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Let's try this again; flatcat's 521


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Umm, buddy, I hate to tell you this, but that kind of head surfacing leads to very uneven surfaces on a minute level, which adversely affects head gasket sealing.  I would highly recommend taking that head down to a proper machine shop with a diamond stone and having it surfaced.  You'll save yourself lots of headaches.  A proper aluminum resurfaced head should look like this:

 

z20head1_zpswpew11yq.jpg

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Yawn. 

 

Low speed with no pressure. I do this kind of thing DAILY. On cars that have way tighter tolerances. 

Straight-edge was applied to head after this. I'm not worried. 

 

 

The game plan...install this motor so I can remove the crapped-out motor I have currently. 

When L16 is out-I turn the L16 in to a long-rod 1.8 using L18 crank, L16 rods, and Z20 flat-tops then re-install. 

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Question for you guys though...

 

 

On the chain...how tight does the left side guide(while facing it head on) have/supposed to be?

 

Is there supposed to be some slack? In my mind I'm thinking tighten the shit out of it. But I know I'm probably wrong this time. 

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All I'm saying is I wouldn't put the head back on looking like that.  Ask any machinist.  You don't use a roloc anything on aluminum heads.  Supreme no-no.  The striations don't look right.  And I have built a few motors.  As far as the timing chain goes, you want the most perfect curve you can get, including the tensioner in mock up.  The Datsun bible outlines that well.  I usually have to ream out the tensioner shoe holes to get it angled right so the chain has a perfect arc and no flat spots where it can flop a link.

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