ggzilla Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Twin 46s will flow about the same, but you don't get the ITB effect... Quote Link to comment
docbainey Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Ok, so i talked to Rebello about my carbs & they say i need dual 45mm webers, so i'll be selling off my SU stuff to help pay for the Weber set-up. UGH!!! You had mentioned about running SUs to be in a stock class? Screw the webers then, turbo it! I'm in northeast Ohio, and never heard of dirt oval racing for import cars, Where do you race and what do their rules say? Shit, you might as well look for a GT3 motor. Malcom Garret was selling some 2L+ motors, as well as Wolf Creek racing, if you're going to run an L16 all out race motor. Buy a proven power plant and just freshen it up. Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 I can't have a turbo at all, but i believe i can claim the webers as stock, since they're listed as o.e.r. Parts Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Webers were never stock on an L20B. They had twin Mikunis on the U20. Did you mean OEM? OER is the new version of the Weber. Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 The parts books show the webers as o.e.r. isn't that short for original equiptment replacement? thats why i figured i might pull it off. Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Is the mikuni set up 2 or 4 carbs? Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 I would run the 46mm su carbs, but i don't know how to do this needle filing crap. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 The Mikuni-Solex PHH series use the same bolt pattern as Weber DCOE. The are twin 2-bbl carbs. O.E.R. is a carburetor brand. I've never heard of it as OE Replacment, but could be I suppose. What parts catalog was it? Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 You might be able to get it through tech, if you can modify a U20 intake to fit, and do such a good job they don't notice. The intake will need to have a Nissan part # on it to convince them. A cannon or mikuni manifold will be aftermarket and not OE. Be prepared to get a VERY thick wallet out, if you can find one.Those roadster guys are really proud of their stuff. Quote Link to comment
docbainey Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 You might be able to get it through tech, if you can modify a U20 intake to fit, and do such a good job they don't notice. The intake will need to have a Nissan part # on it to convince them. A cannon or mikuni manifold will be aftermarket and not OE. Be prepared to get a VERY thick wallet out, if you can find one.Those roadster guys are really proud of their stuff. U20 came with 1 3/4" ports, good luck with that! A very thick wallet indeed!!! Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 I would run the 46mm su carbs, but i don't know how to do this needle filing crap. Rebello or Z Therapy can give you an appropriate needle to start with..based on your engine and application Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 U20 came with 1 3/4" ports, good luck with that! A very thick wallet indeed!!! Ha Ha, I never said it was logical, or practical. But with enough TIG welding, fab work and clean up, anythings possible. Maybe graft the Nissan serial #'s from a completely different part onto a cannon. Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 Nothing to exciting to report, I went to my shop and worked on the Race wagon this weekend a little. I put a new clutch on the old engine, till this new one is done I gotta run the old one. Anyway, I was looking at the head on the Race wagon (sorry on pics) and it has a "#23" stamping on the back side of the head, but I couldn't find any normal head marks a.k.a. 210, U67, A83 etc. does anyone know what head that would be? It's painted blue if that matters, although anyone could have painted it I guess. I've just never heard of anyone mentioning a #23 stamping mark before. :unsure: Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 We don't go by stamping marks. But rather "210", "U67", etc. are cast numbers and so do not uniquely identify the head. They are actually the applied model codes. That's why there is so much confusion about open/closed chamber versions. Both can have the same casting number. As far as I know, no one knows what the stamped or scratched numbers indicate. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 Check the front of the head. Like a little above and left of the cover. Most likely a 210 head... Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted February 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 Thats whats odd this #23 is a raised casting. I looked all over and this is the only casting numbers i saw. I expected to find a 210 casting, but didn't. :blink: Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 Usually there's a #__ scrawled on the back (cast in, since it was scrawled in the reverse mold). Means nothing special. Probably just the inspector number, or the tooling number, when the cast was made. In no particular order, the pictures are of 2 U67, 2 W58, and one W53 head. One of the W58s is known closed, and the U67 heads consist of an early U67 and a late U67. Note that the numbers bear no significance except the bottom number MIGHT be a date. To add to the fun, one head has nothing on the back (though everything else, not shown, is quite visible). For Dirttrack510, if you put up pictures we could see what you see. The casting numbers always are on the bottom under the spark plugs OR on the front, near the inspection cover. Only VERY early heads had the number up front. It's also possible someone ground off the numbers to confuse people. Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted February 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 Those numbers you just showed are what I'm looking at. I'll look on the front of the head like you mentioned. There's nothing on the sides. It is a 69 head, so maybe it is on the front.... under a bunch of oil and grease. :( Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 My adjustable cam gear came in the mail today :D . Has anyone on here ever used this sprocket before? It came with no instructions, so I don't know what numbers and letters are for which timing adjustments. If noone knows, I can probably call a Nissan dealer and get the info. The timing marks are A, B, C, D, 1, 2, 3, and 4. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 YOull have to degree the cam. Of coarse it dont have instruction cause your suppose to know alredy. the specs are in the Nismo catalog 0,+3,+6,+9,-3,-6,-9,-12 I dont think it was needed myself. stock is 0,+4,+8 Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 Thanks for the info Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 Saw a 210 head on an l20 ( I know, WTF ) in the jy. It seemed to me the sides of the head were shaoed different than the other heads . Looked kinda like a chick w/ a muffin top... Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted February 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 i found the 210 on my race car engine. it was on the front covered in grease. go figure. lol... I'm running an Weber 40 DFAV-1 carb on that engine with an edelbrock intake. So far, I haven't gotten "called" on running that set up. Will this carb be big enough to feed the race engine when it's done or does anyone know? 46MM intake, 38mm exhaust. .580 lift L4 Isky racing cam. full port and polish, 5 angle valve job. Forged pistons and probably about 13:1 compression. Oh yeah, 1675CC engine. .060 overbore L16 Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Ok, so this thread has been dead for a while, but it was time for an update. I got my U67 head back from the machine shop and it looks awesome, 4 angle valve job, full port and polish, 46MM intake valves (it was a tight fit), 38MM exhaust valves, ISKY L4 camshaft (.580 lift), ISKY racing springs and keeper, absolutely the best of everything that I could think to buy for it. It cost about $1300 total for parts and labor, but it should really be a screamer on the race track. That purple dye is machinist dye, for anyone who wondered. I would say that this is the ABSOLUTE LARGEST VALVES THAT WILL FIT IN AN L SERIES ENGINE. 280Z valves are 44mm intake and 38mm exhaust. Quote Link to comment
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