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About athoose

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  • Birthday 08/19/1973

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    Greensboro, NC
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    73 620
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  1. Is this idle cut valve, part number 43928.060 correct for 32/36 dgv?
  2. Changed mobil 1 10w30 to delo 15w40, oil pressure went from 10 to 25!

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. athoose


      Yeah, I believe so. Why do you ask?

    3. datzenmike


      Synthetic tends to be thinner or lower viscosity. It also is slipperier and finds a way out past old seals and gaskets that work fine with regular oils. Newer engines are tighter tolerances and run near boiling point so synthetics are safe to use. I would never run it in a Datsun as it's far and away more protection than you will ever need unless maybe running a turbo. 


      T4 Rotella also comes in 10w30 and I tried it his summer. Ran the same as the 15w40 which may be a little thick for winter use.... depending on how cold it gets. I only drive in hot weather.

    4. athoose


      I've been running mobil 20-50 in my Harley and it's leaking pretty bad. I need to get something else for it too. I suspected it was the culprit. Thanks! 

  3. a 32/36 weber is fine for your application that what I got a L16 with a L20 head but have a cam. Its fine.

    I like the manual choke version.

    However on hot days it can desiel(run on as the later L20s and later L motor the carbs have a anti desieling selionoid on carb to plug the idle jet.  If your car /truck has this already you could het a 32/36 DGEV/IC carb as it has this selionoid with it and just use the 12volt wire from car.

    1. athoose


      Why do you prefer the manual choke? And I just noticed the manual choke 32/36 kit is 60. Dollars more than the electric choke, what the hell!? That's an expensive cable, right.

    2. banzai510(hainz)


      I like the manual cause if one fucks with the adjustment then it seems never to be perfect after that . Means it stays on too long or too short.

      If your car/truck has the 12volt wire I guess you can take it but if you later get a IR alternatort you have to remove the auto choke relay as it will kill the battery(if this was orginal a external volt reg )




      To me it should be cheaper  32/36 DGV 5A

  4. One more question, modifications to anything? I saw a post advocating cutting out the barrel dividers on the manifold. Is this worth doing, anything else?
  5. What stuff should I order with the carb -jet kit, micro filter, dvd, etc?
  6. My Hitachi is pretty done so I'm looking at getting a new carb. Currently, I've got an 1600, u67 head and u20 cam, but hope to swap in an L20 bottom end at some point. Will a 32/36 weber be a solid choice for the current motor and the future L20? Or is there something better to consider? I do like the idea of easy tuning and lower cost. Anti diesel and electric choke seem nice as well. If the weber is good, where do I get a "good one"? Though I'm not sure what makes one good at this point. Thanks!
  7. Turned out grounding the Bw bcdd wire to the dizzy is not good.
  8. Yeah, and I checked with voltmeter, just to make sure.
  9. Meant to do that eventually, looks like it'll happen tomorrow.
  10. Update, got the jy u67 head rebuilt and bolted everything back together today. Tried to fire it up but starter won't crank, no click, nothing. At first the charge light would come on, now it won't come on at all. Interior lights are working now that the charge light doesn't. I was checking out the wires near the inhibitor switch (it was originally an automatic) - just to make sure it was hooked up, and noticed a three pronged connector near it felt warm. Any thoughts on trouble shooting this?
  11. I currently have an a87 open chamber head on the L16. From what I'm reading that cc is very similar to the L20. So it looks like I all ready had a sorry cr. Am I understanding this correctly?
  12. I can easily get a u67 from a 74 l20 truck or a eighties 510 L20 head, would either of these work? The U67 cam looks rusty from sitting in a jy.
  13. Update, Continued to drive it clacking here and there until it lost all power backing out of driveway a couple days ago. You can see on #3 cylinder where the piston and valve seat made contact. So, I am just looking to get this back on the road as cheap as possible while being done correctly. What all should I have done at the machine shop? Thanks!
  14. Got out to the jy and found a u67 head and w58 head, grabbed a good rocker and lash pad but will have to go back for retainer with rope. Thought about grabbing the U67 head for back up but the cam and rockers are rusted, bad. Could I swap the w58 cam into the U67 head without issue ( I just read you aren't really supposed to pull cam towers)? Same cam specs? A 7/77 510 had a manual, is it a dogleg 5spd? Thanks
  15. Thanks I'll check. when I got the drums turned a couple months ago the guy said they had plenty of "Pink" left.
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