Bory Posted March 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Drivers side view 3 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 Hope you have been busy on this. We are looking for some progress here. :poke: 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted March 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Thanks J Lost my email I started this account with so now I'm back and runnin! Here is my newly finished wheel order It's a 20"x10" with a 6" back space 5 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Tucked up under 3 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Ya I hear ya, but keep in mind that the frame rail is of boxed in design, which makes it way stronger, plus now that the leaf springs are gone all engine torque is now in front of the notch, thanks to the new 4 link, huh? Yes, but all the load from the suspension is now behind the weakest part of the frame. This will act as a lever and the "hinge" will be at the notch, the thinnest part of the structure. You will likely see fatigue failures (cracks) there over time. At the least you should reinforce the notch, the best thing would be to move the coil overs in front of the notch. Up to you though. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Getting ready for rear glass cut, gonna do a flush mount glu down with trim rubber rather than the factory rubber, to do this the glass has to be larger on all sides. So after using factory glass as a pattern, I cut it into 1/4's, Allowing to stretch it to size and fine tune the shape with a Popsicle stick for end gap. So this is showing the finished pattern for my glass guy to cut to match the grey one piece side glass. 3 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Tucked up under FUCK YA!!!! Can't wait to see the whole truck roll'n on these. 3 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted March 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2016 Love your enthusiasm J! Can't hang the front till I get some balljoint suspension bits back from blu hands! But we have a dead line of April fools day. Oh shoot he's gonna mess with me now!! 3 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted March 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2016 Here are the fronts, 18x 7" with a 4.5" offset. 2 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted March 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2016 A look at the option e brake wilwood offers on the rear 8.8 ford rear end 2 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted March 26, 2016 Report Share Posted March 26, 2016 Look how sick the direction mike blu hands genious is headed in with my 13" front rotor set up! Soooooo, where are we on these? I want to see those front on. :frantics: Are the Wilwood kits for the factory drum rear? 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted March 26, 2016 Report Share Posted March 26, 2016 Love your enthusiasm J! Can't hang the front till I get some balljoint suspension bits back from blu hands! But we have a dead line of April fools day. Oh shoot he's gonna mess with me now!! ......did I say this year? :) 2 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted March 26, 2016 Report Share Posted March 26, 2016 Nearly everything I do is in vid these days so I rarely upload pics to my photobucket anymore. Seems all the vids related to the ball joint mod are still waiting to be edited. I put out updates quite often, but they're on Instagram....which I typically share to my facebook, as well. Anyway....I just put up a good pic of the CAD art for the UCA. :) 5 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted March 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2016 Blu Hands! That is absolutely Gorgeous!! Can't believe I'll be one of the first ones to run this set up, and also with 5 lug!! I'm starting a count down right now. To the 1st! Just like my kids do at Christmas! 2 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 It won't look exactly like that, but pretty close. Figured out how to bore the hole for the cup on the LCA pivot today.....worked great on the test piece. I'll do the 4 real arms tomorrow. I got the plates prepped for the UCA arms....hopefully, start milling on those tomorrow too. 90% of the work is complete on the tierod connectors. 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 In process pics..... The tierod connectors from the HB setup are very close.....but the thread engagement is already at the min.....so I need another inch of engagement to feel comfortable. They're going to be really beefy, but it's material I already have on hand. The hex shaped one is stock, the round part is the raw blank, waiting to be machined and tapped with both left and right M16x1.5 taps. The other 4 pieces are the cups for the LCA pivot. These are the tension control rod mounts that will attach to the HB LCA on the underside, near the ball joint. The HB TC rod simply bolts to the LCA.....but this setup needs to use the stock kingpin TC rod for a couple of reasons. The frosted one is the test piece made several years ago. The other 4 pieces are the new ones that were milled out and then bent. I still need to make the attachment plates. I used the cnc mill to machine the pivot hole out to the size needed for the "cup". The cup narrows the arm so that the 521 sun bolt can be used.....which will clear the steering linkage. 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted March 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 So I went with tanks inc. for fuel tank, it's a uni unit. 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted March 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Here's a 3/4 angle so far it seems pretty good as per sending unit and fuely pump which was all extra. But now have15.5 gallons should work good with the atomic MSD fuel injection. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Love you build man. Keep it up. Hurry the hell up Klotz! :poke: :lol: 2 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Hurry the hell up Klotz! :poke: :lol: Things would go a lot faster if I had someone to massage my balls while I'm working!!!! :) Seriously......I haven't been this busy in years!! I think I've been in the shop everyday for the last 3-4 weeks. I came home friday morning at 7:50am....was in the shop working at 8am.....did not leave the shop until 2:30pm.....not even to take a piss! Haven't felt this kind of pain in years! I'm so taking a break after this has shipped!! :) The work hasn't been entirely on these parts....had to work on the mill in preparation for these parts.....got the Powermatic bandsaw working.....to make these parts.....brought in the second sandblast cabinet(nearly done with it's mods) for these parts.........so busy!! 3 Quote Link to comment
ol' 320 Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Mike (Mr. Bluehands): Your work on "proper" A-arms for a balljoint conversion is fascinating. Bory, I recently sold a 400-hp SBF TR-6. Reading this build makes me want to take a ride in your truck. I bet this is a well-balanced driver when it is done. You seem to have thought carefully about your modifications and I am anxious to see the final version. I bet that a/c will work sweet, too. The TR had a Jack Roush SBF with dual fours, WC custom geared T5 and four bar 3.25 Currie rear. It used a frontrunner setup too, with Compact Mini a/c. I wish it had been built with efi, but with a fresh tight mill and .63 OD it still got 20 mpg averaging 85 for 2,700 mile trip back to Calif from Florida. This will be a very nice truck. Just don't add up your parts invoices ... lol! You don't really want to know. Are you going to take it to JCCS? 2 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted March 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Thanks O3, Ya this build leaves no room for error cus there's no room to start with. So your right on how much time is being spent on design, and layout. I have to do a remote condenser that I just got, it was gonna put it under the rear, and the fuel tank in the back of the bed, and I decided to reverse that order, so radiator and condenser will be drawing fresh air from two different locations.sounds like your 6 was a blast to own!! Prolly not gonna have the Darstang ready for that run. 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted March 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 The straps worked out pretty well, I mounted the pivot bolt on the channel I made for the new bed location. So it will be mounted to the bed and the frame 2 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted March 28, 2016 Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 I don't want to keep posting my stuff in Bory's thread and essentially, double posting the same stuff........so maybe I'll just throw a link in when I put new stuff up in my thread. The "Mend" project is what the ball joints were originally being designed for. I'll probably post the brake stuff here when I get to it in a day or two. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/8175-mklotz70-project-mend/page-41?do=findComment&comment=1367522 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted March 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 Ya that sounds great to me!! 1 Quote Link to comment
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