My Jeep is on crack...

[datsunfreak]

1 hour ago, ]2eDeYe said:

Fully weld, stitch some or leave it? It is definitely more welded than factory lol

 

Seam sealer, douche with paint or let nature sort out this finish here? It is all underneath the tub. 
 

 

 

 

I like patina, but not on the bottom. It's what holds the car together.  😄

[datsunfreak]

1 hour ago, ]2eDeYe said:

my engine hoist for that heavy pig and cracked the glass on the gauge. Do you know if I can just buy a cheap one and replace my glass and bezel with the new parts?

 

99% sure you can just buy the glass? Or make a new one out of polycarbonate? 

 

Or just measure and shop around online? I know they make them for the old Broncos (had to replace one). 

Edited October 5, 2023 by datsunfreak

[]2eDeYe]

1 hour ago, datsunfreak said:

 

99% sure you can just buy the glass? Or make a new one out of polycarbonate? 

 

Or just measure and shop around online? I know they make them for the old Broncos (had to replace one). 

 

I mangled the trim piece too, cause I am good like that. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

21 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said:

When I installed the t18, I had to use my engine hoist for that heavy pig and cracked the glass on the gauge. Do you know if I can just buy a cheap one and replace my glass and bezel with the new parts? I would like to keep mine.

 

 

Fully weld, stitch some or leave it? It is definitely more welded than factory lol

 

Seam sealer, douche with paint or let nature sort out this finish here? It is all underneath the tub. 

The stock 'plates' are now welded back together and reinforced with 1x1 tube

 

 

Couple things here.

 

The only replacement speedos available are from Omix and Crown, and they are absolute garbage. I've bought a few of them and they always, I mean always, fail. Here's their tagline - "Getting your Jeep's dash gauges looking and working like new has never been so easy! These OMIX-ADA speedometer gauges fit a variety of Jeep models and include all the features you want. They're built to meet or exceed the factory specs. Why settle for anything less? Equip your Jeep with the best—OMIX-ADA! "

 

This is such bullshit that I've called them on it. Then they offer to send me replacements of whatever I'm complaining about. I've told them, "no thanks, I don't even want a refund."

 

So basically, I've stopped buying anything from them.

 

 

Another part they sell, that I see you are in need of, is body mount bushings. The ones OMIX sells for that era CJ5 are not even close to being correct, or even direct fit. They are plain old rubber washers with no sleeves or registering steps rings in them. I did a bit of research, and I think you can get a poly set for a YJ, and they can be made to fit.

 

The welding - why not replace that part? Classic Ent sells those braces. I understand that you're not restoring the Jeep, so maybe do what you can to finish welding it up, sand it smooth and coat it with some primer then undercoating. SEM makes a good rubberized coating, but I can no longer get it here in CA. Maybe you can get it up there. It's pretty durable, and I had great success with it on my Cherokee.

[]2eDeYe]

11 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Omix and Crown
So basically, I've stopped buying anything from them.

 

 

Another part they sell, that I see you are in need of, is body mount bushings.  I did a bit of research, and I think you can get a poly set for a YJ, and they can be made to fit.

 

The welding - why not replace that part? Classic Ent sells those braces. I understand that you're not restoring the Jeep, so maybe do what you can to finish welding it up, sand it smooth and coat it with some primer then undercoating. SEM makes a good rubberized coating, but I can no longer get it here in CA. Maybe you can get it up there. It's pretty durable, and I had great success with it on my Cherokee.

 

On 9/24/2023 at 9:12 AM, ]2eDeYe said:

 

Of course you post this after I cobbled the drivers side back together lol.
Hopefully he is still offering them next time I have to go through this thing. 

 

 

My videos are a bit behind. Has made editing video a little easier. 

 

Yay, crappy vendors... my windshield frame must be from them.  😞
Are their ebrake cables ok? They seem to be the only one that have those?

You are right about needing body mounts. The ones it had were random rubber pieces and none matched, at least the ones that were there lol.
I have a set of poly bushings I bought for it a few years before I parked it, I have them all ready to install now, just need to finish up a few things before it get's bolted back together. 

 

I didn't know about the panels until I was already done on this side. With the way I drive the square tube reinforcement would be needed either way.
There is also the where do I stop factor, a lot more should be replaced that I am just repairing. If I start down that path though then I am into a restoration and not just getting it back on the road/trail. This was supposed to be just a quick get it drivable lol. 
 

I do have some chassis paint that I was thinking about using once I figured out how far I want to go. I will check into the undercoating. 

Thanks for the input and for building/posting that CJ5, as it was probably the spark that got me here. That whole, hey I have one of those 🙂

 

 

This weeks video finishes up the frame repair and start on those body mounts. 
 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I get it. Stay away from a restoration. Can of worms...

 

Their brake cables are ok. Most hard mechanical parts from them are usable. It's the restoration type stuff that they suck at. Oh, and anything made out of rubber. Will deteriorate in weeks. Literally.

[]2eDeYe]

Still plugging away. 🙂
This is the video to match that last pic I posted.
 

 

[]2eDeYe]

I have been making a pile of everything I take/cut off this thing. The strap used to hold the body together and to the frame where the clutch linkage and frame flexing forces tore the tube apart.

 

 

Connected the separated supports 

 

 

 

 

Had to buy a new pop up 

 

 

Both sides almost done, feeling pretty good about getting all the body mounts in. The front of the tub has never been so stout. 
These 2 pics also show how much I enjoyed wheeling this thing. Notice the frame side body mounts, they are just a little bent 🙂

 

 

 

Transmission crossmember is up next.

 

sneak peek

 

 

[EDM620]

On 10/5/2023 at 2:04 PM, ]2eDeYe said:

Fully weld, stitch some or leave it? It is definitely more welded than factory lol

IMHO I'd fully weld. Nature willl get in-between every spot & accelerate rusting out the repair.

[]2eDeYe]

3 hours ago, EDM620 said:

IMHO I'd fully weld. Nature willl get in-between every spot & accelerate rusting out the repair.

I am not sure I could close everything off if I tried. I was planning to use seam sealer and hoping for the best,

 

Somewhere down the road I am sure I am going to be redoing all this anyway, I will never sell it.

[]2eDeYe]

On 10/6/2023 at 10:17 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

SEM makes a good rubberized coating, but I can no longer get it here in CA. Maybe you can get it up there. It's pretty durable, and I had great success with it on my Cherokee.

 

Apparently they just make the CA version now. 
I used Zero Rust, I have seen the510keeper using it. It has all the VOCs.

Have you used that stuff before? Should I still get the rubberized undercoat and put a layer over the Zero Rust? 

 

 

I got a new crossmember built. Had some 1/4 stainless left over from a thing. Pretty beefy and I tried to make it as smooth as possible across the bottom. 
 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I also would try to weld as much as you can. If you know ahead of time that you will not be able to keep all junk and moisture out, plan for that and leave a slit open at the bottom, or couple slits open at the corners.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

And then squirt as much primer/paint into the open spots as possible. I prime/paint before the part gets welded in, and then wire brush off the areas to be welded.

[]2eDeYe]

4 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I also would try to weld as much as you can. If you know ahead of time that you will not be able to keep all junk and moisture out, plan for that and leave a slit open at the bottom, or couple slits open at the corners.

I need a time machine to go fwd for responses and then back to do the work lol. 

I welded every corner at least an inch. Then I made a mess with the seam sealer and coated it all in the Zero Rust. 

When I finally have a shop with a lift I am going to redo the floors. All the supports and the rear floor need replaced.
Will be spending some $$ at that point on that link you posted. 

[]2eDeYe]

On 10/6/2023 at 10:17 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

" Equip your Jeep with the best—OMIX-ADA! "

 

This is such bullshit that I've called them on it. Then they offer to send me replacements of whatever I'm complaining about. I've told them, "no thanks, I don't even want a refund."

 

So basically, I've stopped buying anything from them.

 

 

 

This is great info and everyone should be aware. 
Rear brake hose was wrong... now I am waiting for one from rockauto. 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

20 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said:

 

 

This is great info and everyone should be aware. 
Rear brake hose was wrong... now I am waiting for one from rockauto. 

 

I think it boils down to two factors.

1 - Most Jeep owners never really cared about the fit or quality of the replacement parts.

2 - Crown and Omix are shooting for the cheapest cost segment of the parts market. They don't even know that guys are interested in restoration quality parts, or they just don't care.

[EDM620]

Saw a wonderful collection of Land Cruisers plus a couple of Series 2(?) LandRovers in a yard for sale yesterday. If anyone is interested I can look back to where I saw them yesterday

[]2eDeYe]

5 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I think it boils down to two factors.

1 - Most Jeep owners never really cared about the fit or quality of the replacement parts.

2 - Crown and Omix are shooting for the cheapest cost segment of the parts market. They don't even know that guys are interested in restoration quality parts, or they just don't care.

 

 

I think they just don't care, no response from support a week later. 
Good thing I am used to ordering things that may or may not work in my application. It can just go in to inventory for something else lol. 

 

 

Just now, EDM620 said:

Saw a wonderful collection of Land Cruisers plus a couple of Series 2(?) LandRovers in a yard for sale yesterday. If anyone is interested I can look back to where I saw them yesterday

 

 

I need more parking. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

16 hours ago, EDM620 said:

Saw a wonderful collection of Land Cruisers plus a couple of Series 2(?) LandRovers in a yard for sale yesterday. If anyone is interested I can look back to where I saw them yesterday

I have to much inventory as it is. Though I'd love to add to it, my money is tied up in the few I have already.

 

Find a Series I Rover though... I'd be all over that.

 

Or a 12HT for my HJ60.

 

Or an early '70s Ford High Boy

 

Or a '60s ramp bed race car hauler.

 

Or an XK120 basket case project.

 

Or a....

[EDM620]

On 10/26/2023 at 8:25 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Find a Series I Rover though... I'd be all over that.

I'll keep that in mind, there is a possibility...

[]2eDeYe]

Body is bolted on in all positions. Pretty sure half were missing the entire time I have owned it, which probably did not help the body stay together. 
This always felt more like a boat or plane to operate, now I know why lol. 
 

 

[Soundline]

When are we going Jeeping Red?

[EDM620]

If you plan on doing water crossings, one tip that helps the electrics - wrap each connection with plastic wrap then smother with silicone. The plastic wrap allows for future servicing as it keeps the silicone out of the connection - simply slice the blob and unwrap to access your connection.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Does it run yet?

 

I'd be interested in hearing how that paint holds up over time.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

2 hours ago, EDM620 said:

If you plan on doing water crossings, one tip that helps the electrics - wrap each connection with plastic wrap then smother with silicone. The plastic wrap allows for future servicing as it keeps the silicone out of the connection - simply slice the blob and unwrap to access your connection.

I was on the Rubicon a few years ago, crossing the Rubicon river just down stream from the Rubicon Springs and the water was so deep that it was flowing over my feet. Right in the middle of the hole, the Rover started cutting out. So what did I do? I leaned into the throttle. Nothing worse than getting stalled right in the middle of a flowing river.

 

Got to camp and found that the tip of the coil was cracked off, and water was getting into the coil wire. Nobody in camp had a spare coil, so I got to fixin.

 

Solution? Jam a bunch of black RTV into the coil wire boot, stuff it into place, then safety wire the boot onto the coil. It's been like that ever since...