain at more deleterious than you would expect. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 There are ten of millions of passenger vehicles without them and they are fine their whole life. Bad water pumps are always the seal or the bearing. Rads and heaters almost never ever clog up and if they do, it's from 40 years of people topping up with mineralized 'hard' tap water or not using or not changing their anti freeze solutions causing crusty scale to form. Casting sand, if any, usually stays right where it is in the bottom of the block cavities. I don't see the need for a catch can either, but to each their own.... it would, on the face of it, appear to remove foreign material that is circulating, but being a filter does it restrict circulation? could it be small enough to get clogged? Does it actually do any good or does it just look good? Coolant systems may have all kinds of 'stuff' floating around that we are oblivious to and would continue to work fine. Is it worth the cost and bother for what little it does? 1 Link to comment
Rjawm Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 There are ten of millions of passenger vehicles without them and they are fine their whole life. Bad water pumps are always the seal or the bearing. Rads and heaters almost never ever clog up and if they do, it's from 40 years of people topping up with mineralized 'hard' tap water or not using or not changing their anti freeze solutions causing crusty scale to form. Casting sand, if any, usually stays right where it is in the bottom of the block cavities. I don't see the need for a catch can either, but to each their own.... it would, on the face of it, appear to remove foreign material that is circulating, but being a filter does it restrict circulation? could it be small enough to get clogged? Does it actually do any good or does it just look good? Coolant systems may have all kinds of 'stuff' floating around that we are oblivious to and would continue to work fine. Is it worth the cost and bother for what little it does? Yes, because 3 of the failed/plugged heater cores I've had to replace couldn't have been from a PO's extreme overuse of RTV, no way that could've happened. Or god forbid I'm interested because I own a fullsize Chev diesel that the info could be helpful on. I hate it when I pay for a track day and then fail tech for not having a catch can. Must be nice to know everything, must make it so easy to live in your world. But I'm sure you'll have some excuse as to why my examples don't apply to yours as usual, i.e. rarity of occurrence, not a Datsun, not a street use vehicle lol. 1 Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 It's an opinion on something mostly not needed for the reasons started. To each their own. Why would your 'full size diesel' need this? Because re-built or just because chev? Try reverse flushing the cores for RTV and use distilled rad water. Catch cans are only needed to pass tech on a race track. If you need to catch oil on the street you need a rebuild. Link to comment
DaBlist Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 I plan to run one. What I saw inside my 40 year old engine block was nasty even after cleaning it the best I could with the core plugs out. The radiator and heater core will be new so I don't want to run trash through them. If the block had been professionally cleaned then not so important buts lots of the older engines have had Bars Leak or similar stuff dumped in them. Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 I've recently gotten a new phone and lost all the photos I've kept from cut open coolant filter's. I save them specifically for showing friends and times like this. We use sand to bead blast down to bare metal right? So how could a teaspoon plus of casting sand getting tossed around in my coolant not contribute to wearing out seals in a water pump? From the factory they just fill them up with coolant and send them out with all that sand because it would cost way too much extra to put coolant filters on every production car. But you can bet your ass big rigs and race cars have them. They are pretty darn simple to hook up and it takes less than an hour once you know what you're doing and like I said, can be done for under a hundred dollar bill. What's a water pump cost again? Talking about my Datsun specifically, I flushed the coolant three times now and still get little sediments of shit in the bottom of my coolant reservoir (which I've separately removed and emptied at least half a dozen times on its own.) I cannot wait to hook up a coolant filter to it and be done. No flushing will ever do the job as good as a coolant filter! Period. I'll take some photos and get a parts list of everything that you need the cheapest way possible that I could find anyways. 1 Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 One of the engineers at Gm in the early days had a saying. "Parts left off cost nothing, and create no service problems" I believe a good flushing will remove most of all the crud in a cooing system, even on a 40 year old engine, that a coolant filter would catch. To do a good flush, remove the thermostat. Find the drain plug near the back of the engine, on a L-16, just above the starter, and remove it. Run fresh water in one radiator hose, with a garden hose, let it run out of the other. Put your thumb over the rear drain hole in the block, while the block fills with water. When the water runs out clear, blow compressed air into the drain hole. That will agitate the water in the engine block, and that will stir up a lot of sediment, casting sand, and any other debris in the block. Let the block fill with water only again, and repeat blowing compressed air in the drain hole, and filling the block again, until the water coming out remains clear. Do the same process with the radiator. Flush the heater core both forward and back with fresh water. After the system is flushed in this manner, if you keep fresh antifreeze, mixed with distilled water,in the engine, your coolant filter will probably not ever get anything in it. 1 Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Its all on http://www.ganofilters.com No, I don't like this one and there's way better ways. The best way to do it is grab it at the lines running to the heater core. Find the one going from the block or maybe the head depending on the engine running to the heater core that is your in to the filter. The other one coming from the heater core/firewall will be going into your water pump that is your out. It's a whole filter housing and the coolant filters looks like an oil filter but are made specifically for coolant. There are many different brands that make coolant filter's and for diesels some even come with supplement coolant additive's in them already to fight the cavitation of diesels. I use a Wix 24070 Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Like this: Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 This way if they filter clogs up for whatever reason you still have heat in the cab. You only need to grab it with "Ts." This is because there is different pressures in the lines and it will catch everything regardless of a straight shot or not. Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 I see using Google there are many different cooler filter housings now. But probably the cheapest ones are the the Wix parts number 24019 or the NAPA part number 4019. I'm pretty sure they're the same exact cast housing painted different colors for around 30 bucks. Like I said there are many others and even kits specifically made with everything you need including the custom brackets to mount your filter housing for certain vehicles. One of mine is from sinisterdiesel and it's a billet aluminum housing, no need to go crazy like that though. Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 From there the only other thing I recommend is getting little ball valves that you can get from hardware stores so when you change the coolant filter you can just shut off the valves at the housing and not lose much coolant. Also you must mount the filter lower then the highest spot in the system which is usually the reservoir. I like to mount mine low around the bumper passenger side wheel well area so when I change them if drips do come which they will it's all low to the ground and easy. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Water pumps seldom wear out but if they do, it can't be blamed on core sand but the severe life they lead. At 3K RPM at 70 MPH a water pump turns over 4 1/4 million times under load at all temperatures during 100,000 miles of driving. This is conservative as the water pump pulley is smaller than the crank pulley. They wear out. If sand was that common a cause someone would have mentioned it. Sand does not circulate around the cooling system, it is heavier than water and settles in low areas of the block or cavities where it's not usual to be disturbed. Sand or sediment is unlikely to plug a rad with vertical fins or heater core and easily back flushed for free. Any other crap was added when topping up from a garden hose or fell off the cooing system insides. (dirt, scale, gasket bits, rust flakes) If you drain and change your rad coolant every 3 years this would never build enough to clog anything. Newer engines? Who knows? They are hot house flowers needing constant protection I don't see this causing any problems. Like this: Would a fuel filter do the same? Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 This happens all the time with friends and then I'm helping them install one. It's cheap to add, it does work and catch shit, and again NO FLUSH can do what a coolant filter can, period. Hell the Donaldson ECF4085 coolant filter filters up to 99% efficiency at 14-microns and is suppose to be good for 150k miles. Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 I call it piece of mind. If you plan on keeping your rig forever and love them like I do mine, why not? It's cheap insurance. The only reason you wouldn't I guess is because you don't think it works. And that's just funny, use google and see what others say of them. Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Would a fuel filter do the same? I wouldn't use a fuel filter Boss, there's so many filters made specifically for coolant now. Here's a list: ACDelco - WF108 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Alliance Parts - ABPN10GWF2077 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Alliance Parts - WF2077 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall American Parts - 96045 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall American Parts - 96070 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Baldwin - B5088 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain Baldwin - B5089 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short Baldwin - B5090 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain Baldwin - B5134 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Baudouin - 16040100R - Filter w/o Chemicals Bell Equipment SA - RE11992 - Filter w/o Chemicals Big A - 96045 - Filter w/o Chemicals Big A - 96064 - Filter w/o Chemicals Big A - 96069 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short Big A - 96070 - Filter w/o Chemicals Big A - 96083 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain Big A - 96084 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain Carquest - 89045 - Filter w/o Chemicals Carquest - 89064 - Filter w/o Chemicals Carquest - 89069 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short Carquest - 89070 - Filter w/o Chemicals Carquest - 89083 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain Carquest - 89084 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain Carquest - 89087 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain Case-IH CNH - EGNN-8A424-BA - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Caterpillar - 3I-1300 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Caterpillar - 9Y-4528 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Champ - LFW4011 - Filter w/o Chemicals Champion Laboratories - PW4011 - Filter w/o Chemicals Cummins - 3098689 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain Cummins - 3098690 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain Cummins - 3300721 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Cummins - 3827423 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Cummins - XWF4245 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain Cummins - XWF4246 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain Detroit Diesel - 23524403 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Donaldson - ECF4085 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain Donaldson - P554685 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Fiaam - FT5654 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short Fiat - EGNN-8A424-BA - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Fleetguard - WF2064 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Fleetguard - WF2070 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Fleetguard - WF2077 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Fleetguard - WF2101 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain Fleetguard - WF2122 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain Fleetguard - WF2123 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain Fleetguard - WF2142 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short Fleetrite - WFR82077 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Fleetrite - WFR82101 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Fleetrite - WFR82107 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short Fleetrite - WFR82122 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain Fleetrite - WFR82123 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain Ford - 9576P554685 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Ford - E7NN-8A469-AA - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Ford - E7NN-8A469-M - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Ford - EGNN-8A424-BA - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Ford - YC3Z-84A424-BA - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short Fram - PR11081 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain Fram - PR3383 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Fram - PR9616 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short GM - 25010844 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall GM - 25010845 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Hastings - WC13 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain Hino - 1630441015 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Ingersoll Rand - 57499162 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall International/Case/Navistar - 1820358C1 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain International/Case/Navistar - 1833690C1 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain John Deere - RE11992 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Kenworth - KW2011 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Komatsu - 8853-26-0644 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Kralinator - CM1 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Kralinator - CM83 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain Kralinator - CM84 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain Liebherr - 7025830 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Luber-Finer - LFW4685 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Luber-Finer - LFW4685XL - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain Luber-Finer - LFW4686 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short Mann & Hummel - WA94018 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Motorcraft - FW12 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Motorcraft - FW725 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short Nalco Chemical - NF2999 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall NAPA - 4045 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall NAPA - 4069 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short NAPA - 4070 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall NAPA - 4083 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain NAPA - 4084 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain NAPA - 4087 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain NAPA - 4142 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Neoplan USA - DONP554685 - Filter w/o Chemicals New Holland - 9609182 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall New Holland - 83960185 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall New Holland - EGNN-8A424-BA - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Orenstein & Koppel - A010001 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Paccar - 1649751 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain Paccar - 1843659 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain Perry - PFC4 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Perry - S4 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Perry - S4A - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Prevost Car - 19500496 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Purolator - PW4451 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Purolator - W54451 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Saab-Scania - 342988 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short Sure Filter Tech - SFC4685 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Sure Filter Tech - SFW2988 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short Sure Filter Tech - SFW4685 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Tecnocar - RA100 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Terex - 15317047 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall TFMC - T50521 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Universal Coach Parts - T06-1011 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall VMC - WF4085 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain VMC - WF554685 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Walgahn-Motorentechn - 811423 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Wix - 24070 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall Wix - 24083 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Short, Extended Drain Wix - 24084 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall, Extended Drain Woodgate - WGW2077 - Filter w/o Chemicals, Tall But be careful, some of these have SCAs pre charged in them for diesels. 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john510 Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 So what happens when the filter clogs and restricts flow ? new engine ? if you have so much crap in your cooling system that you need a filter i dont think a filter will cure the problem. I just dont see a need for one. Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 So what happens when the filter clogs and restricts flow ? new engine ? if you have so much crap in your cooling system that you need a filter i dont think a filter will cure the problem. I just dont see a need for one. Look at the diagram and read again, it's a bypass kid. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Just like those toilet paper filters. They are used in by pass mode along side the regular filter. . Link to comment
Jester Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 it does work and catch shit, and again NO FLUSH can do what a coolant filter can, period. I don't see where anyone is saying it won't work. They do in fact work very well. Your missing the point of people that have been working on Datsuns since you were probably still shiting your pants..........kid. YOU DON'T NEED ON, IF one were to actually clean the system the way Mike or Daniel mentioned, you wouldn't have the extra item to maintane or the added weight on your front end. Every ounce adds to another pound! You are correct that no flush can do what a filter can. One is the act of cleaning and other is the act of keeping it clean. 3 Link to comment
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