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"HEAD" question???


Dirttrack510

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You could always do like Mike said and strip all the goodies out of the 210 head, then, use it for practice and start porting it out. Start with the exhaust side so you can get a feel for how the tools dig. Then when your comfy with it, go after the intakes. Strip the valves and start teaching yourself how to blend your valve seat area.

 

Another guy on here is building a LZ24 that is getting valves that are just under 1.80" It is about as much valve as you can physically make fit. He is having the cambers reworked to make room for them. I'll make him post some pics on here when it gets back from the machine shop.

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Yeah, I know I'm limited, I know the Z valves will fit for sure and I only run (leaded) 110 octane racing fuel in the race car. That stuff is costly by the way... about $7.00 or so a gallon :angry:

 

 

110??? What compression you running??? 12 to 1

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It's not the compression that I worry about, I run my engine at around 38 degrees advanced and it's locked in at that advance. My distributor advance is welded up. Most race car guys do the same thing. I run it like that to get the most out of a tiny motor.

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There should be between a 1/16th to 1/8 gap at the bottom of the numbers for an uncut head, but it varies. None of the "marks" signifying the maximum milling are visible, however those didn't show up until the mid 70s, so it might not have had them to begin with. I've seen heads milled more than that, though.

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You can also measure the head thickness from valve cover to head gasket surfaces. Stock would be 4.248"

I just measured mine and I got 4.251, but I have a cheap ass gauge. :P I'm assuming it's not shaved or my head was really tall when it was new... :unsure: It does however measure within a few thousanths of the thickness/height of my 210 head.

 

I forgot my D.I. water at work :( , so I'll have to CC the chambers tomorrow.

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