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521 Rescue


nukeday

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First, let me say I have a great deal of respect and admiration for MKlotz. He and I have been PM'ing a little bit back and forth on my truck. He gently goaded me a bit about it NOT running, and NOT knowing if it will....

 

Thanks Mike! I tried today, but ran out of time...lol...

 

I did find the correct cooling fan, spacer, alt bracket and shifter. I'd missed one box of my dad's stuff, and of course it's the one I kept tripping over, but never looked in. :o

 

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Here's where I started today:

 

First thing was the alt. bracket and cooling fan.

 

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Here's the intake.

 

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Here's my 'masterpiece':

 

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Yup, it's a 7 HP Briggs carb. The box thing will probably leak air like crazy, and I have NO idea if it will even work. It was an interesting exercise in tin snip technology and .49 cent Christmas tins.

 

Once that mess was together, I cleaned up the T-stat, housing, bolts, etc. I had to make a new gasket also. I put the housing on a 2x12 with a big sheet of 220 grit and figure 8'd it for about 10 minutes. Hopefully that will flatten out the face a bit. It was pretty corroded.

 

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Changed out the spark plug wires, the set that was in there were all about 3ft long each. Weird. Set the radiator in place, and it started raining, so that's all for today. I still need to plug the water temp hole in order to put water in it.

 

Maybe I'll get it turned over tomorrow.

 

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Hello,

I am not 100% positive of most of the stuff that I do, but I will offer what ever help I can.

 

On the pic of the alt that you want to use I only see two wires, yellow & green. Does it have a built in voltage regulator?

 

I replaced my alternator with a newer one that a friend gave me. I don't know what it came from, but I think he told me it was a forklift. The alt has a built in voltage regulator, so I took the old Datsun one out. I ran the two wires (yellow & green) to the old regulator harness and plugged them into the two wires (white/red & black?)that control the ignition light on the dash. I can't remember if it matters which wires I hooked them to, but I don't think so. It just closes the circuit or something like that, and makes the light on the dash come on when the truck isn't running and the ign is on. I suppose it will also turn the light on when the truck IS running but not charging above 12volts. I haven't really checked into that yet.

 

Anyway, here are some pics. If you want any pics of anything please let me know. I will try to get them for you.

 

Alan

 

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Had to fix me up a 'jethro' tarp thing to cover the engine bay today, but I did go out and wire this thing up.

 

Mike reminded me that I only need a + from batt to coil, + to starter and a ground and it should turn over. So I did that, and didn't get it to fire, but it did turn over. I finalized the wiring, and then tried it from the key inside. Here it is ready to test.

 

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I sanded the points a little bit, found the - wire was just wrapped around the stud at the dizzy, and 1/2 broken at the coil. Replaced that, and tried to crank it several times. Sprayed a little starter fluid in the intake...

 

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Then it dawned on me....hey....

 

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See what's missing? Besides the oil pressure sender? (Pumped out 1/2 a quart of oil before I figured out what was missing.) Bleah....LOL...

 

I put one in, and stuck a bolt in the hole, but it still won't pass a spark to #1. I was just getting ready to find out why and my wife came running outside to tell me that we have a roof leak in the kitchen. The stove fan vent is leaking right on the range top, through the fan, and into the light. Ack.

 

My dad shows up Friday with a carb, I'm really hoping to have it fire before he gets here.

 

I need to go refresh my memory on how to set up points in a non-running rig (i.e. in Static mode). Feel free to give me some pointers. I have to go find a leak in my roof...

Edited by nukeday
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Nuke love the adapter made from the tin :D To set the points youll want the part of the points that rub against the shaft to be on a high spot or the "corner" of it. Then loosen the 2 screws on the points a bit & adjust until you get the gap you need. If you dont have a feeler gauge a match will be a close enough gap.

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...the cardboard kind...right? Wooden would be a bit much.

 

I'd check a couple of things before jumping in and changing more....you may add a prob.

 

Put your test light from the neg term on the coil to the pos on the batt.....yep...backward of what you're used to. Crank the eng and watch for the light to flash. If it does, put a spark plug in the dizzy end of the coil wire.....other end still in the coil.....ground the body of the plug and crank the eng. Did you get a spark? If not, either the coil or the wire is bad....that's assuming you know for sure your wire is good.

 

If you didn't get a flashing light...the points or the wire to them are not good. The ground to the dizzy may not be good. You can now take the test light from the neg of the coil and touch it to the body of the dizzy....if it lights, you have a good ground. Now touch the plate the points are mounted on...lights? good. If the points are closed, touch both sides.....they should both light up. If only the fixed side lights.....filethe points some more or adjust them....they're not quite touching. If both sides light up, hold them apart, only the fixed side should light up the light now. If both sides lit up....your neg term on the coil should now light the light. If that term keeps the light on constantly....the points aren't opening. So....flashing neg term while cranking...... (ask PacCoast about how long this takes in text verses over the phone :)

 

If you have a spark, put the wire back in the dizzy and pull any one of the plug wires. Do the same thing with the plug...crank....no spark, it's either the cap or the wire. Clean the contacts inside the cap and the end of the rotor......also double check that the rotor is the right one....I helped a buddy that had the wrong one in and it was too short to reach. If you have jumper cables...use one end of the neg one to hold the spark plug at the threads and clamp the other end to the batt neg. Very dependable way to ensure the plug has a good ground.

 

If you get spark at one plug....check the other three. If you have spark at the wires, but it still won't fire....check the actual plugs in the holes...make sure they spark. If they do...double check your firing order and make sure plug one is lined up at TDC. Make sure it's TDC of the compression stroke.

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PacCoast - I'm not sure the tin will actually work, but it certainly looks festive doesn't it? :rolleyes: lol...there is a bit of concern about backfiring, among other fire related dangers...

 

MKlotz70 - Wow, Mike! How do you remember all of that? :eek: Do you have a flow chart or something? Is this process on a page somewhere? Seems like it deserves to be, I'm an idiot when it comes to points. I'm sure this would be very useful to a lot of people. I do have an old school RPM/Dwell meter here, but it's not much use unless stuff is moving. I'm in full agreement on the 'don't change anything I don't need to' mentality. I haven't adjusted the timing, or the points. I swapped the coil only because I pulled the rusted + stud out when I put the lead on. Just enough to make me nervous, and I had the new one here.

 

As usual, amazing. I'd like to go out and do this after the kids are in bed, but I'm not sure how hard it's raining. You've got me all amp'd up to find out what's up! Saved me a bunch of time researching this, I really, sincerely appreciate it.

Edited by nukeday
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Jester - tomorrow, I hope. I just realized the truck is pretty close to the neighbor's kid's room. Probably better to do it in the morning.

 

More questions though, as I look over the stuff I've got here.

 

The radiator I have with a short neck has bolt holes in the wrong spots. The top two would work, but the lower two are about 6" below the captive nuts in the core support. The other rad is the same, but their is no way the hood would close with the tall neck. Is there a specific rad for the 1300?

 

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I realize I can simply drill the correct holes, which is what I'll probably do. I'm just curious. It still looks like the rad cap will be precariously close to the hood if I use the top holes...

Edited by nukeday
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You might consider simply putting a 1/2" (or one thick enough to put the top of the radiator where you want it) piece of wood under the radiator for spacing, then drill 4 new holes. Two new ones in the core support to match the location of the upper holes. Two completely new ones lower down in the bottom ones don't line up with anything.

 

As for the troubleshooting.....ask Pac how many pm's we went through trying to get his 320 going. :) I finally called him and it was started in about 10 min......or at least we found the prob that quick. I'm not an expert, but it's pretty much what I do...have done for the last 25+ years. Some guys can tell you what a tight end does on a football field.....if that's not a reference to the cheerleaders...then I have no clue :) If I watch the superbowl...Paula has to explain the calls to me :) It's just where we focus our energies....I'm sure you could blow my mind on the stuff that you're into :)

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As for the troubleshooting.....ask Pac how many pm's we went through trying to get his 320 going. :) I finally called him and it was started in about 10 min......or at least we found the prob that quick. I'm not an expert, but it's pretty much what I do...have done for the last 25+ years.

Nuke, Mike is right & it ended up being the dist. was grounding out. Fixed it with a plastic milk container :D All Datsun motor ar every basic & somewhat easy to fix & maintain. Chances are yours will fire up w/ some basic tinkering. Print that page w/ all the steps Mike mentioned & take it to the truck,,it'll save trips back into the house ;)

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....and for pete's sake....buy a test light!!!! :)

 

I get a bit abbreviated when typing so the clarity isn't as good as talking in person....but I tend to try to exhaust the text option first :) More people can get the info from the text...only one if by phone :)

Edited by mklotz70
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Mike - I've got a test light :) I will redrill the Rad. It fits alright, but I think it is a bit high, the core section is actually an inch longer than the other one. Interesting that with the tall filler neck, they end up being the same overall height top to bottom. Thank you Mike.

 

PacCoast - Printed it last night, even drew out a little flow chart thing with yes/no, and then the next step.

 

Redeye - I've been bugging Mike for several days, and feeling a bit in over my head. He's been really great about it.

 

Still trying to chase down a roof leak, looks like my ridge cap is compromised somewhere. It's not been a real great night, I shut off all the breakers in the kitchen about 1:30 last night. I just couldn't get to sleep for fear of a fire. :(

 

I'll post more when I get time to delve into this. Thanks for checking in.

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I hope the cookies from that tin were delicious!!! :D

 

That's some true Rat-creativity! might explode off of there- but it'd sound cool!!

 

Kidding aside- I like the approach you've got here- can't wait to see it run!

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Ive recently re-seam sealed my drip rails and there were 2 locations that concerned me while doing it. On the side, right near the bend at the rear corner of the cab, there is a vertical seam. That is where most of my rust was located. The rest of the rail is smooth pinch weld and is unlikely to be your culprit.

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I just got done reading everything and it reminded me of the the time i redid a 1939 dodge 1 1/2 ton.Pain in the ass, good work nuke!! i'll start working on my PL521 soon i really miss the old ones there sooo much fun.

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Thanks Andy...

 

I'd been working on this every day for nearly a month, but life has thrown quite a load at me, all at one time. I'm chewing my way through it, and plan to be back after this rig sometime this week.

 

PS - The ridge cap IS on my roof, and I *think* I've got the leak stopped. Not sure I can say the same about the drip rail...

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Nukeday,Hope you got the roof and drip rail fixed.I got a hold of the guy i bought the truck from.He told me he has a lot of extra parts that he is giving to me.I will let you and everybody know what they are.I'm new to datsun so don't :lol: to much at me if i don't know what i'm say.but correct me.

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Mike - very funny...:D You've seen my floors right? Actually, I'm pretty sure most of my floor rot is due to the cowl vent leaking. When I finally get it closed up there, then I'll have a better idea where else it leaks. Honestly, the drip rail looks pretty good on this truck.

 

Andy - I've got a tarp on the roof, and on the truck. On the house, I had the tarp up and still had water coming down the stove vent, it stopped raining, then when it started again it's been dry since. I tacked down a couple of ridge cap shingles, and I must have gotten lucky.

 

Got TWO large boxes of parts from Charlie69 today, and had really hoped to be working on the truck. Gonna' be another day or two though. THANK YOU CHARLIE! I'll post some photos of the goodies when I get time to get the boxes open.

 

I've got a pear and an apple tree laying all over my yard, my wife's PC dumped and lost about 90GB of photos (on a RAID SATA set up), and my minivan lost the water pump and the oil pan is so full of sludge that it's blocking the pump pickup. So, my tax return is gone already, and I'm a tired & busy boy.

 

Life sure is interesting, two weeks ago had all these things happened I'd have been in very bad shape. As it stands, I'll be able to stave off the wolves for another month or so. Continued incentive to get the truck together, I guess?!

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