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Let's try this again; flatcat's 521


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All I'm saying is I wouldn't put the head back on looking like that. Ask any machinist. You don't use a roloc anything on aluminum heads. Supreme no-no. The striations don't look right. And I have built a few motors.

Again, temporary. When this motor comes back out the head will get plenty of work done. I'm looking at like a 3 month turn-around, if that.

 

If I do the same for customer's cars with zero problems why is it not good enough for my own stuff?

 

And...AND...if I was using an MLS head gasket I might be worried, barely.

Squishy-ass FelPro...nope. She'll be fine.

 

 

Waiting for my timing cover gasket set and oil pan gasket to finish up.

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Fabric Roloc on the end of my 12V right angle drill after plenty of scraping with a razor blade. 

You can see one of the pads in the first pic of the head. 

 

Cleaned all surfaces of the motor the same way. 

 

Yellow roloc bristle disk is what I use. They are basically rubber fingers. 

 

I'm not too familiar with the fabric disks. Probably looks worse that it is.

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There are white, yellow, and green rolocs.  White is for aluminum, has very little abrasive in it.  Yellow is mid level abrasive, green is lots of abrasive.  The problem with using those for anything other than cleaning timing covers or something that uses a paper gasket and/or silicone sealant is you don't have a flat edge.  If used on a cylinder head mating surface (which needs to be absolutely level) it will introduce peaks and valleys in semi-circular fashion as the operator cannot provide continual pressure and movement to the same level.

 

If you look at a head milling machine, it's a giant "roloc" if you will that moves on an arbor.  The head is locked down and the arbor is moved on the head as it's spinning.  Because it's attached to a very large, very accurate mill, you can rotate the diamond head over the fresh metal and guarantee a certain degree of clearancing.  Not the pogostick action of someone with an angle grinder.  It makes a number of passes, so even if there was a high spot or low spot on the grinding stone, it will pass over every inch of the surface with the same results.

 

This is how you avoid head-gasket issues.

 

Did some digging online since I don't have my 3M book on me.  White is 120 grit, Yellow is 80 grit, and Green is 36/24 grit depending on size.

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I've used the yellow roloc pads on so many heads its not funny. Very common practice in the field as well. Learned it from an old time pro (instructor) while in auto school and done in the shops as well.

 

The key is to not stay in one spot forever and you'll be just fine. And now that I said that, it almost ensures my motor is going to leak. To be fair, bought the head from CL.. so it could be warped already.

 

Roll the dice.

 

From a machinists point of view.. a brisk wind is removing material. Carry on!

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Meh. Lol. Temp gig until I can afford the disc conversion.

 

 

 

 

Someone bring the Band-Aids to gatoland. I'm scabbing this thing back on the road.

And, with that, your truck will now be dubbed 'scab'.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Change the title, thanks.

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You want to send me the head?  $40 is all it takes for a mirror finish down to within .001" or so.  Can't remember how accurate Sunwest's head milling machine is, but it's pretty accurate.  And yes, I am serious, you send it to me, I'll have it cleaned up for you if you like.  That's that kind of NAPA guy I am. ;)

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