Project Datstang

[Bory]

So I'm getting started on the flush mount windshield, which will allow the bonding method rather than the rubber gasket, there is 2 ways of getting this done,

1. Cut a larger ws,

2. Make the receptacle smaller.

I Have been quoted up to 7000 bucks for a bigger ws.

So I'm gonna do the latter.

That's why BH's haha

[Bory]

[mklotz70]

That's why BH's haha

Oh....you have a new stock size ws coming....?  Where did you find a grey tinted one......and is it only tinted at the top?

[Bory]

 

 

The whole WS will match this tint right here

[mklotz70]

....so you're buying a new, stock sized WS in this grey?  Where did you find that?  Do they have clear?  Are they making it to order?

[DAT510]

^^^ what he asked ^^^

If you could reveal that information that would be grand :))

[Bory]

Not sure if he can do clear,but he's a mobile glass guy, had his number for years

[Charlie69]

I like the grey tinted glass great choice.  Is it UV protected.

 

You are definitely not afraid to cut up a truck!!!  LOL

[Bory]

 

This is the side fill pieces

[mrbigtanker]

This will be something to see.

[Bory]

 

 

Here I have the back and front flanges installed, for that 1/2" extension needed, in rough form of course.

[Jester]

Fantastic work! 

 

Now I want to see the inside.  :poke:

[Bory]

Didn't get a shot of the top angle piece as it was going in,

But it was the most challenging, to make, it has a radius which the only way I could do that was to cut a notch every 1/2" that was on the return area that meets the flange I extended, once it was tacked int place, every notch had to be welded up.

[Charlie69]

Looks like a lot of work!  You sir do some clean work!

[Bory]

Thanks C6!

 

Since I used the WS I had, instead of the tinted one that is coming, I made it ttight so I can custom fit the new one,

So this pic I Havnt quite finished this one cus why? Too time consuming. But you get the idea.

[Bory]

 

So after a little massaging, the glass fits pretty good, I do have a few areas that are low, but a bit of lead fill will do the trick, I hate doing things for the 1st time, but glad I did!

[Bory]

 

More of the drivers side

[Bory]

[Bory]

Well as some of you seen these parts on mikes build, he was talking about the contact the coil was making on the inside of the shock tower, with my tower stretched 3",

It pushes the coil away from the tower to create the clearance I need. So to make the shock work correctly, I had to lengthen the rod, to allow the shock to have its full range of motion. Now I just have to figure if it's gonna be low enough, or if I'm gonna have to get some bell techs.

[Bory]

[mklotz70]

Sure wish I would have remember that I didn't need to make the tie rod connectors for your setup.  

[Bory]

Ya was never sure what you were making for me, or what your gonna offer on the kit, I'll send those back to you for someone with factory steering.

[mklotz70]

It's fine.  I was trying to keep it geared to what would be in the kit.  If there's more, they will be out of hex rod.  Don't forget....I need the 13" rotor back.  If you send the connectors back, great....if not, meh.

[Bory]

As you can see here the bump steer end link, needs all the spacers in the kit, but it will work great. To avoid bump steer, the steering arm and the lower control arm, have to be parallel.

[Bory]

So as you can see it the last pic, that the rack steering is compressed on the right side, so it's turned to full lock to the lft, and the right spindle is towed out quit a bit,

So my tie rod has to be shortened, so I cut 3" out of the center of the link off the rack, and tacked it back together saving the factory threads, the aluminum, adjuster that came with the bump steer kit, I'm going to cut 2" out of the center, hopefully that will get me close.