athoose

Got out to the jy and found a u67 head and w58 head, grabbed a good rocker and lash pad but will have to go back for retainer with rope. Thought about grabbing the U67 head for back up but the cam and rockers are rusted, bad. Could I swap the w58 cam into the U67 head without issue ( I just read you aren't really supposed to pull cam towers)? Same cam specs? A 7/77 510 had a manual, is it a dogleg 5spd? Thanks

Thanks I'll check. when I got the drums turned a couple months ago the guy said they had plenty of "Pink" left.

The shoes I got don't have a for and aft, they are exactly the same size lining. Guess that could be a problem, lol. Yeah, my drums get warm but it's kinda hard to drive it without braking. Guess I could put it on stands. Anyway, I get the emergency brake adjusted to where it can hold on a hill and a week later it won't. adjusters are clean but they are difficult to move by bare hand.

My drum brakes seem to slide back and forth depending on whether or not im going forwards or backwards, is this normal. It's bugging the crap out of me. It's like they don't grab perfectly until applied twice when I change direction(forward/reverse). Also, the recent rear set I got at AA, seem really thin, the brake material. It seems like I've got the adjuster almost maxed out to get them adjusted. Anyone else notice this? Have a shoe brand that's thick.

I recently put a 5 speed in my 73 620 and the motor is tilted a little towards the rear. should I raise the trans up at the mount to get the engine level? I have noticed a bit of a clunk when shifting in the first few gears. center bearing is good but I'm wondering about the u joints, they are original, I think, but look fine. 100k miles. Rear end has some slop, about a half inch. I plan to order ujoints for back up at least, any recommendations from rockauto or napa? Thanks!

put the intake at a tight .006 and it runs fine, took it for a 45 minute drive, no issue. We'll see how long it lasts! LOl The raised portion on the retainer that surrounds the lash cap is about half the size of stock, from being banged up. But I guess .002 on an inch is helping just enough to keep it in place for now. I would think the lash cap pushes on the valve tip but it looks close to hitting the keepers on the retainer. one of the retainers looks slightly higher than the other. The valve springs seems really weak too, maybe valve float is contributing.

I cycled the motor and didn't see anything. Hosed the valve with silicon spray fired it up and it's working right now but I think I'll replace rocker, lash cap, and retainer when I track one down with Mike's rope trick. Probably not drive it until then. I really don't want to pull the head if possible. I put an oil pressure gauge in : 8 @ 400, 15 @ 750, 23 @ 1000, 50 @2000, 60 above 2500. This is warmed up. It's 60 when I start it up but my cold start rpm is way too high, not sure how to fix this. I currently have the idle when warm set at 750, it runs better at that speed. I think I need to get a weber the hitachi is just ugh... Should I be looking at replacing the oil pump with a high volume unit. From what I've read on z forums 10psi at idle is typical. Currently, im running 10w-30 but thinking I'll swap to 15w40 rotella t4, just wondering if I should replace oil pump at the same time. Thanks all!

Well after a glorious clack free week, the clack came back with a vengeance. The lash cap came off the 3rd cyl intake. Chewed the retainer and banged around a little bit. This happened on this same valve like ten years ago when I first got the truck. This time putting the cap back doesn't work. It quickly comes off. I'm guessing the valve is sticking or it's bent, or the guide/valve stem is loose. So, I'm thinking I've got to take the head off and see what's going on with that valve. Ugh ... the cam looks fine but the rocker arm has a light score in it, I'm thinking I should replace the arm but are they matched to the cam at this point?

If you can't find 510 specific, the cylinders inside can be swapped. I had a set of new 200sx, and the cylinders swapped into the 620. It's a bit of work but it works.

Should have told me that sooner. I keep a gallon of pbblaster and a brush at arms reach when wrenching. I actually used some on the valves a few days prior to seafoam, maybe it was the nectar of the gods that cured that clack, after all.

Apparently, it was used as a car rust inhibitor way back. Boiled linseed oil develops a skin when it dries that locks out moisture. I work with it, so I can vouch for that. Just not sure how it holds up on cars. Was hoping someone would chime in that had experience.

Is it snake oil if it works. I understand the hype and if some other product does the same thing for less that doesn't negate its effectiveness. Knew what I needed and seafoam delivered. Yes, I was seeking to stop a clacking in the engine. Could I have disassembled to engine and cleaned, checked, etc... Yes, but it seems likely something was sticking and this product freed it up. I'm think it's fair to say something caused it to stick. BTW, I'm in no way affiliated with seafoam.

Yeah I'm curious too, something sticking is my guess, glad I opted to give seafoam a chance. I watched a YouTube video with similar results prior to trying it. Much prefer a couple bucks and ten minutes of my time to the alternatives.

Put 4 oz of seafoam in oil and sprayed the aerosol seafoam down the carb. Didn't work right away but by next morning it's silky smooth. Wow, that stuff works!

Tested with non working fuel pump, still clacked until it ran out of gas. Better video Could this be exhaust leak? Sounds metallic to me, though. Mouse things on cam look fine. And adjusting screw on carb didn't seem to do anything.

I've converted my truck from auto to manual, currently the inhibitor switch wires are connected so it'll run, bypassed the inhibitor switch. Can I use these wires to connect to the neutral safety switch on the manual trans? I.e., Does the neutral safety switch create a closed loop in neutral? Just realized, I can put a voltmeter on it.

I'm considering boiled linseed oil, maybe mixed with turpentine, for my truck bed that has surface rust underneath. If it's just a small amount of rust in an accessable location I'd paint it properly.

Chain guide look good But found this This seems like it could cause clacking. Whatcha think? Also, it seems my cam is on position 3 but dash is to the left of v groove. Does this mean the cam is advanced retarded lol. What should my timing be around? I'll check into that thing on the carb, if this doesn't do it. Thanks

Can anyone say what this weird clacking sound is. It comes and goes. I adjusted valves and that didn't help.

Bought the 73 advance Auto(carquest) clutch kit because it shows a collar included, it wasn't. The OH600 came out of a 78 l20 motor home with 225 clutch. Looking over rock auto, 610, 710, 80 200sx all have the same clutch kit and a 78 truck throwout bearing and collar is interchangeable with them as well. I bought luks clutch kit for the 610, same one as 710, 80, 200sx. Came with collar, but I bought the 78 throw out bearing and collar to see if the same, they are and they match the OH600 collar. From what I can tell, the only thing you have to worry about is the pressure plate height, 35mm vs 45mm and the matching collar, long or short, respectively. Side note, most of these collars are being used today in at, ka, rb, etc.. only varying length for different pressure plates.

I'm going to use gps speedometer, phone. I've got an l16 engine i want to use the 5 speed behind it. OH600 was used with the 200mm and 240mm, flywheel, N1600 also used with both 200 and 225mm, at least that's what i take away from that measurement guide of collars with part numbers. I just need to find the right kit that uses one of these collars. I'm basing my part numbers on the measurements of the collars. Can a 200mm pressure plate for a 6 bolt flywheel work on a 5 bolt 200mm flywheel? If so, i should be able to match it to a clutch kit for a specific car and use it.

I've got two throwout bearing collars, 30501-0H600 and 30501-N1600, one of which, I'm trying to use with an L16(5bolt, 200mm flywheel). Can anyone recommend a 200mm clutch kit that uses one of these collars? Or a 73 620 200mm clutch kit with the collar included? Going in a 73 620 with an 80 4x4 5speed. Thanks!

Rob Greensboro, NC 73 620 Auto I've had it eight years and it runs like a champ and shifts hard. Here is a photo of my truck, framed, and left under my windshield by some anonymous person.