DatDoug Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 What is your reccomended gasket sealant for: Oil Pan? Fuel Pump? Dist. ? Water Pump? Oil Pump? Carb Plates? Should you use different for each app.? Gas, Water, Oil ? Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 If you need a sealant of any kind then the gasket is not doing its job. When not using a gasket, I prefer to use Permatex Ultra Grey. Jason Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 i generally dont use gasket sealer. sometimes i'll use a small amount to hold a gasket in place. the permatex ultra black is very popular. when done right you dont need sealer. if the holes on your pan are flaired then fix them bye pounding them flat. some people dont use gaskets and just use the sealer as a gasket. i cant stand that. it drives me crazy.:mad: one other thing, some gaskets are made so cheap these days their super thin. so i like to buy a roll of gasket material (mr. gasket ect) to cut out my own gaskets. Quote Link to comment
Gensaiken Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 I use ultra black. It works great provided you don't smush the gasket by over tightening it. :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 Yes, no sealant is best. If I need to hold the gasket in place, a thin bit if Perm-a-gasket is my favorite. Remember that some race engines and even OEM engines are assembled with RTV sealant -- no regular gaskets. But I find it too messy, too tricky to put the right amount down and wait the right amount of time. Quote Link to comment
kiznook Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 the only one of those things I use any kind of goo on is the oilpan, just to hold the gasket in place and a little extra insurance that it won't leak Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 It should be mentioned though, that when installing gaskets properly without a sealer on them that you do need to apply a very small drop of sealant in corners. Like the sharp corners of a L series timing cover. Jason Quote Link to comment
kiznook Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 oh yeah...Timing cover is a good one. Good call yello! Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted July 6, 2008 Report Share Posted July 6, 2008 I really try to avoid silicone with gaskets. I see intake gaskets with orange crap all the time. Mostly on naps shit. I like the permatex for the oil pan and whatever else. The key is a flat and clean surface and torqued properly. Some things leak eventually though. No matter what. Like the fuel pump on the L motors. Keep em tight from the start and they probably wont. I also like the indian head shellac sealer cause its cheap and goes a very long way. It is super nasty sticky so it holds stuff in place while working around it. Preferably though would be nothing unless necessary so I dont have to scrape it off later down the road. I have realized than no matter how done something is, I cannot stop messing with it. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 6, 2008 Report Share Posted July 6, 2008 http://permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm You shouldn't need sealer in most areas on a given drivetrain, but for the places you do... Tighten til it sqeezes out a touch. Allow it to dry and then snug down to specified torque specs ;) Quote Link to comment
flyerdan Posted July 6, 2008 Report Share Posted July 6, 2008 Some times when you don't have enough hands to hold things in place and fit up, High Tack can be a real frustration saver. Quote Link to comment
fiveNdime Posted July 6, 2008 Report Share Posted July 6, 2008 I wont say I don't use silicone sealers like most because you need it allot of the time since the gaskets now days blow ass. For the most part you don't need much. I use just enough to hold the gasket in place most of the time. Keep in mind you will have to clean this shit off when you pull the part off someday, and that sucks almost as much as a leak. Make sure you clean both surfaces REAL good before application. I had my motor seize up on me because a small chunk of that silicone had worked its way up and plugged up that little hole that feeds oil to the top end. This was the previous owners doing. A few on here know the story, but at least I made it home from the 6 hour drive to pick it up:D Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 i like a little blue for the timing cover and water pump. ...otherwise dry Quote Link to comment
merlin Posted December 7, 2011 Report Share Posted December 7, 2011 Installing the weber kit on my 521... Says to use grease or a suitable gasket sealer, then says do not use rtv or silicone...Grease? Really? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 7, 2011 Report Share Posted December 7, 2011 Permatex orange silicone sealer is good for everything. Just don't use too much. And don't use it with a gasket, use it instead of a gasket. Better yet, use a gasket with no sealer. The key is preparation. Get the gasket surface flat and clean, scrape off all traces of the old gasket and chase off the oil with ether (starting fluid). The second key is to use a torque wrench. Valve cover and oil pan takes low torque settings, otherwise it will leak. I prefer to use Permatex Ultra Grey Poupon on my Rolls. Quote Link to comment
merlin Posted December 7, 2011 Report Share Posted December 7, 2011 I get not using a gasoline soluble gasket seal on carbs but i just thought grease seemed a little odd . Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 The idea is that you don't want to use silicone on the carburetor gaskets seals at risk of plugging one of the little holes in the gasket. You can use a suitable sealant like copperseal or grease -- in a vert thin layer -- both of which will (probably) allow the gasket to come off in one piece later. This is for the carburetor only. But really you don't need any sealant when you use gaskets. The Datsun factory manuals only specify sealant on some oil pan seal joints and on the rear main cap. If it's in the manual be sure to do it, but otherwise don't use sealer when you use a gasket. A lot of guys don't prep the parts correctly, like putting on an oil pan with a not-flat flange, then it leaks, so they put silicone sealer on the gasket and sometimes that fixes it. But it is not the recommended way. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 What is your reccomended gasket sealant for: Oil Pan?.... cork or whatever comes in the gasket set. Never use sealer here, not needed and makes pan impossible to get off later. Clean properly and do it right the first time and you won't have any troubles with leaks. Nissan doesn't use sealers. Fuel Pump? Non cork gasket material. Heavier gasket material on either side of the phenolic spacer. Never use sealer here, not needed and makes pump impossible to get off later. Clean properly and do it right the first time and you won't have any troubles with leaks. Nissan doesn't use sealers. Dist. ? See fuel pump above Water Pump? I've used a cereal box and cut them out when I didn't have time to get one in town. Sealer? See fuel pump above Oil Pump? Here, a thin paper gasket is needed. Sealer? Never on an oil pump. A paper gasket will hold hundreds of PSI. The oil pump is only 60. Carb Plates? Thicker gasket material like for the fuel pump. Sealer? Never use here, see oil pan above. Should you use different for each app.? Gas, Water, Oil ? Oil and water resistant material is fine. Transmissions and many differentials no longer have the original gaskets available for them and use sealers.... NOT that silicon R fucking TV !!!!!!!!! That shit is for slathering on Chevy engines like a peanut butter and jam sandwich. Stay the fuck away from that crap. Get a real sealer like Permatex gasket maker/sealer! Damn!!!. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Oil pan gaskets are one thing I seal up with RTV only. I actually use the Right Stuff. While this will NEVER leak, it does become a real pain in the ass to get off. Quite literally you need to cut it off like you're cutting out a windshield, or use a 5 n 1 and a hammer. I found that out after pulling off the KA pan on the stand. No leaks though! You could certainly use regular grey or black and have very good results as well. On carb and manifold gaskets, if on an L, no gasket sealer is needed. You can use a little aviation hi-tack on the carb base gaskets, but generally dry is good. As for the timing cover gaskets on an L, I smear just a smidge of blue on the gasket on both sides, only to take up any imperfections in the aluminum and block face. Also some at the corner of the head and timing cover area. Distributor is just an O ring. Ditto for no sealer on the oil pump. Especially not silicone, that will jam the pump. Bad things happen then. Water pump, same as timing cover gasket. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I sometimes use a real sealer like Permatex silicone sealer. I used the Permatex Orange on my water pump when I didn't have a cereal box handy. As long as you prep correctly and put it on thinly it works well. Don't put it on peanut-butter style. Easy to clean up later too. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Don't put it on peanut-butter style. That would make you a Chevy owner. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Why doesn`t peanut butter ever go bad?? I mean seriously.. WTF Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Don't do this: Was nicely hydrolocked when I found it. Because someone thought orange RTV would seal a torn, USED intake manifold gasket. Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 they would have been better off with just rtv... Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 When I adjusted my valves for the first time recently on my 72 521 I noticed the oil hole on one of my cam lobes was plugged. I dug at it with a safety pin and pulled a 3/8 inch long clog of orange rubber sealant. Another lobe was plugged too. I may have just saved the head. Quote Link to comment
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