captaingamez Posted March 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Did they cut well? I am facing the same conundrum. I got the 300ZX bushings because I was assured they fit the 280ZX crossmember. They do not. ^_^ I got the Prothane ones and they cut pretty well, even on the crappy little harbor freight lathe, actually grabbing from the inside with that tiny chuck made it easier probably. If they are pretty hard then they will cut well. The durometer on the Prothane ones is 82A I believe. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 The durometer on the Prothane ones is 82A I believe. Wish I knew what brand these were... But I'd peg durometer in the high 70s to low 80s, so I'll give it a bash. Maybe on a day when it's REALLY cold in the shop... :rofl: Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Wish I knew what brand these were... But I'd peg durometer in the high 70s to low 80s, so I'll give it a bash. Maybe on a day when it's REALLY cold in the shop... :rofl: Or you could freeze them lol. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Or you could freeze them lol. Actually, yeah. I could chuck them in the shop fridge for awhile before cutting. :rofl: Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted March 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 So my clutch master and slave cylinders both failed. I installed new ones, drove it a block and now one of them has failed again already........ Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Rockauto by chance? Quote Link to comment
RedSquare Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Amazing work in the thread. 1 Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 No, Autozone, then I was having a leaking at the crush washer problem so I had to convert it to Banjo bolts. I should be back on the road today. 1 Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Sweet work! I need to get a mini-lathe. Dad's is nice, but a full size and an hour away. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 No, Autozone Just asking because I bought a new one from Rockauto and it leaked after a day... :crying: Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted March 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 Two in a row leaking on the slave cylinder side of the crush washer. WTF. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Not to insult your intelligence, but did you tighten the bolt enough? I've found you have to tighten the banjo bolts more than you want to, as in it feels like it's going to strip. That usually crushes the copper quite nicely. 1 Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Not to insult your intelligence, but did you tighten the bolt enough? I've found you have to tighten the banjo bolts more than you want to, as in it feels like it's going to strip. That usually crushes the copper quite nicely. I feel that you may be right. Normally with most crush based systems the idea is that you dont want to put a lot of torque on the bolt, just enough for it to seat and seal. But in this case it seems that the surface may be compromised and needing me to apply more than normal torque. I believe I did get it to seal (maybe.....) but now I am having issued bleeding, looks like I am gonna have to get a vacuum bleeder. Quote Link to comment
rjorgensen Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 Any updates on your 910? Haven't seen anything in a while. And is yours or any of the 910s on this forum coming to JCCS 2015? Registration is still open as of tonight, but I don't expect it to remain so for much longer... 1 Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted July 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Hi Ray. I havent updated in a while because I havent done very much. I am having the transmission rebuilt soon, and then there will be much to report on because hwen it goes in, the suspension goes on and the diff and a custom driveshaft and the bushings ect, ect. So stay tuned. But I just daily the car and it gives me very few problems. I believe she needs a valve adjustment, but I havent had time recently. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted July 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 Theres a few things I forgot to update to this thread. I cleaned and repainted the diff and sealed it with a new gasket, hardware, and seals. I showed that I built a billet mount for the differential. It uses a common poly bushing. I do not know for sure yet that this works. We will find out when the rear end is bolted up. Then if it does work I can make one for other 910 users. I also had to get a rebuilt rear left axle for the drivetrain swap. I also got the transmission rebuild done. Its got all new high quality bearings and synchros. Only thing left for the drivetrain is to make a one piece driveshaft and bolt everything in. It will be about an inch lower after this is all completed. I think I am gonna get a chrome Hurst short shifter with a white Hurst ball. It takes a standard Mustang T5 shifter. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datnuts2013 Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Hey there! I am a newbie on this site - has the engine gone in this car yet? I have particular experience with this model car and parts interchange information if any is still needed. datnuts2013 1 Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Sorry datsnuts, I didnt see your post until now. The turbo engine still has not gone in. I am planning it for next year. All ears to hear any ideas you have about putting it in. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 Well its been a fun two weeks. I installed a large quantity of new parts. First was the suspension. We did the standard AGX dampers from an MR2 in cut, welded, and gusseted shock tubes with Eibach springs and Project Mu camber plates. For the rear I simply used the OEM top hats and a pair of Tanabe coilovers from a 240sx. One strut is in only so so condition so the pair will be replaced soon with another custom setup. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 Next was to install the T5, R200, Axles, and have a one piece driveshaft built. The T5 fits in a 4 speed auto car without a hitch, but I feel it would be quite a challenge to get in there if the car was originally a manual transmission from factory. As I have said many times before, the tunnel for 4 speed automatic cars is much larger than the tunnel for manual, and 3 speed automatic cars. Also the shifter hole for the manual cars is much much smaller, and will also cause a problem. The one minor issue I ran into was that the shifter hole needed to be cut about 1/2" on the rear side to make it easier to get the shifter plate into the car. It can be done from under with a wrench, but you really dont want to if your going through all this work. Only other difference is that the transmission mount holes on the T5 are farther back. Same spacing, just 30mm towards the rear I could not get pictures of the new driveline in the car. I will, but I am going to have to get the car on the lift to take them. I had to do all this on the ground for lack of a lift. I totally forgot to take a picture of the new driveshaft. She was a beauty though. I was told it would hold over 550 FT-LB with these yokes, but thats a substantial amount more than this car will ever make.Also i would like to replace the ugly, tiny stock exhaust first before I show off. Ha ha ha. The driveshaft must fit 1005mm and a 26 spline with 1.377 output shaft seal I.D. , and the rear yoke must fit a Nissan 1.962 center hole. Next was the rear end. I had alot of reservations about the 280zx Turbo diff fitting. Luckily with good measuring and the Turbo axles, it fits with no issues at all. You have two options for the mount, and thats the onnly modification you need to do. 1: cut the original mount where it offsets, flip it, and weld it back together. or 2: you make a billet one piece mount like I did. I can provide you with specs if you need them. I was not financially able right now to get the LSD installed, but I will buy another diff and do it in the future, probably around the time of the turbo install. Here is a picture of the difference in size, R180 VS R200. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 And here is how she sits now. 2 Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Those top hats are sexy. How's the ride with the 350lb springs? I'm running 250 with the same inserts in an l20b powered car. How much did you section your strut housings? Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 The ride is phenominal. The front is perfect with these springs and shocks. The rear is a bit hard with the Tanabes but not too bad. I cant remember off hand how much I sectioned out of them but it was somewhere around 40mm. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Got back under the car to check a couple things. Everything is good to go so far. About 100 miles on it now. Took a few shots while I was down there. Next is the exhaust. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted October 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 A note on this drivetrain setup if you need a driveshaft. If you plan on changing diff/trans components in the future, but you need a driveshaft made now........Get the shaft made for the stock manual trans and diff. The output shaft and input flange sit in the exact same place on FS5/T5 and R180/R200, so if you have a good driveshaft builder, he can build you a shaft, and then if you change a component he can just change the input/output on THAT yoke. If I wanted to go back to stock components I could still use this driveshaft, But I would need to take it back to the shop that built it and have them change whichever (or both) sides to match for like $50. Quote Link to comment
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