Alchemist Posted April 6, 2014 Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 My apologies Cap! Did not mean to "commandeer or go off topic" on your thread. Ernie Quote Link to comment
rjorgensen Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Alchemist, Thanks. It turns out I don't have much choice. I talked to Addco and they said that the 810 front bar is 1" less eye-to-eye than the Maxima bar, so it won't fit. So my choices are stock, 1 1/8", or $$$ custom for the front bar. I will try the rear bar first. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 It turns out I don't have much choice. I talked to Addco and they said that the 810 front bar is 1" less eye-to-eye than the Maxima bar, so it won't fit. Redrill the holes in the control arms. B) 1 Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 I have a new toy on mymaxima, I dont know if anyone else has one of these functioning anymore, but I took the hit and bought the only antenna mast I could find. it cost me $70 shipped from eBay and it was worth every penny. Because now I have a functioning half mast antenna. the switch on the console works and the timer controls it and it does this: Half Full, like 9 feet high, lol. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 And before I get asked by someone "couldnt you just use the antenna from a _____" NO, NO you cannot. These antennas are designed specifically for these cars, I am not sure it will even fit a 280zx. there has to be a special tip on the end of the wire and a specially shaped gromet on the wire, I tried 2 other antennas and none were long enough, or the right shape cable. Quote Link to comment
Alchemist Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Awesome Cap! Glad my factory antenna is still in working order. Ernie 1 Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Take it apart and lube it or it won't be for long. Quote Link to comment
Alchemist Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 I've done that - thanks! Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted April 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 Awesome Cap! Glad my factory antenna is still in working order. Ernie Are you telling me that you also have a working half mast antenna Ernie? That is awesome, I was thninking I could be one of the very few that probably do now. The procedure is that it needs to hif half on the way up or down right? As in you should not keep it in full up and just turnon the radio, it should go to half, then you should switch it to full. correct? Take it apart and lube it or it won't be for long. I did that when I loaded the new mast but I dont think I put quite enough grease in so I am gonna do it again. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted April 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 So my Maxima is down, it will not start. I was having an issue with the TPS so it was running like crap, I fixed that, then started it, it sounded like it was running good, I reved it up once it got some oil pressure and it revved fine, then it shut off, now it wont start. I am a bit lost here I have checked a lot of the EFI section and come up with nothing and it has plenty of spark. It does not seem like its getting fuel...... Anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 Spray a good puff of starting fluid into the air inlet, then immediately try to start it. It should start, run 1/2 second and die. If it doesn't start, its not for lack of fuel. Quote Link to comment
Alchemist Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Are you telling me that you also have a working half mast antenna Ernie? That is awesome, I was thninking I could be one of the very few that probably do now. The procedure is that it needs to hif half on the way up or down right? As in you should not keep it in full up and just turnon the radio, it should go to half, then you should switch it to full. correct? When I turn on the factory radio the antenna automatically goes up halfway. When I turn the radio off, it goes all the way down. I don't have manual control of the antenna. Ernie Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted April 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Spray a good puff of starting fluid into the air inlet, then immediately try to start it. It should start, run 1/2 second and die. If it doesn't start, its not for lack of fuel. Did this, fuel is definitely the problem. So why would it not be injecting? Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Early injectors don't last forever. Are yours original? I replaced all mine after it was running on 5 due to the 6th one crapping out. Also, it could be your AFM. I ended up adjusting mine back to only 4 teeth counter-clockwise (richer) but you could have the hot-start issue ever present. Or maybe an air temp sensor out of adjustment. (on the afm) Check pressure at the rail, make sure it's around 38psi or so with the fuel pressure regulator disconnected. Check the fuel filter too. Sometimes it's that simple. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Check the fuel filter too. Sometimes it's that simple. This. B) Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted April 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 I dont have a fuel pressure tester, but I got pressure after the pump at the feed line, like substantially more than I could contain with my thumb, I know thats not scientific but thats what I got right now for an answer to that one. I will go get a tester if I have to, I think I can rent one from Autozone maybe. This is still wierd... Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 10 psi will be more than you can hold with your thumb. Get a gauge. Part number 700-2336 at NAPA. ;) It's 40-60 bucks. Can't remember exactly. An essential tool for working on fuel injected rigs. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted April 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 I am gonna say it isnt the fuel pump or the regulator. I rented the fuel pressure tester today and got 38 psi, just like the manual says, and it holds it in the fuel rail through cranking and when I come back a half hour later. So why are my injectors not firing? WTF? Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 *Check your fusible links ANY sign of melting or arcing = bad and something causing the issue. You can replace with generic link from most places for not much coin. (seen it). *Make absolute sure you system is charging .... and not intermidiately charging .... kinda like charging when it wants to ? lol. That right there will screw up the whole.......... EFI system , and very little will run half-way correctly if at all. *Check your distributor carefully ... silly things like the center carbon brush pin on the cap missing (had it happen to me) .....aftermarket modules are the ones that die first over the Nissan OEM ones ... too much play in the shafts can and will cause a problem here or there (check play with the distributor out of the car). Since your injectors rely upon the ignition system to tell when to fire that is (if it's partially like the zx systems-ish). I don't know , but assume you have an E$$-92 something module ? (4-wires total). The e12-80 modules are what I'm use to working with mostly except for a converted E12-92 module that works much the same afterwords. *Check the ignition module connections ... they get corroded coming from the distributor especially. (always somewhat corroded to a degree that i've seen). *Check for pulse pickup at the distributor with a multi-meter.... while an assitant is cranking it over .... pickups do go bad here or there. (seen it go bad on zx's) Swapping for a known good distributor is a bit faster in "unknowns" case-basis in my eyes. (yes I see that you have spark). *Check for harness shorts ... yup they do happen and will kill operations .... I've had my VCM controller cut and kill operations over a corroded connector that was un-repairable + then needed bypass = win ... also if you have original bosch ev-1 connectors in there or off the coolant temp/head temp sensors then that alone could give you grief. (seen it on zx's a couple of times) The sensor in the head on the passengers side (that is if you have it). *Like HRH said the AFM's air charge sensors can go bad , but doesn't mean necessarily the whole thing. Irregardless needs to be tested. Make the flap doesn't feel like it's dragging even ever so slighty... check the resistance with a multi-meter with the xenon.com manuals specs for testing link at the bottom of this reply. That goes for most other replys. Later zx I would think , but I'm not sure if the rest of the parts cross correspond DIRECTLY or exactly so leave that to your due diligence boss. *Check your fuel pump relay. (they go bad on zx's) *Check your EFI relay. (they go bad on zx's) *Check and test the ignition switch ... if it's not providing a stable circuit ... bam !. (they go bad on all z's). *If you had a possible leaky windshield in the past ... and it's high humidity in the area ... then check the ECM connector very carefully. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ^^^ I'm saying all of this off my understanding of 280zx L28e systems , which I would think isn't "that" far off from L24e maxima systems. Make sure to test the harness signals where applicable if any as well everytime. Go rent a set of noid lights (not sure if they do that anymore) , and stick them in each injector socket if you truly want a piece of mind that they're not receiving a signal. I just use a mult-meter if the connection is clean enough to do so. I'm not sure your year of Maxima L24e's utilize a drop resistor for the injectors , but early zx's are around 3.5volts off the top of my head at the injector connector (Bosch ev-1). You will see green corrosion through a few wires here or there in cars that have lived in my area if they are cut open back to the ECM connector. It's somewhat harder to avoid really in my eyes now I have a better understanding. Irregardless will run just fine one way or the other. ECM should be the very... very last to blame. I would test it or check it after ruling out all of the consumables or at least the things that might screw you down the road on a 8-hour vacation trip to unknownsville. That's just me though , so do what's best for you. EDIT: I just looked up rockauto , and the air flow meters are the same for 81-83 zx .... as well as 81-84 maxima. Therefore you might be able to just scabbed by on some of the testing process ... procedure , and idea by going to the link below and downloading pdf's. http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 all of this has been checked thus far except the noid light thing and I am coming up empty, I also tested the whole EFI system through the ECU connector twice and came up empty handed. I am going to borrow Softee's today and see what happens and then I can totally rule out the ECU which I agree would be VERY surprising. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Borrowed an ECU from an 84 maxima, not the ECU either. I have no ideas at this point. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Okay, getting a new battery, I put my odyssey pc680, which powers my 2.4l civic fine in and it starts the engine, it runs like crap but thats better than the old battery in it, which wont start it, but will turn it over fine, I have had 12 volts this whole time and every time I start it it goes over 12v once it starts, But, could my alternator be going out in addition to my battery being bad? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 The Alternator must output over 13.5 volts or its bad. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 But it needs a decent battery to diagnose that, so step 1, Battery, step 2, make sure alternator is charging properly. Quote Link to comment
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