521 Rescue

[mklotz70]

If I remember right...it's not actually a screw in the top hole .....and if you do force it with a screw driver, you simply break off a piece. There's a C clip on one side....take it off and push the pin out....the slot is so that you can use a screw driver to turn it to line up the "keyed" side when you put it back in. .......ask me how I know they break :)

[Jester]

About what year were the Z cars? What kind of shape?

[nukeday]

Thanks Mike, I will be back out there. Possibly even tomorrow. I'd like to get the clutch hydraulics working, but not without a shifter. I don't want to cobble it together, I really appreciate your comment on this. I'll look over the pdf diagrams and see if I can figure it out.

 

Jester - One of the Z's had the scoopy thing on the driver's side of the hood (turbo? 280?), the other I'd guess was a late 280. I didn't look real close, sorry. I didn't see anything newer than a 280 though, I'm pretty sure of that.

[Jester]

Thanks. Might have to make a trip that way and check them out.

[nukeday]

Anyone have a trick to remove all these little bits (items 26-31) in the JY without dropping them in the weeds below? Mike, do you remember if the pin (item 31) is tapered or is it just a slip fit held on by the pressure of the spring washers?

 

I got the lower pin out (item 23), but the one I have has a mushroom head, not a lock washer on each end. The lock washer popped back a little bit, but was held on by the grease so I was able to fish it out.

 

[Charlie69]

Hey nukeday, enjoyed the video of your truck runnung!!! Good score on the jy parts.

 

Is there anyway you might be able to check the 520 for the rubber peice on top of the heater? I need one mine fell apart.

 

Thank you,

Charlie

[nukeday]

The only heater boot I saw was in a 521, it was in pretty good shape actually. Not sure if it's the same in the 520?

 

The one in my 521 was lying in a congealed, melted puddle on top of the tranny tunnel. I was just going to use a piece of HVAC ducting to replace it.

 

Not sure if I'll make it back out there next week. There is a B210 north of Seattle that I really need stuff off of. That's a 5 hour drive one way...

[mklotz70]

Not sure why I do this.......... You can thank the 411 guys...this delayed their brakes by about 40 min :)

 

 

There's a pin in ....need a really small drift to push it out. I think later models or other models used a C clip. Anyway...this is the one I had here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jester]

Nice pictures Mike. Wish my camera would take closeups that good.

[Charlie69]

Mike, you do it because you can. :lol::lol::lol: You know that if you did not help someone when you could that you would be up all night. So now that you helped you will be up all night doing brake parts to help someone else. Wait a minute where is the win for you? Oh, I get it the satisfaction of knowing that you helped. Mike we do appreciate your help and all the other Ratsuner's that help also!:cool::cool::cool:

 

Thank you all,

Charlie69

[nukeday]

I'm not sure why you do this either, but I'm sure glad you do! Thanks for the excellent photos, Mike. I did not envision it going together like that from the exploded drawing. Even in broad daylight, it's nearly impossible to see this assembly when it's on the truck buried in grease. Now, I think I'll be able to actually get these pieces.

[nukeday]

Messed around with the lights today, been so busy around the house I didn't get to it until pretty late.

 

My truck has L521 wiring, so the harness has 6 wires, this was to provide a switch setting for the optional fog lamps. The PL521 dropped this, and has only a 4 wire connection. I'm thinking the OEM 6 prong light switch is probably unobtanium. I got a 521 light switch from a ratsun member, and thinking it wasn't right, pulled another from the yard. They are both 4 prong. My first attempt switched from running & dash lights to headlights, while the running lamps and the dash lights turned off. Took another look at my diagrams and figured it out.

 

 

I ohmed out the switch to see how the + was switched and made an adapter from an old wiring harness.

 

 

1st position pulled:

 

 

 

2nd position pulled:

 

 

I was completely amazed that there were actually any operational bulbs on this truck. The rear lights are not even connected. I didn't try the high beams or the blinkers, I'll do that after I check the bulbs and maybe hook up something in the back.

 

I dug through some boxes tonight and I have a question about electronic distributors. I have 3 that I picked up from dat521kid in San Diego, but they are not the 'matchbox' style. They have a Hall effect pickup and a trigger wheel in the dizzy. What else do I need to use this in the J13? From Mike's NL thread, it looks like these will work, but they have a gear on the end, not a plastic thing. I'll try to get some photos tomorrow. I'm guessing they might be from an A series?

[mklotz70]

I didn't look at the A series dizzy too closely...it was definitely going to be a bit more work than the L series......but I don't recall why off hand. I want to say there was a bigger difference in how the gear mounted??? ....where the pin was placed? In order to get the vac adv positioned where I wanted it, I had to reclock the drive gear in the E1. If the pin on the A series is in a different position...maybe that will work better. Sorry I can't remember why I didn't want to use it. I actually still have one here too.

 

Other than mounting...you just need to get a GM HEI unit($20ish) and wire it in. I did a write up for PacCoast and he posted all his swap info somewhere. If he doesn't see this....pm him and ask him where he put it :)

[nukeday]

Thanks to the excellent photos from Mike, I was able to get the needed shifter pins and such in about 10 minutes. I put a small paneling nail in the hole in my shift linkage, and it fit perfectly. Took several with to the yard, to get the pin out.

 

 

 

I also found a 620 with an electronic ignition and an external box. The dizzy in the truck was the same as the dizzy's I picked up from dat521kid. I grabbed the box, but failed to note which year the truck was.

 

 

Here are the dizzy's I got in San Diego...

 

 

I was on my way out and stopped just for grins to check one more truck and I found this:

 

 

I did take a photo of the emissions sticker for this truck. L20 right?

 

 

So, I now have a Matchbox dizzy, 3 electronic dizzy's and one Electronic Ignition box, and two E1/J13 distributors. Plus there are probably a couple more in the box of 521 'ignition parts' I got from ADrummond. Seems like I should be able to make something work from all this mess.

 

In this pic, the one on the right has the vacuum advance in a different location than the other two, and the wiring exits from a different location. It looks like the keeper pin may be in a different location also (it looks closer to the dizzy body than the other two.) I'm thinking that one might be for an A series.

 

 

Got a few extra bits while at the yard as well. I'll put that stuff up in the for sale area. Also took a ton of photos of Datsun stuff in this yard, will post that in wrecking yard thread.

Edited July 23, 2009 by nukeday

[nukeday]

Minor update.

 

Finally got some time to work on the Brake/Clutch master cylinders. Got my rebuild kits from RockAuto.

 

I think the clutch master is recoverable, I've got it just about ready to put back together. The brake master is so rusted the piston is stuck in the bore, I broke down and ordered one.

 

I don't have the clutch slave off yet, but I have a kit for it too. Worst case, I can get one locally for about $20.

 

I'd really like to be able to drive this thing out of the garage...

[shancerlelby]

This is my new favorite thread, Subscribed!

[Jester]

I have a spare clutch master you can have if you want to come get it.

EDIT: I could also meet you at the Corvallis exit.

[sdsurf]

I have one you can have, cheap... It isn't perfect but salvageable

 

Hey nukeday, enjoyed the video of your truck runnung!!! Good score on the jy parts.

 

Is there anyway you might be able to check the 520 for the rubber peice on top of the heater? I need one mine fell apart.

 

Thank you,

Charlie

[nukeday]

Got the new brake master today, but no time to put it in.

 

Can I use a 3 blade wheel cylinder hone in the clutch master? Or just crocus cloth?

 

I'm beginning to acquire a little pile of parts to get it roadworthy, and it's driving me nuts not having the time to get them installed...:rolleyes:...

 

Hopefully the next update will show some progress.

[Charlie69]

I have used a brake cylinder hone on a slave cylinder with no problems. I use it carefully not doing any more thanis necessary.

[mike]

Use 1000 grit wet dry sandpaper on the clutch master, clean it as much as possible first and then go for it. Its slow going but it works great and is cheap. Ive used the bar hones on brake and master cylinders before and they take off too much meat from the inner diameter of the cylinder.

[nukeday]

Thanks for the comments.

 

After looking at the front end a bit more closely, I ordered the upper dogbone to A arm bushings. My question is: Can I replace these bushings without messing with the torsion bars? Seems like I should be able to jack the truck up, put a jack under the lower A arms and just pull the bolt for the top A arm. From what I can see, I should be able to install the new bushings without removing the dogbone.

 

Any experience or suggestions for doing this without getting killed would be appreciated. I'm hoping to leave the hub and brakes on the truck. It looks like I should be able to just pull the A arm bolt and swing the dogbone/brake down, replace the bushings and swing it back up and bolt it back together. Am I missing something?

 

Thanks!

[nukeday]

OK, got the clutch master rebuilt. Extra big photo if anyone needs the Dorman PN.

 

 

Now the obvious issue is the line going into the slave. It looks like it's just so old it's seeping. With it mounted on the truck, I can't figure out how the soft line is connected to the slave. Is it a screw in fitting? I'm not 100% that the line is bad, but it's the only moist spot on the whole truck, lol. Maybe it's just leaking where it attaches, but it's wet about 6" up from the fitting, and the top is completely dry. Anyone have a PN?

 

 

No sense rebuilding the slave until I can locate this soft line. At least I actually DID something on this thing for a change...

Edited September 17, 2009 by nukeday

[Jester]

They screw in. 16mm I think. There is a copper washer between the line and the slave. Crack the line loose, at the slave, THEN remove the other end. Once the small end is off you can just spin the line out of the slave leaving it bolted to the truck.

[banzai510(hainz)]

you can get new slaves from Rockauto.com there are 521 spec as the line come from the front as the torsion bar is in the way if you use a 510-240sx one.

 

I would get a new one. I tried rebuilding them and the thing would work for 2/3 days then suck in air. It woulndt loose oil but sucked in air. I said fuck it and got another slave.

 

 

the slaves get wet usually as they wear.