athoose
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Everything posted by athoose
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When something like this happens to me, I switch the plug with another and see what happens after driving awhile.
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Yes, it did! For now I just watched the quick explanations on idles but I'll be watching it in its entirety. Gotta get some fresh plugs, adjust valves then go over the carb adjustments again. But yeah, it's running fantastic right now. Thanks! I might pop for that adapter too, I've got an l16. That redline kit adapter is a pita and I don't have faith in it not leaking, down the road.
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Choke cable was binding, too many curves, cut length. Watched the carb tuning on idles last night. Adjusted fast idle, was almost out of room to adjust which seemed weird, adjusted idle. Started up but running rough, sprayed carb cleaner at carb and base was leaking all over. Reinstalled carb, just didn't have it bolted down tight enough, also put bigger washers and lock nuts on. Checked out throttle plate and fast idle while off, something was binding prior, reset fast idle. Fired right up, runs better than it ever has. Thanks all!
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Came with instructions for adapter and throttle linkage, nothing else. You got a copy or link for these instructions? As to the filter, it looks like the mold came apart on one end during manufacturing. Where the screen should be imbedded in rubber, the rubber is just laying on top, adding an extra 1/8 inch or more. I've bent the screens on one side radically to shorten it. Not to thrilled with this redline filter and I think I got charged a premium price for it. 🙄
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I got it fired up, running like crap. Once choke came off it won't run, idles high then steps down and dies. I'm trying to apply the choke but it seems stuck. Is this something on weber's, once it's warm, you can't close the choke?
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What do I do with the bcdd connection and these three hoses? Left went to bcdd two on the right air filter.
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That's just a piece that came with weber, was going to use it for return spring but I'll need to make one. Carb came with a redline filter, that looks like a KN, does this need to be oiled before running?
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What a miserable install. 7/16 crow foot seeing action
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Looks like the throttle cable end needs to be cut off. I hate to do this. Is this so? Any other options?
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Well I'll run what I've got Today. Thinking I'll put washers and lock nuts on it and go gentle on torquing. I'll get the better adapter down the road.
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This is the hardware for attaching the carb. It seems kinda wacky and I'd like to do it right. Two threaded rods that go on the passenger side and two studs that go on the driver's side. The two studs have smaller threads and nuts. There seems to be plenty of room in that area for larger nuts. Should I purchase four new studs to replace the threaded rod and the two supplied studs? Only two wave lock washers, included, that go on the rear of the carb? This is what the instructions kind of show. Should I add lock nuts or wave locks to the two front nuts? Tha
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Good to know. Hopefully, I can get my 28.00 back. Thanks salesman! Thanks again for the L videos Hainz, made it so easy to replace my cylinder head recently.
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Well I ordered it, as it was recommended by the salesman as the one I need. It won't fit in the current idle jet holder thread. Going back into posts here, it appears the DGV manual choke 5A doesn't accept an idle cut solinoid. Is that correct?
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Is this idle cut valve, part number 43928.060 correct for 32/36 dgv?
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Changed mobil 1 10w30 to delo 15w40, oil pressure went from 10 to 25!
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Synthetic tends to be thinner or lower viscosity. It also is slipperier and finds a way out past old seals and gaskets that work fine with regular oils. Newer engines are tighter tolerances and run near boiling point so synthetics are safe to use. I would never run it in a Datsun as it's far and away more protection than you will ever need unless maybe running a turbo.
T4 Rotella also comes in 10w30 and I tried it his summer. Ran the same as the 15w40 which may be a little thick for winter use.... depending on how cold it gets. I only drive in hot weather.
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I've been running mobil 20-50 in my Harley and it's leaking pretty bad. I need to get something else for it too. I suspected it was the culprit. Thanks!
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I run a quart of Hy-per lube in Everything I own. When I had my L20 built, the guy told me to use it. I figured why not. I punched a hole in my oil pan while autocrossing with a local group and finished out the day. Got home and we pulled the motor. You couldn't even tell it ran dry.
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One more question, modifications to anything? I saw a post advocating cutting out the barrel dividers on the manifold. Is this worth doing, anything else?
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What stuff should I order with the carb -jet kit, micro filter, dvd, etc?
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My Hitachi is pretty done so I'm looking at getting a new carb. Currently, I've got an 1600, u67 head and u20 cam, but hope to swap in an L20 bottom end at some point. Will a 32/36 weber be a solid choice for the current motor and the future L20? Or is there something better to consider? I do like the idea of easy tuning and lower cost. Anti diesel and electric choke seem nice as well. If the weber is good, where do I get a "good one"? Though I'm not sure what makes one good at this point. Thanks!
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Turned out grounding the Bw bcdd wire to the dizzy is not good.
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Yeah, and I checked with voltmeter, just to make sure.
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Meant to do that eventually, looks like it'll happen tomorrow.
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Update, got the jy u67 head rebuilt and bolted everything back together today. Tried to fire it up but starter won't crank, no click, nothing. At first the charge light would come on, now it won't come on at all. Interior lights are working now that the charge light doesn't. I was checking out the wires near the inhibitor switch (it was originally an automatic) - just to make sure it was hooked up, and noticed a three pronged connector near it felt warm. Any thoughts on trouble shooting this?
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I currently have an a87 open chamber head on the L16. From what I'm reading that cc is very similar to the L20. So it looks like I all ready had a sorry cr. Am I understanding this correctly?
