521 Rescue

[nukeday]

Looks like 72wagun is going to hook me up with dogbones and spindles.

 

Stupid question, as I haven't done it in forever:

 

Old race + new bearings = OK

 

Old race + bearings that came off of it = OK

 

Old race + bearings from a different hub = big no-no

 

Is that about right?

[mklotz70]

I would only use the race that came with the bearing and not mix/match them. Even if they're from the same manufacture, they can be different batches. The front wheel isn't a place you want a catastrophic bearing failure. To move it around the yard....sure...what ever fits :)

[nukeday]

Thanks Mike.

 

I guess I wasn't very clear on what I'm asking. If I get the spindles from 72wagun, I'm wondering what I need to do to put my hubs on them. My understanding is that I need to install new wheel bearings in my hubs and they should go on the spindles with no other accommodation.

 

I've been looking over zenndog's 320 brake rebuild thread and found all kinds of good stuff. One item he shows is how to remove the e-brake cable, another is the list of parts he used to rebuild everything. He used several 520/521 pieces, but didn't go into a lot of detail on the front wheel bearings and it's been a long time since I've done a set.

 

It's a decent investment (for this truck's budget) to buy all the bearings and seals. I don't want to order more than I need, or forget to order something I do.

[mklotz70]

Do you know that your bearings are toast? If you are going to put new bearings in the hubs, you'll need to hammer out the old race. Keep the bearing and race matched up on the old ones if you're going to reuse them. If you are simply pulling the bearing to clean and repack with grease, keep track of which bearing goes back in which hub.

 

If you asking if your hubs will slide onto the new spindles...that answer is yes :)

 

Did you find new 521 inner bearings?

[nukeday]

I think I had some terminology/mental images mixed up. I was thinking the race was part of the spindle. Talked with 72wagun about this also, and it seems like the only real trick is getting my existing hubs off the old spindles intact.

 

I did find inner bearings listed at rockauto, but I'm not sure they are correct:

 

TIMKEN Part # 30206M. The application lists it for 63-82.

 

NATIONAL Part # 30304 {Taper Bearing Assembly; Cone Length=0.5906" Bore=0.7874" Outer Diameter=2.0472" Width=0.6398" Cup Length=0.5118" Cone Radius=0.08" Cup Radius=0.08"}, application lists it from 61-82.

 

520/521 front inner(only)grease seal, TIMKEN #1977 ****( also use for rear outer, see below )****

 

UPDATE!!!!! The outer rear seals above for the 520/521 did not work, the 1977 # is the right seal for the front and rear. I sent the part #1974 back and ordered two more of the #1977. This part number seems to be the same for a few different manufacturers, but no stores near me had them on hand, they have to be ordered.Z.

 

520/521 wheel bearing, BECK/ARNLEY #0513079

 

If I can slide my hubs off, I'll just transfer them to the new dogbones/spindles. The odds that I'll actually get away with this, on this particular truck are not in my favor.

Edited November 14, 2009 by nukeday

[mklotz70]

Those 30206 bearings are not correct. That's why I asked. Absolutely no one lists them correctly, and no one has the the correct ones. So...hopefully, your existing bearings are just fine and yes, they should pull off of yours and pop onto the others.

 

The outers are correct.

[nukeday]

Picked up a set of dogbones and spindles from 72wagun. The kingpins look much better than mine. Thanks 72wagun!

[72wagun]

No Problem. Hope they work for you.

[nukeday]

Spent quite a bit of time on zenndog's 320 brake rebuild thread and it gave me the spur I needed to get after this mess. Finally got the busted piece of brake hardline out and the driver's side rear brake apart, soaking the brake adjuster in ATF. Having a really hard time removing the busted/rusted E-brake stuff, I PB Blasted the heck out of it, but I may end up sawing it off and drilling it out.

 

 

 

Couple other minor tidbits, I got the light switch and choke cable in the dash. I have to really check how I want the choke to run, so I didn't cut it off yet.

 

 

Discovered tonight that I'm going to have to pull the gauge cluster out again, the driver's side defrost duct is missing. That's when it dawned on me, my dad's had this truck since about 1986, I think I even have a picture of it from about that time. The passenger side dent is new, but the bumper and the bland color seemed really familiar. The dead defrost on the driver's side clinched it, I drove it in about 1989 when I was home on leave and was pretty pissed about the defrost not working. It may have been ripped off with the rest of the stuff, but the tabs are still there, so it probably broke off in the 80's sometime.

 

Anyway, it's getting there...

[nukeday]

I inspected the 'new' dogbones I got from 72wagun, and the kingpins are really nice. They look original, no slop at all.

 

So I got under the truck to try to figure out how to replace just the dogbones. Can I pull the tension rod from front, and just remove the front lower A-arm? It looks like they are bolted together, but if I remove the bolts, the front arm looks as though it will come off by itself. I'll go look over the maintenance pdf manual again. It looks like the torsion bar only runs through the rear A-arm. If I don't have to mess with the torsion bars at this point, that would be awesome.

 

Suggestions on how to install the 'new' dogbones without completely dismantling the entire frontend would be appreciated.

[nukeday]

I have been messing with the E-brake on this truck just about every night and I cannot figure out how I'm going to get it out of the backing plate.

 

If I cut the cable itself could I use the tang on the end to pull the sleeve through? The cable looks pretty good, but it's currently seized inside the sleeve. If I can cut the sheath back and leave the cable hanging out (on the driveline side) I'm thinking I might be able to use a come along from the front crossmember to the cable and pop the whole works out. Maybe I should try it just the way it is, it's already broken anyway.

 

If I can't get that to work, should I just sawzall it off as close to the backing plate as I can and then drill it out?

 

If I put a propane torch to the backing plate will it heat up quicker than the sleeve?

 

This bit is turning into a show stopper, and I'm a frustrated with all the rust. I'm not even interested in putting in another E-brake assembly at this point. But, since I've got it all apart, now is the time to remove the old one. I can put a plug in the backing plate until I can get a new E-brake cable.

 

Also having zero luck freeing up the brake adjuster, it's welded together with rust.

[fisch]

 

Also having zero luck freeing up the brake adjuster, it's welded together with rust.

 

Man I have been there Nuke! I had to buy replacements. And I was sure to use some lube on the new ones! Few things have frustrated me like the brakes on the 521. (Well, the t-stat housing was worse!)

 

I am curious about the e-brake on the '59 too. it seems almost as if the cable has just stretched over the years. The is an adjusting nut at the 'y' connecton, but I am doubtful it will adjust enough to take the slack out.

 

Good luck! I feel your frustration!

[shancerlelby]

keep atter man, my datto is pretty neglected too and i've run into alot of rust monsters also. A torch, lots of fluid film or other penetrant and tons of patience are your best weapons. :)

[72wagun]

I inspected the 'new' dogbones I got from 72wagun, and the kingpins are really nice. They look original, no slop at all.

 

So I got under the truck to try to figure out how to replace just the dogbones. Can I pull the tension rod from front, and just remove the front lower A-arm? It looks like they are bolted together, but if I remove the bolts, the front arm looks as though it will come off by itself. I'll go look over the maintenance pdf manual again. It looks like the torsion bar only runs through the rear A-arm. If I don't have to mess with the torsion bars at this point, that would be awesome.

 

Suggestions on how to install the 'new' dogbones without completely dismantling the entire frontend would be appreciated.

 

Hey Todd,

 

I haven't had to pull this apart yet, but I just went out and looked at mine, and it looks like the easiest way to get those off is to disconnect the upper and lower control arms at their outer pivot points, disconnect the steering, and your done. Like I said, I haven't done this yet, so maybe I'm missing something. It seems like you shouldn't need to touch the tension rod at all:confused:.

 

I have been messing with the E-brake on this truck just about every night and I cannot figure out how I'm going to get it out of the backing plate.

 

If I cut the cable itself could I use the tang on the end to pull the sleeve through? The cable looks pretty good, but it's currently seized inside the sleeve. If I can cut the sheath back and leave the cable hanging out (on the driveline side) I'm thinking I might be able to use a come along from the front crossmember to the cable and pop the whole works out. Maybe I should try it just the way it is, it's already broken anyway.

 

If I can't get that to work, should I just sawzall it off as close to the backing plate as I can and then drill it out?

 

If I put a propane torch to the backing plate will it heat up quicker than the sleeve?

 

This bit is turning into a show stopper, and I'm a frustrated with all the rust. I'm not even interested in putting in another E-brake assembly at this point. But, since I've got it all apart, now is the time to remove the old one. I can put a plug in the backing plate until I can get a new E-brake cable.

 

Also having zero luck freeing up the brake adjuster, it's welded together with rust.

 

When I took my back axle and brakes apart, the E-brake cable just came out with a good tug. I'm surprised yours is that stuck, even with rust. I'm sure you've soaked it really well with penetrating oil or something similar? They must be so rusty that they've just become one!

 

Maybe you need to make another trip to Albany for some more parts:D. That truck has quite a bit of rust, so any part you can swap for a less rusty parts would be good. I think the backing plates on my parts truck are in decent shape. I'll check when I have a chance. If so, you can have them. That should also give you some adjusters that work.

 

Let me know. Good Luck!

[racrbryce]

atleast the truck has a pretty sraight body

[nukeday]

In order to replace the rear backing plates, I would have to pull the axles. I have no plans to do that unless I absolutely have to. Been PM'ing Mike K on how the front end assembly comes apart. There is a keeper key in the lower bearing mount, and the mount itself threads into the lower end of the dogbone. It's going to be a bit of work to get both sets disassembled and then the new ones in. I called around and it's $400 and up to have the kingpins rebushed, so I'm going to try this with the dogbone swap.

 

I ordered a set of 320/520/521 front bearing spacers from Mike, and he said he threw a brake adjuster in the box for me. All I should need is the short piece of hardline and I'll be able to get this rear brake put back together. If I screw up the front bearings, I'll have a way to put it back together with 620 bearings.

 

Still fighting the E-brake cable. I just keep tapping it and spraying it with PB. Eventually I'll get it out.

 

72wagun - I'm thinking I'll come see you if you've still got the E-brake assembly on your parts truck.

[nukeday]

Called nissan.cc today and they told me that my local dealer actually showed the Left E-brake cable on the shelf. $19 and some change. Still don't have the old one out, but now I've got the right one to put back in.

 

[72wagun]

Sounds like you're on the right track with the front end. I've never taken that part apart myself. Mike is the man. I'll look forward to some pics:)

 

That's awesome you found a new brake cable. I checked my parts truck, and someone just chopped the cables off right at the backing plate:( No e-brake parts what so ever on there.

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Baby steps. Keep pluggin away.

[nukeday]

Mostly tinkered today, got it running but the carb is really acting up. I think the acclerator pump is about done.

 

Here's the spacers and adjuster from MKlotz, thank you Mike!

 

 

Got my free tailgate installed, thanks again Mike!

 

 

Worked on the tail lights, found some thick sheet metal at the local recycling place. I bought myself a 4 1/2" grinder and a couple of cut off wheels. I've got one just about done, but not quite...

 

 

 

Spent the first part of the day working the rear E-brake cable. I don't think it's going to come out without a little surgery. I will probably have to cut it off and drill it out of the backing plate. I've been spraying the lower A-arm bushings on both sets of dogbones nearly every day. The parts I got from 72wagun look like they are going to come apart relatively easily. The set on the truck, not so much.

 

Baby steps...

[77 rustrat]

i think the granuder valve is missing and it looks like it may need some blinker fluid

[Roadracer Al]

I dig that bumper! No, not kidding.

[mklotz70]

:) You're welcome.

[nukeday]

No work on the truck with this brutal cold, but I freaked out over it last night anyway.

 

It was 9F overnight, and I realized that I'd only put distilled water in it this summer to get it running. I popped the radiator cap and had liquid in there, so it didn't freeze there. The garage is well insulated, but not heated. Inspected all the freeze plugs I could see it and did not see any popped.

 

I put my 100W drop light down next to the dizzy, hope that will be enough if it's not already too late...:(

[motavated]

Ohh man dont say that!!!