521 Rescue

[Roadracer Al]

I forgot to mention the clips. On the 620, there are some bronze spring clips that hold the adjuster to the back plate. What a PITA to get out, they interlock (which is good cuz they don't fall out). Anyone have the hot ticket on how to remove them? I wound up using a tiny little screwdriver on each side to lift the tabs, but you need 3 hands.

 

And, yes, it doesn't take much anti-seize to do the job -- I like to put it on really liberally, then wipe it down with a towel to distribute it evenly, and remove any excess.

[nukeday]

Thanks for all the comments :D

 

I was able to remove just the adjuster. The clips that hold the adjuster on came off pretty easily, I used a flat blade screwdriver on the top one, tapped it lightly and it slid right off. I pulled the floating peg out of the carrier, stood it up and put PB in the back side. I let is soak a couple of days, and just went out and it came apart. I'll get it cleaned up and put some anti-seize on it when it goes back together.

 

It looks like I should consider rebuilding this wheel cylinder too. I really need to get a bench vise...

 

 

[Charlie69]

Hey Todd, I cleaned out my garage today, and I found another alternator that might be a J13, I will post a picture of it tomorrow. Do you want the voltage regulator that came off my 66?

 

When I go disk on front and back I will save you all the parts, may some of them will be useful to you.

[nukeday]

Thanks Charlie. I think I've finally got the Alternator sorted out. I'd like a stock one, but it seems to be operational for the time being.

 

As for the brake stuff, I have some spare rear parts here but nothing for the front. The wheel cylinders look OK, but they've been dry a long time. If I had some spare cylinders to rebuild that would be awesome.

[nukeday]

After trick or treating, had some time tonight. Cleaned, reassembled and reinstalled the brake adjuster.

 

 

So, I called the wife out to help me try to bleed the brakes, and go to check the bleeder on the other side and found more hacked and missing crap. Not sure how I missed this...

 

Hardline has been cut at the distro block on the rear axle, and the bleeder and input assembly are completely missing. This doesn't bode well for my hard lines. :blink:

 

 

 

So, in disgust, I thought I'd try to rebuild the clutch slave. Wrong again.

 

 

I was trying to salvage the effort, so I did a quick hook up on a Jensen I pulled out of the junkyard for the B210. At least something went right...

 

 

I'm gonna' need more parts.

And a large dose of, 'don't part it out now, you're almost there'.

Grrrr.

[motavated]

 

I think a 20$ slave cylinder could be adapted?

[nukeday]

Ordered a slave and rear wheel cylinder from rockauto. Still need the hardline, just need to get motivated to go get one...

[denveratsun]

Just keep swimming, just keep swimming...:D

 

Your making progress man. Keep it up.:cool:

[Charlie69]

Hey nukeday,

 

This truck has come so far with you working on it, please keep going. I am amazed with your dedication and the fact that you have worked so hard to keep it original!

 

Keep plugging away you will one day soon be driving it.

[Roadracer Al]

Wow, that's a bitch about the hard lines. Some people do the strangest things.

 

The good news is that installing all new hard lines isn't that difficult. Your local auto store ought to be able to sell you straight sections which have the correct ends (there are at least 3 or 4 different types of fittings), and you'd need to bend them into shape.

 

The LAPS should be able to rent a tubing bender to you as well. Don't bend them by hand, it's way too easy to ruin the new line by kinking. You may need to get two or three pieces to achieve the right length, adding a union is OK.

 

You will want to use plastic "P" clips to screw the new line to the frame ever 12~18".

[nukeday]

Thanks guys.

 

I'm glad it will take a few days for the parts to arrive. I was pretty aggravated when 1.) I discovered this, and 2.) When I realized I didn't find it sooner.

 

I still have some body stuff to do. I need to find my firewall leak and get some templates made for my floorpans. There's still plenty to do.

 

Have to thank skunktruckin and jas-ifras for infusing a little motivation. I started messing with this truck in Feb. I see what some of the people here do in days and it serves as both inspiration and depression fodder...lol...

 

The guantlet is down now though. I'm pretty committed to driving it at least once...

[Charlie69]

I will be digging into my 520 brakes in a couple weeks. Looking at going disk all the way around. have all the klotz's parts to do front have to find the rears yet. I read some where that the one of the rear disk brake brackets hits the frame when rear axle compresses the spring from hitting a bump. This might be because of lowering I am not sure.

 

I will send you the parts I have left.

[nukeday]

I saw these on CL for $50, so I picked 'em up. 16" x 8" Enkei Blades. Seem to be in good shape, the tires are poo. 3.75" from the front lip to the hub, same from the back. So, I guess zero offset? Looks like I'll need different lug nuts to use these. I searched but couldn't find the thread listing thread pitch for the 521. Anyone know what I need off the top of their head? (Or the thread where it's already listed?)

 

 

Pic is from the CL ad, I'll get better photos when I get tires. May be awhile since I won't put good tires on this truck until I get the kingpins replaced...

 

Charlie69 - Thanks! I really just need to get off my behind and go pull the little bits I need.

[fisch]

^^ Score for $50 man!

[lilhustler521]

I am pretty sure the lugs are 7/16 by 20

[nukeday]

I stuck one of these on the truck, just to see how it looks. I didn't realize it, but they are left and right directional. :D One of them does have some rash. Anyway, the offset seems to be OK. They have 225/60 R16's on one set and they look like they will tuck in back. The other set is 225/50, haven't tried them on the front yet.

[Roadracer Al]

Score!

[nukeday]

Well, this is almost comedy. I ordered a slave and wheel cylinder from rockauto. As usual, they stuck me for shipping from two different locations.

 

The slave arrived today, and the bag was open, the cup for the pushrod and the nut for the pushrod are both missing.

 

I ordered a set of ball joints from RA about 2 years ago, and they kept sending me pairs with one missing castle nut. I ended up RMA'ing and reshipping a total of 4 sets before they got it right.

 

Anyone else had this problem? I'll be requesting an RMA and a credit this time, I'll go get the slave locally.

[Jason]

I went through this kind of nonsense with one of our local parts houses with stock 510 front disk calipers. I would get sent 2 lefts, a right and a left, but with the wrong piston, a right and the left with the wrong bracket .... Finally the parts guy (who was really helpful) got all 11 of them in and I was able to assemble one complete, right and left pair out of the 11 calipers in their system ... The other nine are still there, but, no complete pairs. It only took 2 weeks of going back and forth on that one!

[nukeday]

Man I hate drum brakes. Especially rusty, broken and pillaged examples like mine. I got all four nuts off the wheel cylinder, but it still won't budge. I hammered on it with the soft mallet for several minutes, but it won't break loose from the plate. Oh, and guess what? Yep, the star adjuster is stuck on this side too.

 

 

 

You can't see it in this photo, but the front pad is paper thin on the bottom, so the adjuster has been stuck for a long time.

 

The drivers side E-brake cable is busted, must have caught on something and tore the cable right apart. How does this come apart? From looking at the backing plate I can't figure it out. Is the shielded portion threaded into the backing plate?

 

 

Tried again to get the little stub of hardline out of the junction box, but it's really rusted in there. If I can't break it loose, I might have to replace the whole junction thing. I'd much rather try to get this one connection off than mess with all three of them.

 

 

Pulled the gas cap and it smells like turpentine in there. The tank must have been replaced shortly before the truck was parked, it's practically rust free. The filler to tank hose is shot though. I was afraid to touch it for fear it would crumble to bits. That crap on top is just a bunch of dirt.

 

 

I thought the engine was a mess, this rusted stuff is a real pain.

 

So, I figure I've got several dozen man hours into this thing now, and about $500 in parts. I'm rapidly reaching the point of diminishing returns...

[alabama_lowlife]

that brake line junction block looks VERY similar to the ones on a hardbody.....but 521's aren't metric are they?

[mklotz70]

It's like your rig was sunk in a flood or something.

 

My choice would be to simply replace the hard lines, junction and rubber hose. I'll bet that the inside of those lines don't look much better.

 

The slave cyl has a big round section that fits snugly into a hole in the backing plate. You might try a chisel from the front side, down between the slave cyl and the backing plate...where the rubber cup is(move it out of the way. Maybe put the bolts back in the back side, but leave them about 1/8" loose and tap on them. If you take the rubber cups off....maybe a pipe wrench on the cyl to twist it.

 

The Ebrake cable simply push in, if I remember right. There's a spring over the cable after if goes into the backing plate. Once the end of the cable is connected to the brake arm, the spring provides force to push the arm back when released and also keeps pulling the cable and housing into the backing plate so that it doesn't fall out.

 

The cable housings were okay on the NL....so I used the cables out of a hardbody setup. I stripped the plastic liner off the cable so it would fit in the stock cable sheath. You'll have to cut the front end of the cable off to pull it out of the housing.......but the housing may work anyway. I used a couple of cable clamps(little U bolts) from Home Depot to hold the cables back together.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if you could simply put HB backing plates onto the 521 rearend.

[nukeday]

he slave cyl has a big round section that fits snugly into a hole in the backing plate.

 

I just got the new wheel cylinder in, I can see how this would fit now. I need to PB the back side and see if it will come loose.

 

The Ebrake cable simply push in, if I remember right. There's a spring over the cable after if goes into the backing plate. Once the end of the cable is connected to the brake arm, the spring provides force to push the arm back when released and also keeps pulling the cable and housing into the backing plate so that it doesn't fall out.

 

There is a sort of crimp fitting for the E-brake sheath where it goes into the backing plate. The cable is rusted to the inside of the sheath and won't move except from the brake shoe to the backing plate. If the sheath is supposed to be pressure fit, I should be able to get it loose there. I will look at cutting off the broken part to see if I can get to a point where the cable isn't stuck.

 

It surprises me a bit, I thought I was farther along than half way, but maybe not. Still to do:

 

-Choke cable / Air cleaner

-Floor pans

-Fix firewall leak

-Windshield

-Brake lights

-Kingpins

-Front brakes (?)

-Repair/reinstall heater assy

-Window channel felts

-Install front bumper

-Repair battery tray area (rust)

-Install clutch slave, new soft line

-Drop and clean gas tank

-Install door handles, secure seat

 

But, hey it does run.

[skunk]

hows the dash in your truck look? and are you still in need of a tail gate?

[nukeday]

The dash is crap. It's all cracked and split. I got a tailgate from MKlotz at Blue Lake. It's rough, but it will work.