Oldtimers rallycar - Datsun 1500 Pickup (620) 1979

[Aibast]

nice photos

 

Lots of wild pigs in Estonia????????

I think enough. We have conservative hunting in here, been nature loving and respecting people for hundreds or even thousands of years.

More people in here belive trees to have spirits, than belive in God.

Link for you to look for more info on Estonia.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Estonia

 

Here asre some photos by me:

wheat field behind my summerhouse. As you can see, Oak trees are some what sacred to us. There are many of them in this field.

http://static2.nagi.ee/i/p/345/60/086402210bdc16_l.jpg/1

 

This is one of the ironage sacred sites. There are lot of them in estonia.

http://static2.nagi.ee/i/p/395/34/09883595b57419_l.jpg/1

 

Porkuni lake, this place has wandering islands - beat island that float around, these even have bushes and trees on them.

http://static2.nagi.ee/i/p/395/34/09883611622c3b_l.jpg/1

 

central estonia is more or less like this

http://static2.nagi.ee/i/p/395/34/09883613263719_l.jpg/1

 

west coast shore line

http://static2.nagi.ee/i/p/395/34/09883619208e53_l.jpg/1

 

estonian summer - we call it 3 months of bad skiing weather.

http://static2.nagi.ee/i/p/395/34/09883627d08710_l.jpg/1

 

our capitols downtown

http://static2.nagi.ee/i/p/395/34/09883643a47ed8_l.jpg/1

 

capitol Tallinn, in the middle is Toompea castle

http://static2.nagi.ee/i/p/358/77/08969427541f25_l.jpg/1

 

Jägala river

http://static3.nagi.ee/i/p/676/63/16915951b3ecc2_l.jpg/1

 

Saaremaa island

http://static2.album.ee/files/1026/83/large_25670761_yx9D.jpg

 

spring @ my summerhouse

http://static3.album.ee/files/1070/52/large_26763239_m95W.jpg

 

Got to get back to work - need to draw up a 10m windturbine concrete foundation and but it in production.

Link to the company I work in.

http://www.kiilibetoon.ee

[Aibast]

some new and better pictures:

 

Here you can see the exhaust bit better. Connected up the fuel level sender and fuelline. The top one is just pluged up.

 

This is how she sits now. Bleed the front brakes, but in new anti freez - 36C this time around. We had -28 last year in the winter. Fixed a throttle cable, but on new connectors for engine tep. and oil pressure senders. All the front lights work again. There are a lot of corroded connectors. Hope to get it running next week. 

 

The muffler. Just need a clamp and to its place it goes.

 

My friend starter on fixing some rust holes.

 

 

The wheels are in my Volvo now, going to but on the new tires tomorow.

[Aibast]

got new tyres on the original rims and one spare on a mazda b1800 rim. Got new bensin resistant rubber hoses for fueltank filling neck and vent line. 45mm exhaust clamp. Still lots to do, but its coming along. Now I can but these things on and start up the car. Need to turn it around in the garaze and but on the truckbed. Underhood wireing still needs lots of cleaning for corosion. Front blinkers and bumper need some work.

 

How about daily driving this car? Is the rear suspention to stiff when without a load? We have a Citröen Jumper 2 ton truck as worktruck and that thing jumps around on pumpy road a lot, a bit to stiff in the rear when empty.

[bloodontheapex]

Love the truck!  You live in a very beautfil country.  The most free in the world, I hear.  Love the old warsaw pact cars, wish we'd got the old Lada.  Did y'all get Tatras up there?

[Aibast]

not a lot of tatras, just ladas, volgas, moskviches. Did see some škodas around.

[Aibast]

today finaly got everything from the cab to rear finished. Hope to start the car tomorow. Will make a vid for you to see. No idea how the exhaust sounds, hope it doesn't soundlike a honda. There is no resonator in the exhaust, it will sound a bit raspy I think.

Here again some pics  - can't help my self.

Work in this part of the car is now all done. Everithing is clamped up, seald, tied to, painted and so on. The fillerneck is longer for the truckbed. It wil be cut to proper length. Its 48mm bensine resistant rubber hose. And But on new tyres. Didn't paint the rims, it something to do in the summer. I'm  pressed for time.

 

You can see the battery " - " cable hanging, reconnected all the connections to be sure to give good ground to the engine, the other cable will be giving ground to the cars frame.

 

better shot of the front wheel. You can get the idea how high this car rides. The tyres are as mentioned before 185/80/R14C. Nice and soft for gravel roads. I'm not lovering the car as it must drive  on different conditions.

[Aibast]

started the car. It ran, if you can call it that. The float held the intake needle valve closed, so not enoug fuel, got it to hold level and then it suddenly floded the carb.

Here is a vid of how it ran after I got it out of garage. Without any weight in the rear, it didn't have any traction.

 

Now Its back inside , the truck bed is on and work can continue.

 

Now I need some J15 engine Nikki carb knowhow

[Aibast]

need some help on the brakes department.

They take but weak. the pedal doesn't go to the bottom, so it does get some braking preassure. Have blead everything the brakes and master silinder. And the car stops. Going to turn on the rear drums a bit more, as the handbrake is also taking but not hard enough. So I think the pads only connect on the silinder side and the bottom adjuster doesn't connect to the drum. Hope it gets the pressin distance shorter. The problem is the booster doesn't work. Engine on or with out -no difference @ all. Is the one way valve on the vacume line prone to stick? Haven't tried that yet. 

 

Any aditional tips are welcome.

[Aibast]

today was a good day. 

Got the float in the carb to perfect level and keeping it. Adjusted the idle and fuelmix, so it runs smooth. Tested out the oneway valve on the brake booster vacume line. Held proper and even the booster held vacume. Discovered that the handbrake doesn't hook up properly. So the falt is now known, rear brakes need adjustment. Thats on the list of things to do. Can't go on a testdrive yet, but soon. The exhaust leaked a little and resealed it. Connected the fueltank ventilation so that system is now sealed.  Did the front sidemarkers and front lights. Installed spotlights and worklights for the truck bed. Did all the cabeling, so its now connected up. The worklight is on constant + trough the main fuse. Spotlights are totaly separate unit so they work all the time. Even if the cars lights electric system goed bad. The cars grounding will go trough safetyswitch. Even the sportlights. So I can kill the power to the car with one move. The switch is under the dash, where the ashtray was - as me and all my friends are non smokers, then we don't need the ashcollector anyway. Made new polts for truck bed and polted it down. But on front markers and indicators. Now the car has all the lights neaded for technical inspection and they all work. Even the hazards and side indicators. Not bad for a car that just had sat 6 years in all kinds of weather. So here are the pics from today:

 

Morning , friend started on the carb

 

when we finished work

 

truckbed worklight - The cabeling has a waterproof connection just behind the cab. It shows a little in the lower edge of the photo.

 

safety ,spotlights and worklight switch. Light switches are pulltype - so keeping with the cars style and feeling.

[Aibast]

fixed the holes in the inner fender today. Hid the wires you can see on the safetyswitch pic. Readjusted rear brakes and handbrake, should be even now and brake pedal travel is now ok. 

Things to do:

Washed fluid reservuar and new window wipers.

Hood needs new stops to it sits nice and tight in its place

Main ground cable from battery to cut-of-switch and longer + cable for starter motor.

[Aibast]

I have a question - where does the washer motor connect???? I have 2 free connections in my wiring loom on the left fender. One has round connections, the other has one piece plastic connection. I could use your help.

 

My friend did some work on the car - added a proper negative cable from battery to the safetyswitch, from the other end of the switch one nice thick one goes to the engine, the other to the cab body, the third one is wiring loom connection. Now I shouldn't have any more ground issues and maby my temp gauge and fuel gauge start to work.

 

Still need to make a washer fluid tank and attache the motor somewhere. I have separate GM washer fluid motor.

[Aibast]

well, the car is technicaly finished, some minor things like new windscreen wipers, then off to inspection to get it leagal on the road.

 

Found the connection for the windscreen washer fluid pump, got it to work. Used regular fluid can as tank. The pump is stand alone type.

 

Pics after testdrive and proper cleanup  :)  

 

I'll try to make good pics, so you can see the additions I've made to the car and how they look.

[Aibast]

well tested the car - no brakes. The pedal doesn't go to the floor, about 3/4 of a way, but no stoping power. The handbrake is hard to pull, but doesn't give good stopping power.

I've checked the one way valve, it somewhat works. Blead the mastercilinder, then the rear and then the front disks. Also master hold vacume for days. As I run the car and after removing the line it still gives a nice woosh sound as the vacume line is removed. 

 

Read trough the service manual for 78 car and found something called NLSV? I havent bleed that.

[Aibast]

brake problems fixed for now. The car does stop. Not like modern ABS car, but it still gets rears locked up. The master cilinder had a bit of air in the front brake part. The car is now finished. 

First time driving - well it does drive like a truck. Not like a car, but a truck. Suspention is a bit to stiff and with out rear weight it just spins the wheels.The steering ist tight, but what else t expect from tall tyres and no powersteering. I think it will be fun to drive this on a rally. Still some minor problems, like temp and fuel gauge not working.

 

Here are some pics from today:

 

The car has a siren (cop friend you know  :thumbup: ) and here is the controls for that

 

safetyswitch and aux light switches. All thing are hooked up, Connections sealed and so on.

 

after a short test drive

 

now parked outside waiting for technical inspection.

[DanielC]

First, did you figure out the NLSV?  I believe this valve is designed to modulate, or control the bias between the rear and front btakes depending on the vehicle load, and severity of stopping.

 

On a 521 Datsun truck, you could get rear wheel cylinders in either 3/4 or 13/16 piston sizes.  If you can get different rear cylinder sizes for the 620 truck like yours, putting smaller rear wheel cylinders will reduce the braking on the rear wheels, but may increase the pedal pressure slightly.   Driving on slippery roads may be better after the change, but on the other hand, not having the front wheels do a lot of the braking, means that the traction on the front wheels is available to turn the truck.

[Aibast]

First, did you figure out the NLSV?  

No NLSV on my truck. I have front disc brakes and no NLSV. Go figure.

 

Also rear braking harder do act more or less like ABS in front giving me steering. We will see in the Inspection what the fronts are doing.

[Aibast]

did some things again. Made the bed cover sit nice and tight. Also fixed the temt and fuel gauge issues. Both had bad connections in the wireing. 

Also the doors didn't lock. So removed the locks and velded a small hole in  the small plate just behind the lock full and reshaped a new hole. Result the door locks now work perfectly.

Here are some new pics.

 

This is the bed cover before butting it on properly

 

Finished insides. There are now two 12V outlets in the glowbox.

[Aibast]

It was a good day for Datsun. Got it trough the MOT with perfect results. Brakes even work fine. No problems or wear on the axels. All the lights function and so on. Couldn't be happier. So next stop decal shop.

 

Parked next to my Volvo

You can see the rear bed cover - now its properly but in place and is held on proper. Front suspention is nice and soft, the rar hops over bumps on the road. Still strange to drive this thing. Even 90km/h in this car feels strange. The Volvo just glides in speeds 100km/h and above. Datsun is like a truck - well it is a truck - strange, but I love it. Was gigling like a school girl driving this thing. Strange but cool.

[graveltrapp]

Maybe some sort of brake bias valve could be of use since it will see a variety of surfaces. Seems common in the rally world.

http://www.rallynuts.com/motorsport-brake-proportioning-bias-valves/obp-screw-type-brake-bias-valve.html

 

 

[Aibast]

brake bias valve would be great. But got to drive this thing like it is. The event is more or less Time-Speed-Distance type event. This time it has two special stages. The whole trip is 353km on sideroads in Estonian winter.

This is us in 2011 - it was -22C that morning.

[Aibast]

ordered the decals today. Hope to get them next week. Cost - 90.- EUR. Not bad for 3,5m2 on decals.

[Aibast]

decal plan on the car

Still need to be made and put on. But this will give you some idea.

[Aibast]

Some help needed guys. The stock carb is a pain in the arsh to get he float lever proper, its realy high, the carbs mixture screw is turned in shut, but still runs way to rich. So I might thing some one has had there thing with the carb in the past and its ruined. The car runs but uses way to much fuel and I can't adjust it. But I do have a weber 28/32 tldm with a coolantchoak sitting on my shelf. It's been but on some J15's. Is it worth of butting it on instead of original one?

[DatsunHooked]

That webber sounds pretty small. I haven't heard of it before even. I would guess by the size (28/30) you would lose performance, but you would gain in economy, even if you need to open that carburetor a little more. I really like what you've done with your truck, no part undone. Its real clean. Good job man. Keep at it!

[Aibast]

The Weber is from Ford Fiesta 1,5L engine. In theory it should be ok. But who knows, got to try it. It was a Fiesta XR2 more ecomonic carb. Here is a pic I found on the net, what it looks like.

 

Things to do - convert it to manual choke, add a cable throttle linkage, adapt the airfilter housing (only when the car runs with this carb).