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So I didn't see a thread with any build Bloopers so I figured I'll get this ball rolling...

 

Post up your pics of funny stuff you see when you work on your Datsun, maybe it was the previous owner, maybe it was your first build, no judgment just humor!

 

 

 

 

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So I didn't see a thread with any build Bloopers so I figured I'll get this ball rolling...

 

Post up your pics of funny stuff you see when you work on your Datsun, maybe it was the previous owner, maybe it was your first build, no judgment just humor!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great way to hold the trans up I guess...lol

10660901_842633419102835_1675829342_n.jp10660736_842633355769508_2059598152_n.jp

10685139_842633515769492_183635182_n.jpg

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When I got my datsun it was already SR20 swapped. I drove it for a few days before it showed signs of a blown head gasket. Went to replace the head gasket and found a cheapo gasket with orange silicon on both sides. The head looked like it had been belt sanded for a finish. 
 

 

 

 

IMG_20140805_150109657.jpg

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 Good try there Fatso

 

So when I showed up to buy this car the PO was building it for either a 4.3L GM V6 or a VG30...

 

He had flipped and welded the supports for the rack but beings as it is an S30 rack it is on the wrong side of the cross-member and the wheels turn backwards?

 

Also the rack mounts are too out of square for me to feel comfortable using an MR2 rack or something else, I'm not a fab guy so I will leave that to the pro's!

 

SO to answer your question it's garbage for now and will collect dust for awhile!

 

10603389_684516501628255_50319971806971010464343_684516018294970_777259193321602

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^^^YEP^^^Let's just say that rack won't work there...think about which way the wheels turn when mounted properly in a Z car on the front side of the cross-member...put it on the opposite side and what do you get... a backwards steering wheel...

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Not terribly critical, but how about an iron-on denim patch used instead of a drain plug?  

 

rfloor.JPG

 

How about a custom extension on top of the trans tunnel?  The welds had so many gaps in them, they smeared undercoating all over it to block up some of the gaps.  Very custom work :)

 

tunnel.JPG

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This happened yesterday. I was about 5 miles from home and getting food for my 18th birthday party when I went to check something under the hood. It seemed fine. Went to close the hood and it took 3 trys. Never happens. Then I hear a hiss and I see coolent spaying from the rad. Drove home faster then ever. Turns out the latch support bold came out of the bottom and the rod bent into the rad and crushed a few fins. C68E7FA0-3680-48F6-804F-E0C294B34CC9_zps

 

I'm really hoping my boss can get the seallent off when I bring the rad in on Monday.

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No pics because it was long, long before digital cameras were affordable, but when I got my "Blue Beater" '78 510 Coupe parts car (that I ended up driving for over 100K miles) it had the following... "enhancements":

 

1) Roof liner made from a flannel blanket (still in the car today)

 

2) Visor covers made from a floral-print quilted bedspread (I tore one off, and the mess of glue underneath made me leave the passenger side one as-was, until I could find another set of visors.  Never happened.)

 

3) Roof rack made from 1X2s and aluminum tubing from a lawn chair, screwed through the roof with 1/2" diameter lag bolts that were so long they stuck into the flannel roof liner

 

4) A Leviton light switch as an ignition switch

 

5) A doorbell button as a starter switch

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Now, my '78 620 4X4 I do have pics of an interesting build screw up:

 

 

 

Something looks a bit odd with that rear main bearing cap...

bearing5.JPG

 

 

 

Lets take the cap off:

 

bearing6.JPG

 

That's NOT supposed to be there.  That's the #3 (center) main bearing, installed on the #5 web. The guy installed the main bearings in the same order that they came in the package, not the order they were supposed to be installed: Thrust washer in the middle #3 web, wide bearings in #1 and #5, narrow on #2 and #4.  He had the narrow ones on #1 and #2, the wide ones on #3 and #4, and the thrust washer on #5.

 

The symptoms that caused me to pull the engine in the first place was a 15 degree change in static timing depending on if the truck was facing uphill or downhill (lots of backfiring to go with that) and the fact that the flywheel was rubbing on the starter case.  It had about 1/4" axial endplay on the crankshaft...  and a lot of metal shavings in the oil filter.

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Swapping my Automatic transmission in my 240Z over to a 5-speed; while I was enlarging the shifter hole to specs, my hand slipped and the blade nicked the brake line... Needless to say, I spent all of today redoing brake lines. Still haven't finished the tranny-swap. :/

~Peter

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Now, my '78 620 4X4 I do have pics of an interesting build screw up:

 

 

 

Something looks a bit odd with that rear main bearing cap...

bearing5.JPG

 

 

 

Lets take the cap off:

 

bearing6.JPG

 

That's NOT supposed to be there.  That's the #3 (center) main bearing, installed on the #5 web. The guy installed the main bearings in the same order that they came in the package, not the order they were supposed to be installed: Thrust washer in the middle #3 web, wide bearings in #1 and #5, narrow on #2 and #4.  He had the narrow ones on #1 and #2, the wide ones on #3 and #4, and the thrust washer on #5.

 

The symptoms that caused me to pull the engine in the first place was a 15 degree change in static timing depending on if the truck was facing uphill or downhill (lots of backfiring to go with that) and the fact that the flywheel was rubbing on the starter case.  It had about 1/4" axial endplay on the crankshaft...  and a lot of metal shavings in the oil filter.

 

 

That is awesome.. lol 

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Swapping my Automatic transmission in my 240Z over to a 5-speed; while I was enlarging the shifter hole to specs, my hand slipped and the blade nicked the brake line... Needless to say, I spent all of today redoing brake lines. Still haven't finished the tranny-swap. :/

~Peter

 

Sounds like something I would do.. one step forward.. 3 steps back.

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Now, my '78 620 4X4 I do have pics of an interesting build screw up:

 

 

 

Something looks a bit odd with that rear main bearing cap...

bearing5.JPG

 

 

 

Lets take the cap off:

 

bearing6.JPG

 

That's NOT supposed to be there.  That's the #3 (center) main bearing, installed on the #5 web. The guy installed the main bearings in the same order that they came in the package, not the order they were supposed to be installed: Thrust washer in the middle #3 web, wide bearings in #1 and #5, narrow on #2 and #4.  He had the narrow ones on #1 and #2, the wide ones on #3 and #4, and the thrust washer on #5.

 

The symptoms that caused me to pull the engine in the first place was a 15 degree change in static timing depending on if the truck was facing uphill or downhill (lots of backfiring to go with that) and the fact that the flywheel was rubbing on the starter case.  It had about 1/4" axial endplay on the crankshaft...  and a lot of metal shavings in the oil filter.

Not to mention the lack of oil pressure...

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mine has suffered abuse at the hands of two elderly previous owners in the form of:

solid black and crumbling air filter element.

 

ran without a gas cap for a couple of decades.

got a leaking window seal? seal that shit up with bathtub caulk!

OEM steering wheel trim falling off? stick that shit on with bathtub caulk!

driver's side rear view mirror fell out? stick it back in place with......!?! yup. bathtub caulk.

 

OEM driver's bucket seat collapsed because of your 325lb fluffiness? replace it (and only it!) with one you pulled out of a Fuckifiknow.

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Not to mention the lack of oil pressure...

 

It actually never had bad oil pressure... 30 at warm idle, 60 over 1500 RPMs.  The crank was undamaged, just some odd wear on a normally non-wear surface from the thrust washer being in the wrong place.  I changed the bearings without even removing the crank (just pulled the caps), it's run fine ever since.

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