Bory Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 So I'm getting started on the flush mount windshield, which will allow the bonding method rather than the rubber gasket, there is 2 ways of getting this done, 1. Cut a larger ws, 2. Make the receptacle smaller. I Have been quoted up to 7000 bucks for a bigger ws. So I'm gonna do the latter. That's why BH's haha 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 That's why BH's haha Oh....you have a new stock size ws coming....? Where did you find a grey tinted one......and is it only tinted at the top? 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 The whole WS will match this tint right here 2 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 ....so you're buying a new, stock sized WS in this grey? Where did you find that? Do they have clear? Are they making it to order? 2 Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 ^^^ what he asked ^^^ If you could reveal that information that would be grand :)) 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Not sure if he can do clear,but he's a mobile glass guy, had his number for years 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 I like the grey tinted glass great choice. Is it UV protected. You are definitely not afraid to cut up a truck!!! LOL Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted May 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 This is the side fill pieces 5 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 This will be something to see. 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted May 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Here I have the back and front flanges installed, for that 1/2" extension needed, in rough form of course. 4 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Fantastic work! Now I want to see the inside. :poke: 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted May 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Didn't get a shot of the top angle piece as it was going in, But it was the most challenging, to make, it has a radius which the only way I could do that was to cut a notch every 1/2" that was on the return area that meets the flange I extended, once it was tacked int place, every notch had to be welded up. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Looks like a lot of work! You sir do some clean work! 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted May 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 Thanks C6! Since I used the WS I had, instead of the tinted one that is coming, I made it ttight so I can custom fit the new one, So this pic I Havnt quite finished this one cus why? Too time consuming. But you get the idea. 5 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 So after a little massaging, the glass fits pretty good, I do have a few areas that are low, but a bit of lead fill will do the trick, I hate doing things for the 1st time, but glad I did! 3 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 More of the drivers side 3 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Well as some of you seen these parts on mikes build, he was talking about the contact the coil was making on the inside of the shock tower, with my tower stretched 3", It pushes the coil away from the tower to create the clearance I need. So to make the shock work correctly, I had to lengthen the rod, to allow the shock to have its full range of motion. Now I just have to figure if it's gonna be low enough, or if I'm gonna have to get some bell techs. 3 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 Sure wish I would have remember that I didn't need to make the tie rod connectors for your setup. 2 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted May 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 Ya was never sure what you were making for me, or what your gonna offer on the kit, I'll send those back to you for someone with factory steering. 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 It's fine. I was trying to keep it geared to what would be in the kit. If there's more, they will be out of hex rod. Don't forget....I need the 13" rotor back. If you send the connectors back, great....if not, meh. 2 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 As you can see here the bump steer end link, needs all the spacers in the kit, but it will work great. To avoid bump steer, the steering arm and the lower control arm, have to be parallel. 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted May 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 So as you can see it the last pic, that the rack steering is compressed on the right side, so it's turned to full lock to the lft, and the right spindle is towed out quit a bit, So my tie rod has to be shortened, so I cut 3" out of the center of the link off the rack, and tacked it back together saving the factory threads, the aluminum, adjuster that came with the bump steer kit, I'm going to cut 2" out of the center, hopefully that will get me close. 1 Quote Link to comment
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