Jump to content

athoose

Senior Member
  • Posts

    458
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About athoose

  • Birthday 08/19/1973

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    oilslinger@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Greensboro, NC
  • Cars
    73 620
  • Occupation
    Professor

Recent Profile Visitors

5,961 profile views

athoose's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare

Recent Badges

56

Reputation

  1. athoose

    High voltage

    Technology has improved since then. Zip ties and duct tape for the win!
  2. athoose

    High voltage

    That slide into place on the l16 bracket like it was factory. No need to remove the bracket. Current belt could free up more space from the idler arm but not needed. Will have to drill the alt holes for larger bracket bolt. Going to wait on not extract until motor is out. VID_20211019_122856615.mp4
  3. athoose

    High voltage

    That's a real tight area! Could go through the gap between the frame and body but the idler arm won't allow a straight shot... And it's a long way out for a drill and bit anyway. I actually broke it several years ago, figured I'd have had the engine out by now. That'd be so much easier! Lol Angle drill!
  4. athoose

    High voltage

    Procured parts for swap at pick and pull yesterday. 02 s series cs121 alt., 10si pulley, alt weatherpack wires. Saturn connector was not wired for the S terminal. Managed to cobble together a good weatherpack connecter with both S and L terminals pulling from a few other GM cars. Took me awhile to find one that even allowed a wire in the S slot. Snapped the head off the first bolt securing the alt bracket to the block. Started looking at the driver's side and it looks like i could mount the alt over there but it puts a corner of the alternator about an inch from the exhaust manifold. Would this create problems for the alternator, being that close to that intense heat?
  5. athoose

    Starting problem

    Yes, there's a connection on the back. Cleaned it but no help. Going to add a hot start relay. I've got these relays already. Can these work, notably the four prong ones? If so, is 1, connected to the solenoid wire. 2, to ground. 3, battery. 5. solenoid.
  6. athoose

    High voltage

    Great! One finally, question, is the space for the alternator the same for the L16 and L20?
  7. athoose

    High voltage

    Think I'll try the Saturn alt. Are 620 and 720 alternator pulleys the same? I need to swap a v pulley to the Saturn but don't have a have 720 pulley on hand (as the swap thread used).
  8. athoose

    Starting problem

    For a while now, I'll turn the key in the ignition to start and I'll here a clunk but it won't start. I just turn the key off and on a few times and it fires up. So, i checked the volts on the little wire going to the starter solenoid. It hits 12 sometimes right off the bat when i hit the switch, other times, it hits 6 or 8 momentarily and then jumps to 12. Weirdly, i usually still hear the clunk even when it creeps up to 12 but won't start, i have to turn it again. Any ideas?
  9. athoose

    High voltage

    Well if I've got to buy something, I'd rather snag a higher amp alternator and be able to see something at night. Thinking i could take my alternator off and compare it at the parts store. Find one the same size or smaller. There's a 50 and a 60 amp in the z, zx, 720, etc ... Just a few years later. For the moment, i can ride with the lights and fan on and regulate the voltage. 😂
  10. athoose

    High voltage

    So i checked the volts again. Once warm and at idle, no accessories on it's 15.5, goes up to 16 off idle. Headlights on, pretty much same thing. Adding either wipers or heater fan, 14.5, goes up to 16 off idle. All three, drops it to 13.5, goes up a little off idle. Interestingly, in this situation, the wipers actually go slower in the high speed position. 😂 So is this okay? If i do go with a ir alternator how high can i go on amps before i need to replace the wire with thicker gauge?
  11. athoose

    High voltage

    Thanks! I'll check it under load tomorrow, see what happens. That battery is due for replacement so i want to get this sorted. At these prices for voltage regulators, if it's fubar, i am thinking i might upgrade to a higher amp alternator that's internally regulated. It's almost the same cost. If i can find one that fits my l16.
  12. athoose

    High voltage

    I've not noticed anything wrong with the truck and the battery is 8 years old. That said, I just checked my battery volts when it was running and I am seeing 16.45v. Does this mean the voltage regulator is shot? Thanks!
  13. Working like a champ, though, if my gauge can be trusted it's staying at 170 once the thermostat opens, with just distilled water. Going add 50/50 in a minute.
  14. Made brackets for radiator and shroud. Looks like it's going to work nice. I got about an inch between the fan and radiator. Probably have to put shroud in then slide the radiator in. Looks like I can make the old hose work with a little trim. 😉
  15. Any consensus here on grounding or isolating the aluminum radiator to prevent electrolysis or galvanic corrosion? Sounds like if you just run 50/50 mix, it'll be fine either way.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.