Oldtimers rallycar - Datsun 1500 Pickup (620) 1979

[Aibast]

final result are in, we where 6th from 44 entries. Not bad I think. 

 

To bad its to commersial in there. In here it is more or less just for fun. But you can organize an event yourself just for Ratsun guys. We in here alway follow the rules and don't go over the speed limit. This keeps things simple. As officialy its not a racing event - it is like 40 cars happen to be driving the same road with 1 minut gap. No need to register the events, no need for racing licences and modified cars. All special stages are held in privat owned places or on closed privat roads.

 

The average speed is kepts slow just for this reason, not to go crazy fast. And the roads are bad also, to keep the speed down. But these sideroads still have max 90km/h speed limit. Most people drive these at 40 - 50km/h - we just go  little bit faster ;)

 

This time even extra points where given to people who used side indicators on turns. The puzzle and time gap is there to make things more difficult than just driving form A to B.

http://www.apmsc.in/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=161:what-is

 

 

There is also a peoples rally type event in here, the same thing you just wrote about. They also have set of rules that make things expencive. Like need to follow FIA lowest class rules for cars - rollcage,seatbelts, steeringwheel. Homoligated helmet, suit and so on.

 

But in here when you have a rollcage in the car - it  classifieds your car as a racecar and you can't use it as a daily driver. You need to have a Estonian Autosport Union license and so on.

[wayno]

Good Job, 6th out of 44 isn't bad at all.  :thumbup:

[MikeRL411]

this time the cost was 25€ for the event fee, 4€ for camping, 85€ in fuel.

 

 

Wayno, if you think one Euro as about US$1.10 you will get the picture!

[Aibast]

Thats about right, the precise at the moment is 1€ = 1,3385$. My monthly income is around 800.- €. So it was a bit expensive for me. New technical inspection of the truck will cost me 30.- € and 6 month insurance another 60.- €.  1 gallon of 95 octane unleaded fuel costs in here 5.85 € thats 7.79$

 

First pic I found from the roadside: you can see the roadsurface - these produce a lot of vibration. If you car isn't in good working order, somethings can and will vibrate loose. The suspention travel on 620 is nice and long, had no problems with that but the blue Volvo bottomed out its suspention a lot of times.

[Aibast]

Hi you all. I have not done much to the car for last weeks. Today is MOT time again, this time for a year :). Still no new fuel tank.

 

Next event 10-11. august. It's a nightime rally. We start 00:00 and finist 11:00. There will be one special stage after the regularity part in the daytime. It will be held  in souther estonia this time. It's a place with lots of rolling hils.

 

I think of adding a camera mount in the car. That would be fun to watch later. Maby rent a GoPro

 

The special stage will be on this rally cross track - can't wait

[Aibast]

well didn't pass the inspection this time - the rear brakes where to different from each other. Going to fix that, then I'm good to drive this thing until next july. As for night rally, the theme sis "sex,drugs and rock 'n' roll". Any Hippy ideas anyone?

[wayno]

You need a VW bus.  :lol:

 

 

 

 

[Aibast]

fixed the brakes - the driver side adjuster had just vibrated out of adjustment. The stopper is just to weak to hold it in the right place. So my brakes work great now. Inspection revisit tomorow

[Aibast]

estonians 19th century style.

[Aibast]

You can figure it out by lifting one rear wheel off the ground, marking the tire with an arrow pointed straight down at the ground, then mark the driveline on the side where you can see it while turning the wheel.

Turn the wheel off the ground 2 complete turns and count how many times the driveline turns, if it turns just a little over 4 turns, you have 411s, if it turns just under 4 times you have 389s, if it turns 4 and 1/3rd times you have 437s, if it turns 3 1/2 times you would have 350s, there are a lot of different ratios, you just have to count how many times the driveline turns when you turn the one wheel two complete turns.

There is no markings on the rearend telling you what gears you have.

You cannot lift both wheels off the ground, to do what I just said above, the wheel on the other side cannot move.

 

Well did this and quess what - it did around 4 1/3 a turns. So the slowest ratio - no wonder it screams @ 90 km/h.

[wayno]

Well did this and quess what - it did around 4 1/3 a turns. So the slowest ratio - no wonder it screams @ 90 km/h.

 

But it starts out from a stand still easily, it all depends on how you are using your truck, if you are hauling loads(basically using it as a truck), then the 437 gears are a good ratio, if you are using the truck like a car, then maybe better hiway gearing would be appropriate, like 411s, or 389s, the later will drop your rpms down to 3000rpms at almost 70mph with stock tire sizes.

[Aibast]

With a load it starts nice and I love it. 5th gear would still be great :)

[Aibast]

Got the car trough the inspection - everything works and I can drive it for a whole  year.

[FlyinPat]

Congratulations on passing!  Its nice to know that you don't have to worry about that for awhile.

[Aibast]

now I can drive the truck to work daily for a while :)

I'f my friend can't come with my in this rally I'll be driving with my wife.

[wayno]

I am curious, what do they check in an inspection, how could they tell one of your rear brakes wasn't working properly, do you have to drive it on rollers and hit the brakes?

[Aibast]

the inspection goes like this:

You drive your car to there gate. Then the one inspecting your vehicle drives it in, Tests out the following: low beams, high beams, indicators, rear lights, brake lights, interior warning lights. They see that you have minumum of 1kg fire extinguisher (it needs to be tested once a year), stoping blocks, placeable hazzard sign and first aid kit.

 

Next brake test - they drive it on a roller and check the wheel alligment and brakes, then the rears where they test the wheel alligment, handbrake and brakes. They can't differ more than 15% from side to side. My brakes where that good it hoped the car of the rollers :) Also they test you don't have to much drag from brakes on the wheels.

 

Then they test the shock absorbers on the next test for resonants on different freguencys.

 

After that comes the exhaust/emissions test @ idel and higher revs.

 

Then its the visual inspection that everything under the hood is secured. Batter is secured to the car and so on. They sea that tyres meet the vehicles spects.

 

Then to the pushings test to see that everything is nice and tight and nothing has to much play in it. They twist and turn the wheels alot. Also they check the cars underside in the same test for corrosion and so on.

 

And thats it.

 

But we do have in here two documents that covern these test:

Its Geneva Conventsion and Viena Conventsion.

 

These state what can be tested on cars older than 30 years in europe:

It comes to: cars need to be seen (lights and horn must work) , they cant leak oil and coolant (emmissions test is irrelevant), need to have working brakes (the car needs to stop from 50 km/h in 14m or less). The vehicles engine must be factory used on or something else that isn't 20% larger in displacement, 20% more powerful or 15% heavier. Tyres and wheels must be factory spec. That is it.

 

Vehicles less than 10 years old go to inspection once in 3 years. First is done by the factory, vehicles 10-15 years old go to inspection once in 2 years. Vehicles older that 15 years need to be inspected each year.

 

this is a simplified short version of it:

[Aibast]

went to Estonian Maritime Museum this weekend, tought of sharing some pics.

 

Click on the link for more

http://album.ee/album/587773/50331445

[Aibast]

damn, my trucks horn just stopped working. The relay works, but the horn doesn't. Anyone has an idea why? I always tought they where simple - switch ->relay -> horn type of thing. Do they have any other component on the cirquit.

[its_karl]

tap on it, while applying power, might have mud or dirt inside

[Aibast]

it repaired its self this time, I tought of dirt in it might stop it from working, was hoing to try that, but then it worked again.

[its_karl]

a weak ground or connection will cause it

[Aibast]

lost my marking lights today. Tought that water had got to the system and burned the fuse. Well It was a simple fix again, the fused had vibrated loose. As the my new fusebox is upside down under the dash. Even with boaring rain everything works fine :)

[Aibast]

did something again. Added rear mudflaps :)

[Aibast]

 

 

this is where I but these things. I allready had some sheetmetal plates with holes made by previous owner. I think he also had some mudflaps in there. I made these things from old concrete conveyor belt. Nice soft rubber with fabric reinforcement.

 

When installing the flaps I fount that my bed was loose, retightened the bolts. No more clunking when going over hard bumps.