jalen Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 So I swapped in a new motor in my dime. (100 miles Before the swap I replaced the clutch cylinder and everything was in working order.) After I swapped in the engine and tranny. Which are both good and a brand new clutch. It wont build pressure when we try bleeding the clutch. I dont see any leaks. Can anybody help? Quote Link to comment
filthy forever Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 same thing happened to my brother. it might be the piston seals in the clutch master, or slave cylinder, went bad. Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted June 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 I don't see how it can go bad that fast. The master cylinder is pretty damn new. Has maybe 100 miles on it Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 So I swapped in a new motor in my dime. (100 miles Before the swap I replaced the master cylinder and everything was in working order.) After I swapped in the engine and tranny. Which are both good and a brand new clutch. It wont build pressure when we try bleeding the brakes. I dont see any leaks. Can anybody help? ^^^ ? but if you are bleeding clutch slave cylinder,, is the bleeder screw on the top ? if it is pointing down some times air gets trapped on the top and it doesn`t take much to give squishy feel .. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 Same issue here after my LZ swap. Blew out a seal on the master. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 I don't see how it can go bad that fast. The master cylinder is pretty damn new. Has maybe 100 miles on it You're applying logic to garbage aftermarket stuff.Stop.You'll drive yourself nuts.It's by-passing internally.I had FOUR bad T-stats in a row.No rhyme or reason to these parts quitting. 1 Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted June 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 ^^^ ? but if you are bleeding clutch slave cylinder,, is the bleeder screw on the top ? if it is pointing down some times air gets trapped on the top and it doesn`t take much to give squishy feel .. The bleeder screw is facing to the side. After 6 mins of pumping it felt the same. There are no leaks anywhere. You're applying logic to garbage aftermarket stuff.Stop.You'll drive yourself nuts.It's by-passing internally.I had FOUR bad T-stats in a row.No rhyme or reason to these parts quitting. Yeah I'm just saying i find it unusual for it to be working one day at 100% and a few days later it working at 0. And I think it was a NOS part Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 Brake or clutch master?????? TITLE: Clutch won't gain pressure when bleeding So I swapped in a new motor in my dime. (100 miles Before the swap I replaced the master cylinder and everything was in working order.) After I swapped in the engine and tranny. Which are both good and a brand new clutch. It wont build pressure when we try bleeding the brakes. I dont see any leaks. Can anybody help? Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted June 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 Sorry, it's the clutch not the brakes. I edited the original post Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 Make sure you adjusted the rod from the slave to the clutch fork if it is adjustable OR make sure it's the right length rod. When I picked up my wagon it felt like it wasn't building pressure but it turned out that when the PO installed the new slave, the rod was way out of adjustment. Easy thing to forget when swapping a bunch of parts at the same time. Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted June 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 I went and looked under the dime again. And realized that the rod is not there. Time to go find that....could that be the reason why it won't build pressure? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 Yup. Probably popped the piston and seal out too. Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted June 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 By the looks of it I'm guessing this is the rod. I have the rubber boot. What else goes with it? Because I know that of I put the rod in there there is a lot Of room Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 tristinGrind, on 14 May 2013 - 4:42 PM, said: Does that include me? Someone who grew up in Venice Beach wears girls jeans daily and was a submariner for 8 years... Im like one package of eye-liner away from being full homo. No way, it just means that the zipper in the pocket is the closest you could come to "13 chances for a girl to say 'no' ". Now let's see if anyone else can figure out what that means. My brother-in-law crewed on the Nautilus BTW. Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 Alright, so slave cylinder is all hooked up. I pulled the line clutch after it exits the master cylinder and brake fluid was coming out. Now ill try to bleed the clutch slave again Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 Remove the clutch master & bench bleed it 1st. Reinstall on firewall..reattach clutch line..then bleed the clutch slave. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 By the looks of it I have the rubber boot. What else goes with it? Because I know that of I put the rod in there there is a lot Of room There is a spring in there also ,, to lazy to load photobucket cuz i'm at my bedtime but picture in link shows it http://www.lulusoso.com/upload/20120414/Clutch_Slave_Cylinder_Repair_Kits_FOR_NISSAN.jpg Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 There is a spring in there also ,, to lazy to load photobucket cuz i'm at my bedtime but picture in link shows it http://www.lulusoso.com/upload/20120414/Clutch_Slave_Cylinder_Repair_Kits_FOR_NISSAN.jpg I might have to borrow a spring from something else because I'm not seeming to find it. Is it absolutely neccasary? Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 plastic? cup at the back as well. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 Remove the clutch master & bench bleed it 1st. Reinstall on firewall..reattach clutch line..then bleed the clutch slave. . I wouldn't remove it...just get a foot long brake line with a fitting on the end. Connect to the master outlet and bend the line up over and into the reservoir. Have someone pump the clutch to drive out all the bubbles. Reconnect and bleed the slave. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 I might have to borrow a spring from something else because I'm not seeming to find it. Is it absolutely neccasary? I think it puts a very slight pressure on cup so the rod won`t fall out.... If you were closer i could smash open an old seized one to give you one ,, you could try putting a light weight spring on the outside to pull the arm back ( kinda like a carb spring.. But really light weight. and you living closer would probably cause Jdong to have a nervous breakdown when you drove by his shop with your driveable 510.. :lol: Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 Not drivable yet but very close, got the clutch bled. There was a lot of air in the master Quote Link to comment
Uber Deaf One Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 By the looks of it I'm guessing this is the rod. I have the rubber boot. What else goes with it? Because I know that of I put the rod in there there is a lot Of room that thing is filthy for only having 100 miles on it? Quote Link to comment
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