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My Jeep is on crack...


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19 hours ago, Soundline said:

When are we going Jeeping Red?

 

Hopefully going out before the end of the year, but we all know how plans go. Not sure when I will get it to that side of the Cascades. 

 

 

8 hours ago, EDM620 said:

If you plan on doing water crossings, one tip that helps the electrics - wrap each connection with plastic wrap then smother with silicone. The plastic wrap allows for future servicing as it keeps the silicone out of the connection - simply slice the blob and unwrap to access your connection.


Nice. Let's see if I remember this when I get to wiring. 
 

 

6 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Does it run yet?

 

I'd be interested in hearing how that paint holds up over time.


It does run, but is not currently running. 
Last thing to do before tires, is finishing up the wiring. I still keep finding other stuff to fix though. 
 

Me too.
The rattle can rustoleum from the last round of frame repair actually held up not bad. 

 

 

6 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I was on the Rubicon a few years ago, crossing the Rubicon river just down stream from the Rubicon Springs and the water was so deep that it was flowing over my feet. Right in the middle of the hole, the Rover started cutting out. So what did I do? I leaned into the throttle. Nothing worse than getting stalled right in the middle of a flowing river.

 

Got to camp and found that the tip of the coil was cracked off, and water was getting into the coil wire. Nobody in camp had a spare coil, so I got to fixin.

 

Solution? Jam a bunch of black RTV into the coil wire boot, stuff it into place, then safety wire the boot onto the coil. It's been like that ever since...

 

 

This is me fixing all that sort of thing, mostly lol. 

Sometimes the trail fix works too well to mess with.

Rubicon is on the someday list. 

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14 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said:

Sometimes the trail fix works too well to mess with.

This.

 

One of the early trips to Williams (AZ) the nut for the throttle shaft backed off and went bye bye. Go to Ace Hardware in Holbrook, find a lawnmower handle knob, put it on and there we go. Left it on there for the next 5 or 6 years.

I2c9qz9.jpg

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Took a closer look at your spring packs - 10 leaves like my 75 had. She was full 1/2 ton rated. Great for weight capacity but not so good for axle articulation. I had custom leaf packs made by a local spring shop and what a difference off-road, the increased axle movement helped keep the rubber on the ground. On-street ride was nicer too.

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On 11/10/2023 at 6:08 PM, ]2eDeYe said:

Sometimes the trail fix works too well to mess with. 

 

I was on a road trip with a 510 once and noticed it kept cutting out, like the coil was not working correctly. Popped the hood and noticed the coil was loose in the bracket. If you slid it out, it would stumble, and if you held it in tightly, it ran fine.

 

Had an old t-shirt in the trunk and ripped off a piece of it to wrap around the coil to hold it in the bracket tight. Worked like a charm.

 

Then 3 years later when I was getting it ready to sell, I realized the t-shirt fix was still on it...  😄

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On 11/19/2023 at 6:18 PM, EDM620 said:

Not a good idea to remove leaves (cheap tho) as the pressure point shift can result in a broken leaf. Some might have a different opinion on that...

In theory you are correct, but in practice, unless you're spring is going from one arc to the other repeatedly, broken springs are not likely. I have seen springs break at the ends and near the spring perch, but not usually in the middle of the span. I said "usually".

 

To lower the ride height in my '57 Rover, I removed leaves and played around with the height, but could never get it where I wanted it, so I ended up putting one leaf in upside down. Yes, it was a bear to clamp together, but it works like a charm.

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On 11/19/2023 at 6:18 PM, EDM620 said:

Not a good idea to remove leaves (cheap tho) as the pressure point shift can result in a broken leaf. Some might have a different opinion on that...


Probably something I won't ever get to. 35"s at 12 psi do a lot for the ride lol. 
 

9 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

In theory you are correct, but in practice, unless you're spring is going from one arc to the other repeatedly, broken springs are not likely. I have seen springs break at the ends and near the spring perch, but not usually in the middle of the span. I said "usually".

 

To lower the ride height in my '57 Rover, I removed leaves and played around with the height, but could never get it where I wanted it, so I ended up putting one leaf in upside down. Yes, it was a bear to clamp together, but it works like a charm.

 
I am planning to flip the main on my red truck. 
I remember back in the day a buddy pulled all but the main leaf on his 720. Lowered it quite a bit, the ride was a little rough lol. 

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

What V8 is that Steve? Only ones I have ever seen are the 327 in a mid '60s car. Have drag raced a 343? Javelin (no problem) and tried to race a 390 Rambler Scrambler.

Either a 304 or a 360. My Cherokee has a 360. RUns great, gets 14 mpg, not too powerful though. But then, it has 3.54 diffs.

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19 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

What V8 is that Steve? Only ones I have ever seen are the 327 in a mid '60s car. Have drag raced a 343? Javelin (no problem) and tried to race a 390 Rambler Scrambler.

 

 

4 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Like the Toyota 22R... not strong enough to hurt itself, runs forever.

 

They are built like a brick shithouse, they will deflect your average engine stand in full dress lol. 


The engine in it is an AMC 360 out of a Jeep Cherokee Chief. 
 

The AMC V8 was available from 304 up to 401 from the factory. 
Big, heavy, shit mileage V8, but will pull all day long. 

The CJ came with a 304 originally, sucked a valve on that one though. 
Had to go hunting for these pics, they were pre-photobucket, circa 2003.   
Good times 😄

DSCN1099.thumb.JPG.693bdcbc322739c32a9c1d9179fc1c83.JPG

 

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DSCN1101.thumb.JPG.1ac44b2427fe1625953d23b9fba686a4.JPG

 


 

7 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Either a 304 or a 360. My Cherokee has a 360. RUns great, gets 14 mpg, not too powerful though. But then, it has 3.54 diffs.

 

I don't think I ever got above single digit mileage, but it is hard to keep my foot out of it in this go-cart/rollercoaster thing. 😄

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They are built very tough. I took a good look around my 360 when I had it apart. Good metals, lots of webbing, thick flanges, and nice casting.

 

I think it's a derivative of when Kaiser bought the Buick V6 from GM. The front cover and oil pump/distributor drive are nearly identical.

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On 11/22/2023 at 4:41 PM, ]2eDeYe said:

The engine in it is an AMC 360 out of a Jeep Cherokee Chief. 

I did the same with my CJ, the 304 was really tired when I aquired it and found a Cherokee Chief nearby that happily donated its 360.

On 11/23/2023 at 10:33 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Good metals, lots of webbing, thick flanges, and nice casting.

Indeed the AMC block is strong, mains were heavy enough that AMC never needed 4 bolts for racing. The 360 is a clone of the 304 but a taller deck height & resulting taller stroke. And yup, heavy.

On 11/22/2023 at 6:55 AM, datsunfreak said:

AMC was always so damn broke they had to "borrow" a lot from everyone lol

True indeed, GM transmissions, and other parts sourced from the big 3. They seem to have chosen wisely... just bland or weird style. Jeep kept AMC alive - a lesson Chrysler was quick to learn & adopt

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21 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

They are. Very "real". No blink182 music in the background.

 

Side topic - why does social media promote heavy metal?

 

 

Good to hear. 
As far as real, the budget is blown and I expected to be done a while ago lol. 

The music promotion, I have no idea. The algorithm doesn't make any sense to me.  

I do like me some heavy metal, but I feel like the acoustic stuff is relatable to more people.
That and it is easier to record, don't have to come up with drum tracks and bass lines. 🙂

 

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