Oldtimers rallycar - Datsun 1500 Pickup (620) 1979

[darrel]

It's not every day you see something that says "made in "USSR"

 

Nice build so far.

[Aibast]

the truck now starts to look a dirty, needs a first proper wash - I have never washed this thing properly

[Aibast]

did a transport job again - only 600kg this time + 1 set of tyres on steelies. Drives like a champ - floating rear axel is one thing that suprises me all the time. I'm used to my tight and hard cornering 850R.  But I still get a silly face on when driving the truck. Just to much fun with a cool factor in it.

 

PS: still waiting on my carb adapter plate - lasercutting has to much work.

[denmarkboy]

Hello, got hooked on reading your thread last week. Just got all read up today. Just wanted to drop a line and say you rock dude.! Talk about going the extra Mile to own a rig. It makes me feel for ya, I live in Oregon and I see trucks everyday that have been forgotten. And you have to struggle to get parts,just doesn't seem fair.

 

Anyhow awesome job ! Completely dig that you rally the truck. And looking forward to seeing more.

[Aibast]

I like having a car that is different - don't like modern ecoeggs that all look the same. They are just bland, no character at all. So owning a 620 in here is a bit difficult but I love it. Looked over sea to Finland - there are only 2 for sale. But we do get some other cool cars. One I've owned - that was a Volvo 480 - never sold in the United States of North-America.

Most of the old soviet cars are the same. But these are tractors not cars - if you compare a Lada or Moskvich to Datsun of the same era - well the Datsuns are luxury cars  :rofl:

 

And it you but there BMW, Volvo, Mercedes,Alfas and such then they where heaven sent.

 

Now a days you can buy what ever you want in here. Ferraris, Lamborghinis and so on. Seen them all in here.

 

An thats a good story - one guy goes to work near my home with a Ferrari (CEO of a logistics company), even that guy looked @ my Datsun with amayzment giving  :thumbup:

[denmarkboy]

I completely agree with there!way to many rollin eggs these days. I too have had a pretty cool 850, mine wasnt an R. but it was pretty cool. i will throw ya a picture of it sometime. my father inlaw left me with some hillmans i hope to someday do something with,2 converts,2 wagons and a sedan.

 

well you got a fan here dude for sure, and if i can ever help you get a part...whatever let me know.

[Aibast]

With this car its been more or less like this. No parts - well, let's make them or modify something to work. Adjusted the steering box yesterday - had to much play in it and I like tight steering. Driven some non powersteering cars offroad before, so I know to keep my thumps away from the center of the steering wheel.

[Aibast]

Did the 620 come with different rear axel gearing? Would be nice to get some lover ratio rear diff that fits into my current housing.

 

No need to anwser - found a 4.111 gearing on L20B 4 and 5 speed. The question now is - will in fit into my diff housing?

PS. I have no idea what I have in my current one.

[Aibast]

for some clearification on how bad the original J15 with busted Nikki is running I get 18 mpg on this thing - for a nice even compression 1,5L engine thats just way to much. Would be happy it is 30 mpg. Hope the new carb will get me better milage. I had 83 mazda with 2.0 carb engine and that got me 42-46 mpg.

[Aibast]

number change time - I got the final number on the side and the hood made and on the car. Added some reflecting strips to the rear of the car and one on the talegate. So when I drive or park in the dark with the rear lach open then the bed edges and the latck edge is visible.

[Aibast]

talked with my friend today, going to start on flatbed desing for the truck. So soon I'll start with that. Still keeping the original bed as I can remove the bed and still drive this thing with working lights and so on. Even the sportlights have a connector for easy removal.

 

Size is going to be about 2500x1500mm. Benden rollbar on the cab side with steel protection mesh and cargo fixing hooks. 

 

Then when I need to rally, I'll but on the original decaled bed, other times use the flatbed.

[Aibast]

got my Datsun to 110km/h today - the engine worked on high rpm but more or less just whirled under the hood (4 speed you know). No misfire or hickups - just flew on the highway.  Still strange as my R runs at that speed @ 2800rpm (R's max speed is limited to 255, with out it would go as hign as 280). I have know idea how high rpm the Da-sun ran...

[Aibast]

Got my carb flange template finaly - hope to start on mating the new carb to the J15 today.

 

PS: You can see the Volvo 850R Alcantara interior - damn its expencive, would like to have that in my truck.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcantara_(material)

[Aibast]

the flange is now made - I'll take a pic of it today - and I made new gasgets also. Have just ordered new polts, waiting on these. I hope to get to teststart on friday.

[wayno]

Gook luck with your test start, hope it works out well for you, a J15 should do better than 18 unless your hauling a trailer around, or a lot of weight.

Did you figure out your rearend gears yet, 437s?

620s came with an H190 rearend, any H190 rearend pumpkin from a 1966 threw 1986 datsun/nissan truck will bolt right into your rearend housing.

I will subscribe to this thread so I will be informed if you reply.  :rolleyes:

[Aibast]

does the rearend have any markings that I can look and figure out the gearing?

At the moment the 2nd gear is like my Volvos 1st gear.

[wayno]

does the rearend have any markings that I can look and figure out the gearing?

At the moment the 2nd gear is like my Volvos 1st gear.

 

You can figure it out by lifting one rear wheel off the ground, marking the tire with an arrow pointed straight down at the ground, then mark the driveline on the side where you can see it while turning the wheel.

Turn the wheel off the ground 2 complete turns and count how many times the driveline turns, if it turns just a little over 4 turns, you have 411s, if it turns just under 4 times you have 389s, if it turns 4 and 1/3rd times you have 437s, if it turns 3 1/2 times you would have 350s, there are a lot of different ratios, you just have to count how many times the driveline turns when you turn the one wheel two complete turns.

There is no markings on the rearend telling you what gears you have.

You cannot lift both wheels off the ground, to do what I just said above, the wheel on the other side cannot move.

[Aibast]

I understand the open diff function, so I get the wheel turning. Just hoped nissan but some markings on the diff and it would be easyer to identify. Next time I work on the car I'll count the propshaft turns and figure out the gearing. Thanks.

[Aibast]

Here is my carb flange @ the moment.

As the thread in the manifold is in inches and I only get polts and such with inch-threads by order went for standard M8 size. Small holes are with M6 thread. Black blots are 12..9 strength heat and accid resistant ones. And I'll use copper nuts with locking ring to tighten things up.

Also the flange still needs the resess for the center locking bolts. I didn't know what I can get so I didn't cut that. Now I know so I make make 45 deg. resess.

The blue is gasget material you can cut, you buy it in sheets and cut what you need - its heat and oil resistant. Black gasget is original made-in-USSR carb gasget, I'll be replacing that .The blown textolite is from original Nikki carb. Also the VAZ carb that goes on the engine, has it built in. So I have 2 heat soak blocking elements in the carb. 

The central hole I handcarved with a dremmel to proper angel. Still need to figure out the aircleaner box. I have no ide if the original one with modifications will fit. If not, I'l think something up. Maby make a sheatmetal box that uses universal  "sports" conical airfilter element. I hope I can use the original filter and box. I want to keep the engines original look.

 

PS: Hope to get it done soon, as my friend needs me to portmatch his Ford 2,5L V6 engine manifolds and heads (2003 Ford Mondeo Ghia V6, with a headgasget failure, have ordered the gasgets and brakedown of the engine is almost done)

[Aibast]

Got the carb on the car. Rethreading the manifold worked. Here is a link to first time run vid.

 

Still need to make something up for the choke and throttle. But it runs, and with out adjustment better than the original Nikki :)

 

Here are some pics to. Hope my friend has time to work on the throttle  and choke. So soon going for a testdrive and see how it goes.

 

 

I also have a quesition about ignition timing. Do I need to disconnect the vacume line from the dissy or not when adjustin the dissy with a timing light???

[wayno]

Quote

I also have a quesition about ignition timing. Do I need to disconnect the vacume line from the dissy or not when adjustin the dissy with a timing light???

Quote

 

You need to disconnect the vacuum advance line when timing the engine.

[Aibast]

You need to disconnect the vacuum advance line when timing the engine.

 

Now I know where I went wrong. I'll look up my timing light and redo it. Thanks.

[Aibast]

still haven't had time to make the throttle and choke work on this carb. 

 

I have some toughts of a sumpguard - I have a good thick aluminum traffic sign in here that I can use for that. Also some mudflaps coming soon. Don't want to throw up gravel and mud that much. 

 

The seat frames wires are broken again. ( I'm 190cm tall and weigh 105kg). But got a proper couch springs that I'll be using for new seat support. I made the seat so that it is easy to remove the vinul.

 

At the moment hard @ work in my summerhouse. Just dug out some rock that I hit when mowing the grass and but a piece of turf in the remaining hole.

 

[wayno]

It will be that much sweeter when you do get it done.  :rolleyes:

[Aibast]

here are some pics with Datsun @ my summerhouse

 

With a load on - suspention still had some travel room

 

this is the load - aprox 800kg